Basic MOSFET wiring

[Hermit]

Yup, P vs N is no big deal - pretty much just turn the battery round.

The SUP75P03-07-E3 datasheet says it can handle 187 Watts
The 3.75W figure is for the surface mount package, soldered on a PCB, with no heatsinking.

 

[Resnik]

Thanks for your help. I would rather not run the risk of either burning out the switch or bridging its contacts. So I am ordering the N channel one you listed since now looking back it seems to be the norm in this type of box mod. I am also going to put inline fuses in as another safety feature and a battery volt meter so I can see the level of the cells. I'm just glad I noticed the problem before I had it all put together and pulling my hair out wondering why it does not work.

 

[Resnik]

Yeah I saw that myself. I think it's more then capable of handling a sub ohm build, but I'm not sure on the wiring end of it. Since it's a positive channel mosfet, do I just wire it opposite of the N? This is where I ran into the question of how, because I could find nothing about using a P channel in this type of application. Then there is the question of would a 15k resistor be needed. I think in the end it's just easier to order the one everyone seems to prefer. Also it seems the N channel mosfets function better and faster then P channels from what I read. In almost every application using a mosfet to take the load off a switch a N channel was used.

 

[Hermit]

The speed is unlikely to be an issue, I'd imagine. The on resistance of the SUP75P03-07-E3 is slightly lower than the IRL3103, but they're broadly similar at 0.013 ohms at 20A and 0.016 ohms at 28A repectively. So notable power would be wasted as heat in either at very low ohms - more than 10% with a 0.1ohm coil - notable, but not lots. This is where the IRLB3034 really shines - it has almost 10x less resistance, and at even more current, a maximum of a mere 0.002 ohms at 4.5V and 172A.

The choice is yours though, I'm sure they would all work fine! To build the P one, you could wire everything the same and just put the battery in backwards

 

[Resnik]

I went ahead and placed an order at Mouser. Also picked up some solder, and heat shrink. I'm going to save the P channel I got for a Raptor box mod I'm looking into next.

The P channel would probably work with out issue, but I saw that "mosfet of choice" and it made me want that one lol. It was a learning experience for me and now I know what to look for with mosfets.

Once this one is completed I'll post some pics.

 

[Warhawk-AVG]

Attempting to make a cheapo "mechanical" into a MOSFET version, I will call it "The Lightening Bolt"

http://vapingunderground.com/index.php?threads/21811/

Posted from NARFatalk!!

 

[Warhawk-AVG]

I made a Vaping Underground MOSFET box mod board, if interested, preliminary design...I might end up having to make another via hole for another wire, otherwise you will have to make a "Y" + battery cable...

2 layer board of 0.62x1.19 inches (16x30mm). $3.70 for three.

Top:

Bottom:

Any of the TO220 style N-Type MOSFETS, and any 1/4 watt resistor, cut the center leg, it's ground...that huge ground plane is now ground, solder any momentary switch on SW1 and SW2, solder the BAT+ to the center pin on the 510 connector, solder GND to the 510 outer housing....fire that puppy up

Here are some VERY good TO220 style MOSFETS

The AOD510? Doesn't look like it - surface mount and only 7.5W power rating

The IRL3103 in a TO220 package handles up to 64A and 94W.

The IRLB3034 in a TO220 package handles up to 195A and 375W (but 2x the price of the IRL3103).

 

[Warhawk-AVG]

Ok V1.0

Ran a VERY thick trace up the side and added a output BAT+ on top

TOP:

Back side is the same

 

[Resnik]

im interested for sure. Only thing I'd want to know is, is it going to save me space or cut down on any wires. A good picture of how it would be laid out would be awesome. I like pictures lol.

 

[Warhawk-AVG]

Well it gives a single board to solder all the wires too

Not to say this guys build isn't awesome...but the board cleans it all up

Instead of all these wires going all willy nilly like below, you have a nice pretty board to solder all the wires to

 

[Resnik]

I like it. I plan on building a few of these so anything to keep it clean and cut down on assembly time.

 

[Warhawk-AVG]

The via holes are the size of header pins so pretty thick wire should fit in, the tab on the TO220 can be used for gnd as well

Using 22ga silicon coated wire from FT black / red, it's VERY flexible and can handle decent current if you keep the length short

 

[Wabah58]

Finished a G box mofset build with Evolv mini usb charging board today. Charges the cheap batts pretty good, see how long it takes the good efest batts to charge today.

 

[Resnik]

That looks awesome. I started mine tonight, but my solder, mosfet, and heat shrink will not be in till Friday. I might end up changing out the magnets on the mod itself to 1/4 inch as well. Right now I have 1/8 driven into the holes and they just don't seem to be enough. Also wishing I had got my 510 from BDV since theirs comes with the washer for your ground as well.

 

[Wabah58]

For the ground lug on those Varitube 510's Get a crimp lug from AutoZone that will fit around the 510, take the plastic off that lug and solder your wire to that lug. Lot easier, and looks better than soldering to the nut.

I used the same magnets in door and on box itself. Just in door didn't seem to be enough.

 

[Resnik]

Yeah I was trying to think of places local I could grab that crimp at or some kinda washer I could cut down. I know a 3/8 washer will fit it, but that washer size is huge on the outer diameter. Lol was going to cut it down with my dremel, but I like your idea much better. Less work and the auto store is on the way home from work. I Like the usb charger you put into it. I had thought about that, but was not sure how it would do with 2 batteries. I am going to put in the 1s2s meter so I know where my batteries are at. It's 25mm long though and I'm still trying to work out how I'm going to get that into the mod. Been thinking about cutting out the door, but that just seems eh to me. Might end up just making a place for it inside, since I have cut down my 1048 sled to sit flush to the bottom and have a little head room up top.

 

[Warhawk-AVG]

Finished a G box mofset build with Evolv mini usb charging board today. Charges the cheap batts pretty good, see how long it takes the good efest batts to charge today.

View attachment 6932

I have those small USB TP4056 charging modules, replaced the RProg resistor from 1.2k (1A) to 2.2k (500mA~) [slower charge rate and IC doesn't get as hot], I use it at my desk at work (I busted the micro USB connector off the board on a Xtar MC1 and after soldering it about 5 times, the traces finally went kaput...it takes about 5 hrs at 500mA to charge a Efest 2000mAh that has been pulled down to right around 3v. So your board pushing 1A into parallel batteries, probably about the same time 4-5hrs

They work pretty good, the clear 18650 heatshrink wrapping works GREAT on those type boards

 

[Resnik]

Also even knowing the physical size of the 1590g I was surprised at how small it was when I had it in my hand. It's just about the same as my DNA 30, just about 10mm taller.

 

[Warhawk-AVG]

Man those box mods look AWESOME!

What is that low profile firing button? Gotta link?

 

[Warhawk-AVG]

Feel like I am re-inventing the wheel..hah

Madvapes has a small SOT-23 type board
http://www.madvapes.com/blog/how-to-build-a-3-7-v-1xaa-mosfet-box-kit

 

[Resnik]

I went with the switch in mine simply because I did not have to solder it at all, but after seeing how much room it's taking up I wish I had gone with something smaller. That's where it would have been nice to have the 1590g in my hand before I started buying parts would have been nice. I'm thinking about putting the meter under the switch now cut into the side of the case, but going to wait till I have it all in hand before I make any changes.

 

[Wabah58]

I used the mini tactile switch like whats in the Hana Modz clones. My decision on the mini usb charger was based on that I would charge the box while im asleep. Should be able to get close to a full charge in that time, plus I usually start the day on the Hana clone and kayfun so add a hour or 2 there.

I used solid 14ga copper on everything, but the charger, and when you press that button it sounds violent. LOL. It gets with it!

 

[Resnik]

Man, I can't wait for my parts to come in. Looking at smaller volt meters now since I'm not sure if the 1s-2s is going to fit anywhere. Would like to find something if possible that has a frame that no matter how narly the hole I cut it would cover.

 

[Wabah58]

Man, I can't wait for my parts to come in. Looking at smaller volt meters now since I'm not sure if the 1s-2s is going to fit anywhere. Would like to find something if possible that has a frame that no matter how narly the hole I cut it would cover.

They have bezels for the volt meters, but it sticks out a lot.

 

[Resnik]

I was just going to put the meter inline. Positive directly off the battery and the negative to the negative going to the 510. I mean this will work right? I was thinking and this maybe way off that if I did this, with an RDA off I would get volts when I click the button and on I would get the drop I might be thinking about this totally wrong though.

 

[Warhawk-AVG]

I was just going to put the meter inline. Positive directly off the battery and the negative to the negative going to the 510. I mean this will work right? I was thinking and this maybe way off that if I did this, with an RDA off I would get volts when I click the button and on I would get the drop I might be thinking about this totally wrong though.

Problem with that, the voltmeter will not show the actual battery voltage, the voltage will sag if current is flowing thru the coil. It will read accurately if there is no head on the rig, just fire it and read the volts.

Also those little lights do use about 30mA of current...if they are left on they WILL drain the heck out of a battery, I put one of them on a small single cell 5vdc portable power unit...after about 2 days the battery went from about 4.1 to 3.6, slowly sucked the battery dry, I did put a small pushbutton momentary now and the battery stays full

 

[Wabah58]

How is the box coming along @Resnik ?

The USB charger is working great. Very convenient for my style of vaping. I roll about 3 different devices in rotation, on paper the usb charger seems like it might not be that great, but it is perfect for me. I guess im not drawing down too much on my batts, I put it on charge at midnite, and by 4 or 5 I have a green lite (Full Charge) At about .6 -.7 ohm colis.

 

[Resnik]

I strait wired it for now. Mosfet would not shut off for some reason. At that time I had not idea how to ground it out to check it. Lol I've read a lot on them now and feel I either needed a higher ohm resistor or something was touching. Could not find anything touching after ripping it apart so eh not sure. I ordered 10 mosfets and 10 15k ohm resistors and enough parts to build 4 complete boxes. Also ordered a breadboard to get it right before stuffing it in the box.

 

[Wabah58]

Bummer, I use 1/2W 15K ohm Resistor.

 

[Resnik]

I am not sure exactly what the issue was. I used a 1/2w 15K ohm resistor as well. I wonder if I got it to hot while soldering? From what I read that would be kinda hard to do.

Mosfet:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...BFvirtualkey57370000virtualkey942-IRLB3034PBF

Resistor:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...irtualkey66200000virtualkey66-CMO1/21502JLFTR

Figured with the almost half price drop when ordering 10+ I'll just get them. Got a bunch of friends wanting one just from the strait wired one lol. I'll make up the cost plus pay for one or two I made for myself. 1590g boxes are sold out just about everywhere though and the ones who do have them are putting a couple dollar mark up on them, but what's new. eBay is the only place you can really find it. So I got 2 1590B, 1 1591 plastic, and 1 1590z162 something or other. The last one there is just about the same size as the 1590g, but has a rubber seal running around inside of the lid.

 

[Wabah58]

Yeah lot of stories about frying mosfets out there when soldering. Guess I been lucky, I use aligator clips to hold the resistor wire on the legs, it also kind of acts like a heat sink too when soldering. Tin my copper wire first, little flux on the fet leg, and hit it kind of quick, soldering the resistor and copper lead at the same time to the fet leg.

 

[Warhawk-AVG]

I am not sure exactly what the issue was. I used a 1/2w 15K ohm resistor as well. I wonder if I got it to hot while soldering? From what I read that would be kinda hard to do.

Mosfet:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...BFvirtualkey57370000virtualkey942-IRLB3034PBF

Resistor:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=CMO1/21502JLFTRvirtualkey66200000virtualkey66-CMO1/21502JLFTR

Figured with the almost half price drop when ordering 10+ I'll just get them. Got a bunch of friends wanting one just from the strait wired one lol. I'll make up the cost plus pay for one or two I made for myself. 1590g boxes are sold out just about everywhere though and the ones who do have them are putting a couple dollar mark up on them, but what's new. eBay is the only place you can really find it. So I got 2 1590B, 1 1591 plastic, and 1 1590z162 something or other. The last one there is just about the same size as the 1590g, but has a rubber seal running around inside of the lid.

wow...that is a GREAT Rds On on that TO220 MOSFET...dang..very very low!

 

[Warhawk-AVG]

Oh wow...check out these small profile MOSFETS 1.5 mOhm Rds on!
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...EPv6oevX0jKqWa7kBqQKivr/nyLKwLl9p9TifKJhKQA==

 

[Guest3123]

Is this thread still alive? I see the last post was October 12th 2014. I read the whole thread on this subject, and just needed a little clarification.

I was thinking of using a much bigger Hammond Enclosure Box, and using a LiPo 14.8v 90C 5000mAh Batter as my power source..

So.. I went and just basically re drew what I thought was right..



Is that good, or is it wrong? I could also use 26650 MNKE IMR Batteries, which is what I have already.. I'll probably need a 26650 Cradle to hold the batteries.. I just basically want to create a Box Mod that gives me the freedom to vape at any wattage I want, and not have to worry about limits anymore. The above mod will allow me to vape up to 375 Watts, which from what I've heard other places usually ignites the eLiquid. lol.

But anyways, yeah, that's what I want to make. I'll call my Box Mod, (THE HULK). Because I also know of on "MOUSER" that there's N-Channel MOSFETS higher than the one listed above. So.. I'm actually a little new to MOSFETS. I watched the video already. No need to post it again.

I actually would like the freedom to be able to vape at 500 Watts, or past 500 Watts. Using the above setup. The problem with this is that I do not have a solder iron, I do not know what type of solder to use.. I could probably just use pure silver solder from Rio Grande online.. I hear Silver is the BEST conductor. But anyways.. What type of solder do I need for this little project, and what type of solder iron do I need? I'll probably also be using heat shrink tubing for the 4mm bullet connectors for the battery. I'll have to take the battery out and charge it with a battery charger from Hobby King.

Awesome thread & Forum BTW. Absolutely love all the information on here. Been looking for some real help, and just been a little nervous starting this project. But I would ABSOLUTELY LOVE to make my own box mod. You guys seem really smart and really easy going and seem to know your stuff. I currently own 1 Mechanical Mod, it's the Pure Copper Hades.

I mainly shop at McMaster-Carr, Lowes, etc. etc. for most of my stuff when it comes to building things.


Not really that important.. and not what I'm going to build, but is this a good touch switch circuit for a box mod?

 

[Wabah58]

Is this thread still alive? I see the last post was October 12th 2014. I read the whole thread on this subject, and just needed a little clarification.

I was thinking of using a much bigger Hammond Enclosure Box, and using a LiPo 14.8v 90C 5000mAh Batter as my power source..

So.. I went and just basically re drew what I thought was right..

View attachment 7524 View attachment 7524

Is that good, or is it wrong? I could also use 26650 MNKE IMR Batteries, which is what I have already.. I'll probably need a 26650 Cradle to hold the batteries.. I just basically want to create a Box Mod that gives me the freedom to vape at any wattage I want, and not have to worry about limits anymore. The above mod will allow me to vape up to 375 Watts, which from what I've heard other places usually ignites the eLiquid. lol.

But anyways, yeah, that's what I want to make. I'll call my Box Mod, (THE HULK). Because I also know of on "MOUSER" that there's N-Channel MOSFETS higher than the one listed above. So.. I'm actually a little new to MOSFETS. I watched the video already. No need to post it again.

I actually would like the freedom to be able to vape at 500 Watts, or past 500 Watts. Using the above setup. The problem with this is that I do not have a solder iron, I do not know what type of solder to use.. I could probably just use pure silver solder from Rio Grande online.. I hear Silver is the BEST conductor. But anyways.. What type of solder do I need for this little project, and what type of solder iron do I need? I'll probably also be using heat shrink tubing for the 4mm bullet connectors for the battery. I'll have to take the battery out and charge it with a battery charger from Hobby King.

Awesome thread & Forum BTW. Absolutely love all the information on here. Been looking for some real help, and just been a little nervous starting this project. But I would ABSOLUTELY LOVE to make my own box mod. You guys seem really smart and really easy going and seem to know your stuff. I currently own 1 Mechanical Mod, it's the Pure Copper Hades.

I mainly shop at McMaster-Carr, Lowes, etc. etc. for most of my stuff when it comes to building things.

I really cant give you any good info on the LiPo builds I like this thread too and would like to see other peoples boxes. Think Im goin dual 26650's in Hammond B box with usb charging next.

 

[Guest3123]

I really cant give you any good info on the LiPo builds I like this thread too and would like to see other peoples boxes. Think Im goin dual 26650's in Hammond B box with usb charging next.

Is the first circuit good though..? Did I get the picture..? Is that the same as this?

 

[Warhawk-AVG]

Yes, that image is correct for a basic wire up...you can use the metal tab on the top of the MOSFET as the drain, so the wire going to the 510 connector can come off the top

and Li Po batteries have VERY good high current C ratings

 

[Wabah58]

Anybody want to trade? I need a mosfet and resistor, can trade 8 magnets for box lids. I have too many magnets and no fets

 

[Dutzy]

My G box.

 

[Wabah58]

My G box.

Very Nice!

 

[Warhawk-AVG]

whoah, whoah, 14.8 vdc?!?!?

That is ALOT of volts...remember you must calculate the current flow based upon that elevated voltage

 

[Wabah58]

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=32710

How you going to charge it?

 

[Warhawk-AVG]

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=32710

How you going to charge it?

that one you posted is a standard 3.7vdc per the spec sheet...you can use one of those TP4056 boards

5A x 50C continuous....up to 250A continuous and up to 500A burst..you could damn near weld with that thing!

 

[Wabah58]

Yeah see lot of peeps using those batts for the sx350 baord builds.

Pic I found on net.

 

[Warhawk-AVG]

oh yeah..more than enough current capability for those 350watt rigs...hell 350 watts is barely making that thing break a sweat!

 

[Wabah58]

SX350 100 watt

 

[Guest3123]

What type of solder do I need for this? I've only soldered copper pipes before, for water. I've never soldered any wires or electronic components before. Can someone help me? Also.. what type of solder iron do I need.


If I use a LiPo, I'll probably charge it with a LiPo charger from Hobby King.

 

[Resnik]

That's what I've been using. Cheap and simple with a rosin core.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=4890-18Gvirtualkey59020000virtualkey590-4890-18G

Figured out the issue with my mosfet. A stray wire was making contact from the negative side of the battery sled. Put a small piece of plastic under and now it fires perfect.

 

[Wabah58]

Nice

 

[Randy Cobb]

anyone know where to get resistors at a decent price im looking to start my project soon and would like to find a good Price on some 15k .25 Resistors