IPV 4 issues

[rj9923]

So my bandmate found a lost IPV 4 and arctic tank laying around at work or something and nobody claimed it. He gave it to me since he doesn't vape. I just have a few questions since I've never had a mod.

At first it worked pretty well, but after a few minutes it started giving very innacurate resistance readings, and sometimes not firing. Eventually it kept on saying check atomizer, and I put three different atomizers on it. An ijust 2, an RDA, and the arctic. The battery looks like it's about a third full according to the meter, so I don't quite know if it's dead yet. I have to get a 9v AC adapter to charge it apparently. It also has two samsung batteries in it.

I know this may very well be because the batteries could be dead, but I wanted to double check with you guys before investing in an AC adapter or even new batteries. Is this device broken? It does look pretty beat up.

 

[Teresa P]

In all likelihood, yes. Mine started doing the same thing, didn't have any problems with it since I got it, then all sorts of warnings began to pop up. I'm looking for someone who knows what they're doing to maybe fix mine. I love that mod....

 

[rj9923]

In all likelihood, yes. Mine started doing the same thing, didn't have any problems with it since I got it, then all sorts of warnings began to pop up. I'm looking for someone who knows what they're doing to maybe fix mine. I love that mod....

Could it be as simple as updating the firmware? I read that the usb port is for that. The only two other things I could think are possible are the batteries are old or the pin under the 510 connection needs tweaking.

 

[Cloudy Peak Vapes]

Can you get more specific on your batteries? Also, I would say absolutely do not use the charging port. Especially if the mod is acting up. They took the port out for the 4S for a reason, not causing shorts from poor build quality and misplacing insulation. The 4 can start to drain the right battery unevenly, and then it can short out. I don't use mine anymore... At all. It can have these issues while off with no atty, but batteries in it. Mine never has had issues, I just have other devices that eliminate the need to use my 4. That's why I don't use it, and don't take the risk.

If you can get your hands on a multimeter and a charger, meter the batteries before charging to see if they're unevenly draining. If so, stop using the mod. You can take the charging board out as well, it's supposed to be really easy, if you are so inclined. Also, I'd hesitate using batteries that were found in a mod. In fact, I'd toss em. You don't know what the previous owner did or didn't do properly, and $10 for a new pair of batts is worth it.

 

[mattdarat]

Ipv4 owner here i have not had an problems with mine. DO NOT use the internal charger. Use a good external charger like the nitecore or xtar. Also check the spring loaded 510 center pin. Sometimes it does not return all the way causing a very light connection. Simply use something to push it and release it quickly it should come up.

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[rj9923]

Can you get more specific on your batteries? Also, I would say absolutely do not use the charging port. Especially if the mod is acting up. They took the port out for the 4S for a reason, not causing shorts from poor build quality and misplacing insulation. The 4 can start to drain the right battery unevenly, and then it can short out. I don't use mine anymore... At all. It can have these issues while off with no atty, but batteries in it. Mine never has had issues, I just have other devices that eliminate the need to use my 4. That's why I don't use it, and don't take the risk.

If you can get your hands on a multimeter and a charger, meter the batteries before charging to see if they're unevenly draining. If so, stop using the mod. You can take the charging board out as well, it's supposed to be really easy, if you are so inclined. Also, I'd hesitate using batteries that were found in a mod. In fact, I'd toss em. You don't know what the previous owner did or didn't do properly, and $10 for a new pair of batts is worth it.

Do you mean poor build quality as in how I may build my coils? Because I could just charge the mod with no atty attached.

The batteries are samsung 18650s which I believe are common. I do have a multimeter, but for all I know they're completely discharged right now because I have no mod battery charger. I do have a box laying around with random AC and DC chargers for broken electronics, so hopefully I can find a 9v AC when I get home. Also, if it does drain one battery quicker than the other I can probably wire it to take just one battery. I don't need all that life.

I've read so many great reviews on this thing; I'm suprised you guys are mentioning all of this.

Perhaps I should just sell the device as is because it doesn't seem practical to spend money on a charger and batteries if the device itself is defective.

I would say that whoever lost it didn't care to come back for it because it could be broken, but then again there was an Arctic V2 attached to it in fine condition, and I believe those are expensive.

One thing I should add: Before researching this device, I plugged a mini USB charger into it and wondered why it was not charging. I then read that the usb port is for updates. Could I have broken it by trying to charge through the usb?

 

[rj9923]

Ipv4 owner here i have not had an problems with mine. DO NOT use the internal charger. Use a good external charger like the nitecore or xtar. Also check the spring loaded 510 center pin. Sometimes it does not return all the way causing a very light connection. Simply use something to push it and release it quickly it should come up.

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The pin seems to have a flathead screw. Is it meant to be adjusted? And why would you not use the internal charger?

 

[AmandaD]

The issues with the original IPV4 (and there were many) were, I believe, fixed in the IPV4S.

I seem to remember you shouldn't adjust the 510 - it's not meant to be adjusted. (I sold my IPV4 because of the size).

You need to remove the batteries to charge safely (it was removed in the S version), and the USB port can't be used for upgrades.

Hope this helps!

 

[mattdarat]

The pin seems to have a flathead screw. Is it meant to be adjusted? And why would you not use the internal charger?

Don't turn the screw. It is spring loaded do it moves up and down as necessary but sometimes it does not return All the way. The depth shoud be about 1/8" or so. The charger on any stacked batteries like that has to be really accurate and so far in the ipv series they release the first ones with the board and then release the next ones without. Nothing beats having 4 batteries 2 in and 2 charging or waiting to go in. $20 for a good set of 4 samsungs is worth having it not vent when the charge board doesnt work right.

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[smacksy]

The pin seems to have a flathead screw. Is it meant to be adjusted? And why would you not use the internal charger?

I've had these two V4's for over 6 mos now..I removed the charging boards after hearing they could short out..I charge batts in a separate charger..do not try to adjust the pin with a screw driver..it is not adjustable dispite having a slot in it..turning it will twist the wire soldered to it resulting in a broken wire. That pin will only spin, and again its not adjustable with a screwdriver.

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[Teresa P]

I tried checking for firmware updates and there are none available. I think it just took a powder.

 

[rj9923]

I tried checking for firmware updates and there are none available. I think it just took a powder.

I successfully updated the firmware just now. It took forever for pioneer's website to load, and their software is incompetent, but it's possible.
But even after the update, the device still does not fire.

This is so upsetting. I just don't understand why it worked fine for a solid 3ml of juice and then stopped.

 

[smacksy]

I successfully updated the firmware just now. It took forever for pioneer's website to load, and their software is incompetent, but it's possible.
But even after the update, the device still does not fire.

This is so upsetting. I just don't understand why it worked fine for a solid 3ml of juice and then stopped.

I really don't know what to say either as I got my two V4's on pre-order 6 months ago and they still work great.. I mean like no issues at all so it's kind of hard to understand why you're mod quit suddenly... hope you get it figured out because the ipv4 is really a good mod, as least it's been that way with me or I wouldn't own two of them..good luck!

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[rj9923]

Update: I found an adapter from my box of random electronics. It is a 9 volt AC adapter that outputs 200mA, and the connector fits in the mod. I can't find any information on what the IPV4 requires though. All I can find is 9v. Whether it needs AC or DC, I don't know. Rip Trippers said on his review that it requires a 9volt AC adapter, but I don't trust him and I think it should be DC...

Scared to plug this in right now... What should I do? Does it need AC or DC power?

 

[smacksy]

Update: I found an adapter from my box of random electronics. It is a 9 volt AC adapter that outputs 200mA, and the connector fits in the mod. I can't find any information on what the IPV4 requires though. All I can find is 9v. Whether it needs AC or DC, I don't know. Rip Trippers said on his review that it requires a 9volt AC adapter, but I don't trust him and I think it should be DC...

Scared to plug this in right now... What should I do? Does it need AC or DC power?

Because of issues with the charging board I would not use a 9 volt charger. I would go down to my local vape shop and get a separate batt charger.. I wouldn't trust on board charging, but that's just me. This photo shows what can happen when the charging board shorts out

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[Vapin4Joy]

Update: I found an adapter from my box of random electronics. It is a 9 volt AC adapter that outputs 200mA, and the connector fits in the mod. I can't find any information on what the IPV4 requires though. All I can find is 9v. Whether it needs AC or DC, I don't know. Rip Trippers said on his review that it requires a 9volt AC adapter, but I don't trust him and I think it should be DC...

Scared to plug this in right now... What should I do? Does it need AC or DC power?

I have been using one for six months, no issues, no problems, 9v AC charger. AC in, 9v DC out.
Wake and Vape stocks the ipv4 charger for 9 bucks.

 

[rj9923]

Just plugged it into a 9v 200mA charger. It's been a few minutes and I don't feel any heat. The LED is on, but when I look at the screen it does not have a charging battery sign. Does it display something about the batteries charging or no?

I think people were having problems because the device was never provided with an adapter and they would just plug it into any transformer that would fit, and thus short it out. But given that it supposedly takes 9v at 2 amps, and my charger is only 200 milliamps, it couldn't hurt anything. Of course, if it is working, it will take forever to charge.

 

[rj9923]

I have been using one for six months, no issues, no problems, 9v AC charger. AC in, 9v DC out.
Wake and Vape stocks the ipv4 charger for 9 bucks.

Does your adapter say "output:9v AC" or "output: 9v DC"? Because I found a site that sells an adapter specifically for the IPV4. It is advertised as 9vAC, but I zoomed in on the stock photo and it said "input AC, output DC".

 

[smacksy]

Yep, it will take a long time to charge.. but with the battery shell on ball bearings I can swap batteries out in 30 seconds. Fast and easy and safe. I'm not the one to run the risk shorting out on a charger and burning my damn house down. I'd rather be safe than sorry, lol

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[Vapin4Joy]

Does your adapter say "output:9v AC" or "output: 9v DC"? Because I found a site that sells an adapter specifically for the IPV4. It is advertised as 9vAC, but I zoomed in on the stock photo and it said "input AC, output DC".

Make sure you have the ipv4 off, when on charge the red led will be on, when the charge is done the red led will be off. Mine takes about 3.5 hours to fully charge, usually it gets a little warm.

 

[Teresa P]

I always took the batteries out to charge. And it's updated as far as it will go. It's something in the contact pin, it's not making a solid connection for some reason.

 

[MrScaryZ]

So my bandmate found a lost IPV 4 and arctic tank laying around at work or something and nobody claimed it. He gave it to me since he doesn't vape. I just have a few questions since I've never had a mod.

At first it worked pretty well, but after a few minutes it started giving very innacurate resistance readings, and sometimes not firing. Eventually it kept on saying check atomizer, and I put three different atomizers on it. An ijust 2, an RDA, and the arctic. The battery looks like it's about a third full according to the meter, so I don't quite know if it's dead yet. I have to get a 9v AC adapter to charge it apparently. It also has two samsung batteries in it.

I know this may very well be because the batteries could be dead, but I wanted to double check with you guys before investing in an AC adapter or even new batteries. Is this device broken? It does look pretty beat up.

I have had all of the P4U mods the most common issue is the firing button on the Chip either starts shorting or randomly gets stuck there is one thing you can try.. If you run to radio shack get some Detoxit or any shop that has it.. Its electronic cleaner I use it periodically .. Just unscrew the plastic see the board and spray the living Bejesus out of it.. work the buttons then let her dry for about a half hour and give it a go.. This will insure if any Ejuice has made itself into the switches or shorting out a trace on the boards it is not a surface contaminant..

 

[rj9923]

So after just ten minutes plugged in, the LED turns off and it stops charging. Still turns on, but almost no battery life

 

[rj9923]

Fixed it! Above the batteries you see the inverter for AC power. Every time an atty was screwed in, the pin would push the inverter board down and it would short out on the battery compartment. Just some liquid electrical tape between there and it works again.

 

[Teresa P]

Pssssst! You need to rewrap that battery on the left....js.....
Good job!

 

[Bean8379]

Fixed it! View attachment 33417Above the batteries you see the inverter for AC power. Every time an atty was screwed in, the pin would push the inverter board down and it would short out on the battery compartment. Just some liquid electrical tape between there and it works again.

Isn't it awesome when you find out its the tiniest little issue and a 30 second repair gets it working again? I love stories like that.

 

[Vapin4Joy]

Pssssst! You need to rewrap that battery on the left....js.....
Good job!

+1

 

[AmandaD]

Pssssst! You need to rewrap that battery on the left....js.....
Good job!

My IPV4 did that to my batteries. A blast from the hairdryer fixed them without having to rewrap

 

[Teresa P]

My IPV4 did that to my batteries. A blast from the hairdryer fixed them without having to rewrap

I think that one is in full fledged rip mode....lol!
The 4s was a little different, I believe. But the 4s is the only one I've owned. Really wanna get mine fixed, I loved it.

 

[AmandaD]

I think that one is in full fledged rip mode....lol!
The 4s was a little different, I believe. But the 4s is the only one I've owned. Really wanna get mine fixed, I loved it.

I only see the tops chewed up! Mine did that every time I put them in and out, so without the hairdryer I'd have been wrapping every day

 

[Teresa P]

My Sig 150 eats wraps for lunch, shreds them in no time. The iPv never did that.

 

[rj9923]

My Sig 150 eats wraps for lunch, shreds them in no time. The iPv never did that.

I apologize for my ignorance, but why does it matter that my wraps are a little crinkled at the top? Everything still looks insulated.

 

[smacksy]

I apologize for my ignorance, but why does it matter that my wraps are a little crinkled at the top? Everything still looks insulated.

Why are your wraps crinkling in your mod in the first place? I mean like I've been changing out these AWT batts in the IPV4 for a couple months now..as you can see they are not crinkled at all..just curious what causes batts to crinkle...

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[AmandaD]

The sammies may be slightly longer - my IPV4 tore mine up too.

 

[Vapin4Joy]

I apologize for my ignorance, but why does it matter that my wraps are a little crinkled at the top? Everything still looks insulated.

Battery safety, there's a chance of shorting out when the wrap is damaged and possibly boom!

 

[rj9923]

Well... It's not working again. The 9v adapter still won't charge it, and it keeps saying 'check atomizer' with all three of mine.

I don't understand. I've had all the circut boards completely removed from the case and I checked every single part for shorts. Like Theresa mentioned, it could be the 510 pin, but I watch the inside as I screw in attys and it rebounds just as it should as it comes in contact.

The batteries are pretty dead though. When it was working, barely any vapor was produced. Do any of you have 'check atomizer' warnings when your batteries are completely dead?

Fasttech has a single 18650 charger for like two bucks. I may just get that.

 

[AmandaD]

I've never had a check atomizer issue unless there was something wrong with the 510.

Those batteries may have run down too low. If you have a multimeter you should be able to check voltage.

I wouldn't buy a cheap battery charger though - and even at 1 amp they'll take about 3 hours to charge as a pair!

 

[Vapin4Joy]

I got check atomizer a couple of times with my ipv4, after trying everything to fix it, I finally backed the tank off a half turn and it worked, showed me the 510 was the issue. I cleaned it very well and to this day I keep it clean, or the batteries are toast.

 

[rj9923]

I've never had a check atomizer issue unless there was something wrong with the 510.

Those batteries may have run down too low. If you have a multimeter you should be able to check voltage.

I wouldn't buy a cheap battery charger though - and even at 1 amp they'll take about 3 hours to charge as a pair!

I checked with a multimeter earlier. 3.31 on one, 3.35 volts for the other

 

[Cloudy Peak Vapes]

Do you mean poor build quality as in how I may build my coils? Because I could just charge the mod with no atty attached.

The batteries are samsung 18650s which I believe are common. I do have a multimeter, but for all I know they're completely discharged right now because I have no mod battery charger. I do have a box laying around with random AC and DC chargers for broken electronics, so hopefully I can find a 9v AC when I get home. Also, if it does drain one battery quicker than the other I can probably wire it to take just one battery. I don't need all that life.

I've read so many great reviews on this thing; I'm suprised you guys are mentioning all of this.

Perhaps I should just sell the device as is because it doesn't seem practical to spend money on a charger and batteries if the device itself is defective.

I would say that whoever lost it didn't care to come back for it because it could be broken, but then again there was an Arctic V2 attached to it in fine condition, and I believe those are expensive.

One thing I should add: Before researching this device, I plugged a mini USB charger into it and wondered why it was not charging. I then read that the usb port is for updates. Could I have broken it by trying to charge through the usb?

I didn't mean your builds as in your attys, I meant the poor build quality, or rather lack of quality control by P4Y. Everything I'd say has been mentioned. The insulation between the charging board and the post for the top hex screw is not robust enough, and misplaced on some models, especially early ones. That's why atty or not, on or off, you can run into shorts, and there are already pics of what that will do.

If you absolutely have to try to use it, take the charging board out at least. I wouldn't trust that device though. You found it, it has problems, no money spent on your end. And that one battery wrapper is no good. Aside from the positive contact, the entire body of the battery is negative, so if that wrapper is compromised and it touches something conductive, you can have problems. I'd definitely toss the batts at least.

This all might have been said, I skimmed the thread this morning, and or you might already know all of the things I typed. I'm just looking out for your safety man. When in doubt, I go with caution when I have something with two 18650's that can push 120 watts. You've kinda gone through the whole device aside from removing the board, so I say take it out at least. The 510 shorting out kinda suggests that the device is done in my book. I can troubleshoot mechs, but wires and chips are not my thing. You seem better acquainted with that then me, however, at least remove the board. There are many pics and write ups, it seems super easy.

And all these battery wraps getting destroyed seems strange. I always use the ribbon, combined with a light push on the spring loaded terminal, and I can pop them out of all my devices just fine. If you just use the ribbon, I can see that happening. Just a thought.

Good luck OP, and just be safe. That's all.

 

[BadLuckAndTrouble]

@Break-19

You like the 4s more than your Li?

 

[smacksy]

@Break-19

You like the 4s more than your Li?

Actually I don't have the Li or the 4s..
I have the original IPV3 and IPV4..
The batt cover in the V3 uses screws and of course the batt cover in the V4 slides on ball bearings... Only other difference is the V3 is 150w vs 100w in the V4... Seldom vape over 80w anyway so both are very good performers..between the two I like the comfortable grip on the V4, as the V3 is a little more boxy feeling in the hand.. The V4 has TC but I don't use it...I think TC may be overrated as I don't like it myself...lol


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[Cloudy Peak Vapes]

@Break-19

You like the 4s more than your Li?

I have a 3, 4, and an Li. The Li is vastly superior in build quality over the 4, and there are some nice updates over the 3. TC obviously, sliding battery door, touch sensor, etc...

 

[rj9923]

UPDATE:
I believe the device is completely fixed now, and I have a method of charging it.

In all, I removed the charging board since it was getting pushed down on my the 510 pin, I removed the ball bearings on the case, any unnecessary screws, and coated the inside of the case with a thin layer of liquid electrical tape to prevent any other possible shorts. I sealed the top venting hole and the hole where the charging adapter used to go with electrical tape because people claimed that their juice was getting in there. I also re-wrapped the batteries and sprayed everything down with powershot electric motor cleaner.
It turns out, there was nothing mechanically wrong with the 510 connection, as the powershot made it work again. After finding the device worked again, I re-soldered some of the connections anyways for good measure.

I have a homemade charger for batteries (primarily car batteries) that can be set between 6-20 volts, and 1-10 amps. I just clamped some leads onto the battery compartment, set the charger for 8 volts at 1 amp (the mod has the batteries in series), and the batteries charge fine.

Device works fine, but the resistance readings are still inconsistent. It also goes all the way up to 120 watts, which is odd because I thought this was a 100 watt device. I won't be going over 90 anyways.

Anyways, it works, but I will make another update if something goes wrong again.

 

[Vapin4Joy]

That's good news, if you see 120w, whoever owned it updated it. Pioneer put out a update for the ipv4, it also included the ability to fire Titanium.

 

[rj9923]

That's good news, if you see 120w, whoever owned it updated it. Pioneer put out a update for the ipv4, it also included the ability to fire Titanium.

I actually updated it before fixing it, so that's probably it. But jeez, my Ijust 2 is 40 watts and that seems like enough for me. I only see myself using this ipv4 to get more out of a tank, but RDA wise, 40 watts is plenty for me.

 

[smacksy]

I actually updated it before fixing it, so that's probably it. But jeez, my Ijust 2 is 40 watts and that seems like enough for me. I only see myself using this ipv4 to get more out of a tank, but RDA wise, 40 watts is plenty for me.

I run a crown at 65-70w and the Tfv4 at 75-80w on my IPV4...I really like the flavor and vapor on these two subtanks and the dual batts in the V4 go for a couple days on a single charge...just sayin

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[Vapin4Joy]

I run a crown at 65-70w and the Tfv4 at 75-80w on my IPV4...I really like the flavor and vapor on these two subtanks and the dual batts in the V4 go for a couple days on a single charge...just sayin

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Yep!

 

[rj9923]

Another update: Still works fine besides the lousy ohm readings. I think the 510 connection may still be weak because between during a drag, it sometimes starts off weak and then jolts way up as if the voltage was cranked up another 30 wats, or vice-versa.

I came back here to ask though, how long does your device typically hold a charge for? I was expecting about two or three days from this device, but it seems that it lasts about 1 to 1.5 days on a full charge. Just wondering if that's an indicator the batteries are old.

 

[AmandaD]

Another update: Still works fine besides the lousy ohm readings. I think the 510 connection may still be weak because between during a drag, it sometimes starts off weak and then jolts way up as if the voltage was cranked up another 30 wats, or vice-versa.

I came back here to ask though, how long does your device typically hold a charge for? I was expecting about two or three days from this device, but it seems that it lasts about 1 to 1.5 days on a full charge. Just wondering if that's an indicator the batteries are old.

I think it totally depends how many mls and what wattage you're using!

I go through around 30mls a day at around 65 watts on my Asolo, and I change batteries (dual) about three times during the day!