The Variant 260W Clone unboxing pics

[rickmtnview]

Ah interesting, thanks.

The rattlesnake noise is a Busardo pet peeve. I had the original Vamo and hardly noticed as the sound is no worse than cracklin juice on the coil. Folks making it an issue has been really blown out of proportion. PWM may even have enginering benefits that I don't understand such as, it may run cooler, or be cheaper to produce at the board level. The interesting fact I've learned is this company using PWM at a much higher frequency. There could be solid enginering reasons for this, I just don't know.

 

[rickmtnview]

I ordered everything online no real shops here either.

Just ordered the SkyRC mini charger from Ebay, $36 w/free shiping.......I'm pumped!
This free B3 charger is only going to 91% and those lights are totally wonky. Off and on........I just don't get it.
Thx for the input, it got me in the right direction. Youtube also has some good videos on chargers.

 

[sval2]

Yes my button sticks if not pressed straight on

 

[rickmtnview]

Yes my button sticks if not pressed straight on

Are you writing about the Variant firing button?

 

[sval2]

Are you writing about the Variant firing button?

Yes

 

[rickmtnview]

[QUOTE="sval2, post: 245448, member:
First, before opening up the case, inspect the outside of the switch with a magnifier and see if it's centered in the case hole. You can see the switch movement is inside of a tube shape which looks to be part of the switch. Use your fingernail to press the side if the switch. Does it seem to move freely? If it does then I doubt if any binding is occurring and it may be a switch nearing failure. That's the first step, getting familiar wth the switch. Of all the mods I've had this looks to be the easiest to replace but you may not need that to be done.
The firing pin switch is very accesible once you remove the 2 top screws and plastic support which protects some parts from being jossled as the battery is inserted.

 

[sval2]

[QUOTE="sval2, post: 245448, member:
First, before opening up the case, inspect the outside of the switch with a magnifier and see if it's centered in the case hole. You can see the switch movement is inside of a tube shape which looks to be part of the switch. Use your fingernail to press the side if the switch. Does it seem to move freely? If it does then I doubt if any binding is occurring and it may be a switch nearing failure. That's the first step, getting familiar wth the switch. Of all the mods I've had this looks to be the easiest to replace but you may not need that to be done.
The firing pin switch is very accesible once you remove the 2 top screws and plastic support which protects some parts from being jossled as the battery is inserted.

Thank I'll look at it when I get home today

 

[ktrilla]

Seems to be a lot of good info in here , so ill ask you guys and see . I was looking for a battery for the variant clone and I came across these , do any of you know will these fit and are they any good to be using with the variant clone or is there better out there?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__21337__ZIPPY_Compact_1300mAh_2S_25C_Lipo_Pack.html
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9165__Turnigy_1300mAh_2S_20C_Lipo_Pack.html
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9170__Turnigy_1000mAh_2S_20C_Lipo_Pack.html

 

[ktrilla]

also what would be a good lipo charger to pick up?

 

[mjt]

1300 mah eflite battery with micro dean connections allready soldered
http://m.ebay.com/itm/251806865926

 

[ktrilla]

for $26 is it that much better then the ones from hobbyking that are around $8 ? Plus Im not worried about soldering or getting the micro dean connectors.

 

[mjt]

also what would be a good lipo charger to pick up?

I would got with a imax b6 you will need a cable with a micro dean at one end and positive and negative at the other

 

[mjt]

Based on the research I have done I believe the eflite 1300 mah batteries are the only ones that will fit. I have two of the ones from the ebay link and they work great. Most users on in the Variant box mod groub on Fb also use these batteries. Granted I have two original Variants, one slim ti and one original fat but based on what I have read on here the dimensions are the same.

 

[ktrilla]

Well thanks for the great info I'll prob go with the e-flites then, so I was also looking at the imax b6 chargers and there is a bunch to choose from which one is going to be a good fit for these application?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...rgers_Accessories-Battery_Charger_AC_DC_.html

 

[mjt]

Cant go wrong with imax b6. You will need a cablelike this.http://www.espritmodel.com/charging-cable-micro-deansbanana.aspx
When charging plug that cable to charge and the micro dean on the battery and connect the white balancing lead on the battery to the balancing port on the charger. Then set the volts on the charger to 7.4 and the amps to 1.3 then your good to go.

 

[ktrilla]

Sounds good ill pic one of those up to , but Im still a little confused I thought the micro dean was to plug into the mod and the other cord on there was to plug into the charger. Are you saying to plug both into the charger ?

 

[rdsok]

Sounds good ill pic one of those up to , but Im still a little confused I thought the micro dean was to plug into the mod and the other cord on there was to plug into the charger. Are you saying to plug both into the charger ?

You use that cord when charging the battery ... charger -> battery... no mod is involved

 

[mjt]

You use that cord when charging the battery ... charger -> battery... no mod is involved

Agreed no mod involved

 

[rickmtnview]

I've enjoyed using the Imax B6 mini charger. Very small but needs a seperate power supply which I purchased from Radio Shack rated to 19 amps. Beware of knock off chargers. I got my xtra batteries right on Ebay. Just search for Variant battery!

 

[mjt]

I've enjoyed using the Imax B6 mini charger. Very small but needs a seperate power supply which I purchased from Radio Shack rated to 19 amps. Beware of knock off chargers. I got my xtra batteries right on Ebay. Just search for Variant battery!

If he buys from hobby king it will be authentic

 

[ktrilla]

mjt where you saying there is a group for variant owners? I would like to brows around that maybe and learn some more things about these mod and lipo batteries.

 

[mjt]

There is a group on FB just dont mentioned anything about clones. They will ban you

 

[ktrilla]

oh well i guess not lol, well thanks for the advice I'm going to get that imax b6 and the e-flite batteries. Any other things a newbie should know about lipos ?

 

[mjt]

Only other thing is be careful. If the batteries get puffy dont use them

 

[fq06]

Have you measured the area for the lipo? Maybe you have a mm or two more than the size that comes with it?

If it were me, I would measure the area and see if a hobbyking pack would fit. I would gladly solder a new connector on for the price difference and any pack there (within that size) has more than enough discharge capability for your use.

 

[mjt]

The measurements should be on hobby king. The efite batteries are tight sometimes you have to remove the label.

 

[ktrilla]

is the standard imax b6 charger fine or is the v2 professional the one i should get?

 

[fq06]

I meant the actual battery bay measurement to shop hobbyking with, but I guess if the eflight pack is really tight that may be a good number to go off of. Is that the same size pack as the one that comes in the mod? Or a mm or two bigger? Is there any wiggle room from the stock pack size?

There are a couple @ HK that are really close so they maybe could be used but I don't have the mod to measure so I couldn't say if they would fit or not.

 

[fq06]

Just about any of those lipo chargers will do fine. I didn't look it up but the v2 pro probably just has a higher watt/amp charge capability which you don't need.

They are cheap packs and don't need much more than a basic balance charger.

 

[ktrilla]

How do the 30mm attys look on this mod ? Anyone have a pic?

 

[mjt]

Doesnt look good

 

[ktrilla]

Not really a good look .

 

[ktrilla]

whats the lowest voltage you take your lipo batteries to?

 

[mjt]

batteries can go much lower than the device

 

[rickmtnview]

7.0V-7.2V is probably a good point to change out the battery on the Variant. When trying to stretch the change down to 6.8V, you can easily slip past 6.8V right down to 5.8 when it will stop firing. Voltage falls very fast from 7.0V down.
Generally my batteries will last 12-15 hrs. I vape moderately at 15.5V(indicated) on an Origen clone using Japanese cotton. I find the setup so satisfying that I'm pretty much out of vaping market.

 

[Vapor82]

[QUOTE="sval2, post: 245448, member:
First, before opening up the case, inspect the outside of the switch with a magnifier and see if it's centered in the case hole. You can see the switch movement is inside of a tube shape which looks to be part of the switch. Use your fingernail to press the side if the switch. Does it seem to move freely? If it does then I doubt if any binding is occurring and it may be a switch nearing failure. That's the first step, getting familiar wth the switch. Of all the mods I've had this looks to be the easiest to replace but you may not need that to be done.
The firing pin switch is very accesible once you remove the 2 top screws and plastic support which protects some parts from being jossled as the battery is inserted.

I'm having a sticky button issue also!! So sad because I love this Mod. I wish they would have spent another .25 cents and put in a functioning button especially since it's the most used piece of this device.

Hey Rick - any info you can give me on the sticky button would be a big help since I'm planning on replacing the existing POS button with a new one. I have a little experience with soldering (build a raptor 20 box mod from scratch), but again any info would be great if you have any

 

[rickmtnview]

I'm having a sticky button issue also!! So sad because I love this Mod. I wish they would have spent another .25 cents and put in a functioning button especially since it's the most used piece of this device.

Hey Rick - any info you can give me on the sticky button would be a big help since I'm planning on replacing the existing POS button with a new one. I have a little experience with soldering (build a raptor 20 box mod from scratch), but again any info would be great if you have any

Glad you also like the Variant. I've been using mine exclusively since I purchased. Don't get to upset with the sticky switch business, it's pretty much hit or miss on longevity. I'm still using my original switch and no sticking yet. If you got a good one I suspect life expectancy is quite good.
As to replacement, I suggest looking on Ebay for replacement switch for a Hana style pushbutton switch. That's what you need a standard momentary, thru hole style, pushbutton switch with the BB style button.
It may be easier to insert wires into the mother board and use those to connect to the switch instead of inserting the switch legs into the mother board. Just a thought but something I intend to try when my switch finally fails. Please keep me in the loop on your solution.
For me, this mod is just perfect and I have no desire for something better. Good luck!

 

[Vapor82]

Does anybody have a problem with the fire button sticking if it's not pressed directly on top. [/ATTACH]View attachment 10879 View attachment 10880

I have the same problem my fire button sticks if i trigger it a particular way. I'm actually looking for info on how to change the fire button out.

 

[Vapor82]

Glad you also like the Variant. I've been using mine exclusively since I purchased. Don't get to upset with the sticky switch business, it's pretty much hit or miss on longevity. I'm still using my original switch and no sticking yet. If you got a good one I suspect life expectancy is quite good.
As to replacement, I suggest looking on Ebay for replacement switch for a Hana style pushbutton switch. That's what you need a standard momentary, thru hole style, pushbutton switch with the BB style button.
It may be easier to insert wires into the mother board and use those to connect to the switch instead of inserting the switch legs into the mother board. Just a thought but something I intend to try when my switch finally fails. Please keep me in the loop on your solution.
For me, this mod is just perfect and I have no desire for something better. Good luck!

Thanks for that Rick. I'm going to open it up some time soon and tinker a little see if i can get it fixed, but to be honest i really don't want mess with it to much. If i have to solder to the motherboard i'm not doing that way to risky IMO for the rewards unless my button fails.

I noticed one more possible issue with my mod- my vape time doesn't count on every puff and then eventually just jumps to what seems accurate after about 5 mins of vaping. Is this normal? Is the supposed to increment by puff ?

I gotta say I absolute love the piece of technology super sturdy very professional looking. No gimmicky screens like the GI2 just raw power.. BTW I only vape at 50 watts @.8 omh no need to go any higher IMO (4 now)...

 

[Vapor82]

Do they make screen protectors for this thing ?? Needs a fingerprint-less one for sure

 

[rickmtnview]

Do they make screen protectors for this thing ?? Needs a fingerprint-less one for sure

The reason I mention inserting wires into the MB is because I believe it would be less stressful than clearing the holes of old solder to make room for the new switch legs. Just a thought!
I think you can find a screen protector material in a computer or stationary store. Just cutting to size would be easy.
Puff counters be damned! IMHO it's totally useless information. Never look at the puff counter.
Best advice I can give on the Variant is change out battery at 7.0V. It drops very quickly below that and you want to limit how many times you run down the lipo batteries until it no longer fires.

 

[Vapor82]

The reason I mention inserting wires into the MB is because I believe it would be less stressful than clearing the holes of old solder to make room for the new switch legs. Just a thought!
I think you can find a screen protector material in a computer or stationary store. Just cutting to size would be easy.
Puff counters be damned! IMHO it's totally useless information. Never look at the puff counter.
Best advice I can give on the Variant is change out battery at 7.0V. It drops very quickly below that and you want to limit how many times you run down the lipo batteries until it no longer fires.

I'm going to have to look into what the best and safest method of changing out the button.. I will definitely keep everyone in the loop on my progress when i have a min to give it a shot. Agreed 100% I stop vaping at around 7.2v to be on the safe side cause i think I read somewhere here in the forum that it could drop Voltage rapidly after 7.2 and you can unexpectedly drain out the battery and reduce it's life.

 

[Vapor82]

Is this charger any good ? http://www.hobbyking.com/mobile/viewproduct.asp?idproduct=22297&type=&idparentcat=1434

 

[mjt]

Id go with an imax b6 charger personally works great

 

[Vapor82]

Id go with an imax b6 charger personally works great

Yea I heard this one is recommended i'm just afraid of getting a knock-off since it's so popular. Do you know if Hobbyking sells the authentic version?

 

[mjt]

Yea I heard this one is recommended i'm just afraid of getting a knock-off since it's so popular. Do you know if Hobbyking sells the authentic version?

If you order it from hobby king they are all authenitc. You will need a cable with a micro dean on one end and red and black power on the the other

 

[Vapor82]

If you order it from hobby king they are all authenitc. You will need a cable with a micro dean on one end and red and black power on the the other

Thanks for the info man... So to charge it then it connects from the battery's micro dean to the black and red which goes into the charger then? I can't just use the other connector (not sure the name) it's a white flat connector that slides into the side of the charger?

 

[mjt]

You need to connect both the white which is balancing and the red and black. So the cable has a micro dean like the one on the battery which splits into a red and black wire and conection.

 

[Vapor82]

You need to connect both the white which is balancing and the red and black. So the cable has a micro dean like the one on the battery which splits into a red and black wire and conection.

Oh I didn't know that. Here comes a stupid questions why do you need both?

On my charger that comes with the clone (B3 compact charger) I just connect the (white) balanced connector and I'm done.

 

[mjt]

Ya b3 will kills your batteries i have one too. I have one that came with authentic variant. It is my understanding that the white cable is just for balalancing while the other is for power. However the charger that came with my ares which is from hobby lobby$60 charger only had the one balancing connection. i would recomend joining the lipo box mod group they can probably provide more detailed information. I will day charging it this way i have been using my lipos for 7 months without issue. The original batteries that came with my variant that i used the b3 charger are all inflated and can no longer be used safely.