Hi and welcome to VU.
You always have to be careful, but using a trusted brand give you a little more room for error. For example.. a good, quality cell might heat to 100C about 7 seconds slower than the cheaper, knock off brand.
I also suggest getting a non-hybrid type (has a pos 510 pin) to help avoid hard shorts.
Notice the adjustable 510 pin on positive end.. This helps prevent hard shorts if the plus pin on your atomizer is to short. Some say these don't "hit" quite as hard as a hybrid, but the extra safety is worth it.
You will also want to stick within the Constant Discharge Rate (CDR) of your battery.. example.. 30A 2000mah high drain cell can handle aprox 0.15 ohm at its CDR whereas a 20A 3000Mah high drain can handle 0.20 ohm build and be within the CDR. NEVER use a battery that gives a "pulse" rating. This is just a marketing ploy. Any battery will PULSE according to how much resistance, but how long did they pulse for and how many times? Mooch tests batteries on a 5 second fire with 30 second rest, done several times. It the cell stays below 100C it passes Mooch's "OK" to use test.
To be honest, if you are going to get into mechanicals, you should be able to make your own coils.
here is a good calculator
http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.html
Also inspect your battery wraps for tears and pin holes. Torn wraps are one of the causes of hard shorts in cells. (even the sides of your mech mod are conductive as a - pole, not just the bottom) A hole in the side of the wrap can cause an arc and hard short.
And.. keep your mods very clean. Dirt creates resistance, resistance creates heat.
As mentioned... don't trust what the manufacturer prints on the coil.. test them yourself before use with an ohm meter.