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Updates on the IPV4????
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jfdibutton
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,
I've also been wanting to try the Lemo 2 and I was able to add it for $25. They are only available with the Sig 150 as a promo. Their prices on the Arctic and subtank mini are really good as well.
I did have a code. I'm not at home to be able to verify, and I'm not sure where I found it. Wherever I found it said it would bring it to $75, but I think that was a promo price the post was really old. It still took $10 off. I'm pretty sure it is 75BOXTOP.
I've also been wanting to try the Lemo 2 and I was able to add it for $25. They are only available with the Sig 150 as a promo. Their prices on the Arctic and subtank mini are really good as well.
I'm noticing my ohm reader is a bit off, around .05 higher than the iPV4. I trust the device more, but the coil I just wrapped, 3mm, 13 wrap 26ga, came to .097 when it should be .12 as per Steam Engine. I'm hoping my device isn't off. Can even the temperature of the room make a difference when this specific? My .09 coil from yesterday was reading .075 in the morning. It went from 50s to snowing overnight, so could that drop resistance? Temp control basically wasn't putting any vapor out. I set the resistance at .09ish, where it was, by pulsing the coil, and it was working great. Has me a bit worried. All has stayed consistent, at least.
Maverik_X
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You guys see that Aspire's parent company is now making ni200 coils for the Atlantis?
5pk Atlantis Ni-200 Organic Cotton Coils 60 - 80 Watts
These are made by Eigate (What you know as Aspire) packaged and branded for VapeOnly
Coming May 12 - 14th and... They are fantasic
Compatible with Atlantis 1, Atlantis 2, Atlantis Mega
Manufacturer: Eigate
Brand: VapeOnly (VAir-T Temperature Control Line)
Resistance: 0.25 ohm
Wicking Material: Organic Cotton
Compatible With: Aspire Atlantis, Atlantis 2, Atlantis Mega
Smok also has a new tank comming out soon for Temp control. should pair nice with iPV4.
I do like the green o-rings.
Smok TCT PRO Tank (Ni-200)
5pk Atlantis Ni-200 Organic Cotton Coils 60 - 80 Watts
These are made by Eigate (What you know as Aspire) packaged and branded for VapeOnly
Coming May 12 - 14th and... They are fantasic
Compatible with Atlantis 1, Atlantis 2, Atlantis Mega
Manufacturer: Eigate
Brand: VapeOnly (VAir-T Temperature Control Line)
Resistance: 0.25 ohm
Wicking Material: Organic Cotton
Compatible With: Aspire Atlantis, Atlantis 2, Atlantis Mega
Smok also has a new tank comming out soon for Temp control. should pair nice with iPV4.
I do like the green o-rings.
Smok TCT PRO Tank (Ni-200)
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Yes ambient temperature definitely has an effect. Phil Busardo said each 0.01 change in resistance is approximately equivalent to 30° F in temperature difference. So your weather definitely sound like it would cause at least a few 100th's of resistance change.
You described a 0.015 drop which would be equivalent to 50°F down to about 1°F, which sounds a bit severe. But maybe the coil was warmer than 50 beforehand (handling it, being near a source of heat in the house, etc?)
Another thing that can cause issues is keeping your mod and atty separate - let's say you left your mod in the (cold) car and then brought it into the (warm) house and immediately started vaping. TC might not be as effective because the mod did not not start at the same temperature as the atty/coil.
For those reasons, I really like Yihi's implementation of Set Resistance (compared to the DNA 40's "Refinement".) You can quickly and easily run Set Resistance again any time you suspect an earlier reading might have been inaccurate. (I believe recent versions of the DNA 40 might also now have a similar feature, but am not sure on the details.)
The few times that I've taken an atty that I've been recently vaping on the DNA 40 and put it on the IPV4, I've a) sucked air through it for a while to cool it down as much as possible b) taken multiple Set Resistance readings, over the course of a couple of minutes at least, until the resistance seems stable.
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I figured that being based off of resting temp, and that a hot coil raises resistance, going from warm weather to snowy cold, and now back, could lower resistance. Mod and atty are in the same room, but the atty was hanging out on a thick copper Cartel, no batteries. That probably cooled it more, it just has stabilized around .075. Seems weird it would change.Yes ambient temperature definitely has an effect. EDIT: I need to go check the numbers, putting this paragraph back in in a sec
Another thing that can cause issues is keeping your mod and atty separate - let's say you left your mod in the (cold) car and then brought it into the (warm) house and immediately started vaping. TC might not be as effective because the mod did not not start at the same temperature as the atty/coil.
For those reasons, I really like Yihi's implementation of Set Resistance (compared to the DNA 40's "Refinement".) You can quickly and easily run Set Resistance again any time you suspect an earlier reading might have been inaccurate. (I believe recent versions of the DNA 40 might also now have a similar feature, but am not sure on the details.)
The few times that I've taken an atty that I've been recently vaping on the DNA 40 and put it on the IPV4, I've a) sucked air through it for a while to cool it down as much as possible b) taken multiple Set Resistance readings, over the course of a couple of minutes at least, until the resistance seems stable.
My new coil at .095 reads .12 on the ohm meter, and first test with dry rayon no burning at all. A couple times through my first two dripper's full of vape, it bumped power and burned wick once each time. I'm at 420 degrees which is below combustion for rayon, I pulled back the joules a bit. I'm letting it cool and will set resistance again. I can't find a good answer on setting resistance dry or juiced? Seems it would make a difference.
My iPV4 seems about .05 under my meter or so, but I think the meter is the issue. I have a .43 coil that goes between .3 and .4 on my other iPV's, so I'm thinking my meter might be off.
As I was writing the above response about resistance, temperature, I got a bit confused about the numbers I remembered Phil Busardo quoting. So I went to check on it.
I found a really interesting Resistivity, Temperature calculator.
For example, here I filled out:
Then when I clicked calculate, it showed me that the final temperature of that coil was -17.7° C, which is about 1° F.
Or I could have done it the other way around - putting in 0.09 starting resistance, 10° C starting temperature, and some final temperature, to see what drop in resistance that would give.
Kind of interesting to understand what's going on with our coils!
I found a really interesting Resistivity, Temperature calculator.
- You put in 0.006 for the "Resistivity, Temperature Coefficient" which is the coefficient for Nickel (probably pure Nickel not Ni200, but close enough). There's a table below the calculator with numbers listed for different materials (be interesting to look at Titanium!)
- You then fill out three of the following four fields:
- The original temperature (in °C, not F)
- The final temperature (°C)
- The starting resistance
- The end resistance
For example, here I filled out:
- Starting resistance: 0.09
- Ending resistance: 0.075
- Original temperature: 10° C (= 50° F)
Then when I clicked calculate, it showed me that the final temperature of that coil was -17.7° C, which is about 1° F.
Or I could have done it the other way around - putting in 0.09 starting resistance, 10° C starting temperature, and some final temperature, to see what drop in resistance that would give.
Kind of interesting to understand what's going on with our coils!
Thanks for the info. This tech is new, and there isn't too much out there, yet. You got way deeper than I could've found on my own. Something seems a bit strange, but it potentially did drop 50 degrees over that time, but that was outside. Also, it's at .075 still.
The coil I made today being .95 as opposed to the .12 Steam Engine says it should be is odd. I never really us Steam Machine for coils, mostly ohms law stuff, so I don't know if my coils are usually different. I'm gonna keep tinkering. A 13 wrap coil is tough to fit with wicking into a Mutation X.
The coil I made today being .95 as opposed to the .12 Steam Engine says it should be is odd. I never really us Steam Machine for coils, mostly ohms law stuff, so I don't know if my coils are usually different. I'm gonna keep tinkering. A 13 wrap coil is tough to fit with wicking into a Mutation X.
I'm wondering if the fact that it's a non contact coil has significant difference in Steam Engine, too. Still need to figure out if I should juice first, too. I can see the logic of both ways.
Man, I let It rest, and now it's reading .079 from .095. This is after firing it and then letting it completely cool. I'm wondering if that shifts it. But, now the two coils about match resistance, and they are about identical in wraps. Will see how it vapes. Still seems too low for 13 wrap 26ga 3mm. Also, My set resistance feature on power mode, and also with no atty, said .050. Seems strange. All works fine in power mode.
I'm guessing it's user error and finicky tech, but I had stuff working great initially, and now it's kinda odd. I wanna figure this out quickly, if it's my device I want to handle it fast, so hopefully Wake and Vape would exchange, when they stock up. Hoping that's not the case.
I'm guessing it's user error and finicky tech, but I had stuff working great initially, and now it's kinda odd. I wanna figure this out quickly, if it's my device I want to handle it fast, so hopefully Wake and Vape would exchange, when they stock up. Hoping that's not the case.
Another day, and no IPV4 for me 
My tracking still just saying departed LA on the 6th, no updates since, going to give it till tomorrow evening, and then send a message to USPS, in past experiences like this, contacting USPS when no movement, magical makes it move again.
I will get a IPV4 some day lol
My tracking still just saying departed LA on the 6th, no updates since, going to give it till tomorrow evening, and then send a message to USPS, in past experiences like this, contacting USPS when no movement, magical makes it move again.
I will get a IPV4 some day lol
For Ni200, the temperature coefficient of resistance is 0.004 ohms per degree C. It's directly proportional whether the temperature is going up or down.
Say, for example, you start out at a room temperature of 75 degrees Fahrenheit (23.9 degres Celsius) and you are vaping at 450 degrees Fahrenheit (232.2 degrees Celsius), that temperature increase of 374 degrees Fahrenheit (208.4 degrees Celsius) translates directly to an increase in resistance of approximately .83 ohms. I expect this example is a reasonably common a real world situation, but it would work exactly the other way around if your coil cooled down below the set resistance. The resistance would drop 0.004 ohms for every degree Celsius it cooled below the temperature it was at when you originally set the resistance.
It would probably be a good practice to reset the resistance anytime you expect to be vaping for a while in an environment that is either significantly hotter or significantly cooler than the environment you were in when you last set the resistance.
Say, for example, you start out at a room temperature of 75 degrees Fahrenheit (23.9 degres Celsius) and you are vaping at 450 degrees Fahrenheit (232.2 degrees Celsius), that temperature increase of 374 degrees Fahrenheit (208.4 degrees Celsius) translates directly to an increase in resistance of approximately .83 ohms. I expect this example is a reasonably common a real world situation, but it would work exactly the other way around if your coil cooled down below the set resistance. The resistance would drop 0.004 ohms for every degree Celsius it cooled below the temperature it was at when you originally set the resistance.
It would probably be a good practice to reset the resistance anytime you expect to be vaping for a while in an environment that is either significantly hotter or significantly cooler than the environment you were in when you last set the resistance.
Sucks man. I'm having "fun" with mine, in that this frustration with Kanthal would make me nuts, but figuring this out keeps it cool. Kinda worrying, though.Another day, and no IPV4 for me
My tracking still just saying departed LA on the 6th, no updates since, going to give it till tomorrow evening, and then send a message to USPS, in past experiences like this, contacting USPS when no movement, magical makes it move again.
I will get a IPV4 some day lol
I called USPS when my tracking went backwards, and it got nothing but a smart ass attitude sent my way. Being in customer service most of my life, I'm extremely patient and kind on the phone, too. USPS sucks.
I just shorted my new coil, fun. I thought it was close to the center post, drawing air must've shifted it. The short protection works, confirmed.
Yeah, I'm getting the infancy aspect of this technology, now. Still awesome, but this is a reason it has a ways to go for the mainstream. Do Ni200 coils typically drop a bit of resistance after use, then cool down. Mine are.
Back to building. My V2 Mutation has the triangle grub nuts, but they are way more sturdy of a connection than the V3. I'm using the V2 right now.
I got my money in paypal this morning from GB. Feel pretty good about that because I was not sure how they would be.
I also have found Wake & Vape to be much more responsive and easier to deal with already. They are expecting another batch of silver on Thursday.
I am having the same issue with a Shark order. No movement past acceptance on the 6th. I just called them and spoke to them and was told to open up a inquiry with the usps. I guess I will do just that if it does not arrive tomorrow.Another day, and no IPV4 for me
My tracking still just saying departed LA on the 6th, no updates since, going to give it till tomorrow evening, and then send a message to USPS, in past experiences like this, contacting USPS when no movement, magical makes it move again.
I will get a IPV4 some day lol
Yes I've not bothered contacting wakeandvape, they did ship it, and says it departed LA, so got past the acceptance stage, I'll give it another 24 hours, as is first class shipping, then think 5 days is fair to contact USPS to see if can get it moving again.
There are a lot of factors that could affect the temperature of your coils and how rapidly it changes. Everything from ambient air temperature to the temperature of your mod to how much you're handling the atomizer to the temperature of the juice being wicked into the coil to any evaporation from the wick because of something like flavorings used that were in an alcohol base. You may notice it, but none of that stuff should be anything to worry about though.
My VS deal has never shown any movement after acceptance. Like you I figure I will contact usps tomorrow if it does not arrive. It was 1-4 day priority.
Maybe we both will get lucky.
Thanks very much for the further details! But I am struggling to relate the details you gave to the coefficient calculators I've been looking at.
Using a figure of either 0.006 (Nickel) or 0.004 (Ni200), I have tried multiple calculators and all show that a resistance of 0.1 will rise to 0.22 when the temperature goes from 23.9°C to 232.2°C. An increase of 0.12, not 0.83. That's for Nickel at 0.0059 coefficient. Using a coefficient of 0.004 it shows a rise of only 0.08 - 0.10 to 0.18.
Here's the one I'm looking at currently, showing the formula and then you can again fill in the figures and click one of the links to calculate that value: Temperature Coefficient of Resistance (HyperPhysics site).
Am I doing something wrong? I'm just putting in a figure of 0.004 or 0.006 for the coefficient (to be precise, on this latest calculator, I put in 59 x 10^-4, or 40 x 10^-4), then entering the start resistance and start/end temps.
I also did a practical test, taking a Ni200 coil at 0.15 and firing it at 450° F, then immediately doing Set Resistance to see the new 'hot' resistance. That showed it was 0.254, an increase of about .10. EDIT: Did it again, same result - 0.150 to 0.254, increase of 0.14, after firing at 450 (without drawing any air, just firing) for about 5 seconds.
That does seem to tie in to the figures I'm getting from the calc. So are you sure it's a linear 0.004 change in ohms per ° C ?
PS. Also are you sure that 0.004 is the right figure for Ni200? I see 0.004 mentioned as a figure for NiChrome, but NiChrome is a lot less pure Nickel than Ni200 is. Ni200 is 99.6% Nickel and NiChrome is usually only 80% Nickel. Based on my (very rough) practical test, showing an increase of 0.14 from ~ 20°C to ~ 230°C, and matching that to what I heard Busardo say about 0.01 = 30°F in Ni200, which seemed to check out when I used the calcs with Nickel's coefficient, I believe the coefficient for Ni200 is very close to the 0.0059 of pure Nickel. Maybe 0.0055 or that sort of ballpark.
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I would not be at all worried that your mod is having problems. There's loads of areas for inaccuracy, where Steam Engine might give different figures.
Firstly, is your wire exactly the diameter of wire that Steam Engine is using? If you put in say 28 Gauge, it shows 0.321mm. We don't know if your wire is precisely, to three decimal places, that width. (And in fact most Nickel wire is not even measured in AWG, when I buy 28G I get 0.32mm and they call it 28 just as the nearest AWG figure, for convenience.)
Then, are you calculating your leg lengths 100% accurately? More importantly, does the total length of wire involved in your coil exactly match the total length of wire Steam Engine is using for its calc? (you can see that figure in Advanced mode if it's not already displayed.) As you said, a spaced coil uses slightly more wire than a normal micro coil - I seem to recall that Steam Engine lets you specify how far apart the coils are, that would need to be 100% accurate. But the most important figure, the one Steam Engine uses for the calc, is the "Total wire length" figure - you can ignore the other figures and just look at that one, comparing it to the total length of your wire (if you unravelled it and laid it perfectly flat/straight and then measured it.)
I once did some tests trying to confirm the accuracy of the ohms display in two mods - I didn't have a third ohms reader/mod to compare them against. I cut a length of Kanthal wire exactly 60mm long (or as close as I could get it), which according to Steam Engine would have given me a resistance of 0.49 (I think it was. ) I chose that resistance because it was one that I found that corresponded to an exact round mm length figure, after playing about with the target resistance a while.
I tightened that between the positive/negative as carefully as possible - grabbing the very ends of the wire, as little overlap as possible so the path of resistance would be the true full length of the wire, or as close as possible. I didn't coil it, just bent it in an arc to go between the two posts.
Even then, the closest either of my mods got to it was 0.51, a difference of 0.02.
Remember there's a lot of other metal between the chip and the coil - wires from the chip to the mod 510, the mod 510, the atty 510, all the metal in the positive/negative path of the atty. Although that's all super low resistance wire, it's not completely zero.
TLDR: There's no reason at all to think the mod is faulty. Just carry on and do some TC vapes and see how you like them
Edit to add: My DNA 40 clone (Chinese Vapor Flask 2.1 clone) consistently measures resistance higher than my other mods. I don't know why, and it bugs me a bit. But it doesn't break my vapes. Example - a coil measuring 0.150 on the IPV4 will show 0.17 on the VF. Is that affecting the TC vape? A little, probably. But I still get good TC vapes from that VF. I do find the IPV4 a bit better, but it's far from night and day - and most of that difference is going to be down to the IPV4's extra 20W, and the fact that you can lock in resistance. I don't believe that small resistance change is breaking anything - it just means I usually set the target temp a little differently on the VF.
In all scenarios, target temps are not precise science anyway. Someone on the forum might say they like ModX with RDA Y at temp Z°, you might have all the same stuff and do the same builds (so far as you can compare) and prefer a very different temp. TC is still about getting somewhere near the temp, even in the best possible circumstances. Worst case even if your resistance is always out, you will automatically adjust for that in the target temp just by finding the temps you like for the attys/builds you do. But it won't be out on the IPV4, I'm pretty sure.
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@TheBloke thanks for the help. Those things you mention are why I never have used Steam Engine in the past, plus, I have had meters since I've been building, I don't trust a website to see if I've got a short, for instance. I noticed all the details, and figured as much.
I'm vaping another new one. Same wraps, but a bit tighter together. It's a.095 again prior to vaping, letting it cool to see if it drops the same. I figured with my first build, ironically going strong since day one, since the ohms dropped giving a weak vape I'd try upping the temp, and 480-500 vapes nice, and doesn't seem to burn rayon, though it's close. I need to find the combustion point of cellucotton. I know cotton is around 420. If 500 works for mine and stays steady, I'm good. I like a hot vape anyway.
My new coil is seeming to settle at .092, but it is slowly dropping. The atty is definitely cool, at least room temp.
I'm having fun so far, not gonna worry about the device after this reading from you and @IML8. Only reason I even mentioned that is for something new, I always would prefer to catch it early, so I can exchange with the vendor and avoid warranty. I think all is good.
I noticed all the details, and figured as much. I'm vaping another new one. Same wraps, but a bit tighter together. It's a.095 again prior to vaping, letting it cool to see if it drops the same. I figured with my first build, ironically going strong since day one, since the ohms dropped giving a weak vape I'd try upping the temp, and 480-500 vapes nice, and doesn't seem to burn rayon, though it's close. I need to find the combustion point of cellucotton. I know cotton is around 420. If 500 works for mine and stays steady, I'm good. I like a hot vape anyway.
My new coil is seeming to settle at .092, but it is slowly dropping. The atty is definitely cool, at least room temp.
I'm having fun so far, not gonna worry about the device after this reading from you and @IML8. Only reason I even mentioned that is for something new, I always would prefer to catch it early, so I can exchange with the vendor and avoid warranty. I think all is good.
jfdibutton
Member For 4 Years
What vendors are you finding these deals at? I always love a good deal so I am always looking for good vendors. I also will spend a little more to support vendors that take care of you after the sale. I have had way to many experiences of feeling invisible after my money leaves my account.
On that note, I had mentioned in a previous post that my iStick 50W bit the dust. I emailed vapordna this morning about it:
"Hi, I am writing to see if there is anything that you can do to help me
out. My istick 50 watt that I ordered on 03/30/15 Order# 83877, received on
04/04/2015, has stopped working. Last week it stopped charging when I
plugged it in. The screen would turn on so it obviously knows I plugged it
in. I figured I would try running it down to where it said the battery was
dead and then charge. (I had only charged it about 5 times prior to this
and usually around half battery left) I have now done that, I plugged it in
and the screen came on for a few seconds then went dark, still no lightning
bolt on the battery. A couple hours later I picked it up and unplugged it.
The battery meter shows full, but when I fire it the display comes up as
"Power Low", it makes a weird little sound, and doesn't fire."
They sent me an email asking if I want credited or a replacement. I asked for them to let me know what steps I need to complete for credit since I don't currently need anything. I will let you all know how that goes. I think this is great customer service considering that I have had it in my hands for over a month. They aren't hassling me about sending to Asmodus.
jfdibutton
Member For 4 Years
I would love to support my local B&M's, but they are all way to high on their mark-ups. I understand they have a store front to pay for and all the expenses that come along with that. However, when I see them selling at 2 to 5 times the prices online it makes it hard to justify. One of them charged over $20 for an E-Fest purple battery that I needed immediately. Another was charging $50 for a cheap mech mod that I could buy on Fasttech for less than $10, of course they were calling it something different than the listing online. I found it on a domestic website for $20. I get that I am quoting a price from China that is going to take forever to get here, and an online price. However, I feel that $30 is a more realistic/fair price. 150% of domestic online pricing.
My thought process is this. Considering the profit margin that is on juice (especially since both of them have their own juice lines) you would think that they would want to sell the hardware at a reasonable price to pull in customers for the juice. People aren't going to buy juice if they can't afford something to vape it with.
Oh lord - I didn't mean 'local' as in a B&M LOL I meant in the US, rather than having to wait for the slow boat from China!
Nope. All I know is what I've read. It certainly wouldn't be the first time I was wrong about something and I'm reasonably sure it won't be the last...,but I could be wrong about that.
CTFX
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A week or 2
CTFX
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I have it on preorder from vapenw. They said shipment would either come by the 10th or they are getting it shipped that day. Not too sure. I will look for a email in a week or 2 and post back here
CTFX
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Just telling you what i was emailed. Maybe longer I don't know
CTFX
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That's why this thread is so great
CTFX
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That I can't be sure of either. Guess we'll both find out in due time. I'm really hoping it's that all carbon fiber black look. Pretty slick looking!
Do you guys think, if temp control mods become the standard, we're going to see less and less glass RTAs since being able to see the liquid level will become less important? And, if so, will it effect engineering?
Looking at the thumbnail I thought the white at the upper left was a nice cloud. You show great control, get it out of that box.
CTFX
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Go enjoy yourself!
Lol thanks. I had previously preordered through gear best, said eff that after a month or so and some ridiculous emails from them. Got this one from vapor range. So far I love the feel, the weight is great menu is easy, mirrored screen can suck it, the 510 on it is great, now to play with my kanger ni200 coils
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So far only two real cons. One of them is subjective. The mirrored screen. Which can be remedied. And no button lock which is a pretty big con for me. Guess ill just have to pay better attention to where I put it
I don't miss a button lock... 5 pushes
turns the unit off.. 5 more turns it back on.. I don't really need to turn it off that much anyway.. Just sayin
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Fair enough. I just know for me my mods are always in and out of pockets or anywhere else I need to set it while working. But I do get what your saying
CTFX
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5 pushes and the up button to shut off...I would agree it's a con also
So that is 6 buttons to turn it off lol
Maverik_X
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Did you see the Silver one with the Carbon Fiber shell? it looks pretty sick. He even modified the mirror screen, gotta say it looks great.
Maverik_X
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I wouldn't even begin to try and guess what direction Vaping is going to go.
I do think there is room for alot of improvements.
I think this year temp control is really going to start taking off. Sub ohm clearo's will still be as hot as they are , but we will start to see alot more tanks with top fill, increased air flow. Better wicking coils eg.
cardassian
Member For 4 Years
Got my refund off GB today. Ordered from a NZ site and it should be here tomorrow. Getting excited now.
Eciggity is doing preorder and silver should be shipping on the 16th. Just got an email that they are doing a one day 25% off everything except sx mods. That would make the ipv4 $72. Thinking about getting one just because. But I already have 2 dna40 devices and an sxmini m
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