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VaporShark DNA200 or SX Q Class

Q-Class vs Vaporshark DNA 200 - Which Would You Choose?

  • Q-Class

    Votes: 14 51.9%
  • VS DNA200

    Votes: 13 48.1%

  • Total voters
    27
  • Poll closed .

rice721

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The QC quality is GARBAGE on this mod, two magnets have already came loose and the inside of the door is scratched up a bit. 25mm devices look odd, anything bigger is a HELL NO if it's even possible to get a connection.

Want a Q Class experience? Buy a 350J-V2 Renegade. EVERYTHING, minus the Q taste control (which is a lie as far as I can tell I've noticed nothing from playing with it)

This thing is so light it feels like air and it's WEIRD, and the ergonomics are a C- at best.

Software is garbage. Sorry, just is. Hardly any options, it ripped off Escribe in 25% of its features, added some nonsense, made it headache inducing to look at it and SOLD DAT SHIT $$$$ WE CHINA BABY MURICA BUY ALL'AH OUR SHIT.

Seriously, this is not even close to a DNA200, this is a 350J-V2 with SX taste technology that does nothing and the quality control is CRAP.

200W is not 200W, it peaks at 172W mean then pulses in short burst to hit 195W or so and the batteries start getting uh-oh hot, it's pulling unsafe (the fact it even allows this is a WTF thing to me) amounts of current off of them. It sucks batteries DEAD quick, I mean like QUICK. Expect 6 hours tops over 80W.

This is a let down. I thought it would be good. The mod is just shittily made and it's a 350J-V2 with one new feature. Fuck SX, never getting another CENT off of me.

This mod does not hit 200W, I took engineering equipment far more accurate then Ebay O-scopes to it. It peaked at 175W mean, then bounced from 153W to 195W in small pulses. It also fucking SUCKED current out of the batteries. This mod is unsafe, it cannot do a legit, direct 200W, it's cheaply made, it can do nothing, actually it can do LESS than the DNA200, the software is useless and headache inducing and it's overpriced.

Avoid this, seriously. Two magnets just popped out fresh out of the box and the inside of the door was covered in scratches and the bottom of the mod has a small gash. The wattage down button STICKS sometimes and in TC mode it falls LEAGUES behind a properly set up DNA.

Don't buy this, I had somewhat decent hopes for this, not DNA killer hopes, but fairly good. It let me down so hard I threw it into the wall. Still works, but it wasn't hard given air weighs more than this piece of lies and Chinese cheap labor.

FUCK this mod. It's going in the never to be used corner.

DNA200 > SX350J-V2 > RX200 Board > Sigelei 213 Board > 450J board.

Seriously, it's that bad.

That sucks. Like I said the SX450 is just the SX350j V2 with 1 or 2 improvements, namely 2amp charging and that Q taste conrol (?). I don't mind if the mods light, prefer it that way so its easier to pocket without sag in your pants or hoodie or shirt pocket. But the thing is quite large.

What really strike me as odd is the magnets falling off...what? Have to agree with DNA > SX350J-V2 but the 350 chip is still a great board IMHO.

Spend $50 bucks more and invest in a Boxer SX350J v2. I have one, I rarely go above 60W for my daily vapes so not being able to hit 200 is a non-issue for me. The mod weighs in at 57 grams...with 2 batteries (around 45-50g each) its at 157grams...thats lighter than the vaporshark @ 170g.
 

Mikhail Naumov

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Is this a final product mod? I wasn't aware they were available yet..but thanks for effectively talking me out of getting the Q as I had extremely high hopes for it coming from my M class. Either way, sounds like a terrible first impression so thanks!

Yes it's final. Three magnets out of the door now.. ugh.

The board itself is fine, it's just a 350J-V2 with one or two new features that don't do much.

The MOD is the problem, it's possible the 450J on its own could be great. The Q Class mod though, is CRAP. QC was nonexistant.
 

Mikhail Naumov

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By the way, SX Q Taste control does nothing I can even remotely notice, it's basically a pseudo-fail TC that tries to work with power mode builds and does literally nothing during TC. SX-Pure technology and taste control are garbage, but they won't hurt your vape, they just definitely don't improve it. I'm gonna give this mod another week, if the forth magnet falls out I'm just going to drill holes for my own, but the insides of the doors are ALL Scratched up and this was fresh out of the box, along with a gash on the bottom. Also, if you use 24-25mm stuff, it will look weird and if it's a tank your airflow could be blocked off, anything else won't even work and if it does it will look awful.

So tempted to tear the board out of this mod and put it in a CNC. By the way, this mod reading down to 0.0001 or whatever is useless, the pseudo-200W isn't even enough to power a .01 coil enough to even get to 1.5V. So that's a useless feature.

DNA all the way, this mod is a waste of $200 and it's not worth it. Get a DNA, and wait for the SX450J board to be released on its own. THEN buy it.

Vaping a DNA in power mode at 140W-200W is a much more satisfying experience than 140-200W on the Q Class. It's far more accurate, and the Q will let you vent your batteries it seems, especially if it's boosting the voltage and hashing up the input (draw) current. Outputting 25A, drawing 35-40A+. DANGEROUS SHIT HERE PEOPLE. It isn't a real 200W, the best this mod will do directly is around 170W, the rest is a pseudo-pulse charge. 1-130W is about the same on power mode to a DNA. TC blows the Q class out of the water and shoots it out of the sky in TC mode, it also has far more options and Escribe is MUCH better than SX-Q software.

Also, I vaped at 142W on the Q for 4 hours using LG HG2 3,000mah 20A CDR batteries and not only did they constantly get uh-oh TR levels of hot, it sucked them to 3V or so each in that four hours on a moderate level of vaping. Not chain vaping.

If anyone wants this abomination, Varitube has the black (the type I got) in stock, final release. The rest are pre-orders that ship out within the week.
 
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rice721

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I would bet that there will be a coupon for Memorial day too.

Wish I was stateside to take advantage of that. I'm going to wait until 11/11 which is China's "thanksgiving sales" day...I've heard story of items being 50% off...its my 1st year here.
 

Mikhail Naumov

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Eciggity just recently had somewhat of a blowout sale. Hell, 80% of the places who had the Q on preorder offered 20% off. Now I know why, no way in hell this mod is worth 200 dollars. The M and ML class were at the very least strong. Sure the finish flaked off on the M but that's fairly common on mods, even early Vaporshark mods did that. I guess Yihi's first try with magnets were a no go.
 

skt239

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If VS has improved the finished on their mods, is there any point in paying the extra $20 for the protective coating?
 

Mikhail Naumov

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Honestly man, go Lavabox. You can buy the Lavabox AND the 1,300mah extension for the price of a VS and it's a very reliable, compact mod. Then if you get a 3S charger, you can switch from the 900mah to the 1,300mah and potentially get a whole day out of it.
 

Wingsfan0310

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If VS has improved the finished on their mods, is there any point in paying the extra $20 for the protective coating?
I believe the protective coating is applied to the board in case juice was to leak on it. I don't have a VS but I believe I remember reading that awhile ago (I read quite a bit and have a pretty good memory for an old dude lol). Perhaps @f1r3b1rd can confirm or elaborate.

Cheers,
Steve
 

skt239

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I believe the protective coating is applied to the board in case juice was to leak on it. I don't have a VS but I believe I remember reading that awhile ago (I read quite a bit and have a pretty good memory for an old dude lol). Perhaps @f1r3b1rd can confirm or elaborate.

Cheers,
Steve

I see so if I do go the VS route I guess I'll keep a skin on it...

So think I've decided on a DNA200. One of the main reasons I'm leaning towards the VS is the pre loaded settings. We don't have a PC at home, everything is Mac. I could always use a friends or one at my mom and dads house but that could be a pain. So, other than the VS and the SMY (which I don't want) are there any other DNA's that come with settings pre-loaded? Thanks for helping me out here guys, I really appreciate it.
 

Wingsfan0310

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I wanted to add something. As you know I have two Lavaboxes. Volcano (who makes them) is located in the USA as well (Hawaii). I've contacted their customer service a couple times and they were always quick to respond to my questions (both before and after the sale). Not trying to sway you one way or the other but I figured it's information that might be pertinent.

Cheers,
Steve
 

Wingsfan0310

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I see so if I do go the VS route I guess I'll keep a skin on it...

So think I've decided on a DNA200. One of the main reasons I'm leaning towards the VS is the pre loaded settings. We don't have a PC at home, everything is Mac. I could always use a friends or one at my mom and dads house but that could be a pain. So, other than the VS and the SMY (which I don't want) are there any other DNA's that come with settings pre-loaded? Thanks for helping me out here guys, I really appreciate it.
Again, going off memory, I believe some of the Lost Vape DNA200 mods come set-up. I unfortunately don't have any myself to personally confirm this (I'm almost sure I read the Duo came set-up).

It's too bad you don't live close to me. I've set so many of these up, I could set up one for you in around 30 minutes. Once you have done it a few times, it's not bad at all. I also have a ton of custom screens, temperature curves.for just about every TC wire I know of, etc. Good luck buddy and I personally believe you will be very pleased with a DNA200 mod!

Cheers,
Steve
 

skt239

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Again, going off memory, I believe some of the Lost Vape DNA200 mods come set-up. I unfortunately don't have any myself to personally confirm this (I'm almost sure I read the Duo came set-up).

It's too bad you don't live close to me. I've set so many of these up, I could set up one for you in around 30 minutes. Once you have done it a few times, it's not bad at all. I also have a ton of custom screens, temperature curves.for just about every TC wire I know of, etc. Good luck buddy and I personally believe you will be very pleased with a DNA200 mod!

Cheers,
Steve
Apologies if I already asked that question. I love the VS but that battery life keeps me reconsidering. Looking closely at the Volcano seems like it's a no brainer. Great battery life even without the extention, the option for a battery extention, American based support and what I read is a durable finish. I'm not crazy about the looks of it but I always choose function over form. DJLSB Vapes has profiles that are downloadable and uploadable for pretty much all the big name DNA's so that would at least get me up and running until I figured out what kind of tweeks I want to make.
 

f1r3b1rd

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If VS has improved the finished on their mods, is there any point in paying the extra $20 for the protective coating?

no no no no no
that is not what the coarting is for.
the coating is to protect the inside from juice spillage.
in 10 vs mods, I have NEVER had a problem. in the older models there was a seam that ran across the top from one edge to the other; because the oor came off on the side.
a lot of people had mini strokes because that meant it would leak.
so vs adopted this coating, similar to what they do to the sports series Samsung phones.
I have never once gotten it and never will.
the coating is essentially a vaporized silicone that is inside the device. its purpose was never to protect the exterior.
on the 200's the door opens at the spine so the coating really is pointless.

these are pics of a 3 month old dna 200 that has never had a skin on it a hcigar 133 and Cloudmaker dna200

the shark has some pocket lint on it, but that is it, the finish is completely intact
F35A9B7B-D44D-408E-9D83-FBB7151A2489_zps7gqmrdr1.jpg

00B44CEE-972A-45D5-AF6D-2B46C7739E0A_zpskcc5ldyz.jpg

C3B64394-3855-4D36-BED4-C6D623225052_zpspi4ldyk2.jpg

0303E6AB-D1F5-4069-B1EA-91019F651019_zpsr6fgsyz4.jpg
 
Last edited:

skt239

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no no no no no
that is not what the coarting is for.
the coating is to protect the inside from juice spillage.
in 10 vs mods, I have NEVER had a problem. in the older models there was a seam that ran across the top from one edge to the other; because the oor came off on the side.
a lot of people had mini strokes because that meant it would leak.
so vs adopted this coating, similar to what they do to the sports series Samsung phones.
I have never once gotten it and never will.
the coating is essentially a vaporized silicone that is inside the device. its purpose was never to protect the exterior.
on the 200's the door opens at the spine so the coating really is pointless.

these are pics of a 3 month old dna 200 that has never had a skin on it
a hcigar 133
and
Cloudmaker dna200
F35A9B7B-D44D-408E-9D83-FBB7151A2489_zps7gqmrdr1.jpg

00B44CEE-972A-45D5-AF6D-2B46C7739E0A_zpskcc5ldyz.jpg

C3B64394-3855-4D36-BED4-C6D623225052_zpspi4ldyk2.jpg

0303E6AB-D1F5-4069-B1EA-91019F651019_zpsr6fgsyz4.jpg

Thanks for clearing that up.
 

Mikhail Naumov

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I know the SMY SDNA200 final production version has presets for nickel, 316L stainless, I think 304 stainless and then Titanium G1 as well as a 'power mode' profile with custom graphics. It also has all case internals plus mod resistance set up. Even if a mod doesn't, there's files you can download and literally just OPEN with Escribe and it loads it all on for you, then you tether the DNA to Escribe via USB and hit upload settings to device. You can run the numbers yourself (I prefer to do this, because presets and files are just mean results or results off ONE mod, every mod is a little different) for the case thermals and mod resistance as well using the case analyzer and some effort.

I highly recommend if you don't have a file to open in ES or get a mod with them preset that you do this. It can drastically improve the accuracy of the mod, especially the mod resistance field, this plays a huge role in getting accurate power from the power source (battery(ies)) to the 510/atomizer.

I don't like Vaporsharks. They make pretty good mods, I just don't like the 900mah (It's FullyMax, I work for FullyMax, I'm one of their design engineers, it's a good battery but it's also one of our most generic small pack lipos.) capacity, it's got a decent C rating and since the DNA is buck only you won't ever vent it through use of power alone, but you will run it dead QUICK if you vape above 30W. Also, any DNA200 can have 2A charging, it's a resistor/diode combo trick on the board. VS didn't just magically get a custom board, you can do it to any mod with a DNA board. The Lavabox has 2A charging too I believe because it comes with a 2A charging wall head. The BIG no no on the VS is the screen on the bottom. THAT'S WHERE I SIT MY MOD, I don't want my screen taking the full force of impact every time I sit it down.
 

f1r3b1rd

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Thanks for clearing that up.
roger roger.
I imagine that if you worked on the water, or in the weather the coating might hold some value, but if that were the case, I wouldn't recommend that mod as a viable option anyway.
 

f1r3b1rd

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i
I know the SMY SDNA200 final production version has presets for nickel, 316L stainless, I think 304 stainless and then Titanium G1 as well as a 'power mode' profile with custom graphics. It also has all case internals plus mod resistance set up. Even if a mod doesn't, there's files you can download and literally just OPEN with Escribe and it loads it all on for you, then you tether the DNA to Escribe via USB and hit upload settings to device. You can run the numbers yourself (I prefer to do this, because presets and files are just mean results or results off ONE mod, every mod is a little different) for the case thermals and mod resistance as well using the case analyzer and some effort.

I highly recommend if you don't have a file to open in ES or get a mod with them preset that you do this. It can drastically improve the accuracy of the mod, especially the mod resistance field, this plays a huge role in getting accurate power from the power source (battery(ies)) to the 510/atomizer.

I don't like Vaporsharks. They make pretty good mods, I just don't like the 900mah (It's FullyMax, I work for FullyMax, I'm one of their design engineers, it's a good battery but it's also one of our most generic small pack lipos.) capacity, it's got a decent C rating and since the DNA is buck only you won't ever vent it through use of power alone, but you will run it dead QUICK if you vape above 30W. Also, any DNA200 can have 2A charging, it's a resistor/diode combo trick on the board. VS didn't just magically get a custom board, you can do it to any mod with a DNA board. The Lavabox has 2A charging to I believe because it comes with a 2A charging wall head. The BIG no no on the VS is the screen on the bottom. THAT'S WHERE I SIT MY MOD, I don't want my screen taking the full force of impact every time I sit it down.
to each there own..
in ten mods, I have never had any damage from sitting it on its bottom, the beveled edge keeps the screen from touching the surface that it sits on. so the screen never takes any impact or force.
 

Mikhail Naumov

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I just don't like the idea of my large Serbian ass slamming my mod down on a table when the bottom of the mod (the screen) is taking all the impact. I'm as brash and violent with my mods as I am with my words on this forum. It's a miracle I've never broken a mod. I've had shit break on me, but that's bad QC. Also, 4th magnet out of the Q. When you connect the door, you will pull it off and the magnet will either just drop or be stuck to the inner magnet. I'm done. I'm DONE. I'm tearing this apart and putting the board in my own mod, I will get back to you with results.
 

f1r3b1rd

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well, when I pay 200$ for a mod and have a 100$+ atty on it, I'm a lot more careful than I am with a beater setup.
 

Mikhail Naumov

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Here's my biggest problem with the disaster that for me has been the Q Class. Besides the garbage quality control, the 450J is just a re-purposed SX350-J V2. Same 200W as the renegade, same SX-Q software, same layout, and the literally two new features I cannot notice and believe me I have already sunk at LEAST 12 straight hours into trying to get them to. The taste control is sort of trying to give a TC effect to everything you vape and it's just annoying at times, it actually LIMITS my vape at some points. It CANNOT do a legit 200W, it can get.. eh.. within 25W then boost-pulse up for a half second at a time, but it works the HELL out of your batteries doing it unless it's bucking the voltage down to save input draw current and even then the batteries get taken for a wild ride.

They release $200 mods, then the quality control sucks.

The M class had a flaking finish, the battery screw was crap, some were DOA.

ML class, same issue with the finish, and a the ML class didn't even FUNCTION when it first came out until firmware updates saved it.

All the mods using the SX330 which has been re-purposed to hell. The first IPV4 was a JOKE that could catch on fire. Not a Yihi mod, but it's their heartbeat inside it.

Now the Q Class with it's shittily fixed magnets and torn to hell battery doors (on the inside)

What the fuck? You release a $200 mod that's supposed to compete with the DNA200, and it has maybe HALF the features of the DNA200, the software pales in comparison to Escribe and your board is just a 350-J V2 with a 4 where the 3 should be.

Yihi, seriously. What the fuck?
 

skt239

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@f1r3b1rd , I've been looks at the VT133 as well. How flimsy is that battery door, if at all? I just looked at a black one and it's pretty sweet. My local shops do not stock DNA's, other than the Wismec but the owner always has a few up there with him. I'm heading up there now for some cotton bacon so I'll ask if I can mess around with whatever he brought with him today. He always has his VS on him so I'll at least get a feel for it.
 

Mikhail Naumov

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@f1r3b1rd , I've been looks at the VT133 as well. How flimsy is that battery door, if at all? I just looked at a black one and it's pretty sweet. My local shops do not stock DNA's, other than the Wismec but the owner always has a few up there with him. I'm heading up there now for some cotton bacon so I'll ask if I can mess around with whatever he brought with him today. He always has his VS on him so I'll at least get a feel for it.

I recommend the Efusion Duo or PLAYER DNA200 mods if you want this, as they both have 3S lipos for the 200W route and dual 18650 sleds for the 133W route. VERY easy to change, just unplug, swap, plug. No screws or anything.

The VT133 door is basically an IPV4 door.
 

Wingsfan0310

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I know the SMY SDNA200 final production version has presets for nickel, 316L stainless, I think 304 stainless and then Titanium G1 as well as a 'power mode' profile with custom graphics. It also has all case internals plus mod resistance set up. Even if a mod doesn't, there's files you can download and literally just OPEN with Escribe and it loads it all on for you, then you tether the DNA to Escribe via USB and hit upload settings to device. You can run the numbers yourself (I prefer to do this, because presets and files are just mean results or results off ONE mod, every mod is a little different) for the case thermals and mod resistance as well using the case analyzer and some effort.

I highly recommend if you don't have a file to open in ES or get a mod with them preset that you do this. It can drastically improve the accuracy of the mod, especially the mod resistance field, this plays a huge role in getting accurate power from the power source (battery(ies)) to the 510/atomizer.

I don't like Vaporsharks. They make pretty good mods, I just don't like the 900mah (It's FullyMax, I work for FullyMax, I'm one of their design engineers, it's a good battery but it's also one of our most generic small pack lipos.) capacity, it's got a decent C rating and since the DNA is buck only you won't ever vent it through use of power alone, but you will run it dead QUICK if you vape above 30W. Also, any DNA200 can have 2A charging, it's a resistor/diode combo trick on the board. VS didn't just magically get a custom board, you can do it to any mod with a DNA board. The Lavabox has 2A charging too I believe because it comes with a 2A charging wall head. The BIG no no on the VS is the screen on the bottom. THAT'S WHERE I SIT MY MOD, I don't want my screen taking the full force of impact every time I sit it down.
Unfortunately, the Lavabox charges at 1 amp, also I just double checked both wall adapters that came with mine, they are 5v at 1amp. I've tried charging them with a 2amp wall adapter and they still charged at 1 amp. As to whether VS bought custom boards that charge at 2 amps. I read that was the case on Evolvs forum. They are the only company that has 2 amp charging (I'm talking about on-board DNA200).

Cheers,
Steve.
 

Mikhail Naumov

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Fuck this post, this dude is just putting VS boards in his mods and claiming lies. Ignore this, I thought like my career has taught me to and his claims make no sense. Unless you get a custom board, there will be no 2A charging on a DNA. IGNORE THIS.
 
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Wingsfan0310

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@f1r3b1rd , I've been looks at the VT133 as well. How flimsy is that battery door, if at all? I just looked at a black one and it's pretty sweet. My local shops do not stock DNA's, other than the Wismec but the owner always has a few up there with him. I'm heading up there now for some cotton bacon so I'll ask if I can mess around with whatever he brought with him today. He always has his VS on him so I'll at least get a feel for it.
I know you asked firebird but I have one and two more on the way. I love the mod, for the price it's a steal imo. As a side note, both Gearbest and FastTech carry the original Hcigar battery covers in various colors. If you check the VT133 thread you will see a few of us have ordered some (with a coupon, I paid less than $16 for 3 different colored battery doors and upgraded shipping :) ). There are links to the doors and coupon code there.

L to R Hcigar VT133, Hotcig DX200 (both using 2 x 18650 - The VT133 feels much better in hand to me)
IMG_20160515_130810_zpsoquujaye.jpg

IMG_20160515_130710_zpsvt1nmnnf.jpg


Cheers,
Steve
 

Mikhail Naumov

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Thinking as an EE, join in here Steve I don't know if you're an engineer like me but you HAVE to be in the 'field' somewhere, people just don't have your level of education on this for no reason and if that's the case, my hat is off to you, take all my damn hats.

But a resistor and a diode.. doesn't even sound like it would work. A resistor, RESISTS current, a diode is more of a semiconductor. How the hell would that even work? I actually thought about this, and now I think he's just jacking VS boards and putting them in his mods. COULD this happen? I'm running over quick MS paint schematics AND I JUST DON'T SEE HOW it could work with a DNA200 board.

It seems like you would need a positive channel mosfet, diodes are used for limiting, sure you could in theory LIMIT the board at 2 amps, but it's at a 1 amp limit, so how would you break the 1 amp limit THEN cap it with a diode/resistor at 2 amps? I'm not talking in GENERAL, just with the DNA board.
 

f1r3b1rd

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@f1r3b1rd , I've been looks at the VT133 as well. How flimsy is that battery door, if at all? I just looked at a black one and it's pretty sweet. My local shops do not stock DNA's, other than the Wismec but the owner always has a few up there with him. I'm heading up there now for some cotton bacon so I'll ask if I can mess around with whatever he brought with him today. He always has his VS on him so I'll at least get a feel for it.
I almost got the lostvape duo instead.. but at twice the price I couldn't justify it.
the door is not really flimsy...but if you make a fist with it, you an feel it slide so slightly. not off, not a deal breaker but it does shift in place ever so slightlly; and the buttons are a bit more mushy than I'm used to. I'm spoiled on tactile buttons.
at 80$ I'm impressed with the over all quality and fit and finish.
I cant justify the lost vape for 160 when this is 83$ BUT if I were between this for 140 or the lostvape for 160 than I would go lostvape.

if that makes sense.
keep in mind, I say that from already have 3 lipo pack dna mods. so the lost vape would stay in 133 mode.
 

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My favorite thing about the VT133 is that the 510 is secured with screws. The 510 is always what goes bad on my mod, usually by coming loose. If the threads are good, I'd venture to say the VT133 would last ages.
 

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Thinking as an EE, join in here Steve I don't know if you're an engineer like me but you HAVE to be in the 'field' somewhere, people just don't have your level of education on this for no reason and if that's the case, my hat is off to you, take all my damn hats.

But a resistor and a diode.. doesn't even sound like it would work. A resistor, RESISTS current, a diode is more of a semiconductor. How the hell would that even work? I actually thought about this, and now I think he's just jacking VS boards and putting them in his mods. COULD this happen? I'm running over quick MS paint schematics AND I JUST DON'T SEE HOW it could work with a DNA200 board.

It seems like you would need a positive channel mosfet, diodes are used for limiting, sure you could in theory LIMIT the board at 2 amps, but it's at a 1 amp limit, so how would you break the 1 amp limit THEN cap it with a diode/resistor at 2 amps? I'm not talking in GENERAL, just with the DNA board.
Here is a link to a thread on Evolv's forum where Nick (an admin) talks about the differences in the VS board:
http://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/...ne-7756412?highlight=vs+boards&pid=1289540049

If I remember right, there is also a thread there that has pictures illustrating the differences. If I come across it, I'll PM you the link.

Cheers,
Steve
 

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I mean the board itself is using an onboard resistor circuit of some kind to cap the charge limit. Otherwise it would charge at whatever charger you plugged in. Got a 10A charger? Blow up your battery! The board is resisting input charge current past 1A, Evolv seems to have just capped it at 2A for the VS. Seems kind of unfair, but, whatever. It needs something to make up for that piss poor 900mah battery. Sorry FullyMax, I know I answer to you and work for you, NOTHING WRONG with that battery, but it's not a good battery if you like to vape at high wattage for more than an hour and a half.

Resistors, RESIST current, it's what they do. This is why if you connect a negative channel mosfet to a switch, then leave the source to the negative where the power flows out on the end of the battery circuit from the sled, the gate which would be the switch and the drain which is basically the ground on the 510 ground ring, BUT forget to solder on a resistor, it will autofire. Because the resistor prevents the circuit from just completing itself and firing until the batteries vent or die. A diode is a semiconductor, these are used in mods for a number of things. The most popular being the zener, which is sort of an undervolt protection to keep you from sucking your cells past the point of no return. THEN, you have the virtually unknown to 99% of modders POSITIVE CHANNEL mosfet or P-fet. These have all sorts of uses, you can rig them up with ModMeters to give unregulated mods a bit of a regulated feel with information or you can use them for things like reverse polarity protection.

When you have a BOARD, mosfets, resistors and diodes are all ONBOARD, they may not look as they do in DIY unregulated shit, but they're there. Forgetting the possibly of a daughterboard, which Evolv doesn't sanction and this 'dude' in question does not use, the only explanation left is either he's at the head of the electronics field and knows something we all don't OR he's just jacking VS boards. The board limits the amount of a charge it can take, it can take UNDER 1A, but not over. The VS is just capped at 2A.

What I DON'T KNOW, as I've never looked up close at a VS board or owned one, is if the VS just caps the charge input at 2A or it's using a booster to boost the input current to 2A for the charge. This is expensive and potentially risky (charge fire alert) to use on a mod but, hell, they could do it. I know the PCB is allegedly longer on the VS so there's no telling what else has been added. I can think of at least four ways to add things to the board itself to boost the charge so I won't waste time guessing. I'm just gonna say, from an electrical engineer, even though I may not be seasoned like Mooch, I don't see any possible way to take a retail DNA200 board and boost it to 2A charge without using a DAB (Daughter Board) as an extension. That's just, expensive and then your warranty goes to shit.
 
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f1r3b1rd

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I know from my conversations with a member of the VS design team, the board they use is a proprietary evolv board, anyone can add a daughterboard and make 2a charging, the difference is, the board that vs uses, has the 2a built in so its covered by evolv; whereas a daughterboard voids the evolv warranty.
 

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This is your middle ground.

Cheap
You can buy extra lipos to charge externally
1,100mah 3S Lipo for 200W mod, dual 18650 sled for 133W mode
EASY to change the batteries
Doesn't look too bad
Compact

I present to you, from what I've seen, your IDEAL mod. It seems to be on pre-order, but if the Duo is too rich for your blood, this is a much cheaper option. Kind of has a Whiteout vibe to it.

http://vapenw.com/player-mod-dna133-dna200-by-starss

http://www.vaporrange.com/Player-133W-Oni-Edition-DNA200-TC-Box-Mod-p/player-oni-edition.htm
 
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Mikhail Naumov

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This guy isn't adding DAB's, I've seen the internals. I'm convinced he's just running a VS board he pulled out of a shark and claiming he's magic.
 

skt239

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This is your middle ground.

Cheap
You can buy extra lipos to charge externally
1,100mah 3S Lipo for 200W mod, dual 18650 sled for 133W mode
EASY to change the batteries
Doesn't look too bad
Compact

I present to you, from what I've seen, your IDEAL mod. It seems to be on pre-order, but if the Duo is too rich for your blood, this is a much cheaper option. Kind of has a Whiteout vibe to it.

http://vapenw.com/player-mod-dna133-dna200-by-starss

http://www.vaporrange.com/Player-133W-Oni-Edition-DNA200-TC-Box-Mod-p/player-oni-edition.htm

Thanks for the suggestions
 

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If you can use a soldering iron, a drill and a tap and POSSIBLY (optional) a dremel, I recommend you go DIY. Get a DNA200/SX350J-V2 and then either get some wood cut, a CNC box or a 3D printed box and go to town. Shapeways even has 3D printed boxes. I recommend just getting a board mount, a $60 board off the Protovapor sale, an AlpineTech DNA200 Type 1 box, a Fat Daddy or Varitube 510, some copper wire, a bit of solder, an iron, a drill/tap and then just MAKE the mod. The buttons on the type one are cutouts that hover over the board. Take your lipo or 18650 sled, solder it onto the board + and - (if it's a sled be sure to properly bridge your connections), then solder the + out to the 510 pin and the - ground to the 510 ground ring. Mount the board, insert the buttons, boom. You've made your own DNA200. This is the easy way, if you get a dremel you can cut your own screen square and USB square, drill holes for buttons then mount the board with ANY mount, even by making your own, then drill the 510 hole. Get some magnets, go to town.

I have a 6,200mah 25C 3S lipo powered DNA I made with a 510 pin that's solid silver plated with 18K gold, the 510 threads have been hardened through a chemical process, the wiring is all stranded 100% silver with silicon insulation, Mitec authentic switch wired to the board, the wattage buttons are CNC cutouts floating over the board buttons, magnetic door, CNC box with a powder coat and laser engraving, 28.5mm 510 that sits flush with the top of the box and there's nearly 40mm of clearance on the top so forget handover, the 510 is also centered. It's handheld, I can fit it into one hand. Not pocket friendly, but. I can go for 2-3 days at chain vaping high wattage without a worry. THIS is what you can have if you go DIY, same with the 350J-V2 and maybe 450J if we ever see the board itself be released.
 

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I see so if I do go the VS route I guess I'll keep a skin on it...

So think I've decided on a DNA200. One of the main reasons I'm leaning towards the VS is the pre loaded settings. We don't have a PC at home, everything is Mac. I could always use a friends or one at my mom and dads house but that could be a pain. So, other than the VS and the SMY (which I don't want) are there any other DNA's that come with settings pre-loaded? Thanks for helping me out here guys, I really appreciate it.
You can always use a Virtual Machine on your Mac to utilize Escribe, things like Parallels or even use Bootcamp to load windows natively when needed.

http://www.howtogeek.com/187359/5-ways-to-run-windows-software-on-a-mac/
 

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Yeah, OS emulation like WINE for Linux has always been the work-around.
 

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I completely forgot about that. I'll do it on the wife's MacBook, I don't want that on mine :)
It is totally harmless, you can only use/load it when needed to configure your mod, it will not harm your Mac in any way.
 

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Wise choice BTW going with a DNA200 at that price level and i think you will love Escribe once you get the hang of it, it is not really that hard, and you already have all the vaping-related knowledge to work it, concepts like voltage, TCR, batteries, Resistance, Ohm's Law, etc ... so it will just be a matter of getting used to the interface, as you already know all the concepts involved pretty well.
 

skt239

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Hello Friends,

So I had a chance to mess around with a couple different DNA mods at the local shop. I emailed him last night asking if he could bring in some of his DNA's so I can check them out. Even though they don't stock them, he was happy help. Here's what I got to mess around with..

Reuleaux DNA 200 - I already own a RX200 and as most of you know aside from the chip and color scheme, It's practically the same mod. Not counting the chip, the DNA has two special features. On his mod, if he sets in down a bit firmly that battery comes loose and the Mod shuts down. The other feature. Pass. Next?

VT200 - Felt great in my hand, nice 510 and worked great in SS TC mode.

VT133 - Hated the battery door, otherwise worked perfectly like the VT200

Efusion Duo - This one I did not like at all. It's just as accurate and powerful as the aforementioned DNA's but I just didn't like the feel of it. Also, those glued on panels didn't seem to fit the price point. Pass. Next?

VS DNA 200 - This was easily my favorite. Feels amazing in my hand, super light weight, and dead nuts accurate in TC. The best part was his demonstration was the charging. I couldn't believe how quickly it went from 30% to 100%. I don't know how long it actually took but it easily under an hour, maybe around 30-40 min. The buttons are great and I love having the screen on the bottom for some reason I've always like the look of a screen on the bottom or top.

He's getting his SX Q Class sometime next week so i should be able to mess with that one as well. I think I'll probably end up getting the VS. However, between now and fathers day there will probably be 5 new DNA's thrown into the mix.
 

f1r3b1rd

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Hello Friends,

So I had a chance to mess around with a couple different DNA mods at the local shop. I emailed him last night asking if he could bring in some of his DNA's so I can check them out. Even though they don't stock them, he was happy help. Here's what I got to mess around with..

Reuleaux DNA 200 - I already own a RX200 and as most of you know aside from the chip and color scheme, It's practically the same mod. Not counting the chip, the DNA has two special features. On his mod, if he sets in down a bit firmly that battery comes loose and the Mod shuts down. The other feature. Pass. Next?

VT200 - Felt great in my hand, nice 510 and worked great in SS TC mode.

VT133 - Hated the battery door, otherwise worked perfectly like the VT200

Efusion Duo - This one I did not like at all. It's just as accurate and powerful as the aforementioned DNA's but I just didn't like the feel of it. Also, those glued on panels didn't seem to fit the price point. Pass. Next?

VS DNA 200 - This was easily my favorite. Feels amazing in my hand, super light weight, and dead nuts accurate in TC. The best part was his demonstration was the charging. I couldn't believe how quickly it went from 30% to 100%. I don't know how long it actually took but it easily under an hour, maybe around 30-40 min. The buttons are great and I love having the screen on the bottom for some reason I've always like the look of a screen on the bottom or top.

He's getting his SX Q Class sometime next week so i should be able to mess with that one as well. I think I'll probably end up getting the VS. However, between now and fathers day there will probably be 5 new DNA's thrown into the mix.
hahaha gad you were impressed with the vs man, that charge rate is insane, mine rarely drops below 40% and it will top off in 35minutes from there. I get 5-6 hours at my vaping pace around 50w. once I get above 60, the run time is noticibly decreased. Being that I work in an office I just plug it and make sure I'm topped off when I leave work, then I'm good to go till after dinner. The form factor is addicting! I love that it slides in my sirt pocket and disappears.
I do keep an external 2.4a backup charger in my bag, but in my defense I have always had one for my phone anyway.
if you vape much higher than 60w on the regular than the 900mah lipos would probably become a hassle though. - just something to think about.
- not trying to dissuade you, I'm a self confessed sharkfan, but, I like seing my friends get the mods that are best suited for them.
 

skt239

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hahaha gad you were impressed with the vs man, that charge rate is insane, mine rarely drops below 40% and it will top off in 35minutes from there. I get 5-6 hours at my vaping pace around 50w. once I get above 60, the run time is noticibly decreased. Being that I work in an office I just plug it and make sure I'm topped off when I leave work, then I'm good to go till after dinner. The form factor is addicting! I love that it slides in my sirt pocket and disappears.
I do keep an external 2.4a backup charger in my bag, but in my defense I have always had one for my phone anyway.
if you vape much higher than 60w on the regular than the 900mah lipos would probably become a hassle though. - just something to think about.
- not trying to dissuade you, I'm a self confessed sharkfan, but, I like seing my friends get the mods that are best suited for them.

I appreciate the guidance.... I normally vape between 60-80 watts in power mode and 60w 500 degrees in temp control. However, when I tested out the VS in the shop I found that I could run the temp at around 480, 50 watts and get the same or better performance than I do with my go to TC mod, the IPV5. I have small 2 amp charger that I always keep on me as well. Also, if I'm out for the day I rarely only have one mod with me. My Snow Wolf 1.5 and mini volt go everywhere with me so I usually have a back up.

Oh I forgot to add, he also had a panzer up there but I only held it in my hand for a second and then handed it back. I didn't like the feel of it and can't stand centered 510's.
 

f1r3b1rd

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I appreciate the guidance.... I normally vape between 60-80 watts in power mode and 60w 500 degrees in temp control. However, when I tested out the VS in the shop I found that I could run the temp at around 480, 50 watts and get the same or better performance than I do with my go to TC mod, the IPV5. I have small 2 amp charger that I always keep on me as well. Also, if I'm out for the day I rarely only have one mod with me. My Snow Wolf 1.5 and mini volt go everywhere with me so I usually have a back up.

Oh I forgot to add, he also had a panzer up there but I only held it in my hand for a second and then handed it back. I didn't like the feel of it and can't stand centered 510's.
what you're seeing are more less the increased accuracy of the dna board, with a mod that is already setup properly out of the box.
If I take the m class and my dna with the my regular 24g microcoils in the petri rda.
I set 53w and 520 degrees on the m class
the same exact rda with the same build on te vsnda
i set at 45w/490 degrees with a 55w preheat.

and tha preheat is where you will notice the best difference in vape, but also a large portion of battery loss.
my favorite vape on it is my a fused Clapton SS - dual core 26g wrapped with 32g

i do 4/5 wraps at 3mm ID, for a 0.17 ohm buil
fired at 65w. 500 degrees, 80w preheat with a 10punch

i get about 4 hours that way per charge down to 40% then top off
 

skt239

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what you're seeing are more less the increased accuracy of the dna board, with a mod that is already setup properly out of the box.
If I take the m class and my dna with the my regular 24g microcoils in the petri rda.
I set 53w and 520 degrees on the m class
the same exact rda with the same build on te vsnda
i set at 45w/490 degrees with a 55w preheat.

and tha preheat is where you will notice the best difference in vape, but also a large portion of battery loss.
my favorite vape on it is my a fused Clapton SS - dual core 26g wrapped with 32g

i do 4/5 wraps at 3mm ID, for a 0.17 ohm buil
fired at 65w. 500 degrees, 80w preheat with a 10punch

i get about 4 hours that way per charge down to 40% then top off

What is the "10 punch"?
 

eggymaniac

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What is the "10 punch"?

On temp control wire you can set the "punch" factor from 1 to 11 and the watts by which it "punches." At level 1 it will use the punch watts immediately at that level and cut off the punch-I believe 160 degrees from your temperature, ranging up to 11 which it lets loose at I believe 10 degrees from your set temperature. It then continues as normal.
 

skt239

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On temp control wire you can set the "punch" factor from 1 to 11 and the watts by which it "punches." At level 1 it will use the punch watts immediately at that level and cut off the punch-I believe 160 degrees from your temperature, ranging up to 11 which it lets loose at I believe 10 degrees from your set temperature. It then continues as normal.

Thanks for clearing that up.

I have come to the decision that its going to be a DNA. The Q class looks great but it's too similar to my IPV5 and I want something new. I'll still do some research but I'm pretty sure I'm going with the Vaporshark. In fact, I've already ordered a silicone sleeve and trained my daughter to tell my mom that "daddy wants a shark vape" any time she mentions fathers day. Also, I'm getting a new laptop from work and I requested a PC. I still have my Mac that I will use daily and the work laptop will be for escribe (shhh don't tell the IT dweeb). Now I have to wait until fathers day which is already agonizing. I'm still open to any suggestions or comments and thanks to everyone who chimed in.
 

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