I have 4 different places for wire.
Damn.....I have 4 different places for wire.
Top of my build desk - the rows are 3 deep
The wire I use most frequently within arms reach: 26,27,28,29 KA1; 36, 38, 40, 42 N80
One spool each of most other commonly used gauges and alloys, as well as some ribbon
More backups - the 3.5 floppy holders hold standard sized spools, and the 5.25 are great for KP sized spools.
i have been saying i wanna try that for months now lol 
Not as bad as it seems huh?!? Is that .2?
@Pegleg Meg @CrazyChef v2.0 @mach1ne @raymo2u @The_hat_trix
Those are amazing shots Meg.
@Pegleg Meg @CrazyChef v2.0 @mach1ne @raymo2u @The_hat_trix
If you saw the condition of my spoils and my build station, you would petition to have me banned for life.
Beautiful work! Very clean and colorful.
Interlock fralien 2x30g, 12x.3r, 2x36g
Braidator Staple 8x.3r, 5 loop 36g
View attachment 124087
Fairly decent single binded enigma. Doing a good one can give you a sense of satisfaction no matter how you do them. They definitely require a lot of effort, trial, and error. I was happy with that way this one came out. It’s nice to know you can still try some fancies even when you have time restrictions.
Playing with a mixture of kanta1 and ss316
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
IM STEALING THAT!!! It's so damn beautiful. Was it razorback? doesn't look like it. If it's a decore then it's a hedgehog. The macro is definitely a hedgehog .. But the pull back looks like a double twist tsuka.
Your stags can't be short at all. Have to fuse pretty damn slow, or at least I have to. Every time I try to speed up I end up with the para split like you have there. Other than that there's not a trick to it.
what method are you using? got spools in baggies or pre-cut lengths or something else?
Just roll with it. I like the look of flat ribbon. It's a little spitty of a vape but not terrible.
fire build famIt actually rolled completely, and looks like I maybe stacked my ribbon sideways on purpose
Specs are 34g ss, 2x40ss (inside) and 2x40k (outside), 0.3 ribbon mixed, 26g n80 frames (big mistake, should have done 28 or smaller)
View attachment 124117 View attachment 124118 View attachment 124119
View attachment 124121
This was exhausting but dang I'm happy with myself
looks like you figured out para-fuse...what was the adjustment that made the difference?
Wait ... 36 is .12 and 2x 40 is .16. Shouldn't be 34 and 40 or 36 and 42? Not trying to call you out. Just want to make sure I didn't miss something in translation there.I like my method for paraclapping, it makes it quick and easy.
Take 2 spools, take 2 plastic ziplock baggies, put one spool in one bag and pull the wire out of the bag.
You can seal them 1/3 of the way to ensure the spools stay in the bag while using them.
Set both baggies standing up inside a small box and set at your feet.
Attack both wires to you core, make sure they are side by side then pinch about 2 inches from the core and slide your fingers down them until your about 6"-9" away from the core.
WASH YOUR HANDS WITH SOAP AND WARM WATER, this makes the wire slip through without snagging.
Start your drill and hold at JUST FORWARD of 90 degrees, try using the smallest amount of tension you can while still keeping the wire parallel and tight, the changes in tension may pull the wire downwards and this changes the angle of the paraclap at a microscopic level...this is one variable that can cause weaving and the more it happens the more noticeable the weaving will be when fusing.
Slide the box holding the spools as you go down your wire with your feet, when you done just cut the strands just above the tops of the baggies and they will remained spooled and ready for next time. Cut one strand on the core shorter than the other, this makes for easy removable of either strand from the core.
You can Parafuse the same way, the angle and tension is the main factor in it all working. USe 36g as one strand in your original paraclap (Example: 40g + 36g Paraclap) and when fusing the 36g gap use 2x40g.
I like my method for paraclapping, it makes it quick and easy.
Take 2 spools, take 2 plastic ziplock baggies, put one spool in one bag and pull the wire out of the bag.
You can seal them 1/3 of the way to ensure the spools stay in the bag while using them.
Set both baggies standing up inside a small box and set at your feet.
Attack both wires to you core, make sure they are side by side then pinch about 2 inches from the core and slide your fingers down them until your about 6"-9" away from the core.
WASH YOUR HANDS WITH SOAP AND WARM WATER, this makes the wire slip through without snagging.
Start your drill and hold at JUST FORWARD of 90 degrees, try using the smallest amount of tension you can while still keeping the wire parallel and tight, the changes in tension may pull the wire downwards and this changes the angle of the paraclap at a microscopic level...this is one variable that can cause weaving and the more it happens the more noticeable the weaving will be when fusing.
Slide the box holding the spools as you go down your wire with your feet, when you done just cut the strands just above the tops of the baggies and they will remained spooled and ready for next time. Cut one strand on the core shorter than the other, this makes for easy removable of either strand from the core.
You can Parafuse the same way, the angle and tension is the main factor in it all working. USe 36g as one strand in your original paraclap (Example: 40g + 36g Paraclap) and when fusing the 36g gap use 2x40g.
Thanks to your tips @Pegleg MegWow, you did a super staggerton, even more awesome than I was expecting!
Both awesome builds, man...I'll braid something like that, maybe next year?
Sweet enigma, man
Flavor monsters! Pretty, too
Nice... @Pegleg Meg told me about the bags alsoI like my method for paraclapping, it makes it quick and easy.
Take 2 spools, take 2 plastic ziplock baggies, put one spool in one bag and pull the wire out of the bag.
You can seal them 1/3 of the way to ensure the spools stay in the bag while using them.
Set both baggies standing up inside a small box and set at your feet.
Attack both wires to you core, make sure they are side by side then pinch about 2 inches from the core and slide your fingers down them until your about 6"-9" away from the core.
WASH YOUR HANDS WITH SOAP AND WARM WATER, this makes the wire slip through without snagging.
Start your drill and hold at JUST FORWARD of 90 degrees, try using the smallest amount of tension you can while still keeping the wire parallel and tight, the changes in tension may pull the wire downwards and this changes the angle of the paraclap at a microscopic level...this is one variable that can cause weaving and the more it happens the more noticeable the weaving will be when fusing.
Slide the box holding the spools as you go down your wire with your feet, when you done just cut the strands just above the tops of the baggies and they will remained spooled and ready for next time. Cut one strand on the core shorter than the other, this makes for easy removable of either strand from the core.
You can Parafuse the same way, the angle and tension is the main factor in it all working. USe 36g as one strand in your original paraclap (Example: 40g + 36g Paraclap) and when fusing the 36g gap use 2x40g.
Nice... @Pegleg Meg told me about the bags also
Just one thing. When you mean to hold just forward 90 degrees means the hand holding the wires will be just a tiny bit near the swivels? Like an alien? Or the opposite, a tiny bit near the chuck?
Thanks for the hints man, helps a lot, as always
Best.
90 degrees from the core, a perfect right angle from where the wire is attacked to the core. The wire should be pulled straight down from your core, making a right angle....hold it just a degree or 2 towards the swivels from 90 degrees as you travel down the wire....thats what I meant.Nice... @Pegleg Meg told me about the bags also
Just one thing. When you mean to hold just forward 90 degrees means the hand holding the wires will be just a tiny bit near the swivels? Like an alien? Or the opposite, a tiny bit near the chuck?
Thanks for the hints man, helps a lot, as always
Best.
Im not one for using math or anything when I build...trial and error has always been my friend....what it seems on paper has not what Ive dealt with IRL....just like the battery conversation.
Good to know. I'm a numbers guy, always have been for everything. Maybe I should venture a bit away from them to learn new things
Super cool!It actually rolled completely, and looks like I maybe stacked my ribbon sideways on purpose
Specs are 34g ss, 2x40ss (inside) and 2x40k (outside), 0.3 ribbon mixed, 26g n80 frames (big mistake, should have done 28 or smaller)
View attachment 124117 View attachment 124118 View attachment 124119
View attachment 124121
This was exhausting but dang I'm happy with myself
That skip fuse with the two smaller gauges in the other fuse is incredible. I’ve never seen that done before. Admittedly I haven’t really been keeping up cause (I sound like a broken record) I’ve been crazy busy. You have officially taken off to some next level stuff. Keep at it kid! Love your work!
Meg’s on some next level sh*t right now.fire build fam
Bro I’m sitting here breaking down the steps it takes to complete some of the stuff you post and it hurts my brain. I remember the old days where if you could do a pair of alien coils you were like a master haha. Man things do change. You are absolutely the best Coil Porn builder I have ever had the pleasure of communicating with. I learned about you during the first season of Coil Wars and I was rooting for you cause I thought your stuff was insanely cool. I think you give a lot of people inspiration to keep on trying for the sake of the art instead of just getting to fraliens and staying there. What makes this whole thing an art is the few people like you who can show us what’s really possible.I like my method for paraclapping, it makes it quick and easy.
Take 2 spools, take 2 plastic ziplock baggies, put one spool in one bag and pull the wire out of the bag.
You can seal them 1/3 of the way to ensure the spools stay in the bag while using them.
Set both baggies standing up inside a small box and set at your feet.
Attack both wires to you core, make sure they are side by side then pinch about 2 inches from the core and slide your fingers down them until your about 6"-9" away from the core.
WASH YOUR HANDS WITH SOAP AND WARM WATER, this makes the wire slip through without snagging.
Start your drill and hold at JUST FORWARD of 90 degrees, try using the smallest amount of tension you can while still keeping the wire parallel and tight, the changes in tension may pull the wire downwards and this changes the angle of the paraclap at a microscopic level...this is one variable that can cause weaving and the more it happens the more noticeable the weaving will be when fusing.
Slide the box holding the spools as you go down your wire with your feet, when you done just cut the strands just above the tops of the baggies and they will remained spooled and ready for next time. Cut one strand on the core shorter than the other, this makes for easy removable of either strand from the core.
You can Parafuse the same way, the angle and tension is the main factor in it all working. USe 36g as one strand in your original paraclap (Example: 40g + 36g Paraclap) and when fusing the 36g gap use 2x40g.
Love it! I think that build looks sick. You’ve done a couple things I wanna copy cat. Well more than a couple actually. You’re a great builder man.
