• WELCOME TO VAPING UNDERGROUND 2.0

    EXPECT ISSUES FOR THE NEXT FEW DAYS

    PLEASE POST ANY ISSUES TO OUR ON GOING THREAD --HERE--

What wire delivers the best flavor ??

Hype

Member For 3 Years
I have been building my own coils for a few years now with different attys and Rtas and so on . So now that all kind of different wire types are available all over the place and everyone and their mom making claims that their wire is the best out there , I feel i am in need of some guidance . low resistance , high resistance , do not matter here , it is all about the flavor and the type of wire . Thank you all for your time ...Mods , please feel free to move this if it's in the wrong place , sorry ...
 
Last edited:

jwill

The Great King of Nothing
VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 2 Years
VU Challenge Team
Reddit Exile
VU SWAT
Im mostly a mech user and may be the outlier because I like Ni80 on a mech and Kanthal on a regulated mod. SS adds a weird metal'ish taste to me.
 

SteveS45

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
Whatever wire you wind correctly to suit your vaping needs will work for you. Doesn't matter what someone else does because I can do the exact opposite and achieve what I am seeking. Just my opinion
 
Last edited:

St.Roostifer

Gold Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Agree with Steve. Best thing to do is get different types of wire and find out for yourself what you like best. Once you do that you can start building more complex coils with your preferred wire type.

Another thing is don't get caught up in the resistance game. Great flavor can be achieved with low or high resistances. It just depends on how you build your coils. I usually vape around .8-.9 with my single coil builds anywhere from the low to high 40w range but I also made sure my mods and batteries can deliver the 6+ volts needed to heat the coil properly and safely.
 

Carambrda

Gold Contributor
Member For 3 Years
ECF Refugee
Nichrome 80 for me. I use only the highest quality premium version of it that is smelted by Sandvik in Sweden, and, my go to coil build that I use daily is a dual coil .11 ohms tri-core aliens build using 27g/36g on a single Samsung 20S battery in a tube mech. Some juices typically need a warmer vape for the flavor to come out, so for those I often tend to use a series mech to add that extra warmth. But my Surric Vapes X-Vault (unregulated PWM mod with a potentiometer) comes really very close to the mech in terms of the vape experience, and it gives the benefit of being able to adjust the power level in situations where the ohms aren't suitable for the mech (i.e. the vape is too weak on a single battery mech, too hot on a series mech), like this:

stapled helix.jpg
 

KingPin!

In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^
VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 3 Years
VU Challenge Team
Reviewer
I remember asking this exact same question ages ago Hype the outcome was broadly the same as I’m reading here in that there is no single best to suit everyone as Steve and St Roostifer alluded to

Different attys like different builds and wire choice is a personal preference thing, some can taste flavour differences between metals others can’t, and some can’t tolerate certain metals at all

Personally I like N80 for bakery flavours use it mainly in the outer wrap though. I find it melds flavours together well

SS316 i use for TC only, in wattage mode it tastes metallic to me ...I like it with fruity flavours as it doesn’t seem to interfere with them and I can pick out the fruits better

Kanthal is a jack of trades to me doesnt shine in one or the other but it’s great for core wire to keep resistance up if you haven’t started building with really thin gauge wire for complex builds.... so on mechs I mix and match kanthal core and N80 or 316 wrap depending on what I’m doing

Best bet it to experiment and don’t worry if you mix wire types too much unless you are hunting for a good Temp control vape
 
Last edited:

Hype

Member For 3 Years
Thank you Kingpin ! you are correct in that there is no magic pill when it comes to the art of coils . I am just curious when it comes to what others do for flavor and such . I'm mesmerized by coil builders and their art , and really don't mind trying new ideas or recommendations from people that are open minded . Thank you all , thank you very much ...
 
I hope you checked out Advanced Vape Supply and I am very glad you found this helpful. On a side not i just bought a spool of premade framed staple wire from AVS. Ive been running it single coil and it gives a nice warm flavorful vape. I cant imagine what dual coil is like. Anyways take care Hype and id love to know what you find what works for you because I am forever flavor chasing.
 

Droogbc

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I'm gonna say that I prefer ni80. Originally went kanthal, then briefly to nickel, then to Titanium, then to stainless. Was loving stainless until a local shop wound me up some fused ni80 claptons. From that day forward I ditched TC and have been putting ni80 claptons into everything.
 

Raymcconn

Silver Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
I like 316L, I bought some NI80 claptons last week. Lately that seems like the flavor of the week around the boards. So I decided to give it a try. To be honest for me I cant tell a difference between NI80 and the SS.
 

Hype

Member For 3 Years
I hope you checked out Advanced Vape Supply and I am very glad you found this helpful. On a side not i just bought a spool of premade framed staple wire from AVS. Ive been running it single coil and it gives a nice warm flavorful vape. I cant imagine what dual coil is like. Anyways take care Hype and id love to know what you find what works for you because I am forever flavor chasing.
Thank you very much . So far Ni80 has been kicking it for me . But I have found that sweet spotting most coils is truly what has delivered flavorful , warm vaping experiences .Some coils last longer , others not so much . My highest wattage is 65 but I am open to all suggestions . Thank you all for your time and patience with this thread .
 

Hoggy

Member For 3 Years
As for my opinion, I think you adapt - and especially after the coil gets broken in, it doesn't matter so much. But I'm not fortunate enough to be a super-taster, so YMMV. The thicker wire gauges seem to last longer, pretty much indefinitely IMO - especially for kanthal or SS 24 & 22 gauges.

When using a regulated mod, I just can't understand why some people say they like low/high resistance. To me, it just doesn't matter one bit what the resistance ends up being. As long as it's within the mods' ranges, its all the same.
 
Last edited:

Chainvapor

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
I build my own fused clapton wire and find Ni80 and 316 SS to be my favorite wires. Because I like Mechanical Mods I usually build all Stainless Steel Fused claptons with 26ga cores and 38ga wrap. 3mm ID with 5 wraps gets me right around the 0.2ohm mark on each coil which is 0.10 ohms on a dual. Perfect for a nice warm vape on a RDA with my 21700 mech mods. Stainless is also a good option if you want to use the Replay mode on any of the new DNA 250C or 75C devices. To me it is the best all around wire to use. YMMV.

Happy Vaping!
CV :)
 

Carambrda

Gold Contributor
Member For 3 Years
ECF Refugee
As for my opinion, I think you adapt - and especially after the coil gets broken in, it doesn't matter so much. But I'm not fortunate enough to be a super-taster, so YMMV. The thicker wire gauges seem to last longer, pretty much indefinitely IMO - especially for kanthal or SS 24 & 22 gauges.

When using a regulated mod, I just can't understand why some people say they like low/high resistance. To me, it just doesn't matter one bit what the resistance ends up being. As long as it's within the mods' ranges, its all the same.
Some regulated mods can fire coil builds that are below 0.1 ohm, like, for example, DNA mods usually can, but on a DNA mod typically you'll find that the farther you go below 0.1 ohm the lower the maximum power that the mod is capable to deliver will be. It doesn't harm the mod or anything, as a regulated mod is designed to work reliably within the range that it's been designed to work in, or at least it should be, but the efficiency of the board inside the mod and the battery life resulting from that might be a little disappointing if you build your coil builds to such low resistances. Similarly, if the resistance is a bit higher than the range that is the recommended range for the regulated mod you're using the coil build on, then normally what will happen is the power output will gradually start to be throttled back by the mod way sooner than you might actually prefer, like, maybe it will start to happen when the batteries have gone down to 3.8 volts or 3.7 volts, instead of only after they've gone down to, say, 3.5 volts or 3.4 volts.

Especially if you are a high wattage vaper, vaping the batteries all the way down to 3.2 volts is something that tends to be not feasible because the "weak battery" message will appear so much earlier than that, but... in addition to that, the performance of the chip inside a regulated mod can also be held back by how the batteries themselves respond each time when you press the fire button so in fact the flavor and feel of the vape can also be ruined by choosing the wrong mod or the wrong batteries, or both, for what coils you had in mind. So much so, at the time when I moved from my Wismec Reuleaux RX2/3 with three Sony VTC5A batteries to my RX300 with four of these same batteries, I immediately noticed an incredible huge boost in the flavor performance I was getting from my coil build despite I was only vaping it at 140 watts and despite the RX2/3 using three batteries (and Firmware V4.13) is actually a 250 watts mod so I can't exactly blame the incredible huge difference on that. So the resistance can, and does, affect the performance as it affects the performance of your mod and batteries.
 

Chainvapor

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
Some regulated mods can fire coil builds that are below 0.1 ohm, like, for example, DNA mods usually can, but on a DNA mod typically you'll find that the farther you go below 0.1 ohm the lower the maximum power that the mod is capable to deliver will be. It doesn't harm the mod or anything, as a regulated mod is designed to work reliably within the range that it's been designed to work in, or at least it should be, but the efficiency of the board inside the mod and the battery life resulting from that might be a little disappointing if you build your coil builds to such low resistances. Similarly, if the resistance is a bit higher than the range that is the recommended range for the regulated mod you're using the coil build on, then normally what will happen is the power output will gradually start to be throttled back by the mod way sooner than you might actually prefer, like, maybe it will start to happen when the batteries have gone down to 3.8 volts or 3.7 volts, instead of only after they've gone down to, say, 3.5 volts or 3.4 volts.

Especially if you are a high wattage vaper, vaping the batteries all the way down to 3.2 volts is something that tends to be not feasible because the "weak battery" message will appear so much earlier than that, but... in addition to that, the performance of the chip inside a regulated mod can also be held back by how the batteries themselves respond each time when you press the fire button so in fact the flavor and feel of the vape can also be ruined by choosing the wrong mod or the wrong batteries, or both, for what coils you had in mind. So much so, at the time when I moved from my Wismec Reuleaux RX2/3 with three Sony VTC5A batteries to my RX300 with four of these same batteries, I immediately noticed an incredible huge boost in the flavor performance I was getting from my coil build despite I was only vaping it at 140 watts and despite the RX2/3 using three batteries (and Firmware V4.13) is actually a 250 watts mod so I can't exactly blame the incredible huge difference on that. So the resistance can, and does, affect the performance as it affects the performance of your mod and batteries.
Actually, the DNA 250C board has a boost feature which helps it to keep firing at the correct wattage until the batteries are completely depleted. ( well down to 0% on the mod which is about 3.2v ). Even my old DNA200 fires consistently up until the batteries are at about 5-10%. The DNA by Evolv is a bad ass board! Although, good batteries are a must for this to work. I run Sony VTC5A batteries.

Happy Vaping!
CV :)
 

r055co

VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Actually, the DNA 250C board has a boost feature which helps it to keep firing at the correct wattage until the batteries are completely depleted. ( well down to 0% on the mod which is about 3.2v ). Even my old DNA200 fires consistently up until the batteries are at about 5-10%. The DNA by Evolv is a bad ass board! Although, good batteries are a must for this to work. I run Sony VTC5A batteries.

Happy Vaping!
CV :)
IMO for regulated Mod's the DNA chip is the only one to get.

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
 

Carambrda

Gold Contributor
Member For 3 Years
ECF Refugee
Actually, the DNA 250C board has a boost feature which helps it to keep firing at the correct wattage until the batteries are completely depleted. ( well down to 0% on the mod which is about 3.2v ). Even my old DNA200 fires consistently up until the batteries are at about 5-10%. The DNA by Evolv is a bad ass board! Although, good batteries are a must for this to work. I run Sony VTC5A batteries.

Happy Vaping!
CV :)
Even with the DNA 250C board the maximum power output is still very much limited by the resistance, though. For example, even if we can assume four batteries are being used to supply the power, at 0.5 ohms the maximum power that the DNA 250C can achieve is still only 200 watts with Kanthal and only 90 watts with Nickel according to page 9 in the official datasheet so not close to the "promised" 400 watts because the resistance still does matter, just like I said it does, but the reason why I haven't been impressed with DNA mods as far as regulated mods go is because ArcticFox handles custom power curves a million times better, i.e. it scales them automatically on-the-fly (and without requiring to re-connect the USB...) when you change the wattage setting on the mod, as the curves are made up by using percentages, not wattages, which makes the Wismec Reuleaux RX300 the better choice for custom preheat (i.e. setting the "Preheat Type" to "Curve" and bringing up the Curve Editor window in the NFE Tools software) in power mode at higher wattages despite I pretty much only use mech mods these days, but... it would appear to me not a lot of people understand, or want to understand, anything much about custom power curves so, to each their own, I guess...
 

KoblinV3

Member For 1 Year
I get the best flavor from SS316L. It's not just the fact that the wire itself tastes cleaner to me though. With it being so low resistance I can get the most amount of wraps using the lowest gauge possible while still having it ohm out to a resistance that my batteries can handle with 30% amp headroom (.19ohm-.22ohm). Thankfully batteries like the 30A Samsung 20S and the 35A Samsung 30T exist to be able to give me that perfect vape for my RDAs (both small and regular sized single coil RDAs) and RTAs.

I just got a 24 gauge 4mm ID 7 wrap spaced parallel coil in my Hermetic ohming out at .19ohm. The flavor is awesome and at 4mm good luck ever getting a dry hit haha. I'm loving the big coil in there and the ramp up is still quick for the size of the coil because it's a parallel build. I prefer this to Claptons or twisted.

No spitback, fast ramp up, easy on the battery, and incredible flavor. The spacing I've noticed makes a huge difference. The parallel contact coils aren't half as good to me. I make sure to leave zero spaces anywhere in my coil (well, the intentional spacing between the wraps obviously but none between the wires running in parallel). It's so worth the effort!
 

Hype

Member For 3 Years
WOW !! You guys are awesome !! Thank you all very much . I appreciate you for responding ..
 
I generally like stainless steel because I do like the option of using temperature control without having to rebuild. And I like good old Clapton wire as well as just plain round wire. I personally I'm into flavor more than I am Vapor production but I do like to know that I'm vaping.
 

minimag03

Bronze Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Hype, if you're interested in trying out some quality SS coils/wire (that won't cost a lot) Advanced Vape Supply has great products. They also have lots of options to choose from, so you should be able to find a wire that's appropriate for your setup. I've used their wire for years and still haven't found another company that offers a comparable length of wire for the money. Their Hex and Oct core wires are absolute beasts.

Something worth mentioning tho: SS has to be dry burned at very low wattage. So it's harder to work out hot-spots on SS wire than Ni80 or A1.

They also just launched a Ni80 line of coils and spools. I've only tried one build using it, but it seems to be working great. But I don't really know what I'm talking about cause I've been using SS for the past two years lol
 
Last edited:

MyMagicMist

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
Whatever wire you wind correctly to suit your vaping needs will work for you. Doesn't matter what someone else does because I can do the exact opposite and achieve what I am seeking. Just my opinion
Best thing to do is get different types of wire and find out for yourself what you like best. Once you do that you can start building more complex coils with your preferred wire type.
Another thing is don't get caught up in the resistance game. Great flavor can be achieved with low or high resistances. It just depends on how you build your coils. I usually vape around .8-.9 with my single coil builds anywhere from the low to high 40w range but I also made sure my mods and batteries can deliver the 6+ volts needed to heat the coil properly and safely.
I had thought of piling into the SS316L boat, simply imho. That aside, can agree with most said above. :) I do not run 6+ volts though.
 

Just Frank

Platinum Contributor
Member For 3 Years
SS gives me clean and bright(?) flavor. It seems just a bit more amplified. My preferred coil type is fused clapton or alien. The actual wire seems to go down hill faster than N80 or Ka1 for me though. The other two seem more durable and I reuse them a lot more times.

N80 has been great for me. Most pre-made coils and wire rolls come in N80. It's popular and more readily available so I've been using it. I can dry burn and clean it several times over and it seems good as new. KA1 might last even longer than N80.

Most of the kanthal I use is round wire or single core claptons. Kanthal mesh is good stuff too. Most of rhe newer subohm tanks use it and I get awesome flavor. Kanthal Offr nexmesh is really good stuff too.


People need to find out these things from experience. Some dont like this, others dont like that. What I get the best flavor on might not work for you. I'm lucky and have no problems using all of the popular types of wire. I haven't tried the oldschool Nickel or Titanium.

This year I want to get into spinning my own claptons/fused claptons.
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 2 Years
For TC, I LOVE medical grade titanium. Can't really make complex coils with it (except replay), but is fantastic even with with simple round or twisted builds.
 

Wb80

-DIY-demon-
VU Donator
Gold Contributor
Member For 1 Year
For TC, I LOVE medical grade titanium. Can't really make complex coils with it (except replay), but is fantastic even with with simple round or twisted builds.
Tc i as m ss. But i only really rely on tc with my wives cbd. Simple coil ss 30g 2 twisted together 4 a 1. Ohm coil
 

VU Sponsors

Top