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Squonkers are Bonkers

BrewBear

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
My first sqonker setup
293bb138235a248b00ab9aa46a682ecb.jpg


Sent from my SM-S120VL using Tapatalk
And a fine one it is! MAZEL TOV!!!!
 

pierces32

Member For 4 Years
To anyone interested in obtaining a $5 shipped Tobecco clone of the Rogue rda, hit up Ms Trixie in the forum. She has 5 to get rid of, first come, first served.
 

The.Drifter

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I like single coil center builds in the Nuppin. For me I use 24G SS316L, 3mm ID, 7 wraps for 0.35 ohms. To fit this size coil I have to use my custom caps. You can build to suit your ohm range but I recommend you use 2.5mm ID coils max with the Standard nuppin cap. 2mm would be ideal. Keep mind the gap between the coil and the center post and between the top of the coil and the topcap chamber. You dont want to short out your coil with your drip tip so please mind the distances .

So on to the pics, this is for my 3mm coils, but you can tailor the coil to suit your needs.

Basically I just wind my coil and bend and snip it like this:
nv8cp0qgudko2v86g.jpg

the bent leg will fit into the center post first. You will have to mount the coil on it side to get the screw tight on the center pin. I use a 3mm pin to keep the coil straight while mounting it. Once tightened i just pull it around to the top and push the long leg into the deck and tighten that screw. then I position the coil like this:
cjadx1dj67fb7w26g.jpg


I already pre-turned your center pin so all the mount holes line up in a row, this will make it easier to install this coil and it will leave the squonk holes at 90 degree angles to the coil. This way after its wicked, you will have the squonk holes free of wicking material and will allow your nuppin to squonk and drain correctly. Try to avoid putting wicking material on the squonk holes and the surrounding insulator channel.

This 24G SS 316L coil at 7 wraps on a 3mm bit ohmed out cold at 0.34:
q8mm2p138ttfsvd6g.jpg


and rises to 0.50 ohms when fired:
i3928eq838zywrx6g.jpg


Ideal build IMHO for a mech squonker because the cold ohms give it a faster ramp up time and them mellows out nicely.

I use Rayon for wicking, basically I just pull a amount thru the coil til its just snug in resistance. A trick I use that works great for cotton or rayon is after I pull the wick thru, I use a pick and pull the strands of the fibers away from the center of the coil to get all the fibers to line up in one direction, Looks like this when Im done:
rbu0k83vm0m3ohg6g.jpg


Now I just do two snips per wick leg, I start by doing a 45ish degree angle cut toward the deck ending at just below the top of the deck like this:
wi58u49sjeqv2i46g.jpg


then I do the second 45ish degree cut from the coil to the deck like this:
9afo22nom55t9s66g.jpg


try to cut the bottom of the wicks so it land where its pictured above, this way when you tuck in the coils the ends will rest on the deck without bending:

h34fp9pr8u39dtd6g.jpg


t1ypu8669xddpit6g.jpg


mounting the coil this way will leave nice channels for the juice to squonk and drain properly :)

Then I just put on the cap so the air channels hit the coil from both sides and come up thru the drip tip like this:
sdb2699s6vcgb1u6g.jpg


Once again, just how I build for my vape style, it can be easily tailored to your preferred style/wire/ohms :)
 

Briandesimone

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Can I get any recommendations on a way to get the best flavor on the origen little. Prefer single coil but will do dual coil if the flavor is better.

Sent from my SM-S120VL using Tapatalk
 

BrewBear

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I like single coil center builds in the Nuppin. For me I use 24G SS316L, 3mm ID, 7 wraps for 0.35 ohms. To fit this size coil I have to use my custom caps. You can build to suit your ohm range but I recommend you use 2.5mm ID coils max with the Standard nuppin cap. 2mm would be ideal. Keep mind the gap between the coil and the center post and between the top of the coil and the topcap chamber. You dont want to short out your coil with your drip tip so please mind the distances .

So on to the pics, this is for my 3mm coils, but you can tailor the coil to suit your needs.

Basically I just wind my coil and bend and snip it like this:
nv8cp0qgudko2v86g.jpg

the bent leg will fit into the center post first. You will have to mount the coil on it side to get the screw tight on the center pin. I use a 3mm pin to keep the coil straight while mounting it. Once tightened i just pull it around to the top and push the long leg into the deck and tighten that screw. then I position the coil like this:
cjadx1dj67fb7w26g.jpg


I already pre-turned your center pin so all the mount holes line up in a row, this will make it easier to install this coil and it will leave the squonk holes at 90 degree angles to the coil. This way after its wicked, you will have the squonk holes free of wicking material and will allow your nuppin to squonk and drain correctly. Try to avoid putting wicking material on the squonk holes and the surrounding insulator channel.

This 24G SS 316L coil at 7 wraps on a 3mm bit ohmed out cold at 0.34:
q8mm2p138ttfsvd6g.jpg


and rises to 0.50 ohms when fired:
i3928eq838zywrx6g.jpg


Ideal build IMHO for a mech squonker because the cold ohms give it a faster ramp up time and them mellows out nicely.

I use Rayon for wicking, basically I just pull a amount thru the coil til its just snug in resistance. A trick I use that works great for cotton or rayon is after I pull the wick thru, I use a pick and pull the strands of the fibers away from the center of the coil to get all the fibers to line up in one direction, Looks like this when Im done:
rbu0k83vm0m3ohg6g.jpg


Now I just do two snips per wick leg, I start by doing a 45ish degree angle cut toward the deck ending at just below the top of the deck like this:
wi58u49sjeqv2i46g.jpg


then I do the second 45ish degree cut from the coil to the deck like this:
9afo22nom55t9s66g.jpg


try to cut the bottom of the wicks so it land where its pictured above, this way when you tuck in the coils the ends will rest on the deck without bending:

h34fp9pr8u39dtd6g.jpg


t1ypu8669xddpit6g.jpg


mounting the coil this way will leave nice channels for the juice to squonk and drain properly :)

Then I just put on the cap so the air channels hit the coil from both sides and come up thru the drip tip like this:
sdb2699s6vcgb1u6g.jpg


Once again, just how I build for my vape style, it can be easily tailored to your preferred style/wire/ohms :)
I get the feeling this is going to me my first built on the Nuppin. Thank you for the very detailed pictorial.
 

BrewBear

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years

fartbubble

Silver Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
From going to think I might get around to selling mine to seeing the price V1 Roundhouses are going for, guess I'm on the lookout for another :/
 

BPROSEK

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Hope so, Juice....sure looks like a nice mod, + 10 ml bottle, + will hold my 30-40 mm non-squonk attys too.....:devil:

Stupid question, but is there anything that needs to be done to run a non squonk atty or is it just plug and play? I might want to use my aromamizer plus on it from time to time...

Now into the squonk question...attys...
I have velocity and velocity mini clones, Hastur v2s (on the way) and am thinking I'm gonna need one or two more for the time being. Def thinking Icon, now just need one more good addition that won't break the bank preferably from us vendor as I'm so sick of the slowboat wait...

Thanks for any input and suggestions.
 

inspects

Squonkamaniac
Senior Moderator
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Stupid question, but is there anything that needs to be done to run a non squonk atty or is it just plug and play? I might want to use my aromamizer plus on it from time to time...

Now into the squonk question...attys...
I have velocity and velocity mini clones, Hastur v2s (on the way) and am thinking I'm gonna need one or two more for the time being. Def thinking Icon, now just need one more good addition that won't break the bank preferably from us vendor as I'm so sick of the slowboat wait...

Thanks for any input and suggestions.
Plug and play...or screw any atty in and Vape.....:wave:
 

inspects

Squonkamaniac
Senior Moderator
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Stupid question, but is there anything that needs to be done to run a non squonk atty or is it just plug and play? I might want to use my aromamizer plus on it from time to time...

Now into the squonk question...attys...
I have velocity and velocity mini clones, Hastur v2s (on the way) and am thinking I'm gonna need one or two more for the time being. Def thinking Icon, now just need one more good addition that won't break the bank preferably from us vendor as I'm so sick of the slowboat wait...

Thanks for any input and suggestions.
You don't have a Goon (yet)?......:giggle:
 

JuicyLucy

My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
ECF Refugee
VU Challenge Team
Member For 5 Years
So I'm guessing the goon for the win? Regular or l.p.?

The Hadaly is super-sweet - my personal fave right now

The OG Goon must modified with your own squonk pin. The Goon 22 also must be modified, but it puts out a lot more flavor, though you lose a little room inside, lol.

The Goon LP is somewhat finicky, but really puts out flavor compared to the OG

That new Druga by Augvape is pretty sweet for just about any kind of build, and it comes with a variety of drip tips and a squonk pin

The dome screws on it are kinda wonky, but it vapes with great flavor and cloud age
 

BPROSEK

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
The Hadaly is super-sweet - my personal fave right now

The OG Goon must modified with your own squonk pin. The Goon 22 also must be modified, but it puts out a lot more flavor, though you lose a little room inside, lol.

The Goon LP is somewhat finicky, but really puts out flavor compared to the OG

That new Druga by Augvape is pretty sweet for just about any kind of build, and it comes with a variety of drip tips and a squonk pin

The dome screws on it are kinda wonky, but it vapes with great flavor and cloud age
Was actually just looking at the hadaly on element vape lol.

Now off to shop!
 

Danimal77

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
having an issue this morning so I put my peerless rda on my drip box 60w cause its a little smaller than my dripbox 160 and was gonna be working outside today but it doesn't fire I mean it takes forever to fire I have to pulse like 10 times before I get any vapor. It has a fresh battery that I just took off the charger. But when I switch the pin and put it on my 60w eleaf I stick it fires right up quickly I don't get it both 60w devices .6 ohm build any thoughts
 

BrandonRawks

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
having an issue this morning so I put my peerless rda on my drip box 60w cause its a little smaller than my dripbox 160 and was gonna be working outside today but it doesn't fire I mean it takes forever to fire I have to pulse like 10 times before I get any vapor. It has a fresh battery that I just took off the charger. But when I switch the pin and put it on my 60w eleaf I stick it fires right up quickly I don't get it both 60w devices .6 ohm build any thoughts

The dripbox isn't fully regulated. It's a 60W *maximum* device, but it's output depends completely on your build. You can't just set the wattage at 60. With a .6 ohm build, it's putting out less than 30W with a fully charged battery. If you have a dual coil or large mass build in there that you are used to running at 60W, that 30 isn't going to be nearly enough.
 

Danimal77

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
The dripbox isn't fully regulated. It's a 60W *maximum* device, but it's output depends completely on your build. You can't just set the wattage at 60. With a .6 ohm build, it's putting out less than 30W with a fully charged battery. If you have a dual coil or large mass build in there that you are used to running at 60W, that 30 isn't going to be nearly enough.
that's what I thought just wanted to make sure I wasn't doing anything wrong. Thanks a lot dude Guess Ill put on my 160 and just wait for my frankenskull
 

DogMan

VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 5 Years
that's what I thought just wanted to make sure I wasn't doing anything wrong. Thanks a lot dude Guess Ill put on my 160 and just wait for my frankenskull

which will output the same as your "60 watt" mod, maybe just less voltage drop :)
 

Danimal77

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
which will output the same as your "60 watt" mod, maybe just less voltage drop :)
so you think that ill have the same issue? so what would be a good mod to use for the peerless? should I do a lower ohm build?
Also think that im ordering a hadaly or a velocity today. Also whats a good mech squonker that I wont have to take out a second mortgage on lol
 

JuicyLucy

My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
ECF Refugee
VU Challenge Team
Member For 5 Years
so you think that ill have the same issue? so what would be a good mod to use for the peerless? should I do a lower ohm build?
Also think that im ordering a hadaly or a velocity today. Also whats a good mech squonker that I wont have to take out a second mortgage on lol

1. Coppervape
2. Coppervape
3.Coppervape
 

BrandonRawks

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
so you think that ill have the same issue? so what would be a good mod to use for the peerless? should I do a lower ohm build?
Also think that im ordering a hadaly or a velocity today. Also whats a good mech squonker that I wont have to take out a second mortgage on lol

Yes, all mechanical mods will output wattage based solely on coil resistance. I prefer low mass single coil builds on my mechanical mods for this reason (lower mass ramps up more quickly). It also saves a lot of battery life. You can do single coil on the Peerless too, but I prefer the Hadaly for my mechs.
 

Danimal77

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Yes, all mechanical mods will output wattage based solely on coil resistance. I prefer low mass single coil builds on my mechanical mods for this reason (lower mass ramps up more quickly). It also saves a lot of battery life. You can do single coil on the Peerless too, but I prefer the Hadaly for my mechs.
gonna go home and put in a single coil build and test it out thanks
 

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