what Amp rating?

[tommyboy01]

I'm new to replaceable battery mods and I'm trying to figure out what is most important when considering batteries to buy.
If I'm vaping high watts and low ohms, isn't amperage most important? In reviewing batteries the ones with the best reviews are cells rated at 20 amp output... is a 20amp cell enough?
Any and all feedback is appreciated

 

[DED420]

It depends on the mod and the build. For the sake of argument in this explanation, we're gonna assume a single cell Mech Mod. A 20A CDR cell can handle a build down to 0.2 ohms safely, whereas a 30A CDR can handle down to 0.15 ohms safely. Ohms Law is in play here, so the build has to be regulated to the battery. Regulated Mods essentially manage themselves, and won't really allow you to over-stress your batteries, If a build is too low, it won't fire, and if the batteries can't handle the load, the mod shouldn't fire either.
In general, most people are more than happy with 20A CDR (which are the standard) for their regulated mods, because on average, most people don't push their mods past 120W, but more advanced builders/mech users like 30A CDR cells for the added headway they give you (at the cost of battery longevity).

These are the go-to cells for vapers, so take a look at them, read up on the specs and performance, and make an informed decision based on what you're gonna need from them (higher Mah/higher Amp)

Sony: VTC4 (Green) / VTC5 (Green)

LG: HE4 (Yellow) / HE2 (Red) / HG2 (Brown) / HB4 (Brown) / HB2 (Green)

Samsung: 25R (Blue) / 25R5 (Green)

Hopefully that helps you a bit

 

[Neunerball]

CDR = Continuous Discharge Rate

 

[raymo2u]

It depends on the mod and the build. For the sake of argument in this explanation, we're gonna assume a single cell Mech Mod. A 20A CDR cell can handle a build down to 0.2 ohms safely, whereas a 30A CDR can handle down to 0.15 ohms safely. Ohms Law is in play here, so the build has to be regulated to the battery. Regulated Mods essentially manage themselves, and won't really allow you to over-stress your batteries, If a build is too low, it won't fire, and if the batteries can't handle the load, the mod shouldn't fire either.
In general, most people are more than happy with 20A CDR (which are the standard) for their regulated mods, because on average, most people don't push their mods past 120W, but more advanced builders/mech users like 30A CDR cells for the added headway they give you (at the cost of battery longevity).

These are the go-to cells for vapers, so take a look at them, read up on the specs and performance, and make an informed decision based on what you're gonna need from them (higher Mah/higher Amp)

Sony: VTC4 (Green) / VTC5 (Green)

LG: HE4 (Yellow) / HE2 (Red) / HG2 (Brown) / HB4 (Brown) / HB2 (Green)

Samsung: 25R (Blue) / 25R5 (Green)

Hopefully that helps you a bit

The Blue 25r's are 25R2's


@tommyboy01 , Here's a chart worth looking over, save a copy if you want and view it when needed. It gives the Manufacturers spec as well as real world data tests on performance of most 18650 Cells on the Market.

 

[tommyboy01]

Thanks for the feedback! Quite helpful.
For the record, it's a Kanger Kbox 200 and yes I don't quite see myself ever needing more than 120w. Probably be vaping at lowest, the prefab .2ohm coils (not big on building any lower). So being a regulated mod 20 amp should be sufficient.
Unfortunately I fell into the Efest purple hype. Sunk enough into 2 sets of the 2500 Mah 35A. Not sure how well they'll fare, but it was only later that I researched batteries and found a consensus on LG, Sony, and Samsung.

 

[DED420]

That setup should be perfectly fine to use. The Efests are 20A, so a 0.2 ohm build isn't going to strain them too hard, I have a pair of them in my ABS box mod, and they hold up great at 0.2ohm (that's the lowest I'm willing to build on these batteries though). But I would still recommend getting some new batteries as soon as you can, just for your own safety and ease of mind.

 

[NemesisVaper]

In a regulated device, only the wattage you have set, and the charge level of the batteries matter for amp draw. On. Most mods the only way to get cell voltage is to take em out and use a multi meter or put em in a charger that shows cell voltage.

To work out your rough amp draw, you need to know if the cells are in parallel or series if the mod uses more than one cell.

If you work out the worst case amp draw at the wattage you Vape at, you'll stay safe throughout the charge of the batteries. Most mods cut off at 3.2V per cell. At this low voltage is where the most amps will be drawn in a regulated device. If the cells are in series, then times 3.2V by the number of cells, and do the calculation below:

Wattage vaping at ÷ minimum cell voltage.

For example, in my Sigelei 100W, it's two cells in series. I'm vaping on my Sapor RDA at 78W. If my cells were nearly dead, I'd calculate my amp draw like this:

78W÷6.4V = 12.2A

Mooch has a section in his blog, where he explains it much better than me. For some reason, on my phone, this forums reply box would t let me paste stuff. If you type "mooch battery blog ecf" into Google, it'll come up. It's a long blog but it's full of amazingly well written information.