I got a wotofo profile X RTA about a day and a half ago, as well as a geekvape aegis legend 3 (not a bad modbox, definitely time to put my Aegis X into the "for if I lose my main vape" corner, it was falling apart, 18650s needed 'modified' (positive terminals domed up) for it to turn on as I assume slop in the locking mechanism and stretch eventually ruined the connections) and I just felt like I needed something new. The Zeus RTA still works fine though, but I figured things had moved on a bit and wanted to try a different RTA.
The profile X wicked fine on the stock shoelace cotton supplied, though started to taste burnt after around 300 tokes and I fucked up the wicking badly, followed this guide but wasn't paying a huge amount of attention after the whole thinning process, didn't notice the wicking channels I needed to tuck the cotton into and just bent the cotton down, soaked it in vape liquid then got very confused as to why the top wouldn't screw on. Had to trim the damp cotton, try again, fail to notice the channels again and then get it wicked on the third try after parting the cotton, doing a very bad 45 degree cut, then noticed the wicking channels, cut the cotton down correctly and it worked fine.
I figured I should try it with muji pads, guides said to use less than the amount of wofoto cotton so there's only a light bit of resistance and to spread the cotton out then roll it up (like the scotch roll) however the one or two pics I could find had the cotton very densely packed still, so I went with a much rougher scotch roll approach where I pulled it to about 1/3 the amount I would with the coils I've been wicking with Mujis for about 3 years now, thinned it out like in the above vid, trimmed and tucked into the wicking channels.
This worked fine for about 20 hits, then I started getting dry hits. I tried with more muji cotton (half a strip this time) did the same thing (it was still loose enough to move about under the mesh while I used a pick (I think it's used for SIM card removal on some phones) on my bit driver to thin the cotton out), same thing.
Read through more posts about how it worked well with cotton bacon and tried a strip of that and yeah, that works. The cotton bacon was much tighter in the mesh, however it's much fluffier than rolled muji pads too.
But I want to go back to mujis, if only for the fact that they cost much, much less than cotton bacon and usually out-performs it in terms of longevity. With coils I'd usually re-wick every 500 hits, long before the cotton discoloured and with muji pads this became a very trivial cost, maybe £10-15 a year. Coils I would replace about once every 2 months. I assume mesh needs replaced a bit more often due to how thin it is, but if I like it, I can live with that cost.
I can't find any videos on mesh RTA wicking with mujis. All muji videos are either for mesh RDAs and pretty outdated, or are for coils. So, any suggestions? Should I pull it apart and roll it up much more loosely than I would for a coil and rely on the springbed to give the pad some leeway? Is rolling a bad idea, does another shape work better? Am I using enough of a muji pad (1/2 cut along the grain) or am I doing something else wrong.
tl;dr how do wicking RTA with muji pads I make?
The profile X wicked fine on the stock shoelace cotton supplied, though started to taste burnt after around 300 tokes and I fucked up the wicking badly, followed this guide but wasn't paying a huge amount of attention after the whole thinning process, didn't notice the wicking channels I needed to tuck the cotton into and just bent the cotton down, soaked it in vape liquid then got very confused as to why the top wouldn't screw on. Had to trim the damp cotton, try again, fail to notice the channels again and then get it wicked on the third try after parting the cotton, doing a very bad 45 degree cut, then noticed the wicking channels, cut the cotton down correctly and it worked fine.
I figured I should try it with muji pads, guides said to use less than the amount of wofoto cotton so there's only a light bit of resistance and to spread the cotton out then roll it up (like the scotch roll) however the one or two pics I could find had the cotton very densely packed still, so I went with a much rougher scotch roll approach where I pulled it to about 1/3 the amount I would with the coils I've been wicking with Mujis for about 3 years now, thinned it out like in the above vid, trimmed and tucked into the wicking channels.
This worked fine for about 20 hits, then I started getting dry hits. I tried with more muji cotton (half a strip this time) did the same thing (it was still loose enough to move about under the mesh while I used a pick (I think it's used for SIM card removal on some phones) on my bit driver to thin the cotton out), same thing.
Read through more posts about how it worked well with cotton bacon and tried a strip of that and yeah, that works. The cotton bacon was much tighter in the mesh, however it's much fluffier than rolled muji pads too.
But I want to go back to mujis, if only for the fact that they cost much, much less than cotton bacon and usually out-performs it in terms of longevity. With coils I'd usually re-wick every 500 hits, long before the cotton discoloured and with muji pads this became a very trivial cost, maybe £10-15 a year. Coils I would replace about once every 2 months. I assume mesh needs replaced a bit more often due to how thin it is, but if I like it, I can live with that cost.
I can't find any videos on mesh RTA wicking with mujis. All muji videos are either for mesh RDAs and pretty outdated, or are for coils. So, any suggestions? Should I pull it apart and roll it up much more loosely than I would for a coil and rely on the springbed to give the pad some leeway? Is rolling a bad idea, does another shape work better? Am I using enough of a muji pad (1/2 cut along the grain) or am I doing something else wrong.
tl;dr how do wicking RTA with muji pads I make?
