know a website i can find this device??
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tips on getting into mech mods??
- Thread starter valkarst57
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I can agree with this 100%. Damn good mod. Only reason i got the tc instead was the feel. I personally hate temp control, but that's just me
Wake and vape has them, with a ton of others that look interesting.
I've never made fun of toodlepuffers.I'm one of those tootle puffers that people like to make fun of -- that's ok; I can make 40ml of ejuice last over a week, and a battery last a whole day or even two.
Andria
My wife happens to be one. Her 20 mil bottle of juice, lasts her almost two weeks.
I however, burn through 30 mils a day.
AndriaD
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When I was using Kayfuns, at about 10w or maybe 10.5, building to about 1.6Ω, I was using about 6-8ml per day. Once I got an Achilles, with its so-tight draw, i dropped both my wattage and my nic level, from 10w to 9w, from 10mg to 9mg, just because the Achilles offers such terrific TH... but that tight draw makes it as miserly with juice a a carto -- the draw is very much like a carto's! Now I use less than 5ml per day, though I've continued to drop my nic level, mainly as Vapocalypse prep -- I want the 2L of nicotine in my freezer to last 20+ yrs.
Also, I wanted to see if lowering my nic level would help with my painfully cold hands and feet, this winter... and it really did! I didn't have to use the blowdryer on my hands or feet just to keep them from feeling like ice cubes! I'm also very, VERY happy to have finally weaned off WTA.... now, at 5mg or less, and zero WTA, I really doubt it's a physical addiction anymore... just the mental thing, which I may never be able to shake. But it definitely doesn't have the kind of hold on me that smoking did!Andria
Thats awesome!!! I'm always a sucker for new things. Lately, I've been building on a twisted messes rda. Until my current sub ohm mech build, ive been doing Claptons for the last six months. I go through juice like no tomorro, especially on my regulated mods.. But it keeps me from smoking, so its more than worth the insane amount of juice. HahaWhen I was using Kayfuns, at about 10w or maybe 10.5, building to about 1.6Ω, I was using about 6-8ml per day. Once I got an Achilles, with its so-tight draw, i dropped both my wattage and my nic level, from 10w to 9w, from 10mg to 9mg, just because the Achilles offers such terrific TH... but that tight draw makes it as miserly with juice a a carto -- the draw is very much like a carto's! Now I use less than 5ml per day, though I've continued to drop my nic level, mainly as Vapocalypse prep -- I want the 2L of nicotine in my freezer to last 20+ yrs.
Andria
AndriaD
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I completely agree! When people ask if I don't think that using 30% flavoring is dangerous, I just look at 'em funny and say "Compared to what? SMOKING?"
When I started and not-smoking was new, I vaped pretty much *continuously* -- which probably had more to do with the 6-8ml per day than the wattage or resistance I used. But, probably in the last 6 months or so, i'd say... I just don't vape like that anymore -- when I first started, I pretty much had to start vaping the MINUTE my feet hit the floor... now it's probably close to the 20-30 minutes I used to have to wait to smoke, because of my asthma... but it's just not a thing anymore. I take my first vape after I'm dressed and have my first cup of tea in front of me, because that's when it occurs to me. and after meals, sometimes it's 10-20 minutes before I vape... because it just doesn't occur to me... the woman who used to practically RUN out to the porch for the post-meal smoke!
All I can say is that vaping is truly a miracle. I figured I'd quit smoking about 5 minutes after I died of it.
Andria
Got one of those too,. still abusing the hell out of it regularly, my number one box.
If I am completely honest, I do own a few mechs (6), as they do have a certain charm to them.
But, I find regulated mods to be more suitable for my uses so own a lot more of them. I also like the safety features they have, although you should not ignore safety just because you are using a regulated mod.
The advice given on here so far has been what I would say, make sure you know Ohms law, don't overstress your batteries (I always leave headroom too), use an Ohm reader for vaping to check your coils resistance, ensure that your coils are well and truly safe, away from the edges or the top of your RDA when you put it on to avoid shorting ETC.
I generally don't vape very high power on my mechs, I usually build around 0.4 lowest(sometimes 0.3). I generally use Samsung 25R's-but a lot of other good batteries have been mentioned in this thread, at 0.4 I am only pulling around half of their 20A rating-and this would be with perfect conditions,with sag and other factors I am pulling even less than this.
Don't get me wrong, mechs are devices that are simple, and a lot of people love them for that. But I just prefer the constant watts a regulated mod provides, plus the ability to adjust on the fly with a simple button press your power.
Make sure you do a lot of research, and feel safe using a mech before you actually use one.
All the best in your search, and journey into mechs, Conan.
But, I find regulated mods to be more suitable for my uses so own a lot more of them. I also like the safety features they have, although you should not ignore safety just because you are using a regulated mod.
The advice given on here so far has been what I would say, make sure you know Ohms law, don't overstress your batteries (I always leave headroom too), use an Ohm reader for vaping to check your coils resistance, ensure that your coils are well and truly safe, away from the edges or the top of your RDA when you put it on to avoid shorting ETC.
I generally don't vape very high power on my mechs, I usually build around 0.4 lowest(sometimes 0.3). I generally use Samsung 25R's-but a lot of other good batteries have been mentioned in this thread, at 0.4 I am only pulling around half of their 20A rating-and this would be with perfect conditions,with sag and other factors I am pulling even less than this.
Don't get me wrong, mechs are devices that are simple, and a lot of people love them for that. But I just prefer the constant watts a regulated mod provides, plus the ability to adjust on the fly with a simple button press your power.
Make sure you do a lot of research, and feel safe using a mech before you actually use one.
All the best in your search, and journey into mechs, Conan.
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AndriaD
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This is a good point; I like to mount my coils high in my Achilles, for best TH, but the top cap of Achilles has this little doohicky that sticks downward... and many times, when I go to take the first hit from a new coil which I know perfectly well is actually over 2Ω, it tastes weird, and when I check the screen, the resistance is something weird, often less than 1 ohm -- which means I've raised the coil too high and the doohicky inside the top cap is running into it. Fortunately, I only use regulated mods, so it hasn't caused any issues that I can't resolve by taking the cap back off and easing the coil down a bit.
Andria
Tanks are more than fine......
I've been running 32x2/36 fused Clapton's @1.12 ohms in my Griffin on my Noisy Cricket. It's not only a safe build but wonderful Vape.
Like with all Mech's you need to know what you're doing.
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Too true but the vast majority of people I run into prefer grab and mindless go. Mechs are the thinking vapor's realm.Tanks are more than fine......
I've been running 32x2/36 fused Clapton's @1.12 ohms in my Griffin on my Noisy Cricket. It's not only a safe build but wonderful Vape.
Like with all Mech's you need to know what you're doing.
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Then they shouldn't be anywhere near a Mech period.
I don't like perpetuating hysteria, educate don't add to the fear and hysteria
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AndriaD
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Totally agree; people who consider 'thinking' to be cruel and unusual punishment have no business whatever using a mech.
Andria
Tips for getting into mechanical mod's, well... I think the don't build a coil beyond your battery capacity has been discussed. Good charger, good batterys, battery wraps, ohm meter, a want to tinker with stuff. I check my coils every time, you have to. If you build a coil say 6 wraps and check it, next time you build the same coil you have to check again, maybe not just for ohms but you have to check for shorts. My battery covers get damaged, see a nick of silver under a wrap, it's a new wrap going on it. Check and clean contact points. It's not hard or anything, just a lot more attention to the details on a regular basis. If you have the tinker DNA then you will love it.
I too have an interest in mechanical mods. I have a solid understanding of ohm's law and so I have been reading up on them. A few people experienced with mechs have mentioned pulse amperage and building above the "max continuous amperage" I have LG HG2s rated at 20A continuous. I understand the risk associated with this but how likely would it really be to build a .3 ohm coil and blow the sucker up using my batteries. F.y.I. I just ordered the noisy cricket.
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AndriaD
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A .3Ω coil should be perfectly safe, using 20A batteries; even at the battery's max 4.2v (which as someone else pointed out, would only apply when the batteries are fresh out of the charger, and not counting any "voltage sag"), it's only drawing 14A, so that provides fairly decent ":headroom".
At least, it seems that way to me. But as I've pointed out, for me it's just theory; I've never built or vaped at that kind of low resistance.
Andria
He's running it on a noisy cricket so double the voltage. He's looking at 8.4v/.3Ω = 28amps. Not something I'd push an LG battery to, especially with that amount of power involved.
Get some VTC4s or LG HB series batteries if you want to use that. However I think even the crazies here keep their noisy crickets above .4Ω. Mines on the way to start playing with
.There are some batteries that are safer than others, they can take pushing better than others. Samsung 25r is a good example, not a 25amp but I'd have no problem pushing them there because they run so well. But, you'd be better grabbing the LG HB options as more headroom is always safer. Likewise if I wanted to push beyond 30amps I would never use a VTC4, I'd stick with the LG HBs. VTC4s are a strict 30amp cell, not safe to push where the HBs take the punishment far better. LG HGs are not batteries you want to push either.
AndriaD
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He's running it on a noisy cricket so double the voltage. He's looking at 8.4v/.3Ω = 28amps. Not something I'd push an LG battery to, especially with that amount of power involved.
Get some VTC4s or LG HB series batteries if you want to use that. However I think even the crazies here keep their noisy crickets above .4Ω. Mines on the way to start playing with
There are some batteries that are safer than others, they can take pushing better than others. Samsung 25r is a good example, not a 25amp but I'd have no problem pushing them there because they run so well. But, you'd be better grabbing the LG HB options as more headroom is always safer. Likewise if I wanted to push beyond 30amps I would never use a VTC4, I'd stick with the LG HBs. VTC4s are a strict 30amp cell, not safe to push where the HBs take the punishment far better. LG HGs are not batteries you want to push either.
Well... I'm a 100% math doofus... I didn't know that using 2 batteries meant you're drawing twice the amperage; frankly I can't grok why anyone would WANT that, for vaping, anyway; maybe for a blowtorch.
Really happy I vape my lil 2Ω single coils at 10w or less, and knowing that it will not blow my face off.
Andria
Series you get twice the voltage, parallel you get twice the amperage (though system loss is something you need to factor in).
The series box allows you to get higher wattages without pushing the amperage ratings as much. Take a .4Ω coil and you're going to get 135w+ but only take a 18.5 amp current. To get that same wattage on a parallel box you'd need to get 36amps (which can still be safe) and use a ~.1Ω coil.
Anyways, what I typed wasn't aimed at you other than missing the Noisy cricket part. I know you have your own style and don't really need all this gobbledygook
AndriaD
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I know... but I do try to get my brain around this stuff, fruitless as that effort may be, with my permanent math-dunce status. I like to learn, even if it's just theory that i don't personally need... but all this math/electrical stuff, ugh, a lot of it is just beyond me.
I used to stack 18350s in my Sigelei Zmax; is that series or parellel? I know when you checked battery level, it would show it as double what one battery would show, but you still couldn't use it once it went below about 6.4v (3.2v bottom limit for each battery).
Andria
I used to stack 18350s in my Sigelei Zmax; is that series or parellel? I know when you checked battery level, it would show it as double what one battery would show, but you still couldn't use it once it went below about 6.4v (3.2v bottom limit for each battery).
Andria
Thank you for the info. I didn't plan on building that low, but it's good to know...
He's running it on a noisy cricket so double the voltage. He's looking at 8.4v/.3Ω = 28amps. Not something I'd push an LG battery to, especially with that amount of power involved.
Get some VTC4s or LG HB series batteries if you want to use that. However I think even the crazies here keep their noisy crickets above .4Ω. Mines on the way to start playing with
There are some batteries that are safer than others, they can take pushing better than others. Samsung 25r is a good example, not a 25amp but I'd have no problem pushing them there because they run so well. But, you'd be better grabbing the LG HB options as more headroom is always safer. Likewise if I wanted to push beyond 30amps I would never use a VTC4, I'd stick with the LG HBs. VTC4s are a strict 30amp cell, not safe to push where the HBs take the punishment far better. LG HGs are not batteries you want to push either.
The best advice I can give you is to NOT get any mechanical mod that uses the battery contacts to make or break the circuit. Any arcing can burn right through the very thin metal on the battery contacts VERY quickly. That's a bad thing. The only safe mechanical mods are the ones that use an 'independent' (of the battery) contact/switch to open or close the circuit. Arcing will not be a problem with this design. That said, there aren't very many mechanical mods that don't use the battery to open or close the circuit so....do some homework and choose wisely.
One of my favorites that uses an independent contact is the MCV Raptor. Here's a picture of my brass one (I have the copper one too) with the 12 piece solid silver contact set.
One of my favorites that uses an independent contact is the MCV Raptor. Here's a picture of my brass one (I have the copper one too) with the 12 piece solid silver contact set.
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I'm guessing that arcing would be caused by a non protruding 510 connection? Or at least one reason for this to occur. Anyway, I have a noisy cricket mod and it does use the battery for direct contact. I'm a bit reluctant to use it now. I do have an atty with a solid protuding 510 connection. I believe i need to get higher amperage batteries. All i have at the moment are the LG HG2 brownies. Good batteries but not so much for mech mods. I've read the lg hb's are the best for this type of usage...is this correct?
Follow ohm's law and you're good. HG2s are at a 20amp rating. So 20=4.2/Ω, so if Ω = .21 or higher you're solid. For the NC that's double so .42Ω build or higher. I'd agree that HG2s aren't the "best mech batteries" however if you can follow the ratings you'll be fine and in a series box where the wattage will already be jumping up even at low amperage usage it's more likely that you'll get an enjoyable vape from it. I run my NC at .37 and it's pretty intense, I'm just too lazy to wrap new coils until my new RDAs come in. It's a nice vape though.
AGAIN, " The best advice I can give you is to NOT get any mechanical mod that uses the battery contacts to make or break the circuit. Any arcing can burn right through the very thin metal on the battery contacts VERY quickly. The only 'SAFER' mechanical mods are the ones that use an 'independent' (of the battery) contact/switch to open or close the circuit. Arcing will not be a problem with this design".
If the circuit is closed by making momentary contact with the battery itself to complete (close) the circuit (about 90% of all 'real' mechanical mods operate this way)......buy something else. The danger of arcing through the battery contacts IS real and no amount of "Bro Science" will save you from it. The 'quality' or 'capacity' of the battery has nothing to do with what I am trying to explain to you. For me, any mod that is deigned without a switch that is INDEPENDENT of the battery contacts is a ticking time bomb. How lucky do you feel? Keep in mind that nearly every mod that has gone BANG over the years, is a mechanical mod. If you are not absolutely sure of how these things work and what the 'real' dangers are, give some thought to using a regulated power supply.
Vape SAFE. Nothing else matters.
Oh direct battery connection is perfectly fine. Just make sure the 510 pin protrudes enough, have a good solid connection and keep everything clean. I have 3 Mech's with direct connection and all are absolutely fine.
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Your best bet is honestly not going super sub ohm without understanding your mod and battery very well. You are not going to blow it up unless you are honestly pretty ignorant about it. Always keep your contacts clean (threads, pins, hybrid top, button, etc). Keeping stuff clean helps a lot with making energy escape the way it is supposed to. Use good batteries. Idc what anyone says if its not a LGHB6 or Samsung 25R or Sony VTC4 I don't use it. Each one of those has been used by dudes who build way lower then I do and have never had any problems. Just be smart about it. The lower you go, don't chain vape it. Let the cells rest. Pay attention to your battery life to as well. You should eventually be able to tell when your battery is around 3.7v don't drain it till its dead. It puts to much stress on the cells and shortens the life of your battery. NEVER USE A TANk.... just don't do it. There are to many variables of things to go wrong. I use only hybrid mech mods. I have 12 and never once put a RTA or Tank on one. Stick to only dripper's with long pins on them. If you are smart about it you won't have any problems. Also be sure to check your leads from time to time.
Using a Tank is fine on a Mech, there are a number of Mech's designed to specifically use a Tank. Just like any device you use on a Mech you need to know what you're doing.
