How do you know when to change the batteries?

[KingPin!]

i know I know obvious question...begone noob... but still something I've wondered on mechs?

I don't own a mech yet...I tend to research stuff for bloody ages before I venture into it ...then when I think I'm ready yep I research some more lol it's a hindrance and a blessing

Anyway I see so much on battery safety, ohms law quoted more times than I can count, cleaning devices and all the other stuff you have to be concerned with when using mechs

With no screen though seriously how do you know when to change your friggin battery so they don't go below say 3.4v? Is it count how many puffs you take or something?

Or should I just get my coat?

 

[Whiskey]

Back when I started vaping and was using mech's I changed them when I felt the power was drained, Now a days, there might be a better rule of thumb, I use all regulated now.

 

[Majistir]

The more you use the same mechanical setup ie same coil build, same mech mod, fresh battery, the more you become familiar with the output. As your battery drains the voltage drops and you'll feel the vape quality drop.
Since the voltage drops slowly over time it can make it hard to notice the difference throughout the day. My advice would be to get it all setup and rdy and just switch the battery out every hour or so to get a feel for what a fully charged mech will vape like.

 

[KingPin!]

Oh ok don't feel stupid for asking now so pretty much guesswork no rule of thumb technique

Thanks guys

 

[Majistir]

Pretty much. There's is always an inline voltage meter like this.

Keep it on there if you don't mind or check it throughout the day I suppose. You'll get a feel for it eventually so I wouldn't burden yourself with a meter. Kinda like using a GPS but getting completely lost in your own town when cell service is lost.

 

[HondaDavidson]

In my mech.. by taste..... but truth is I get between 20 and 24 hours per batt. At this point I just do it after eating dinner at night and before bed.

On my regulated mod I do it when the guage gets to 1 bar.

In either case at 3.7 to 3.4 volts.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[gopher_byrd]

You'll start to notice it taking longer to ramp up and the vapor production/flavor lessening. It's totally a feel thing, but once you get the feel it becomes second nature. Take a hit, yup time to change the battery.

@KingPin! I really appreciate how you are approaching this. Research first, ask questions, research some more, then buy. Cheers mate!

 

[KingPin!]

I have a load more yet lol

1) How do you control the wattage in a mech? It's part of the ohms law calculation but everything I've seen is plug battery's in (lets say i used a single fully charged 4.2v 18650 with 20a CDR), put my coil in (lets say it came out at 0.5ohm) Now I press the go button

Will you only have a set 35.28 wattage? On there (before your batteries drain this is) or is there another factor I've missed?

2) Do you or should you use a spring on the negative contact to ensure a good connection and if you do should you use same materiel, I understand some boxes don't (frankenskull) this ensures lower voltage drop right (less parts and all that)

3) with a mech what is the longest draw time you want to safely take? Noticed on my regulated mod Voltage goes up as I draw

 

[JuicyLucy]

KingPin!, post: 1568793, member: 63890"]I have a load more yet lol

1) How do you control the wattage in a mech? It's part of the ohms law calculation but everything I've seen is plug battery's in (lets say i used a single fully charged 4.2v 18650 with 20a CDR), put my coil in (lets say it came out at 0.5ohm) Now I press the go button: The resistance of your coil controls the wattage

Will you only have a set 35.28 wattage? On there (before your batteries drain this is) or is there another factor I've missed? The resistance of your coil controls the wattage

2) Do you or should you use a spring on the negative contact to ensure a good connection and if you do should you use same materiel, I understand some boxes don't (frankenskull) this ensures lower voltage drop right (less parts and all that) The spring in some mechs is a failsafe designed to melt before a battery can vent, therefore breaking the connection

3) with a mech what is the longest draw time you want to safely take? Noticed on my regulated mod Voltage goes up as I draw[/QUOTE] No idea - never thought about it. I draw on a mech the same as regulated, but I'm a tootle puffer

 

[KingPin!]

Ok so tying in my original changing the battery question with my second one on wattage

I use SS 316l wire starting resistance is 0.5ohm
Battery starts off at 4.2V fully charged
I vape it on a mech
There is going to be an 8.4A drain
And it will be at 35.28 Watts

I heat the coil being its SS changes resistance when heated to 0.6ohm (battery still at 4.2v)
Drain goes down to 7A
Wattage goes down to 29.4W
(This might answer my last question on length of puff I.e until you notice it drop off?)

I carry on vaping eventually battery goes down to 3.4v same 0.5 resistance before heating
Drain goes down to 6.8A
Wattage goes down to 23.12W (19.27W when coil heated to 0.6ohm)

And it's this decrease you will detect roughly 10W decrease in power when heated ...sounds subtle but I can tell a 10w difference on a regulated mod

Have I got all of this right?

Also at
@SirRichardRear
@r055co

 

[conanthewarrior]

Ok so tying in my original changing the battery question with my second one on wattage

I use SS 316l wire starting resistance is 0.5ohm
Battery starts off at 4.2V fully charged
I vape it on a mech
There is going to be an 8.4A drain
And it will be at 35.28 Watts

I heat the coil being its SS changes resistance when heated to 0.6ohm (battery still at 4.2v)
Drain goes down to 7A
Wattage goes down to 29.4W
(This might answer my last question on length of puff I.e until you notice it drop off?)

I carry on vaping eventually battery goes down to 3.4v same 0.5 resistance before heating
Drain goes down to 6.8A
Wattage goes down to 23.12W (19.27W when coil heated to 0.6ohm)

And it's this decrease you will detect roughly 10W decrease in power when heated ...sounds subtle but I can tell a 10w difference on a regulated mod

Have I got all of this right?

Also at
@SirRichardRear
@r055co

Yeah it seems like you have everything right there to me.

You will notice a difference between a fresh battery, and one that needs changing for sure. I tend to change at around 3.6-3.7V in my mechs, as I can really feel the difference one the battery gets to this level.

SS as you mentioned does have a slight increase in resistance when it heats, which is how it works with TC. I use SS316L now though, and I haven't really noticed a difference on my mechs taking a few pulls in a row.

It is likely you will have more of a drop than this due to voltage under load, so you will know when it is time to change. As suggested though, at first I would take the battery out say every hour to find out how fast it is draining, as it is different for all of us.

 

[KingPin!]

Awesome thanks guys

 

[SirRichardRear]

Ok so tying in my original changing the battery question with my second one on wattage

I use SS 316l wire starting resistance is 0.5ohm
Battery starts off at 4.2V fully charged
I vape it on a mech
There is going to be an 8.4A drain
And it will be at 35.28 Watts

I heat the coil being its SS changes resistance when heated to 0.6ohm (battery still at 4.2v)
Drain goes down to 7A
Wattage goes down to 29.4W
(This might answer my last question on length of puff I.e until you notice it drop off?)

I carry on vaping eventually battery goes down to 3.4v same 0.5 resistance before heating
Drain goes down to 6.8A
Wattage goes down to 23.12W (19.27W when coil heated to 0.6ohm)

And it's this decrease you will detect roughly 10W decrease in power when heated ...sounds subtle but I can tell a 10w difference on a regulated mod

Have I got all of this right?

Also at
@SirRichardRear
@r055co

You got it down just fine

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[KingPin!]

Hmmm this just opened up a whole new world for BF squonking might have to just get me one of those Reos or coppervapes now!

@JuicyLucy is there a decent frakenskull clone?

 

[JuicyLucy]

Hmmm this just opened up a whole new world for BF squonking might have to just get me one of those Reos or coppervapes now!

@JuicyLucy is there a decent frakenskull clone?

Just got the only clone I know of and would not recommend it as a first mech - I wouldn't recommend it to anyone right now, lol

 

[KingPin!]

Oh ok lol fair enough to be honest Reo is the way to go although sure I read somewhere the chap that makes them has stopped due to poor health?

Of the Reo's what's your fav?

 

[JuicyLucy]

Oh ok lol fair enough to be honest Reo is the way to go although sure I read somewhere the chap that makes them has stopped due to poor health?

Of the Reo's what's your fav?

P67 is best REO IMO but most expensive and hardest to get


Rob (REO maker) says on his site he is having health issues and will resume in the future

 

[KingPin!]

Yeah just visited the site all P67's sold out I absolutely love the black with red sleeve hmmm gonna be on my wish list now thanks Lucy once again

 

[JuicyLucy]

Yeah just visited the site all P67's sold out I absolutely love the black with red sleeve hmmm gonna be on my wish list now thanks Lucy once again

About once a year he makes a batch of P67s and holds a quick sale. They rarely last half an hour. It's insane.

Aftermarket is your best bet if you have to have one, lol

 

[JuicyLucy]

Yeah just visited the site all P67's sold out I absolutely love the black with red sleeve hmmm gonna be on my wish list now thanks Lucy once again

 

[KingPin!]

Why you tease you! so you selling?

 

[JuicyLucy]

Why you tease you! so you selling?

Nope - just a big meanie

Uh, actually that was a recent weekend hand check, lol

 

[Mike H.]

The voltage of the battery determines the wattage as well...not just ohms of the coil...the difference between 4.2v and 3.7v is a big difference in the quality of the vape at any ohm range.

A simple volt meter is a good tool to have..I like to stop at 3.7v.... ill remove the battery and give it a quick check but as most said, youll get used to knowing when its time to remove it based on the vape youre getting..Just be sure to not go too far as this can cause battery failure..I bought one of those LCD volt meters from fasttech for less than $3.00 to use to test battery voltage..it works great, I just remove the battery and test the voltage.

 

[KingPin!]

The voltage of the battery determines the wattage as well...not just ohms of the coil...the difference between 4.2v and 3.7v is a big difference in the quality of the vape at any ohm range.

A simple volt meter is a good tool to have..I like to stop at 3.7v.... ill remove the battery and give it a quick check but as most said, youll get used to knowing when its time to remove it based on the vape youre getting..Just be sure to not go too far as this can cause battery failure..I bought one of those LCD volt meters from fasttech for less than $3.00 to use to test battery voltage..it works great, I just remove the battery and test the voltage.

I've got the nitecore D4 charger that gives me a volt reading should do the trick as well?

 

[Mike H.]

I've got the nitecore D4 charger that gives me a volt reading should do the trick as well?

yes, that would work fine

 

[Mike H.]

The thing with 4.2v is you may never really see 4.2v from a mech mod and atty...I did several tests using different Mech mods and attys and the voltage to the atty was far from 4.2v..The majority saw maybe 3.8 to 3.9 volts but none saw 4.2v to the coils...This is another reason I enjoy regulated mods more as I can actually adjust power so the atty sees 4.2v for a fantastic vape....I still use a mech time to time but its getting less and less frequent for me...Ive been on a spending spree buying regulated mods...Ill be searching for the next deal on something tonight for another regulated mod...I have no plans to stop till each and every RDA/RTA/RDTA I decide I like has its own mod.

 

[KingPin!]

The thing with 4.2v is you may never really see 4.2v from a mech mod and atty...I did several tests using different Mech mods and attys and the voltage to the atty was far from 4.2v..The majority saw maybe 3.8 to 3.9 volts but none saw 4.2v to the coils...This is another reason I enjoy regulated mods more as I can actually adjust power so the atty sees 4.2v for a fantastic vape....I still use a mech time to time but its getting less and less frequent for me...Ive been on a spending spree buying regulated mods...Ill be searching for the next deal on something tonight for another regulated mod...I have no plans to stop till each and every RDA/RTA/RDTA I decide I like has its own mod.

What benefits do mechs offer over regulated?

 

[r055co]

What benefits do mechs offer over regulated?

• Direct and pure DC power provides a very smooth Vape.
• Hobby side, I really enjoy building the right build and the satisfaction of enjoying what I built.
• A quality Mechanical Mod is beautiful.
• Durability, they'll outlast me.
• Simplicity of them.
• I am responsible for my own safety, not a chip or someone churning out mass quantities at slave labor wages.

 

[mach1ne]

• Direct and pure DC power provides a very smooth Vape.
• Hobby side, I really enjoy building the right build and the satisfaction of enjoying what I built.
• A quality Mechanical Mod is beautiful.
• Durability, they'll outlast me.
• Simplicity of them.
• I am responsible for my own safety, not a chip or someone churning out mass quantities at slave labor wages.

fully agree. its like any other comparison of digital vs analogue...they have a feel that digital things lack. digital things came around to reduce all that hands on stuff (and most of the risk of making a mistake along with it) and make life easier for people. both have their place. i feel a bit more of a connection to a mech because i had to learn how to make the best coil for my perfect vape, feel the battery, understand how it works (mechanically) and fix it when it breaks etc etc.

 

[KingPin!]

Is the Reo LP ok in comparison to the P67 guys, See Rob still has a number of those for sale (pro's vs con's) I read maddog having button issues?

Looked at normal grand but website suggested the LP to facilitate larger RDAs although not sure what size tank I could go up to and comfortably to still fit them?

 

[DogMan]

Is the Reo LP ok in comparison to the P67 guys, See Rob still has a number of those for sale (pro's vs con's) I read maddog having button issues?

Looked at normal grand but website suggested the LP to facilitate larger RDAs although not sure what size tank I could go up to and comfortably to still fit them?

LP REO grand are good mods, but I wouldn't build below about 0.3 on the factory contacts.

Voltage drop like a SOB though. There are various modifications you make, like fuse mod, copper tape over spring, 3rd party contacts, but they all take away the safety aspect.

 

[JuicyLucy]

Is the Reo LP ok in comparison to the P67 guys, See Rob still has a number of those for sale (pro's vs con's) I read maddog having button issues?

Looked at normal grand but website suggested the LP to facilitate larger RDAs although not sure what size tank I could go up to and comfortably to still fit them?

REO Grand LP can accommodate any size 510 atomizer - but anything over 18mm hangs over the platform - an esthetic issue rather than a safety one

Also, the REO Grand LP (make sure you get LP) is much more common to find and has a lower resale value than the P67. Meaning you can get one much easier for less money.

I'll post a comparison photo later - just woke up and no yet

 

[The Cromwell]

Ok so tying in my original changing the battery question with my second one on wattage

I use SS 316l wire starting resistance is 0.5ohm
Battery starts off at 4.2V fully charged
I vape it on a mech
There is going to be an 8.4A drain
And it will be at 35.28 Watts

I heat the coil being its SS changes resistance when heated to 0.6ohm (battery still at 4.2v)
Drain goes down to 7A
Wattage goes down to 29.4W
(This might answer my last question on length of puff I.e until you notice it drop off?)

I carry on vaping eventually battery goes down to 3.4v same 0.5 resistance before heating
Drain goes down to 6.8A
Wattage goes down to 23.12W (19.27W when coil heated to 0.6ohm)

And it's this decrease you will detect roughly 10W decrease in power when heated ...sounds subtle but I can tell a 10w difference on a regulated mod

Have I got all of this right?

Also at
@SirRichardRear
@r055co

Yep seems right to me.
You seem to be going about this in an intelligent and safe manner.
Happy Vaping.

 

[JuicyLucy]

Here is a comparison of the 22 mm Hadaly on an Grand LP (left) and a P67(right) . The overhang gets more pronounced on the LP as you get into larger atties. It does not change the vape, just the esthetics.

 

[Mike H.]

What benefits do mechs offer over regulated?

The only REAL advantage is no worrying about electronics failing....Other than that I see zero advantages to a mech mod...Whatever custom coil you can build to work great at the 3.8v youll get to your atty, its goes away pretty fast as voltage drops so now the perfect coil is no longer that due to voltage dropping...I suppose there is a "cool" factor for a Mech mod but in the real world its hard to beat a regulated mod for the perfect vape you want for a much longer period of time.

 

[JuicyLucy]

For my style of vaping, mechs offer a smoother draw over regulated - I wouldn't go through all the hassle for a lesser quality of the vape

My two cents

 

[gopher_byrd]

Is the Reo LP ok in comparison to the P67 guys, See Rob still has a number of those for sale (pro's vs con's) I read maddog having button issues?

Looked at normal grand but website suggested the LP to facilitate larger RDAs although not sure what size tank I could go up to and comfortably to still fit them?

I own 4 of them. Road warrior approved. As others have said, these are not clouds bro type mods. I run 0.4 ohm coils in smaller attys like the Derringer or Hadaly.

 

[KingPin!]

The only REAL advantage is no worrying about electronics failing....Other than that I see zero advantages to a mech mod...Whatever custom coil you can build to work great at the 3.8v youll get to your atty, its goes away pretty fast as voltage drops so now the perfect coil is no longer that due to voltage dropping...I suppose there is a "cool" factor for a Mech mod but in the real world its hard to beat a regulated mod for the perfect vape you want for a much longer period of time.

do you prefer the DNA regulated mods Mike? Cause I've been seriously looking at the halcyon BF

 

[KingPin!]

Here is a comparison of the 22 mm Hadaly on an Grand LP (left) and a P67(right) . The overhang gets more pronounced on the LP as you get into larger atties. It does not change the vape, just the esthetics.

View attachment 73666

Hmm gonna have to wait for P67 that overhang isn't gonna help my OCD being most RDAs I've been looking at are at least 22-24ml as well

 

[r055co]

For my style of vaping, mechs offer a smoother draw over regulated - I wouldn't go through all the hassle for a lesser quality of the vape

My two cents

Yep, there is something about the pure DC power that hasn't been manipulated that provides a noticeable smooth Vape. When ever I have others take a hit off my mod most all always comment about how smooth the Vape is.

Like you I wouldn't go through all the hassle for lesser quality.

 

[KingPin!]

Yep, there is something about the pure DC power that hasn't been manipulated that provides a noticeable smooth Vape. When ever I have others take a hit off my mod most all always comment about how smooth the Vape is.

Like you I wouldn't go through all the hassle for lesser quality.

Noticed Rossco you like tube mods (phalic pipe ones ) are these broadly the same although batteries run in series on those what difference does that bring to the table? Also are they a bitch to clean?

 

[r055co]

Noticed Rossco you like tube mods (phalic pipe ones ) are these broadly the same although batteries run in series on those what difference does that bring to the table? Also are they a bitch to clean?

I'm all over the map, actually I'm mostly using parallel Mod's. The Tubes though are easy to carry around while I'm out and about. All my Tube Mod's are single battery I don't have any stacked which really don't appeal to me. Tubes are also very easy to clean, incredibly easy but I still prefer a good parallel

 

[PhantomOp]

thanks guys/gals for the read --- i'm following this thread now.

 

[HondaDavidson]

I use both mechs and regulated... the advantage of a mech is durability..... and challange.....

I use my mechs for rough duty type activities... like hanging out around the pool. Working on the car. Hiking. Things where dropping it. Getting it dirty. Ect. Are likely. I have drop my mods. in the pool 2x. Oil change pan and over a 50 foot cliff and into a couple creek hiking. Fix in each case...Wipe it off swap the battery maybe, maybe the atty and vape on... hint. RTAs tend to handle dropping in water better than drippers.

Challenge comes in producing the vape you want. You don't have technology to compensate for the coil coming out too hot or cold. You have to learn to build c oils that will vape good over a range of wattages. A range that gets wider the lower you build.

Watt for watt my mechs get a little better battery life than my regulated mods do.... The regulated mods get better life ohm for ohm.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[KingPin!]

I use both mechs and regulated... the advantage of a mech is durability..... and challange.....

I use my mechs for rough duty type activities... like hanging out around the pool. Working on the car. Hiking. Things where dropping it. Getting it dirty. Ect. Are likely. I have drop my mods. in the pool 2x. Oil change pan and over a 50 foot cliff and into a couple creek hiking. Fix in each case...Wipe it off swap the battery maybe, maybe the atty and vape on... hint. RTAs tend to handle dropping in water better than drippers.

Challenge comes in producing the vape you want. You don't have technology to compensate for the coil coming out too hot or cold. You have to learn to build c oils that will vape good over a range of wattages. A range that gets wider the lower you build.

Watt for watt my mechs get a little better battery life than my regulated mods do.... The regulated mods get better life ohm for ohm.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

Really helpful info buddy so in you humble opinion what coil build work best for mech across the voltage range?

Something I didn't mention in this thread ...but I like a warm vape and mix between flavour and cloud (more towards the former)

 

[r055co]

I use both mechs and regulated... the advantage of a mech is durability..... and challange.....

I use my mechs for rough duty type activities... like hanging out around the pool. Working on the car. Hiking. Things where dropping it. Getting it dirty. Ect. Are likely. I have drop my mods. in the pool 2x. Oil change pan and over a 50 foot cliff and into a couple creek hiking. Fix in each case...Wipe it off swap the battery maybe, maybe the atty and vape on... hint. RTAs tend to handle dropping in water better than drippers.

Challenge comes in producing the vape you want. You don't have technology to compensate for the coil coming out too hot or cold. You have to learn to build c oils that will vape good over a range of wattages. A range that gets wider the lower you build.

Watt for watt my mechs get a little better battery life than my regulated mods do.... The regulated mods get better life ohm for ohm.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

^^^^^ Yep

Plus if Government and the Big Pharma Whores in the FDA have their way I'll be happily Vaping long after when the last regulated Mod pukes.

 

[KingPin!]

^^^^^ Yep

Plus if Government and the Big Pharma Whores in the FDA have their way I'll be happily Vaping long after when the last regulated Mod pukes.

Too much money in it now for that ($6 billion in global sales in 2015) and even if they do over your side of the pond in the UK rhetoric is different concerning safety and health.

If both our countries bow down there will always be Chinese clone imports

 

[r055co]

Too much money in it now for that ($6 billion in global sales in 2015) and even if they do over your side of the pond in the UK rhetoric is different concerning safety and health.

If both our countries bow down there will always be Chinese clone imports

$6BN, peanuts compared to $Trillions in Big Pharma and Sin Tax's

 

[HondaDavidson]

Really helpful info buddy so in you humble opinion what coil build work best for mech across the voltage range?

Something I didn't mention in this thread ...but I like a warm vape and mix between flavour and cloud (more towards the former)

Depends on the atty. Depends on the desired wattage. Me I like to change batts no more than 1 time per day....

So I like to build for no more than 30 watts. Call it a 15 to 20 watt running average. I prefer single coil also.

I rarely build the mechs below about .7ohm or over 1.5ohm Regulated I will build from 0.2 to 3ohms with a 15 watt target running average.
1ohm on a mech is about a 5 watt range.. but at .2 the range is over 20 watts. The range being tied to battery voltage.

Current builds.. Reo with Chalice I think it's 30ss at 1.1ohm. PICO with avocado .55ohm 28ss/30ss twisted.
Tube is running Hobo 2 at .36 2x28ss. This coil was built for the pico. Currently being used to vape other than ejuice.

Have 1 KFL built at .66 and another at .9 the 3rd has a 1.1 ohm coil twin to the chalice build. Was going to do a dual coil build in the Avocado... changed mind.. didn't want to waste the coils. Sat22 is running at 1.8 ohm.

Except for the Sat22 being a pure MTL draw. All of these builds are producing near identicle vape with a tight DL draw. Warmth of a cigarette.... I guess.




Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[Mike H.]

do you prefer the DNA regulated mods Mike? Cause I've been seriously looking at the halcyon BF

I don't own any dna mods as of yet...They are supposed to be the best for temp control so when I decide to try that I may pick one up..For now I still like basic power mode.