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VV/VW
- Thread starter Tank63
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I could if I dripped. I don't like to run my mods at max output anyway.
IMO, it is un-necessary stress on the board and wiring.
All depends on the build. Lower ohm resistance needs more wattage.
Could do a high gauge (like 28) build with 4+ coils to get a low ohm resistance overall and would need a high watt output simply due to the amount of wire to heat up. Same with using a single/dual coil made out of with 20 gauge to get just as low resistance.
I think the bottom line is flexibility.
State O' Flux
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The greatest advantage VW regulated APVs have over unregulated mech mods is that you can choose to "force" wattage to an atomizer... or provide wattage to builds that might tax a conventional unregulated mod.
If you've built a 0.14Ω atomizer, you've maxed out the safe maximum continuous current discharge (MCCD) rate of an 18650 30a battery. Yes, the momentary current rate may support a lower resistance, as long as time parameters are in an acceptable range.
With a, oh... 300 watt APV, you can "force feed" another 174 watts and 16 more amps into that same 0.14Ω atomizer.
Now, if you think I'm nuts... consider what we might need for the quad parallel build that member @zaroba has eluded to: If we build it using 22 gauge wire at 0.14Ω, we actually need 300 watts to produce a nicely warm heat flux of 295 mW/mm2.
If you've an interest in heat flux and other variables, click my first and second siglines below.
If you've built a 0.14Ω atomizer, you've maxed out the safe maximum continuous current discharge (MCCD) rate of an 18650 30a battery. Yes, the momentary current rate may support a lower resistance, as long as time parameters are in an acceptable range.
With a, oh... 300 watt APV, you can "force feed" another 174 watts and 16 more amps into that same 0.14Ω atomizer.
Now, if you think I'm nuts... consider what we might need for the quad parallel build that member @zaroba has eluded to: If we build it using 22 gauge wire at 0.14Ω, we actually need 300 watts to produce a nicely warm heat flux of 295 mW/mm2.
If you've an interest in heat flux and other variables, click my first and second siglines below.
vaperature
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I'm actually starting to buy some mech mods now because they are going out of style and thus are hilariously inexpensive. Just got a Smok Tech telescopic mod from myfreedomsmokes for eleven bucks marked down from $43. But yeah, vv is definitely the way to go and I have three of them. There are so many factors in vaping, pg/vg ratios, ohms, wick materials, that require adjustments that a steady 3.7v isn't going to give.
Tank63
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I have a Kayfun V4, an Atlantis and a dripper. Don't think I need more than 50W though. Have to do research on what will benefit me, I guess.
Tank63
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Dang! I think I might need a college degree to understand all that, Lmao!! That's some hella advice! Sounds like you have it down
State O' Flux
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Well... I did write the Steam Engine advanced user guide, with an enthusiastic endorsement by the program creator... so yeah, I kinda have it sorted out.Dang! I think I might need a college degree to understand all that, Lmao!! That's some hella advice! Sounds like you have it down
Most only look at net resistance and wrap count - the most basic of variables - and call it good. There are a substantial number that don't even understand that the only things that determine resistance are wire length, tension and gauge - thinking instead that wrap count and coil ID (somehow) enter in to it.
If your interest extends beyond the simple... then you bone up on your Ohm's law formulas and IMR battery knowledge.
If you really want total control over your vape... you work to improve your knowledge of how wire gauge, wire length, net resistance, parallel coil count and output wattage affect the critical variables of heat flux (HF), heat capacity (HC)... and leg power loss percentage (PL).
If you click on all three of my siglines... everything I've mentioned is explained in good detail, or links to accurate articles are provided... and of course, the most used and respected vapist's calculator on the interweb.
I don't expect anyone to read all this and be techno-vape geniuses overnight... but it sure as hell might clear up a lot of gaps and misinformation in your education.
You don't have to use all 150w, you can set it to whatever tickles your fancy and you'll still get the battery life of 2 batteries.
Tank63
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I knew that, I just didn't see spending the extra money on something I don't need. I think 50W will be plenty for me.
You assume there's a direct relationship between dollars and watts. There isn't: powerful mods are a dime a dozen these days, and you can find easily 150W devices that are cheaper than 50W devices. The price really depends on other criteria - usually rarity of certain features, build quality, and Chinese / non-Chinese.
For example, until very recently, temperature control was an exclusive option (i.e. Evolv DNA40) but that's changing fast, and the price of mods sporting this feature will drop soon. Likewise, high-power devices used to be rare and expensive (i.e. Grand Innovation Gi2) but that has changed a long time ago.
Tank63
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Well, I don't "assume" anything. I know by shopping around, and I haven't seen a 150W VV/VW box mod cheaper than a 50W. Now, maybe an unregulated box mod, but not regulated. Even at fastech they cost more than the 50W. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong places? Vapor Joes, the same thing. It seems the higher the wattage, the higher the price.
Well, I suppose it depends on what devices you compare. In the same range, a quick googling reveals that both the IPV2 and the IPV3 sell roughly at the same price, between $80 and $90 retail. In different ranges, the DNA40 Vaporflask sells at $300 for instance. But people who spring for a VF aren't necessarily the same people who go for an IPV2, so it's like comparing apples and oranges
hahahah nice
I have an IPV mini 2 (.2ohm min / 70W max) that will be in my hands later today. After I tinker and compare you can expect more input from me.
But based on what I've read, I would say to check out the mini v2. For the price you really cant beat it if you want vv/vw and solid sub ohm capabilities. Yes, it's only one 18650 but if you have a decent charger and some batteries to spare you won't be left dead in the water.
I'm expecting this little mod to become my all day vape simply because its so versitile. I have an eVic Supreme and though I love it, it just isn't made for what I want to do with it. Hopefully the mini2 can change that eh?
But based on what I've read, I would say to check out the mini v2. For the price you really cant beat it if you want vv/vw and solid sub ohm capabilities. Yes, it's only one 18650 but if you have a decent charger and some batteries to spare you won't be left dead in the water.
I'm expecting this little mod to become my all day vape simply because its so versitile. I have an eVic Supreme and though I love it, it just isn't made for what I want to do with it. Hopefully the mini2 can change that eh?
Arnie H
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Pros:
Versatiliy, ability to change power without relying on doing so using coil resistance alone or a kick.
Built in protection circuit, battery and Ohm meter and other nifty tools.
Cons:
Generally doesn't stand up too well when submerged in water.
Not as durable as a piece of metal tubing, potential for more things to fail, go wrong (circuit board, screen, etc.)
Tank63
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Can they be rebuilt? As far as new screen, buttons, etc?
mike-c
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I know it's been explained several times before, but here is my take in lumens terms.
An unregulated mod is like a naturally aspirated engine in a hot rod. Now take that same engine and put nitrous and a super charger on that engine. That is the difference between unregulated and regulated mods. Now there are variables that still matter. The bigger the wire on a given resistance the more watts and amps to reach temp. The thinner the wire the less watts and amps, but more watts.
It could also be thought of as a car stereo system. If you got two 1000 watt speakers you wouldn't get the thump out of a 500 watt amp that you would with two 200 watt subs out of the same amp.
An unregulated mod is like a naturally aspirated engine in a hot rod. Now take that same engine and put nitrous and a super charger on that engine. That is the difference between unregulated and regulated mods. Now there are variables that still matter. The bigger the wire on a given resistance the more watts and amps to reach temp. The thinner the wire the less watts and amps, but more watts.
It could also be thought of as a car stereo system. If you got two 1000 watt speakers you wouldn't get the thump out of a 500 watt amp that you would with two 200 watt subs out of the same amp.
After a day of vaping with this IPV mini 2 I already know that I won't be needing anything else. So unless you're an E.E. who's tinkering or want to vape at like 100GW I highly recommend purchasing this device.
My experience so far with the mini 2 has been with a sub tank and a sub tank mini both in RDA mode and using the manufactured coils, along with an Aspire Atlantis and various builds on some random 510 RDAs (.4, .5, .8, 1.2 ohm)
I was able to find a sweet spot for each build without a hiccup in between. I did decide to take apart the spring loaded/adjustable center pin assy and noticed the insulator is very brittle - I would advise against taking it all the way apart unless you're prepared to find another insulator with similiar dimensions.
I'm new to this forum and dont know if I'm allowed to post direct links for things like this but my vendor was solid, 60 bucks plus some fresh batts and I'm more satisfied than the ~150 I spent on the eVic. Let me know if you could use the link or any other information (batteries, limitations/bonuses of the sub tanks vs. the Atlantis)
My experience so far with the mini 2 has been with a sub tank and a sub tank mini both in RDA mode and using the manufactured coils, along with an Aspire Atlantis and various builds on some random 510 RDAs (.4, .5, .8, 1.2 ohm)
I was able to find a sweet spot for each build without a hiccup in between. I did decide to take apart the spring loaded/adjustable center pin assy and noticed the insulator is very brittle - I would advise against taking it all the way apart unless you're prepared to find another insulator with similiar dimensions.
I'm new to this forum and dont know if I'm allowed to post direct links for things like this but my vendor was solid, 60 bucks plus some fresh batts and I'm more satisfied than the ~150 I spent on the eVic. Let me know if you could use the link or any other information (batteries, limitations/bonuses of the sub tanks vs. the Atlantis)
Tank63
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Great way to put it!
Tank63
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You can post whatever you want to. Everyone on VU does it
30 watts will support .4 ohm...what ohm coils are you currently using?
Most will recommend more power than you feel you need as this apparently gives longer battery life as well as not being so taxing on the devices electronics itself...Pushing a limit full time would seem seem the device wouldnt last very long.
ive personally have not used more than 10 watts of my mvp 20 watt i just got but i dont see myself needing more than that for what i use on it. 1.8 ohm and up clearomizer tanks.
If youre coming off a mod then i can only assume you are used to more power and a bigger vape so you will want a bit of power to support your subohm experience...30w can support .4 ohm depending on thickness of coil gauge....so may need a bit more power to work a .3 .2 ohm and not over work the device again if you use a really thick coil gauge...so 100 watts sounds about right if you are wanting to subohm that low and not worry about your electronics or battery life...Triple coils and super twisties chain link fence coils will want even more power despite the ohms...1.8 ohm with a 30g wire takes less power to fire than 1.8 with 26g wire.
Most will recommend more power than you feel you need as this apparently gives longer battery life as well as not being so taxing on the devices electronics itself...Pushing a limit full time would seem seem the device wouldnt last very long.
ive personally have not used more than 10 watts of my mvp 20 watt i just got but i dont see myself needing more than that for what i use on it. 1.8 ohm and up clearomizer tanks.
If youre coming off a mod then i can only assume you are used to more power and a bigger vape so you will want a bit of power to support your subohm experience...30w can support .4 ohm depending on thickness of coil gauge....so may need a bit more power to work a .3 .2 ohm and not over work the device again if you use a really thick coil gauge...so 100 watts sounds about right if you are wanting to subohm that low and not worry about your electronics or battery life...Triple coils and super twisties chain link fence coils will want even more power despite the ohms...1.8 ohm with a 30g wire takes less power to fire than 1.8 with 26g wire.
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Sweet so http://www.myvaporstore.com is where I went. Sadly I was wrong it's 63.49 or somethin close to that but I didn't see better prices (or even stock for that matter) anywhere else. The batts were a lil pricier there though
Arnie H
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Perhaps by those technically inclined, but I am not one of those people. A friend had a Tesla that ended up in the toilet bowl somehow. That was pretty much the end for that mod. But they do now have waterproof regulated mods, I think Dovpo or someone makes one. A mechanical mod when submerged in water, depending upon the metals used, pretty much just needs to be dried out. Not sure about the battery inside though. Any moving parts (mostly the switch for our puposes) are the obvious weakness of any metal device. The tube itself will probably be around long after the owner has passed away.
Tank63
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Ok....Cloupor went back! NOT very happy! Just stopped working. They fixed it but stopped working again. No more Cloupor for me! Thinking maybe Hana Modz, but not sure. Guess I will shop around a while Just might take some advice given here and look at the IPV Mini!
Just might take some advice given here and look at the IPV Mini!
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I havent had any issues with the mini yet, though I would recommend a good charger and a few good 30-35A batteries if you plan to use it at or around its upper limits (pushing 50 to 70 watts) all day.
My only gripe is how fast the finish wears off the buttons. I dont care myself, as I may end up trying to waterproof this thing with some type of silicone.
My only gripe is how fast the finish wears off the buttons. I dont care myself, as I may end up trying to waterproof this thing with some type of silicone.
Moral of the story is to steer clear of Cloupor products. Even if the T8 does work, it wont fire higher than ~70w. Some guy tried it out with all different resistances and 70w was the max.
Personally i could not be any happier with my 150w Sigelei.
Personally i could not be any happier with my 150w Sigelei.
Unnecessary stress on your body as well. I saw a guy walk into a shop and chill... Vaped at 90w on an atty from an ipv3 ... Then he went to the bathroom for a while and came out pale. Said he had to go and swerved his way out of the lot on his Harley .
I run my ipv3 at 43w sometimes... But rarely do I notice the dfrnc btwn that and 32 or 33w... But I only drop to .5 or maybe .3 if I'm feelin dangerous
in response to the Harley dude and getting rocked.. Its all about nic content and/or PG/VG sensitivty. Personally, I drip around 50W all day long (@ 4mg/mL), whereas my Subtank fires and flows well round 25W (@ 6mg/mL because im getting slightly less vapor compared to dripping)
Everyone has their own sweet spot when it comes to nic concentration, but it's definitely a good idea not to try and drip any juice you've been hitting through a Protank or whatever - which seems like the case with the Harley guy ODing.
I have friends who will roast some juices around 100W but they sure as hell make sure the nic concentration is low or nonexistent before breathing clouds that'll make you shit yourself with the spins
Everyone has their own sweet spot when it comes to nic concentration, but it's definitely a good idea not to try and drip any juice you've been hitting through a Protank or whatever - which seems like the case with the Harley guy ODing.
I have friends who will roast some juices around 100W but they sure as hell make sure the nic concentration is low or nonexistent before breathing clouds that'll make you shit yourself with the spins