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Pioneer4You IPV3 Li 165W With Temperature Control (Yihi SX330-V3SL )

Discobob

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I've noticed Ti ramp up is almost instant and cools down to the touch in seconds. Also it stays cleaner way longer then nickel. Now the fact contact coils work I'm %100000 sold

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Sounds exciting!!!! Can't wait to mess around with it, now I have to squeeze the fact I bought another mod in with the lady, I prepared though...I have an evil plan...

All this info is great!! Thanks guys:)
 

Deeks

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I generally follow the idea that its easier to ask for forgiveness than it is to ask for permission when it comes to vape gear :) .. oh and I love this mod, very happy I got it, just have to get into the titanium wire option still!
 

StanM

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Do you notice it flutter firing? Is that normal or too much cotton?
 

Cloudy Peak Vapes

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Do you notice it flutter firing? Is that normal or too much cotton?
If you're in TC with a Nickel build, and have locked the resistance, it will constantly vary the voltage to meet and not exceed your temperature setting. If that's what you're describing, it's doing it's job.
 

StanM

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Although I am in Ti mode yeah. 4.13 v-4.2 But, I never was able to feel it before when I vaped on the evic. I can actually feel the fluctuations when I inhale.
Update: I turned it down in joules to around 35j and it dissipated. So, it's exactly what you said.
 
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Eric DeCastro

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I watched a video where on the VF you go to 600* and it turns off the temp sensor and you can dry fire your coils to work out the hotspots. will the IPV3 Li do this?
 

Eric DeCastro

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hmm so it seems that I won't be able to work the hotspots out of the coils. I'll play with it when i get it, is there a way you can fire a Ni200 wire in power (watts) mode?
 

Eric DeCastro

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ok, last question. with a nickel build of about .08ohms can you switch it to power (watts) and fire it at a lower power rating like 10W? I know I just have to wait til I get my stuff in, but I'm just curious.
 

harpo1

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ok, last question. with a nickel build of about .08ohms can you switch it to power (watts) and fire it at a lower power rating like 10W? I know I just have to wait til I get my stuff in, but I'm just curious.
No in Power Mode the lowest resistance it will fire is .1 ohms.
 

Eric DeCastro

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ok thanks for the info. I'm just concerned with hot spots on the coils. maybe this something I won't have to worry about with Ni200. who knows. I guess I'll see in a few days when I try to build one.
 

MarkS

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I have heard a few people having TC issues with low resistance Ni200 coil builds (0.06-0.08). Personally I've kept mine at or just above 0.1 and haven't had a single problem.

No matter where you go, take your Vape!
 

Eric DeCastro

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I have heard a few people having TC issues with low resistance Ni200 coil builds (0.06-0.08). Personally I've kept mine at or just above 0.1 and haven't had a single problem.

No matter where you go, take your Vape!
the only tanks I have are orchids so I have to make them dual coils. I don't own a subtank nor so I want to have to buy one. so I'm kind of in a bind. if I have to buy a subtank, i guess I will but I have 5 orchids all tweaked and modified and love them. thanks for the input.
 

StanM

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I built my zephyrus same as I do with kanthal and tweaked it in power mode. But, I am using Ti
 

Cloudy Peak Vapes

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ok thanks for the info. I'm just concerned with hot spots on the coils. maybe this something I won't have to worry about with Ni200. who knows. I guess I'll see in a few days when I try to build one.
I just build Nickel in RDAS, I have the Smok TCT's for tanks. Just space your coils, then you'll be able to tell once you fire if they're heating unevenly. A little poking and prodding with a mini flathead will sort it out. In an Orchid, I'd imagine you could juice it prior to assembly, and make sure your getting bubbling liquid evenly. I have Annealeed Ni200 that might arrive today, if not tomorrow. Lightning Vapes describes it as being like working with kanthal, so I'll try making a contact coil, and let you know how it works. It's really all about secure connections, and from there, you have to fiddle a bit. I'm Getting used to it, and I'm able to re wick and clean my coils with a baby wipe, and some scraping, so I'm not re building each time. The coils aren't necessarily pretty, but spacing them gets them going properly.
 

MarkS

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the only tanks I have are orchids so I have to make them dual coils. I don't own a subtank nor so I want to have to buy one. so I'm kind of in a bind. if I have to buy a subtank, i guess I will but I have 5 orchids all tweaked and modified and love them. thanks for the input.
I'm doing TC dual coil builds on a Yiloong Fogger V6 and a Russian 91%. I also have an Atlantis 2 that I have VapeOnly vAir-T coils for.
 

Eric DeCastro

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I just build Nickel in RDAS, I have the Smok TCT's for tanks. Just space your coils, then you'll be able to tell once you fire if they're heating unevenly. A little poking and prodding with a mini flathead will sort it out. In an Orchid, I'd imagine you could juice it prior to assembly, and make sure your getting bubbling liquid evenly. I have Annealeed Ni200 that might arrive today, if not tomorrow. Lightning Vapes describes it as being like working with kanthal, so I'll try making a contact coil, and let you know how it works. It's really all about secure connections, and from there, you have to fiddle a bit. I'm Getting used to it, and I'm able to re wick and clean my coils with a baby wipe, and some scraping, so I'm not re building each time. The coils aren't necessarily pretty, but spacing them gets them going properly.
I think you mean tempered is like kanthal. annealed is soft. it says so right on there site so I ordered the tempered.

Rebuilding with Ni200 Nickel just got a little easier. Tempered Ni200 nickel wire has the feel and consistency of Kanthal A1 wire, but almost exactly the same resistance as annealed Ni200 wire. Recommended for temperature controlled devices & chips.
 

dre

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ok thanks for the info. I'm just concerned with hot spots on the coils. maybe this something I won't have to worry about with Ni200. who knows. I guess I'll see in a few days when I try to build one.
If you fire in tc mode and there is a short the wire will glow red so you'll know. I always check before I wick and right when I'm done just to make sure the cotton didn't mess it up.

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dre

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the only tanks I have are orchids so I have to make them dual coils. I don't own a subtank nor so I want to have to buy one. so I'm kind of in a bind. if I have to buy a subtank, i guess I will but I have 5 orchids all tweaked and modified and love them. thanks for the input.
You can use titanium for dual coils its much easier and contact coils work if you gently get the hot spots out. Never glow it bright red almost white. Just a slight glow until its even. If the wire turns white its cooked but bluish purple or yellow is where you want it.

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Cloudy Peak Vapes

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I think you mean tempered is like kanthal. annealed is soft. it says so right on there site so I ordered the tempered.

Rebuilding with Ni200 Nickel just got a little easier. Tempered Ni200 nickel wire has the feel and consistency of Kanthal A1 wire, but almost exactly the same resistance as annealed Ni200 wire. Recommended for temperature controlled devices & chips.
Derp... You had me worried I messed up my order... I got the tempered. My current Ni200 is annealed 26g, I haven't had problems I couldn't fix, but this stuff sounds promising. It is a pain in the ass at times. I can't emphasize secure connection enough. I make sure it's in the center of my post holes, then wrap around the screw head for stability. Dry burning isn't recommended with Nickel, I believe, but a quick pulse probably is fine, though I haven't had to.

My wire made it to the area, and appears on it's way to my post office, so I think it's gonna come today, unless they sit on it. How first class got from Florida to Denver in 2 days, with regular scans, I don't understand. Not complaining, USPS just makes no sense. I'll definitely be sure to chime in, I got 26 & 28ga tempered, lol, and some 24g kanthal. I've never built with anything thicker than 26 for Kanthal, so I wanna tinker. I'll do a nickel build first thing, though. Might try a contact coil to see if it works out.
 

Cloudy Peak Vapes

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If you fire in tc mode and there is a short the wire will glow red so you'll know. I always check before I wick and right when I'm done just to make sure the cotton didn't mess it up.

Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk
I haven't tried this, I just lock the resistance prior to and post wicking, make sure it is at least close. Won't show a hot spot, but would show a short, and makes you know your wicking didn't throw off the coil.
 

dre

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I haven't tried this, I just lock the resistance prior to and post wicking, make sure it is at least close. Won't show a hot spot, but would show a short, and makes you know your wicking didn't throw off the coil.
It only reads short if its below .0550 sometimes when your mounting the coil the heat fr your hands raises the resistance a little. So try building no lower then .065 which is the most accurate build for the board.

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Cloudy Peak Vapes

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It only reads short if its below .0550 sometimes when your mounting the coil the heat fr your hands raises the resistance a little. So try building no lower then .065 which is the most accurate build for the board.

Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk
Yeah, I let it sit for a couple minutes and clean the sleeve top cap and drip tip, then I lock it. The wire is so sensitive to any interaction with the atty. didn't know it wouldn't read a short, though it won't fire one... Ask me how I know, not the user manual.

I'm finding the Li to like builds close to or just over .1, which my 4 reads as .08. It's consistently about .02 lower than the Li, but the Li reads the TCT coils at .15 on the nose, so I think the Li is more accurate. It doesn't fluctuate, so it's not a big deal.

My wire is out for delivery, so I should be building by roughly 4:00 MDT, maybe sooner. My mailman is so inconsistent, and on the late side.
 

st0nedpenguin

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ok thanks for the info. I'm just concerned with hot spots on the coils. maybe this something I won't have to worry about with Ni200. who knows. I guess I'll see in a few days when I try to build one.

If you're getting hotspots with non contact coils you're doing something horribly wrong.
 

Eric DeCastro

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If you're getting hotspots with non contact coils you're doing something horribly wrong.
Thanks for the info. I actually don't have the mod or wire yet so I haven't gotten to play with it. Since the wire I bought is tempered I was going to attempt to build it with the coils touching to reduce space the coil will take up. But who knows I might have to go with spaced coils.
 

Cloudy Peak Vapes

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Thanks for the info. I actually don't have the mod or wire yet so I haven't gotten to play with it. Since the wire I bought is tempered I was going to attempt to build it with the coils touching to reduce space the coil will take up. But who knows I might have to go with spaced coils.
Still waiting on my mail, I'll let you know how the tempered goes soon hopefully.
 

st0nedpenguin

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Thanks for the info. I actually don't have the mod or wire yet so I haven't gotten to play with it. Since the wire I bought is tempered I was going to attempt to build it with the coils touching to reduce space the coil will take up. But who knows I might have to go with spaced coils.

It's really not worth the hassle of contact coils with nickel, with titanium though they'll probably be high enough resistance to fire them at low wattage in power mode to get contact coils working.
 

Cloudy Peak Vapes

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mine is about two days out.
Mine came... Late. Been fiddling for way too long. I should've used 26g since I'm used to normal Ni200 26g, but I used 28, since I was trying for contact duals. I kept either hitting too low, or snapping the leads when tightening my grub nuts, so I just did a non contact 9 wrap on 3mm diameter, it's ugly, but these nickel coils tend to be once I get them firing well. It metered to .125, way higher than I've built before, but I just turned down the temp and it's vaping well. When I get some patience I'll work with the 26. It's hard to compare the different gauges, but the 28 tempered felt much more like 28g Kanthal. It's really springy, and you can't torch it, so that's a bit annoying. Overall, I need to build more to really get a verdict, but it's definitely closer to Kanthal. I spent way too much time messing around, so I need a break. Tasting and vaping well, and I'm actually kinda digging the .125 resistance. It's seeming to get better flavor and vapor at 40J and 473-493 degrees.
 

MarkS

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That's the ballpark I settled into and found it to be good for me. It's all subjective to each individual.

No matter where you go, take your Vape!
 

Maverik_X

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ipv3-li-vr-2T.jpg


iPV3 Li vr edition
Do want saw this a few days back. I have a thing for carbon fiber makes me all tingly inside. lol
 

Eric DeCastro

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from the buttons, it looks like an IPV3 not an IPV3 Li even the touch sensor is in the wrong place.
 

Maverik_X

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from the buttons, it looks like an IPV3 not an IPV3 Li even the touch sensor is in the wrong place.
yes its old iPV3 vr edition
the LI vr cf edition is not out yet still being produced.
 

dre

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You can make your own with a j wrap so what's the point? Plus it cost more then a regular ipv

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Maverik_X

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You can make your own with a j wrap so what's the point? Plus it cost more then a regular ipv

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I have never seen a vr edition irl so I wouldn't know what all gimmicks it includes but if its only a sticker I don't want it lol
 

dre

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Yup its just a sticker and maybe a blue paint scheme that's it!

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Discobob

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Dammit maverik your freaking me out, I'm scrolling and I see that I'm like wtf already I haven't even got mine yet!!!:)

Evil plan kicked in, bought my lady the new eleaf tc to take her mind off of the vape Mail coming....shit as of lately maybe I need to get a PO box.....eh she's cool just need to make sure to be extra smooth this next week:)
 

Discobob

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Mine came... Late. Been fiddling for way too long. I should've used 26g since I'm used to normal Ni200 26g, but I used 28, since I was trying for contact duals. I kept either hitting too low, or snapping the leads when tightening my grub nuts, so I just did a non contact 9 wrap on 3mm diameter, it's ugly, but these nickel coils tend to be once I get them firing well. It metered to .125, way higher than I've built before, but I just turned down the temp and it's vaping well. When I get some patience I'll work with the 26. It's hard to compare the different gauges, but the 28 tempered felt much more like 28g Kanthal. It's really springy, and you can't torch it, so that's a bit annoying. Overall, I need to build more to really get a verdict, but it's definitely closer to Kanthal. I spent way too much time messing around, so I need a break. Tasting and vaping well, and I'm actually kinda digging the .125 resistance. It's seeming to get better flavor and vapor at 40J and 473-493 degrees.
I'm sure this has been brought up but sometimes when I'm lazy I got some stainless fine thread screws from ace hardware, size is about 2.5 give or take but I wrap around my screws, fill in the threads position on my atty, then tighten and carefully back the screw out. It's a very perfect way to do it and works for me but wrapping on a driver and pinching is fine too.

As of lately I have been doing some pretty creative stuff with nickel I have found I love it compared to kanthal.....
 
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Cloudy Peak Vapes

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Yup its just a sticker and maybe a blue paint scheme that's it!

Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk
It's nothing crazy special, but it is carbon fiber. Aside from that, it's identical, no difference in the paint scheme aside from carbon fiber and VR 150+ on the non button side, instead of the ugly P4Y logo. It actually doesn't say P4Y or iPV3 anywhere, just VR 150+ on the side. And yes that picture is the regular iPV3 VR 150+. I have one, paid about $10 extra at the time, cheaper than a wrap.
 

Cloudy Peak Vapes

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i paid $4 shipped for my two pieces of grey carbon fiber vinyl. :confused:
Well... I suppose I got duped $6, :confused: lol. Gonna cry a bit. I got a free sheet of 3M clear vinyl yesterday, so I can make my own wrap for my Li to cover stickers. Does that make me cool and thrifty?

As far as the tempered Ni200 is concerned, it's not really much better than regular. It is stiffer, but I'm getting glowing hot spots for the first time with Nickel... I just did a nice build, it was charring a bit in one section, but I think some tweezing and prodding sorted it. No more hot spots, at least. Kinda weird that I only have gotten hot spots with the tempered wire. I did fold the wire and double it through the post holes for this build. That might've helped.

Might tinker some more, might go chill at a vape shop I'm friends with. Got nothing to do on a Friday, been a rough day, too. Had to put down a family dog a few hours ago... She was 14, and it was essentially natural, just sucks. That's the small price we pay for the wonderful companionship of dogs.

The Li is still kicking ass! The 4 is officially my work beater, and the TCT's finally have me not dripping and driving.
 

Discobob

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Vape mail came sooner than expected:) all I can say is well it's different from my vsdna40 for sure, kinda crazy the difference in temp control same tank general same settings . But the Li seems to just well I don't know Vape different. Can't explain as of yet haven't had it but a couple hours. Feels solid and the touch button amazingly works really nice:)

Got my mini goblin also(thanks dre for planting that one) going to build a nickel set up on it tomorrow and check it out.... Can't wait:).

I do need a sleeve or wrap due to my OCD but I put some protective film on the top so the rda wouldnt scratch the top and put some on the bottom ..

I can say I kinda like the lack of updating on tracking from usps, it was showing in transit still to the Denver hub so I thought it would be today but when I got home all pissed off at the mailbox I opened it and surprise:)

Anyway thanks for all the info so far guys!!!!
 

dre

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Vape mail came sooner than expected:) all I can say is well it's different from my vsdna40 for sure, kinda crazy the difference in temp control same tank general same settings . But the Li seems to just well I don't know Vape different. Can't explain as of yet haven't had it but a couple hours. Feels solid and the touch button amazingly works really nice:)

Got my mini goblin also(thanks dre for planting that one) going to build a nickel set up on it tomorrow and check it out.... Can't wait:).

I do need a sleeve or wrap due to my OCD but I put some protective film on the top so the rda wouldnt scratch the top and put some on the bottom ..

I can say I kinda like the lack of updating on tracking from usps, it was showing in transit still to the Denver hub so I thought it would be today but when I got home all pissed off at the mailbox I opened it and surprise:)

Anyway thanks for all the info so far guys!!!!
Get some 26g titanium spider silk and build a 2.5mm 8wrap contact coil and run it at 550° 55j and its such a dense thick vape its delicious. Work out the hot spots with 20w and lightly pulse I'm talking stop right before you notice it turning red and strum the coils. Should be a purple blue coil when done.

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CTFX

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I got that new adamantium. It's spider woven but 800g :)
 

Discobob

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Get some 26g titanium spider silk and build a 2.5mm 8wrap contact coil and run it at 550° 55j and its such a dense thick vape its delicious. Work out the hot spots with 20w and lightly pulse I'm talking stop right before you notice it turning red and strum the coils. Should be a purple blue coil when done.

Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk


Excellent, just threw a nickel dual build on it and it's odd says .06 on my dna40 but wont fire says low resistance on my LI...?? Am I missing something? Eh I will mess with it I have just fired it up haven't messed with it much yet. But I love the wicking channels on the goblin mini its a really neat little tank looks like it will work great.
 

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