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Mech mod for sub ohm tanks?
- Thread starter kennethk1
- Start date
Have any in mind that will work with 26650 and are future proof for sub ohm tanks that may come out? I may upgrade to the herkales sub ohm tank not sure if using .2 ohms would be a good idea.
How about the Hades Clone with the Herkales tank
If you have a 30 amp+ battery, .2 is fine. A 26650 will give your more vape time, but not necessarily better safety. I build my Kanger and Lemo's to .3-.5 Ohm and get a kick ass vape on a mech. There is no need to go too low with these tanks.
The other option is to get a HexOhm V2 110Watt mod. It's good down to .2, and the vape is just like a freshly charged mech, plus you get the power of 2 18650's. It's worth considering. It's a bite in the ass $$ wise, but an investment that pays off. I love mine big time.
The other option is to get a HexOhm V2 110Watt mod. It's good down to .2, and the vape is just like a freshly charged mech, plus you get the power of 2 18650's. It's worth considering. It's a bite in the ass $$ wise, but an investment that pays off. I love mine big time.
Well the battery I went with is this one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/26160282388...49&var=560477858350&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
with this mod
http://www.ebay.com/itm/19154158978...49&var=490620185444&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I should probably keep my builds obove .7 then?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/26160282388...49&var=560477858350&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
with this mod
http://www.ebay.com/itm/19154158978...49&var=490620185444&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I should probably keep my builds obove .7 then?
EthelMaltol
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I think you would be much better off with an 18650 mod.
Just curious as to what makes the hybrid connector special in this case?
EthelMaltol
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Improperly connecting a tank to a hybrid will cause a hard short, aka, you WILL be in the news.
What is a hybrid connector? I haven't even heard of them up till nowImproperly connecting a tank to a hybrid will cause a hard short, aka, you WILL be in the news.
It's where your atomizer has a direct connect to the battery such as these. You have to make sure the positive post protrudes out far enough to touch the battery without the negative post touching too. If the negative touches the battery, you will short circuit the battery and have potential big problems.
The good thing about a hybrid style mod, is the voltage drop is very low, thus better energy transfer to your coils, and generally a better vape
Smpl on the left, Praxis on the right
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EthelMaltol
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Basically, you skip the 510 connection and your tank hooks directly to the battery. They will blow up or vent if you use the wrong tank. Whatever is on top needs to have a long positive pin which connects to the baattery, not the negative. Its best to stay away, imo. Advanced vapers like them as there is no voltage drop. Nothing between your device and battery. Originally they were sold together as a set. Now, you can get a hybrid device and stick anything on top, which is how people are getting into trouble. If you get a regulated device, you will not see vvoltage drop, you can set it where you like it and it will stay that way. With a mech, your first pulls on a fresh battery will be stronger. The performance will continue to drop until you change your battery.
madmonkey
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Ha, I miss that show....but on a serious note I like your diagrams and your meme...I am admitting t stealing them for future reference use...they should be used in every "hi I'm new to mechs and gots a hybrid" thread for demonstration purposes. Another thing you have to watch out for with a hybrid connector isn't that just the center pin sticks out a good way past the 510 threading but also that it is sturdy....a soft copper screw can be pushed in and warped from being pushed up against the battery to snug over and over again....found that out with the Manta V2...even using the right size flathead screwdriver to tweak it rubs the silver off and warps the copper...it's sad really because it had the potential to be such a kick ass atty and has excellent flavor, some of the best flavor and it's got that top slot air design so you can overdrip and be good...but it ended up being a disappointing time bomb...
JD Tech advertises it to be a hybrid connection style with their Stingray XTI but the truth is I got a second one just because I had to know what went wrong and the screw on the second one couldn't be loosened enough to even safely connect with a battery hybrid style without compromising the security of the positive post in the atty. Scarey stuff.
I've never used a hades, but I would assume it would be fine since it's not a hybrid style, and has an adjustable contact pin on the cap
That sucks about the Manta, especially being an authentic atty
madmonkey
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yeah I was pretty pissed
But thank you....it did have a silver lining...it made a great PSA on here to emphasise that anything can go wrong for anyone, even if you know what you're doing and why knowing battery safety and ohm's law and all these other things we go on about over and over again really do matter. I got another one, two actually, and one of them I could in theory use with a hybrid connection the way the screw sits and other I can't. And I am fine with that...it's a killer flavor atty, it's not meant for cloud chasing and I still love it...despite the first one resting in piece 
I completely agree... Any sub tank should be paired up with a regulated device... I use my Atlantis/Arctic with my Sigelei, K Sub Tank with my Vaporshark rdna40 w/nickel coils.
Yeah 26650 batteries aren't good enough yet... I love them simply because I like 28/30mm attys. So I use my Authentic King Kong and Fat Buddha/Tobh etc for dripping. Bottom line is unless you are dripping you shouldn't go with a 26650 mod.
I have a lot of 26650 mech mods...and my favorite so far, surprisingly, is the copper Bonfire clone from 88evape. I got it for about $15.
I love my EHPro Seeker, but the button design doesn't lend itself to being out and about.
I find the Bonfire to be easy to adjust, and I love the button/lockring assembly... It stays locked and the bottom pin doesn't unscrew.
Perfect throw, for me.
I did take it apart and grease the threads wit Noalox, and I plan to drill some 3/32 vent holes in the top, but I love the mod.
I put an Atlantis Mega on top,and I've hardly dripped since I paired the two...
I have only purchased MNKE orange.
I buy them from Lighthound. They are a trusted source and they have the best prices I have found.
I would never buy batteries off eBay...never.
I love my EHPro Seeker, but the button design doesn't lend itself to being out and about.
I find the Bonfire to be easy to adjust, and I love the button/lockring assembly... It stays locked and the bottom pin doesn't unscrew.
Perfect throw, for me.
I did take it apart and grease the threads wit Noalox, and I plan to drill some 3/32 vent holes in the top, but I love the mod.
I put an Atlantis Mega on top,and I've hardly dripped since I paired the two...
I have only purchased MNKE orange.
I buy them from Lighthound. They are a trusted source and they have the best prices I have found.
I would never buy batteries off eBay...never.
I don't think I'd go that far. I use sub-ohm tanks (subtank and isub) on an 18650 tube mech mod all the time - works fine. As far as the mech is concerned, there's no difference between running a 0.5 ohm coil in a tank vs. a 0.5 ohm dripper. (This is, of course, assuming you know what you're doing. And stay away from hybrid mods for tanks.)
Ummm... Yeah there is. A tank coil can't wick like a dripper. That is why sending 4.2v to a .5 atomizer ends in a burnt coil. Now if you are using 50/50 juice it might keep up but not a Max VG
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I guess we just have to agree to disagree. I use Max VG (80-89% VG) all the time.
madmonkey
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Since when does sending 4.2 volts to a coil mean it's automatically fried? I've built several coils over the years of all kinds of resistances that would disprove that theory in a New York Second....and you shouldn't use Max VG in most tanks any way since they're not designed for it...what kind of mod you're using has nothing to do with what PG/VG ratio your coil is designed to handle. If that was the case we would have never been able to use cartomizers in tanks in the first place
I push 4 volts to my Kanger Subtank coils with a Vaporshark all the time...technically you'd continually be pushing less and less voltage to a coil with a mech mod as the battery dies. That's why running a sub ohm tank on a regulated device is preferable...so you can "fine tune" your setting and get the same repeated vape over and over again and not a constant change in vape quality as the battery dies.
The only inherent risk of running a sub ohm tank on a tube mech is if you tried to run it on a hybrid connection you would short it out as most of not all sub ohm tank center pins are NOT DESIGNED FOR HYBRID CONNECTIONS. Do I have everyone's attention? Good, because I found a video and posted it here not that long ago of an idiot that did just that and then couldn't figure out why the damn thing vented and shot into his ceiling and set his apartment on fire.
Other than that...as long as you run a battery with the appropriate continuous drain rating for the tanks coil (a 22 amp continuous drain rated or higher for a .2 ohm coil for example just like for a dripper,) the only real danger of running a sub ohm tank on a mech with a standard top cap you run is a crappy vape from a dying battery as the day goes on....just like a dripper.
Since when does sending 4.2 volts to a coil mean it's automatically fried? I've built several coils over the years of all kinds of resistances that would disprove that theory in a New York Second....and you shouldn't use Max VG in most tanks any way since they're not designed for it...what kind of mod you're using has nothing to do with what PG/VG ratio your coil is designed to handle. If that was the case we would have never been able to use cartomizers in tanks in the first place
I push 4 volts to my Kanger Subtank coils with a Vaporshark all the time...technically you'd continually be pushing less and less voltage to a coil with a mech mod as the battery dies. That's why running a sub ohm tank on a regulated device is preferable...so you can "fine tune" your setting and get the same repeated vape over and over again and not a constant change in vape quality as the battery dies.
The only inherent risk of running a sub ohm tank on a tube mech is if you tried to run it on a hybrid connection you would short it out as most of not all sub ohm tank center pins are NOT DESIGNED FOR HYBRID CONNECTIONS. Do I have everyone's attention? Good, because I found a video and posted it here not that long ago of an idiot that did just that and then couldn't figure out why the damn thing vented and shot into his ceiling and set his apartment on fire.
Other than that...as long as you run a battery with the appropriate continuous drain rating for the tanks coil (a 22 amp continuous drain rated or higher for a .2 ohm coil for example just like for a dripper,) the only real danger of running a sub ohm tank on a mech with a standard top cap you run is a crappy vape from a dying battery as the day goes on....just like a dripper.
1. Who ever said anything about building coils? The conversation was about using a .5 coil from the manufacturer.
2. The question was about using a mech mod with a sub tank. So yes a device can dictate the type of juice you will use if you can't prevent it from putting out less than 4 - 4.1 Volts. *Cartos were sub ohm? Lol
3. The mixture of pg/vg of your juice matters because the thinner juice is clearly going to be able to wick faster (ie prevent the wick from getting toasty) That being said you clearly didn't read the convo because we are only talking about sub ohm tanks. Obviously the tank (rather the coil) dictates what kind of juice you will be able to run through it.
3. The reason people use sub ohm style tanks is to step into the high VG juice world. But Max VG can mean 35/65 to 5/95. So the ratio matters if you can't control the power.
Oh and yeah hybrid top caps aren't smart with anything that has a flush pin... Be it a tank or a rba
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NemesisVaper
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4.2V on a 0.5 ohm coil is 35W. On a mech, as soon as you hit the fire button you'll get voltage drop. I estimate to about 3.9-4V. That gives you pretty much bang on 30W, which is what I've found to be the max wattage I can use on my Subtank with the old coils. The new 0.5 I can comfortably take to 50W, making the mech grossly UNDER powered.
I use my Smok VCT on a mech. 0.24ohm coils (on average) which is 73W (more like 65 after voltage droop). That is UNDER powered too. The VCT coils will wick pure vegetable glycerine perfectly fine at 80W with no dry hits. I've done it.
Sub ohm tank tech has moved on. The new Smok TFV4 will do max VG at 130W with the tri coil and quad coil head. They too would be under powered in a mech.
Sub ohm tanks are fine on mech mods. All you need do is take the max wattage you can run regulated and back track to see if 4.2V is usable. In most cases it is. I've had worse experiences on rebuildable tanks. My Goblin is good around 35W but the build gave me 40W on a mech, which did get very dry. Still nothing major, just take shorter pulls until the battery dies off a bit.
Nothing at all wrong with sub ohm tanks on a mech, with a little thought they work just fine. Newer gen ones may be underpowered though, even built at 0.25 ohms.
I use my Smok VCT on a mech. 0.24ohm coils (on average) which is 73W (more like 65 after voltage droop). That is UNDER powered too. The VCT coils will wick pure vegetable glycerine perfectly fine at 80W with no dry hits. I've done it.
Sub ohm tank tech has moved on. The new Smok TFV4 will do max VG at 130W with the tri coil and quad coil head. They too would be under powered in a mech.
Sub ohm tanks are fine on mech mods. All you need do is take the max wattage you can run regulated and back track to see if 4.2V is usable. In most cases it is. I've had worse experiences on rebuildable tanks. My Goblin is good around 35W but the build gave me 40W on a mech, which did get very dry. Still nothing major, just take shorter pulls until the battery dies off a bit.
Nothing at all wrong with sub ohm tanks on a mech, with a little thought they work just fine. Newer gen ones may be underpowered though, even built at 0.25 ohms.
The VOCC weren't out when that was written (for the sub tank)
The horizontal coils worked good around 18 - 20 watts w/ thick juice. I've seen a lot of thinned out "Max VG" juice from a lot of companies. Whether it is a bit of water or any other methods in reducing viscosity of 85-95 VG juice that is used I could see it working. But that is why my whole point about this convo was always
Can you? Yes
Is it safe? Not really to definitely not (based on knowledge of mechs)
Would I? No
Would I EVER suggest or post something on a public forum to do something that could potentially harm them (not to mention give the govt and big pharm another headline)? NOPE
When I post I do so assuming that the person reading has no knowledge and is getting to the post via a Google search...
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The horizontal coils worked good around 18 - 20 watts w/ thick juice. I've seen a lot of thinned out "Max VG" juice from a lot of companies. Whether it is a bit of water or any other methods in reducing viscosity of 85-95 VG juice that is used I could see it working. But that is why my whole point about this convo was always
Can you? Yes
Is it safe? Not really to definitely not (based on knowledge of mechs)
Would I? No
Would I EVER suggest or post something on a public forum to do something that could potentially harm them (not to mention give the govt and big pharm another headline)? NOPE
When I post I do so assuming that the person reading has no knowledge and is getting to the post via a Google search...
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NemesisVaper
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There is the exact same safety risk as using an RDA built to the same ohms , as long as the mech isn't a hybrid. We both know the dangers of a hybrid and a sub ohm tank. Then again, a dripper without a protruding pin is just as bad.
No safety issues other than watching battery safety and ohms law on standard topcap mechs. My Nemesis standard topcap has a 510 that screws up to meet the atty pin. It meets recessed pins and protruding ones with the same amount of safety.
It's hybrid topcap s and sub ohm tanks that are a bad combo, mechs and sub ohm tanks do great. Zero different e between them and an RDA.
No safety issues other than watching battery safety and ohms law on standard topcap mechs. My Nemesis standard topcap has a 510 that screws up to meet the atty pin. It meets recessed pins and protruding ones with the same amount of safety.
It's hybrid topcap s and sub ohm tanks that are a bad combo, mechs and sub ohm tanks do great. Zero different e between them and an RDA.
Nope no difference... Oh wait besides Boiling VG and an exploding tank... Lmao
A venting battery is the least of your problems when 3 to 8 mls of boiling vegetable oil and glass shards enter the equation.
This is exactly what I'm talking about. Not to mention the pin on Atlantis' etc happen to float and have the tendency to stick while pushed in after being used frequently.
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A venting battery is the least of your problems when 3 to 8 mls of boiling vegetable oil and glass shards enter the equation.
This is exactly what I'm talking about. Not to mention the pin on Atlantis' etc happen to float and have the tendency to stick while pushed in after being used frequently.
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In comes the intelligence... Wonderful addition to the conversation Boom... Well thought out
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NemesisVaper
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I can see why he's a bit frustrated with you though. Boiling vegetable glycerine?
Like I say, it matters zero where the pin is. It can get stuck so it's 4mm behind the threads, on a normal top cap mech the pin will float to make connection, or you'll just have to screw the contact pin up more. Worst case, the tank just won't fire. It can't and won't short out
I'm all for safety but... You know when you read something, a post, and think to yourself "what the fuck is he on about?" respectfully, I'm having a "what the fuck is he on about" moment now.
Very well intentioned, but Obsidian, bud, ain't no danger. My rebuildable tanks, are they ok to use? I got a clone plume veil that's got a recessed pin and a decent juice well, will that explode in a sticky ball of glycerine, battery juice and fiery death?
We all need to keep stressing hybrid = protruding and fixed pin. Definitely. My mech is not a hybrid unless I chose for it to be. With a sub ohm tank I would never chose to use the hybrid cap just as I wouldn't on my Plume Veil clone.
Like I say, it matters zero where the pin is. It can get stuck so it's 4mm behind the threads, on a normal top cap mech the pin will float to make connection, or you'll just have to screw the contact pin up more. Worst case, the tank just won't fire. It can't and won't short out
I'm all for safety but... You know when you read something, a post, and think to yourself "what the fuck is he on about?" respectfully, I'm having a "what the fuck is he on about" moment now.
Very well intentioned, but Obsidian, bud, ain't no danger. My rebuildable tanks, are they ok to use? I got a clone plume veil that's got a recessed pin and a decent juice well, will that explode in a sticky ball of glycerine, battery juice and fiery death?
We all need to keep stressing hybrid = protruding and fixed pin. Definitely. My mech is not a hybrid unless I chose for it to be. With a sub ohm tank I would never chose to use the hybrid cap just as I wouldn't on my Plume Veil clone.
Look closely and you'll see I modified the pin on the Arctic base to work SAFELY on my stainless BFM with the hybrid top cap..
I pushed the pin out of the base, screwed a upside down top cap on the 510... filed off a few threads, and cleaned up the threads by simply unscrewing the top cap...now the pin protrudes about 2mm..
With the .2 ohm Arctic coil it vapes great!..
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I pushed the pin out of the base, screwed a upside down top cap on the 510... filed off a few threads, and cleaned up the threads by simply unscrewing the top cap...now the pin protrudes about 2mm..
With the .2 ohm Arctic coil it vapes great!..
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NemesisVaper
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Of course I can't see and inspect it, but if it's as solid as it looks and can never get to the point of going beyond flush with the 510 - I approve of this modification. Is it stable side to side with no wobble? If so perfect.Look closely and you'll see I modified the pin on the Arctic base to work SAFELY on my stainless BFM with the hybrid top cap..
I pushed the pin out of the base, screwed a upside down top cap on the 510... filed off a few threads, and cleaned up the threads by simply unscrewing the top cap...now the pin protrudes about 2mm..
With the .2 ohm Arctic coil it vapes great!..
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Been using it offshore tuna fishing, lol
Pin can't push up as its tight against the base of the coil and tight in the insulator....
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vapedick
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Don't use vegetable oil and it won't boil. Why would anything in the tank boil??
The whole point is to warn new people about the risks involved. For those of us who already know everything that can happen (either by reading, testing or learned the hard way in the early days) this is nothing new.
Yes the obvious advice is to never use anything with a recessed pin w/ a hybrid top cap. I just also wanted to point out that just because your rda/rta/etc might not be recessed out of the box it can become flush/recessed after use.
As we all know mechanical devices require more respect and understanding. When a short happens (for whatever reason) it is much more obvious with an rda over a tank.
I agree with you though. The juice that is on your wick and in your juice well will become just as hot as the juice in your tank. I never said otherwise.
But unlike an rda, a tank doesn't have a large chamber or open airflow around the coil(s) for heat to dissipate. That combined with a coil that is submerged in juice. Held inside a tank that has no way to allow the juice & gas to expand if it gets superheated.
Best case, the juice overwhelms the wick/bottom airflow and shoots out there. Serious burns but mainly just on arms/legs.
Worst case it does happen to crack/spray the juice everywhere.
The reason why I used that as a point to lead into not using a tank on any mech (mainly just bottom button tube mods) is simply because I've seen the juice burns from a non vented battery situation happen far too many times. Simply due to user error (not locking button) or a collapsed spring/magnet...
With a regulated device it'll detect any short and not fire. Not to mention the built in idiot proofing and location of the fire button *not* being where you set the device on.
Gets hot, expands, can't escape, and reaches that heat threshold... When it finally does find a route out it sprays and isn't like hot water... It sticks and burns.
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vapedick
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Vegetable OIL? Why are you vaping that?
Why would juice not be able to escape? What kind of sealed tank are you using?? If vapor can get out, juice can get out without pressure pushing it out.
Your warnings to new vapers are insane.
I understand the hybrid mod: tank 510 problems, but boiling vegetable oil?? WTF are you talking about???
Newbies..... Do not take his advice, he vapes oil. Do NOT do that.
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VG has the same consistency of Vegetable Oil was the point. Useful for those that don't handle it or understand it on it's own. Viscosity and heat retention...
Oh and if you really don't understand the workings of a tank don't give advice about them...
The chimney on a tank surrounded by Juice vs an open deck is beyond self explanatory (even though I already explained it earlier and for some reason you still don't get it)
Just wondering what kind of non sealed tank you are using lmao... *Adds juice then watches it drain into his lap* repeats? We've got ourselves a genius folks
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Customer... Stingray X and an Atlantis 2
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But ya I hear ya... I must definitely be one of "those" guys
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We already know hybrid top caps plus sub ohm tanks easily result in shorted batteries, shit overheating and tanks getting launched by venting cells. But to say using any sub ohm tank with any mech is a recipe for disaster is ridiculous. Believe what you want. You're not convincing anyone of your nonsense.