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has anyone tried joyetech cuboid?
- Thread starter eddiegibson1981
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i'll buy your unused Cuboid for a lowball price.
Trade your used RX200 for a brand new cuboid in the box?!?
Just kidding man, Bucky205 is right. Ill just build around .2 for my carry around RDA's. 100w is more than good for those builds.
USA!
sounds good! my imaginary RX200
i might be one of the few ppl here w.o a RX200 !
Bucky205
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One place the Cuboid seems to shine is TC. On an RX 200 you can feel the power to the coil cut off sometimes while it is regulating the temp. The power regulation on the Cuboid seems much smoother.
USA!
sounds good! my imaginary RX200
i might be one of the few ppl here w.o a RX200 !
Vape On
Great to know since that is what I will be using it for.
Well that's really good to know! Power cuts off all the time on me on dual .15 SS coils at 600f even at various TCR settings. But sometimes works flawlessly at around 450-500 & a lot of times fails to detect when I switch out tanks.
Got fed up with TC on the RX. Maybe I'm just building too low, idk. Either way I'm happy that it works better on the cuboid cause that's primarily what I bought it for. I can live with the 25 amp limit if TC works without much frustration
Im the guy that like to vape a .12 at 120w normally and push that same build around 160-180w when Im feeling cloudy...a 71w/ .12 is rather ghostly and cooler which is why Im pretty pissed....If I find my manual to see where the bypass is Ill use that instead, I dont see Bypass mode in my settings when swapping modes so IDK what thats about...
I bought this device for its suggested 200w power mode...its not what I received as advertised...They should have said 200w over .2 ohms and then I would expected that instead.....1 this thing rocks at 60w, thats pretty pointless even for a dual parallel regulated mod. I guess I could downgrade it to the Firmware supporting the Bypass Mode....I shouldnt have to though...Maybe I can see in HxD how its written and just add it into the newer firmware...
Update: Firmware isnt viewable/readable in Hex, I will try to create a CUE File and Crack the BIN file...Hopefully I can view and edit and I may just create my own Firmware if I finish.
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Bucky205
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Whats strange is the Fuchai also supposedly has a 25 amp limit, but it can push the hell out of a .11 build. Something different in the PWM maybe. The Sigelei 150 TC, had a 35 amp limit, DNA200 has a 50 amp limit. I have tried to find the amp limits published on the RX200 and I haven't found them. I wonder if there is concern of frying the chip above 25 amps on the Cuboid?
I dont think so as it did have a Bypass mode in the earlier firmware and no one had issues then using it. I think I may down grade to the first firmware and wait until I can edit/manipulate the firmware myself and then Ill post my results and/or my edited Firmware if I can create my own CUE file and burn the image. Then afterwards it should be easy to open and edit the files inside to allow the bypass from the earlier firmware into the newer firmware.
I tried a Atlantis V2 Coilhead (.3 Ohm) and it let me go up to 140w....I find this a little bit of false advertising as they did say its a 200w mod..
I can fire my Snow Wolf even at .075 to 150w.....I may end up selling my black Cuboid when it arrives..if I dont make my own firmware
Hank. What build did you use to get your dual SS coils to read .32 Ohms? That's what I want to accomplish. I have 26ga 316L.
HG2s went in, no problem. No button rattle. Very happy
Hank F. Spankman
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Think it's 14 wraps. 3mm diameter
Thanks. 26 gauge? I have my new Griffin in front of me all cleaned and ready to coil up.Think it's 14 wraps. 3mm diameter
Hank F. Spankman
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Yerp, 26g, I think
Well my cuboid lasted about a week, today every time I put it down on a table or lightly pressed on the battery door the mod shuts off, I've barely even used it.
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vaporsavedme
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Yea its shitty, it was a gift too so I hope my gf can get it exchanged. Tbh I don't even want another one.
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Vapomizer
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Where did you buy your device from? directly from the US or from China? also around which time did you buy it? i am starting to develop a theory here that some batches are totally messed up (quality problems at the assembly line) while some other batches are solid, Yours and mine died after a week for different reasons, while other's Cuboids seem to be working perfectly, how was the condition of your mod right out of the box? did it look neat and new?
I am thinking that a replacement from the same batch or market region could not be a good idea, but a replacement from a different batch could prove to be solid, i need to contact Joyetech about this dilemma but with the Chinese holidays i am not expecting to get an answer in a good time based on which i could make a purchasing/replacement decision.
What are the differences when using bypass in mods with a single battery vs. mods with double batteries in series vs. mods with double parallel batteries?
With a single battery the calculations are easy, with two batteries in series vs. parallel how do you do the calculations?
Mine was bought 11 days ago from myvaporstore.com and when I got it the plastic screen protector was a little scratched, the bottom plate rattled and the fire button rattled like hell, otherwise it looked really nice and clean.
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Vapomizer
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What color is it? mine is black, could be that colors in high demand are more messed up than less demanding colors because the assembly line is more pressured to produce more of them.
most of the pictures of the solid Cuboids i have seen are either grey or silver, my screen was scratched as hell also, and the button also rattled a lot, aside from the battery door / battery connection issues you are having, do you or have ever got an "Atomizer Short" or "Atomizer not Found" error with otherwise perfectly working Atomizers? or got wrong resistance reading, or unstable resistance reading that randomly changes even without unscrewing the tank or changing anything in your coil setup?
Do you use a Kanger SUBTANK with it or any tank with a "floating" positive pin?
Mines black too, I did briefly had an arctic tank on it in temp control and while the fluctuations were small (.02) it was enough to screw up my temp settings. If I have to get another one hopefully I can get it in gray I guess.
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Vapomizer
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Here you go, there appears to be a pattern here, even though the sample of two people is not a statistically representative sample, still two black Cuboids suffering from similar assembly quality issues, i saw a picture of a grey Cuboid and it looks so perfect, nothing like the black one i have.
It is a very confusion situation, on one hand i love the "concept" of the Cuboid so much, great chip and functions, very nice OCD fonts and display, i actually like the bottom battery cover a lot, but on the other hand the button does not feel right, maybe its made this way for durability but the way it is designed just doesn't feel right and needs a revision, the fluctuating resistance used to happen to me all the time also, i am suspecting the 510 connection as well, the way it is designed or something, i tried finding some Cuboid disassembly/tear down videos but non exist so far, so that i could see what is up with the 510 and the button from the inside.
I have a similar feeling like you, i feel the product quality in general is trash but i still like the concept and design a lot, if Joyetech can just send me the parts and let me assemble them myself the final result would be so much better than what their hurried assembly line is doing.
What are you leaning towards? getting a replacement? different color? with this design the black really look the best, but the grey* is not that bad either, or should we just pass on that device until Joyetech makes a revision and get their shit together?
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It all depends on the return policy of where I ordered, I might just buy an rx200 if I can order something else, if not maybe gray. I can deal with all the other problems but the mod shutting off everytime I shut it down isn't right, and this hasn't been addressed but I'm sure everytime that pin moves in and out of contact there's battery arcing like on some tube mech buttons.Here you go, there appears to be a pattern here, even though the sample of two people is not a statistically representative sample, still two black Cuboids suffering from similar assembly quality issues, i saw a picture of a grey Cuboid and it looks so perfect, nothing like the black one i have.
It is a very confusion situation, on one hand i love the "concept" of the Cuboid so much, great chip and functions, very nice OCD fonts and display, i actually like the bottom battery cover a lot, but on the other hand the button does not feel right, maybe its made this way for durability but the way it is designed just doesn't feel right and needs a revision, the fluctuating resistance used to happen to me all the time also, i am suspecting the 510 connection as well, the way it is designed or something, i tried finding some Cuboid disassembly/tear down videos but non exist so far, so that i could see what is up with the 510 and the button from the inside.
I have a similar feeling like you, i feel the product quality in general is trash but i still like the concept and design a lot, if Joyetech can just send me the parts and let me assemble them myself the final result would be so much better than what their hurried assembly line is doing.
What are you leaning towards? getting a replacement? different color? with this design the black really look the best, but the grey* is not that bad either, or should we just pass on that device until Joyetech makes a revision and get their shit together?
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Vapomizer
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I don't know how it works with you guys in the US, but here in Europe you always have the choice to chose between a refund, a replacement of a similar or different product if the incident happens within 14-30 days from purchase, depending on the store, 14 days being a mandatory legal requirement unless the retailer is more generous and offers 30 days.
In your case i think it is a clear RMA case if for nothing else, for your own safety, and i think the retailer would not mind sending you a different product as a replacement since both the Cuboid and RX200 have similar prices.
Good luck and sorry for your experience, it feels bad when a gift from a special someone becomes defective so quickly
"All the other problems?" Only other problem I've heard about is the amperage limit. And the occasional cockeyed display alignment, I guess.
Battery door is latched firmly, I assume?
Personally, that battery door is one of the two things that gave me pause about the Cuboid. Do not like. Don't know why they didn't find a way to stick with the tried-and-true magnetically-secured battery compartment cover. The one on the eVic-VTC Mini r0x0rz. (Plus the magnets are handy when you're building, for picking up stray bits of Kanthal
.)
Vapomizer
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after giving it some thought i believe this mod can never and will never have bypass mode in any of its future firmware upgrades (could probably be even hardware locked) for the purpose of safety given that the batteries are setup in series.
With some Ohm's Law calculations, with the serial configuration at full charge the batteries will be outputting a combined 8.4V and are limited to 15-25A depending on what batteries you are using, with these numbers the safest build you can go with is 0.5 Ohms
0.4 Ohms will draw 21A already exceeding safety limits for most 18650s
0.3 Ohms will draw 28A already getting into the high risk territory
0.2 Ohms will draw 42A that is definitely a battery venting setup
0.1 Ohms will draw 84A this is like holding a grenade in your hand ready to explode at a button click
Based on this understanding i think that this device will never have bypass mode in any of its future updates.
Correct me if i understand this wrong though
The button rattle on a brand new mod isn't something I'm used to, and the resistance moving around in temp control, but that could very well be my crappy arctic tank coil. I had been hesitant on the battery door but the size sold me, and not having to buy another charger like I would for the rx 200"All the other problems?" Only other problem I've heard about is the amperage limit. And the occasional cockeyed display alignment, I guess.
Battery door is latched firmly, I assume?
Personally, that battery door is one of the two things that gave me pause about the Cuboid. Do not like. Don't know why they didn't find a way to stick with the tried-and-true magnetically-secured battery compartment cover. The one on the eVic-VTC Mini r0x0rz. (Plus the magnets are handy when you're building, for picking up stray bits of Kanthal
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after giving it some thought i believe this mod can never and will never have bypass mode in any of its future firmware upgrades (could probably be even hardware locked) for the purpose of safety given that the batteries are setup in series.
With some Ohm's Law calculations, with the serial configuration at full charge the batteries will be outputting a combined 8.4V and are limited to 15-25A depending on what batteries you are using, with these numbers the safest build you can go with is 0.5 Ohms
0.4 Ohms will draw 21A already exceeding safety limits for most 18650s
0.3 Ohms will draw 28A already getting into the high risk territory
0.2 Ohms will draw 42A that is definitely a battery venting setup
0.1 Ohms will draw 84A this is like holding a grenade in your hand ready to explode at a button click
Based on this understanding i think that this device will never have bypass mode in any of its future updates.
Correct me if i understand this wrong though
I'm thinking your math is for straight up calc.s for Power Mode Max Wattage? Even with my Velocity I only run 50 or 60 watts. Why I bought this for is TC vaping. And it does that very well. The cubiod has a amp read out in it's menu.
With the Atlantis V2, Ni200, 1.5 ohm pill installed, 50 watts, 500f I never see more than a 12 amp.
With the Herakles Plus, 316SS, 2.0 ohm pill installed, 50 watts, 500f I never see more than 14 amp.
With the Velocity Clone, Kanthal, 3.5 ohm, 24ga coils, 50 watts 12 amp, 60 watts 13.6 amp.
All amp readings take off the units built in display.
I prefer my vape to be cool to just slightly warm. I tune for the middle ground between flavor and cloud. The mod will get very warm to flat out hot if I chain vape the hell out of it just like my other mods.
I just don'r see your concerns about amps/voltage has valid. Fact is it's built for control of such concerns. I don't see the Cubiod to be lacking. I flat out don't see it as a battery abuser/venter.
Vapomizer
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Have you tried the same tank in another mod and the resistance was also fluctuating? i do not believe it is the coil/tank, the 510 on this device is erratic, because my resistance was also fluctuating a lot without me even touching the tank, i am really wanting to tear it apart and look what is going on with the 510 from the inside but then i lose the opportunity to send it back and get a refund, if i bought it from China for $35 bucks i would have definitely done that for the sake of science, but this is not the case unfortunately.
Is any other Cuboid owners having this same phenomena? fluctuating resistance with atomizers that work flawlessly in other mods?
Vapomizer
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I agree there is no need for bypass with this mod for normal everyday vaping, this post and the calculations was addressed to those who are expecting this device to add a bypass mode in future firmware upgrade to allow the battery output to go to the coil directly bypassing all the regulation features of the chip.
I just think that this device will never have bypass mode because it will be too risky with the series batteries inside to work this way based on these calculations.
My button rattles also. Not a deal breaker.
No issues with ohms floating around. If it changes in power mode be it a oem coil/pill or my build in the Velocity. It has changed when I test it. When in a TC mode it's locked down.
I like the battery door. A good old latch! Reminds me of battery doors on my toys in the 1960's.
Vapomizer
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Did the eVIC VTC Mini's button rattle also if you own one? the problem seems to be that there is no rubber padding housing the button, it is just metal on metal, why did they go with this design choice? does it provide increased durability? because this button would probably be clicked tens of thousands of times during the lifetime of the device, does the eVIC Mini button fails pre-maturely so they decided to go with a metal on metal design with the Cuboid?
It may never have a Bypass mode, Most of us who vape at .3 and under were expecting much more from the device, as it advertises 200w.Lol
.11 ohms
23 amps draw
Remember on a series box mod amp Is split, and there's a chip in the cuboid that regulates it, that's why it's called
REGULATED BOX MOD!!
if u want bypass just use a mech mod...
Vape On
The reason half of the people that bought the mod expected it to be like many other competing regulated 200w devices, only to find that its a limited ranged 200w and steps down under .43.
A device with a 25A input isnt condemned to output 25A and it wasnt mentioned that the output was limited to 25A, it could of used a Voltage Regulator to output twice that (roughly). This is why I was looking to add the bypass from earlier Firmware as I heard it had it in earlier versions, then I tried to find a string/line to adjust the limit if it was a software limit.
Ive said all of this already and people only seem to read bits and continually mention those bits...please read everything before posting, its tiresome to repeat everything more then once...
Vapomizer
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I apologize for not noticing that your search for bypass with this device was motivated by its 25A limitation, the part I am confused about is that you mentioned many times that competing regulated 200W devices have a higher than 25A output limit, but my mod research the past couple of days is showing that all mods released in the past couple of months with 150-200W output seem to all have the same exact limit, the wismec classic 150W is an example.
Can you name a few newly released competing two battery 150W+ mods which has a higher amp limit and what this limit is set at?
Where are you seeing the OUTPUT Amperage Limit of these mods? The information Im reading about these are Input only. and thats not relative.
Snow Wolfs
Sigelei 150/200
IPV 3 LI
IPV 4/4S
Smok Xcube
SMY mods (theres about 10 of them)
There inputs range from 25A-30A but the output is stepped up to 35A-40A.
Just about any other mod except the Joytech/Wismec Devices has a higher limit, even if it is just 5-10 more Amps. Thats why only now people are noticing amp limits on regulated mods.
Vapomizer
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Very interesting information, so in general all mods using Joyetech's RX chip have the 25A OUTPUT limit? Which seem to have market dominance This includes the Cuboids, eVic, the Wismecs and new Vaporflask and the new istick?
Problem is that the products you posted could in a sense not be considered competing or even from the same generation as the RX chip based mods, no TCR, no native SS316 support, not firmware upgradable, does not have the smooth and sophisticated software functionality and the information-full OCD.
But this is indeed very good to know, makes the iStick TC100W much more attractive in my eyes, should provide a "true" 100W output and also has bypass mode, even though it most probably uses the RX chip as well.
Most of the Chips that are Variants of the Cuboids should have that limit, its the only limit I see people actually commenting about.
I used Wattage mode mainly so thats how I categorized it...not for extra features but for the wattage/resistance limit. Thats what got them all in the same Category but I understand why you didnt see why though.
The Classic Vaporflask was on my list of next buys...but if its got the 25A output ,limit Ill pass, for now atleast..Im just dipping my toes into SS now so that could change later on. Same with that New Istick 100 Express....
I am actually looking at the Hohm Wrecker G2...those specs amaze me and if it does everything listed it may be the best specc'd box besides DNA200s.
Well SS is slightly half the resistance of Kanthal if Im not mistaken...a Kanthal .4 build would be warm around 40-50 watts, but Im not 100% positive this scenario is correct.
Thanks. I'm trying to figure out around what temp I should be vaping in SS316 mode.
What ever is perfect for you, there isnt a magic number and everyone's numbers are different....I may like a .13 Ohm build at 140w, you may like a .5 Ohm build at 50w....Adjust to taste and find your sweet spot.
Thanks. I'll play around with the temp.
Thanks africamonk. That was the perfect starting point for me. Now I have a better handle on it.start at 400 , work your way up
now if stupid USPS would move my packages ....
I just bought a second cuboid. I couldn't help myself. I was looking to get another vtc mini, and they were more expensive. I have no self control.
