Wow, what the actual F just happened-Fire in TC inhale.

[conanthewarrior]

I received my goblin mini clone today, and was loving it in single coil mode.

I thought I would try TC-I wasn't very impressed, but thought I will finish the tank and then swap back to a single coil.

I was taking a draw, and about three seconds in a massive WHOOSH and intense heat in my mouth and back of throat-I managed to react quickly, but my mouth feels burned like you have eaten something too hot from the oven.

This was on my Xcube 2-Titanium, Dual coil 0.12(I usually make them around 0.15 but this was 0.12).

I was vaping it at 220C, and was down to around a 1/4 juice when it happened.

It was on the xcube 2.

It scared the shit out of me-and my missus was laying next to me also and was like what the fuck was that, I can smell burning. I told her what happened, I am VERY confused.

I am emptying this and going back to a single micro coil, as it was. It drunk less juice, plus didn't set fire.

I was loving the goblin-any ideas as to what happened here? I think I will use this as a kanthal only device from now on.

 

[bondo]

Holy shit bro bro! I hope you're ok!!!

I have no clue why it would do that in temp but let us know what the coil/wick look like when you pull it apart.

 

[Zamazam]

Could be the mod popped out of TC for that to happen. I'd not use that mod for TC again. Power only.

 

[Hottvapz]

TC on the cube sucks donkey ass....mine stays on power mode only

 

[Teresa P]

I haven't used my X Cube in tc mode yet.....now I'm not so sure I will.

 

[z man]

Wow!....I'm glad Your O.K. I thought juice won't light....Z

 

[stevegmu]

TC is hokey and just illusion of safety...

 

[snake94115]

Holy bananas I hope you're alright.

 

[ChrisL]

Might have to experiment, but it might not do that with another atty or sub ohm tank with Ni200 coils. Vape safe!

 

[Jimi D]

Sounds like a hot spot on the coil. I bet the coil popped.

 

[conanthewarrior]

Holy shit bro bro! I hope you're ok!!!

I have no clue why it would do that in temp but let us know what the coil/wick look like when you pull it apart.

It should of been soaked due to the tank-but the cotton was burnt all over! The coils were actually intact though-not broken. I am perplexed what the hell happened, I was using a new tank and a new juice I made-Cappella V2 custard. I fancied a change, so I don't know if it was the new goblins fault, but I don't think it was as it seems perfect, the coils were actually at the resistance they read at when built, and 220C is pretty cool, so I really don't know how it happened. Is machine oil flammable? I cleaned it when I got it, but I am trying to work out why it happened.

But, the Xcube does provide the least smooth TC experience-I love its style, but think its going to just be used as a 180W standard mod now. If I didn't pull away as I heard the whoosh, I think I would of actually got burns to my mouth and throat if I was stupid enough to carry on inhaling.

It feels OK now, just a little like you have eaten a bit of melted cheese that is too hot and it burns your mouth for a bit-but all over inside.

I have used the Xcube since I got it for TC, and it had been fine-but with this happening, I think I will use it as power only-I will use my Sig 150, D2, Sig 75, and DNA200. I don't think its worth it. I quite like my throat working properly lol.

Thing is-I have only recently in the past month and a half started to use TC really-before I just used standard kanthal. At least with that you can tell when a wick is dry due to the taste, and avoid fiery incidents.

 

[lordmage]

did you give the coil head time to saturate thoroughly what might have happened was it preheated a dry cotton base. and burnt it to hell. or power mode which has been suggested

 

[Powerman]

So what was your power set to? I know you were in TC, but at what power.

 

[Maximumoverdrive]

Was your Tit build contact or spaced coils? For Titanium to be reliable they should be spaced only! This is because you should not ever oxidize Titanium coils & therefore you have no electrical insulation between the coil wraps. The unoxidized contact coils will short/hot leg & kick out of TC mode. That's where Powerman's question come into play.

So what was your power set to? I know you were in TC, but at what power.

If your power was set way above what you would use in watt mode then when/if it kicks out you get

 

[BadLuckAndTrouble]

Damn. Someone else posted about an evic vtc mini shooting a fireball in Ti TC about a week ago.

On another note how do you like that Goblin Mini clone when you're not inhaling flames lol.

 

[Deucesjack]

That mod was not ready for the public. Extremely buggy. Shame on Smok.

 

[BigNasty]

That mod was not ready for the public. Extremely buggy. Shame on Smok.

Show me a product that Smok EVER released that was ready or functional as they claimed.

 

[msrfrog]

Show me a product that Smok EVER released that was ready or functional as they claimed.

I had a m22 that melted down on me.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

 

[Deucesjack]

Show me a product that Smok EVER released that was ready or functional as they claimed.

Yep, aside from their tanks Smok will never see another $1 of my box mod money.

 

[Broadside Vaporz]

Haven't had a fire issue, but have had my x cube 2 pop out of tc twice. Both times it was from same tank to same dripper, both ni 200, asked new coil yes and bam... the temp control is rough on the cube anyhow...

 

[conanthewarrior]

So what was your power set to? I know you were in TC, but at what power.

I don't know the power-the Xcube 2 doesn't allow you to select power in TC mode, just temperature and it does the rest.

It usually jumps to around 50-60 watts to preheat, then drops to between 10-20 watts to maintain temp-I know this through using the app on my phone to see the actual wattage, as the Xcube does not allow you to choose wattage in TC mode like other mods.

All I know I was at 220C and soft mode. The wicks were pre dripped with juice before I put the tank together, and it seemed to be taking juice fine-as I was from a full tank down to around 1/4-1/3Rd and was going to swap it out after back to a standard, single kanthal coil, as TC didn't seem that good with that tank, I preferred standard vaping with the goblin Mini.

It was still in TC mode 100 percent, it didn't pop into watt mode-unless it did, then switched back to TC without me knowing-but I have the screen reversed so I can view it during use, I didn't see any change.

It has never happened before-so all I can think of is the tank. I have used the Xcube for TC fine previously-so much so that I had gone Exclusively TC on it-as set at min or soft, it is actually quite smooth.

I have no idea what happened, but I wont be using that tank in TC mode again. Maybe the mod as well, as that was REALLY dodgy.

I have plenty of other TC mods to use, and will have my DNA200 back hopefully the end of this week-latest mid next week. But, I loved the styling of the Xcube. My Mum calls it the James Bond one, as she thinks it looks like a gadget he would have lol.

 

[Zamazam]

Look at it this way, the TC is supposed to prevent burned hits and it was working fine for you up to the point of igniting the cotton. Since the build you had was working fine before the incident, the only other plausible explanation is that the mod failed at TC and pumped high watts directly to the coils. I've made some stupidly low builds in a dripper before and while pulsing one with juice on it, had it ignite, but that was on a mech with no TC nor protection. Don't use the Smok mod for anything but power and you'll be safe.

The Mini-Goblin has a tiny deck, so there might of been an arc from the coil to the chimney wall, igniting the cotton. I use a 2 mm mandrel to make my coils in mine. not a whole lot of room otherwise.

 

[conanthewarrior]

OK-my first impressions of SMOK were bad, due to the RSBT2 tank I bought when I first started vaping-it used normal glass-so shattered on the third day.

I thought SMOK was a well known, respected company now though-and I managed to get some actual pyrex for the RSBT2, and I use it all the time now.

So it seems they have a history of bad mods? I think the actual Mod itself is ready-but the firmware is not ready-and this 1.093 is still a beta version of firmware.

I doubt I will be getting another SMOK product if they have history of bad craftsmanship ETC. I was going to get a treebox-but probably will get a different wooden mech now.

 

[conanthewarrior]

I doubt it was the Tank Conan. Look at it this way, the TC is supposed to prevent burned hits and it was working fine for you up to the point of igniting the cotton. Since the build you had was working fine before the incident, the only other plausible explanation is that the mod failed at TC and pumped high watts directly to the coils. I've made some stupidly low builds in a dripper before and while pulsing one with juice on it, had it ignite, but that was on a mech with no TC nor protection. Don't use the Smok mod for anything but power and you'll be safe.

That is very true.

The thing that has me perplexed, is it has NEVER once done this before-I am one of the lucky ones, I have had to flash it a lot to get it working correctly, and completely erase it so it would not even turn on, then load the firmware to get bugs out-but never a fire incident.

It is slightly annoying, as the Xcube was my current choice for TI builds. I have a D2 though to do that, just the battery life is a bit crappy due to single battery and all. I have enough batteries, but I do prefer dual battery mods now, the singles I just use as take out vapes for more stealth-but to be honest I have started to take the dual battery devices out as I know it wont die on my halfway home.

What other dual battery mod would you recommend that does TI as well as NI200 correctly?

My sigelei TC mods are only NI200-I know you can run TI if you turn the temp down, but its still not correct so I don't like doing that.

Lets hope the DNA gets back quickly-as the battery life on that was better, even with the bad battery, than the D2.

Maybe I should start using just NI200-but then that defeats the purpose of me having 26 gauge TI for dual coils, Doesn't it?

 

[Zamazam]

The DNA200 is a good board. Some mods are fairly priced. I've converted over to stainless steel wire for TC and Non-TC. Better taste IMHO, plus it won't ignite like Ti if it gets too hot, nor produce that funky skunk flavor of Ni200 if it scorches the cotton. You might want to save your ducats and get a DNA200. I have a Protovapor one and love it. The Vaporshark's Li power pack is easily replaceable and is available at hobby stores, plus it zip charges at 2 amperes.

 

[Nancy_Bout]

I am not KOOKOO for TC sorry this happened to you


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[conanthewarrior]

The DNA200 is a good board. Some mods are fairly priced. I've converted over to stainless steel wire for TC and Non-TC. Better taste IMHO, plus it won't ignite like Ti if it gets too hot, nor produce that funky skunk flavor of Ni200 if it scorches the cotton. You might want to save your ducats and get a DNA200. I have a Protovapor one and love it. The Vaporshark's Li power pack is easily replaceable and is available at hobby stores, plus it zip charges at 2 amperes.

Hi mate- I do have a DNA200-it is currently on the way back from Evolv as it needed repair. Thing is, I am in the UK.

Evolvs turnaround time was amazing though, they got my device, fixed it, and sent it out with a tracking number THE SAME DAY that they got it.

I am hoping for a fast flight as its on the way to an airport, I may even have it back by the weekend-the latest is probably Tuesday.

It was a hotcig-so had a dead battery and the board was fudged, gearbest wouldn't help, but Evolv and paypal did. I bought a new battery for the Hotcig-that arrived at 11.31 volts, not 3.7 volts like the first li-po, and should work great .

I am counting down the days till I get it, really looking forward to it, as I had 4 profiles when it worked with the bad battery and before the board completely failed-Ni200 as standard, TI, SS, and kanthal. All were set with an 80W preheat and a punch of around 7.3 as I liked that.

To answer the qeustion of how did I like the goblin-I love it. I am using it right now on my Sig 150TC but in power mode, with a 2MM 0.8 coil at around just 14 watts. I don't need super high power-although I do occasionally push my mods for fun-but to me pushing is duals at 80W, 100 W maximum lol.

Guess I should really be using the standard one, and saving these batteries for TC use lol-as all my mods have batteries in, plus spares for when the battery dies.

Most of my mods get used at least once a day, even if it is for 10 minutes with a dripper.

I was using spaced Titanium coils-I learnt a while back with TC to use spaced coils.

So, the Xcube is OK, but I think I will use it just for standard power. If I am honest-I quite like standard power anyway, and was slowly converting to TC-but I just see it as a bonus.

I also noticed someone else mentioning the Evic VT mini doing the same a few weeks ago-I wanted to get this mod next! I wonder if it is OK with NI200-I will take your advice though and try some SS.

What gauge would you suggest for just standard, flavoursome vaping? My favourite gauge of kanthal is 26, NI200 28 as 26 is too low resistance, 30 too thin I find to produce nice clouds and flavour-so SS is new territory to me-and the only mods I will own that can do that is the Xcube 2 and the DNA200.

I think I may start using NI200 now though, along with SS on devices that allow it.

If I don't find that I like it that much-I am happy with kanthal. It works, and to adjust the temperature I just turn up the wattage lol. Just is simpler for me.

I know my DNA200 is a hotcig-but it will be the best hotcig about, having a new board and being put together by evolv themselves. I understand LI-Pos quite well as I was a RC heli guy when I was younger-In fact the turnigy Li-Po I got will fit my T-rex 250-and I got a pack of 1S 160MAH LI-Pos for my Blade MSR this morning (Small, indoor heli).

 

[Nancy_Bout]

Ok I am vaping the crown on the evicVT on NI coil
It's. Not bad it's OK BUT the regular kanthal coil was way by far much BETTER.
I'm just using it cause I have it and let it go...maybe few more days and I'm tossing it... Never buying it(came w my tank)
I have .5 and .25 on the way and they are my favorites


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[conanthewarrior]

Ok I am vaping the crown on the evicVT on NI coil
It's. Not bad it's OK BUT the regular kanthal coil was way by far much BETTER.
I'm just using it cause I have it and let it go...maybe few more days and I'm tossing it... Never buying it(came w my tank)
I have .5 and .25 on the way and they are my favorites


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok, I think I will get the Evic VT mini as I love the green one-plus my fiancee is called cheyenne, and the colour is called Cyan, and they are pronounced exactly the same, just without the H so I know she will like that one too.

She has started doing something I never thought though-building dual coils in a dripper called a two face with a massive chuff cap and learning vape tricks. Now shes stopped smoking she is having fun.

I think I might get her a dual battery box mod for christmas, as she is going through batteries well fast, and 50W may not be enough for her. I am actually pretty shocked lol.

What would you recommend as a reliable, fairly cheap 100W/100W+ box mod, it doesn't need to be TC-she told me she does not want to use TC as it does not interest her, she likes knowing when her dripper is dry by taste, and I am cool with that. I was thinking an Istick 100 as its only £40, but not sure what they are like.

 

[MrScaryZ]

I received my goblin mini clone today, and was loving it in single coil mode.

I thought I would try TC-I wasn't very impressed, but thought I will finish the tank and then swap back to a single coil.

I was taking a draw, and about three seconds in a massive WHOOSH and intense heat in my mouth and back of throat-I managed to react quickly, but my mouth feels burned like you have eaten something too hot from the oven.

This was on my Xcube 2-Titanium, Dual coil 0.12(I usually make them around 0.15 but this was 0.12).

I was vaping it at 220C, and was down to around a 1/4 juice when it happened.

It was on the xcube 2.

It scared the shit out of me-and my missus was laying next to me also and was like what the fuck was that, I can smell burning. I told her what happened, I am VERY confused.

I am emptying this and going back to a single micro coil, as it was. It drunk less juice, plus didn't set fire.

I was loving the goblin-any ideas as to what happened here? I think I will use this as a kanthal only device from now on.

Sounds like it misread the OHM settings or messed up on reading the TI wires temp and through out an incorrect wattage and or Boost (Min,Norm,Hard,Max) setting.. I never experienced that with mine but I only use Stainless Steel for many reasons..

 

[MrScaryZ]

The DNA200 is a good board. Some mods are fairly priced. I've converted over to stainless steel wire for TC and Non-TC. Better taste IMHO, plus it won't ignite like Ti if it gets too hot, nor produce that funky skunk flavor of Ni200 if it scorches the cotton. You might want to save your ducats and get a DNA200. I have a Protovapor one and love it. The Vaporshark's Li power pack is easily replaceable and is available at hobby stores, plus it zip charges at 2 amperes.

Thats the end reason I moved to SS is TI's ignition at odd times...

 

[Powerman]

I don't know the power-the Xcube 2 doesn't allow you to select power in TC mode, just temperature and it does the rest.

It usually jumps to around 50-60 watts to preheat, then drops to between 10-20 watts to maintain temp-I know this through using the app on my phone to see the actual wattage, as the Xcube does not allow you to choose wattage in TC mode like other mods.

All I know I was at 220C and soft mode. The wicks were pre dripped with juice before I put the tank together, and it seemed to be taking juice fine-as I was from a full tank down to around 1/4-1/3Rd and was going to swap it out after back to a standard, single kanthal coil, as TC didn't seem that good with that tank, I preferred standard vaping with the goblin Mini.

It was still in TC mode 100 percent, it didn't pop into watt mode-unless it did, then switched back to TC without me knowing-but I have the screen reversed so I can view it during use, I didn't see any change.

It has never happened before-so all I can think of is the tank. I have used the Xcube for TC fine previously-so much so that I had gone Exclusively TC on it-as set at min or soft, it is actually quite smooth.

I have no idea what happened, but I wont be using that tank in TC mode again. Maybe the mod as well, as that was REALLY dodgy.

I have plenty of other TC mods to use, and will have my DNA200 back hopefully the end of this week-latest mid next week. But, I loved the styling of the Xcube. My Mum calls it the James Bond one, as she thinks it looks like a gadget he would have lol.

Ya, my 200 can get a little squirrely with SS because of the Nickle legs. So I lowered the watts in TC and power incase it was coming out of TC. Sometimes the ohms jumps around. And it would fire what ever I had. I figured it was limited so what does it matter if my watts were high. It wasn't doing that. But when the resistance jumped around, ya it did what ever I had.

So now I lock ohms and set my limits to no more than I want and it has behaved better and no more random hot hits. But your thing, that's bad. Not sure if settings protect you if it shorted or lost its mind.

 

[Wingsfan0310]

@conanthewarrior If you're looking for a good dual 18650 mod, take a look at an IPV3 Li. I have one and it was my workhorse until I received my DNA200 mods. The 3Li has a very good Yihi chip, TC for both Ni200 and Ti1, user upgradeable too 200watts (100j for Ti, 50j for Ni200), and built like a tank.

Cheers,
Steve

 

[conanthewarrior]

@conanthewarrior If you're looking for a good dual 18650 mod, take a look at an IPV3 Li. I have one and it was my workhorse until I received my DNA200 mods. The 3Li has a very good Yihi chip, TC for both Ni200 and Ti1, user upgradeable too 200watts (100j for Ti, 50j for Ni200), and built like a tank.

Cheers,
Steve

This was a mod I was thinking of buying a few months ago-is it as smooth as the Sigelei 150 in TC mode?

If it is a very smooth TC experience, I can get it when I get payed staturday after next. Throws the Evic VT mini out the window, but if it performs better, I will get that plus some new batteries for it.

Also-Regarding stainless steel- What gauge would you suggest for someone who just want to vape fairly normallly? I like 26 gauge kanthal the best if that helps, and use 26 gauge TI for dual coil builds, and 28 gauge NI200 as 26 is too low resistance for me and 30 gauge is too thin to provide enough cloud and breaks easily, thats what I find anyway. Also-what type of stainless steel do we use for vaping?

So I will be getting my DNA200 back-But as my other TC mods I can use the Sig150, D2, SIg 75, and I guess the Xcube 2 but in SS mode, plus the IPV 3 LI when I buy it. I think it will be better than getting the evic vt mini to be honest.

So what gauge would you suggest for SS? People who use SS would be helpful-a gauge I can build single or dual coils in, with a fair resistance, as I am not sure of SS's resistance.

Thanks people.

 

[conanthewarrior]

Thats the end reason I moved to SS is TI's ignition at odd times...

So it is fairly common for TI to ignite at random times? Ok I am not using TI, I am going to use NI200 from now on, and SS.

I just don't know what type to get, and what gauge for standard coils, single and dual. I can get a couple of gauges if someone could recommend-I want them to turn out in the TC range of under 0.3 though.

Thanks everyone, Conan.

 

[MrScaryZ]

So it is fairly common for TI to ignite at random times? Ok I am not using TI, I am going to use NI200 from now on, and SS.

I just don't know what type to get, and what gauge for standard coils, single and dual. I can get a couple of gauges if someone could recommend-I want them to turn out in the TC range of under 0.3 though.

Thanks everyone, Conan.

I cannot say it is common or not as I do not feel like Metallurgy is my forte. I do know that for me it has undesirable results and has just burned up coils at low temps .. why? freak me that is why I went to SS and just no longer care about any other TC wire

 

[Wingsfan0310]

So it is fairly common for TI to ignite at random times? Ok I am not using TI, I am going to use NI200 from now on, and SS.

I just don't know what type to get, and what gauge for standard coils, single and dual. I can get a couple of gauges if someone could recommend-I want them to turn out in the TC range of under 0.3 though.

Thanks everyone, Conan.

Sent you a PM Conan regarding SS wire.

Cheers,
Steve

PS I almost forgot, I see you're asking about SS resistance. The way I understand it, for the same gauge, from lowest to highest: Ni200, Ti1, SS, then Kanthal.

 

[Broadside Vaporz]

I will add one thing on the temp control as handled by the x cube...

I'm not a big fan of not selecting power in tcm. Yes there's 5 settings... but hardly enough given the range of coils that get built. Ramp is very different between 32 and 24 ga. Only coil that I've had that didn't hit over temp in a single rip, is a .08 single of 24 ga. Ni200 I guess technically it works... but i much prefer the tc on my sigelei. It's much smoother @ temp.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

 

[conanthewarrior]

I will add one thing on the temp control as handled by the x cube...

I'm not a big fan of not selecting power in tcm. Yes there's 5 settings... but hardly enough given the range of coils that get built. Ramp is very different between 32 and 24 ga. Only coil that I've had that didn't hit over temp in a single rip, is a .08 single of 24 ga. Ni200 I guess technically it works... but i much prefer the tc on my sigelei. It's much smoother @ temp.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

I prefer adjustable watts/joules too-I can use the mod normally, at say 20 watts, and not even hit the temp limit, as after all its there to stop it going above a certain temp.

It seems the Xcube however works on the principle of getting it to temp, and maintaining it-similar to the DNA200 I have (well its in the post from repairs, hopefully have it this weekend back).

But I think it was a dumb move not being able to select your wattage-I can see what they was trying to do, but sometimes I just want to use a tank at like 15 watts and vape normally, but knowing the TC will kick in if it goes above the temp. With the Xcube 2-it hits about 60W then drops to around 20 or so to maintain it.

I know you can select from min-max settings, giving you a small element of control, but its not really enough.

 

[conanthewarrior]

Look at it this way, the TC is supposed to prevent burned hits and it was working fine for you up to the point of igniting the cotton. Since the build you had was working fine before the incident, the only other plausible explanation is that the mod failed at TC and pumped high watts directly to the coils. I've made some stupidly low builds in a dripper before and while pulsing one with juice on it, had it ignite, but that was on a mech with no TC nor protection. Don't use the Smok mod for anything but power and you'll be safe.

The Mini-Goblin has a tiny deck, so there might of been an arc from the coil to the chimney wall, igniting the cotton. I use a 2 mm mandrel to make my coils in mine. not a whole lot of room otherwise.

I am thinking that the most likely explanation IS that a coil touched the chimney wall, igniting the cotton. There isn't much room in there, and it was pretty close thinking of it.

This may not be the Xcubes fault-but the coil may of drifted slightly causing this to happen-as I have used TI now for a while, and this is the first instance I have seen, I have checked the formation of Titanium oxide, and thats around 600C, and 1200C for actual ignition-so I highly doubt it actually reached 1200C, and as the coils were intact and went out themselves, I think that the coil moving and touching the chimney is likely.

I have performed tests on the Xcube all day today-just doing dry cotton burn tests-and it was working fine in Min, soft, regular, hard and max settings. This was up to 235C-at around 240C the cotton did ever so slightly brown, but I understand with a wet wick, it burns at a much higher temperature.

I really do think this was me. I shall just use the goblin with regular kanthal, as I prefer that anyway- I will use TI when my DNA200 arrives back, but also order some SS, only thing is I will have just two mods that can do it-the Xcube 2 and the DNA200.

I want to get an IPV 3 LI-can that do SS or is it only NI200 and TI?

 

[Wingsfan0310]

The 3Li only supports Ni200 and Ti1 in TC mode atm. I am hopeful P4Y willl release an update including SS TC support, but I'm not holding my breath. That being said, I've heard of people using SS in the Ti setting and lowering the temperature. I haven't tried it so I don't really know if that's a viable option.

Cheers,
Steve

 

[Powerman]

The 3Li only supports Ni200 and Ti1 in TC mode atm. I am hopeful P4Y willl release an update including SS TC support, but I'm not holding my breath. That being said, I've heard of people using SS in the Ti setting and lowering the temperature. I haven't tried it so I don't really know if that's a viable option.

Cheers,
Steve

There is no way for SS to work with Ti setting.

 

[conanthewarrior]

The 3Li only supports Ni200 and Ti1 in TC mode atm. I am hopeful P4Y willl release an update including SS TC support, but I'm not holding my breath. That being said, I've heard of people using SS in the Ti setting and lowering the temperature. I haven't tried it so I don't really know if that's a viable option.

Cheers,
Steve

Ok thanks mate-it is a mod that I want to own anyway, so it probably will be added to the list. How does it compare in TC mode to the DNA200? As I know you have a few, mine is on the way back- and all my other mods work with TC perfectly well-but the DNA just seemed to be 'smoother'. It's so hard to explain until you try one-does it have a similar 'smoothness' in TC mode?

 

[Wingsfan0310]

In my opinion, my DNA200 mods are a step above all my non DNA200 mods when it comes to TC. What I mean by that is when I'm using a DNA200 and not paying attention in TC. The vapor just stops, not even a hint of burnt taste. I really like my 3 IPV3 Li for both power and TC, but I'd be lying if I said I didn't think the DNA200 mods are a tad better/smoother at TC.

Cheers
Steve

 

[conanthewarrior]

I want to add to this-I believe it actually was MY fault that this happened.

Due to the coils and the way it looked, it seems most likely a coil touched the chimney of the mod. I am actually so sure of this I am using a dripper, in TC mode, with no issues.

I am using the velocity as there is lots of space in there, and I have been testing the mod for literally the whole day, and all was functioning well, doing the burnt cotton test multiple times, and as it has never happened before, I would say it is the goblin being a new tank, me overestimating the coil size it could take, and it moved slightly either via a knock or bump. I really should of looked as I took it apart, but I didn't think of that at the time-I just wanted to see how the coils/wick looked.

It even made me think for a moment "Shit, maybe that story of the man with a hole in his lung was true" but after about 5 minutes and realising I was not hurt-my mouth is fine now BTW-I realised it was likely complete bull, or the man was the biggest idiot ever and had completely flooded his tank and inhaled boiling juice, I have got the odd spitback or tiny bit of juice in my mouth in days gone by, but either spat it out or it was so tiny it was negligible, plus it was never hot enough to even give me a burn, let alone travel down my throat, a max of 1ML probably, whilst retaining its heat-the heat would of dissapated fast once it had seperated, so I still believe that story to be bollocks.

 

[conanthewarrior]

In my opinion, my DNA200 mods are a step above all my non DNA200 mods when it comes to TC. What I mean by that is when I'm using a DNA200 and not paying attention in TC. The vapor just stops, not even a hint of burnt taste. I really like my 3 IPV3 Li for both power and TC, but I'd be lying if I said I didn't think the DNA200 mods are a tad better/smoother at TC.

Cheers
Steve

OK I like your honest reply. I gather it is still a very good mod as I hear people talking highly of them-its better to get the IPV 3 LI than the IPV4 isn't it?

 

[Zamazam]

I've been giving the whole TC thing a lot of thought and used both Ti and Ni200. I'm convinced SS is the way to go for both flavor and safety. You can make contact coils with SS and not fuckup the readings. Plus, it's easy to work with and damn cheap. Go to a farm store or hardware store and get a kilo spool of SS316L or SS317 that welders use for mig welding, make sure just to get the wire with no flux core. Should cost you about a fiver in the UK.

 

[conanthewarrior]

I've been giving the whole TC thing a lot of thought and used both Ti and Ni200. I'm convinced SS is the way to go for both flavor and safety. You can make contact coils with SS and not fuckup the readings. Plus, it's easy to work with and damn cheap. Go to a farm store or hardware store and get a kilo spool of SS316L or SS317 that welders use for mig welding, make sure just to get the wire with no flux core. Should cost you about a fiver in the UK.

OK, that is pretty bloody cheap. What gauge would you suggest to keep a 2mm coil under ten wraps for duals-Ideally say 6 wraps for duals, 10 or 11 max for single coil? As I am literally down to my last fiver untill next payday(I have other money, but that is already used really, direct debit for the gym, food ETC)

And I am now 100% positive it was me. I just went to vape my Goblin mini-and saw the ohms had gone from 0.78 to 1.63-it must be touching the chimney. I just bloody filled it as well lol. Oh well, time to recoil and make sure its no where near the edge-Thing I might go for a 1.5MM Micro coil, as I am currently using 2MM coils-but seeing as that is what I was using during the fire incident-and it appears this size has touched the chimney again due to the big resistance change, I will go back to what the device actually come with-two 1.5MM 26 G microcoils. I will run it in single coil mode though, as it provides masses of flavour, and only needs to be run at a VERY low wattage to achieve flavour, and also clouds. I run it at between 12-14 watts, and that actually gives amazing flavour, plus clouds that are very reasonable.

This brings me into question-what started the craze of 150W+ Boxes when you can achieve a very similar result with the right coil at a much, much lower wattage? I have only ever run my boxes max to test that they can do it-they all can, apart from the Xcube 2. The most I have managed is 161.something watts, so it can reach its original wattage now-but this is set at 180W with the right setup, so don't know why it won't push the full 180W, as it has at least a extra volt it could boost by, and that would bring it actually OVER 180W, but it will never, ever do it.

I also use only samsung 25R's, plus two genuine sets of VTC4's. I am never going to bother with the VTC4's anymore-this was when I thought I needed loads of watts and massive amps, now I realise I don't, and I am unlikely to go over 60W with dual coils, 25R's do it for me

 

[Wingsfan0310]

OK I like your honest reply. I gather it is still a very good mod as I hear people talking highly of them-its better to get the IPV 3 LI than the IPV4 isn't it?

I think so. I'll put it too you this way, it's my favorite non DNA200 mod. If I was too keep only 1 non DNA200 mod, the 3Li would be the one. It's more powerful, I believe it has a better Yihi chip, and last but not least, I'm not a fan of the taco shell battery cover. The way I see it, at this time, the 3Li is P4Y flagship model (top of the line).

Cheers,
Steve

 

[conanthewarrior]

I think so. I'll put it too you this way, it's my favorite non DNA200 mod. If I was too keep only 1 non DNA200 mod, the 3Li would be the one. It's more powerful, I believe it has a better Yihi chip, and last but not least, I'm not a fan of the taco shell battery cover. The way I see it, at this time, the 3Li is P4Y flagship model (top of the line).

Cheers,
Steve

Ok, that is odd isn't it. What does the LI stand for? As I understand there was the standard IPV3 with a dodgy touch sensor-how is the touch sensor on the IPV 3 LI, or do you just use the fire button?

I will probably just use the fire button and disable the sensor.

Finally, What chipset does it run? As I know the Sigelei 150W TC is a Sx V330 T, Which I gather is a modified for sigelei Yihi Sx 330 V4S, but I am not certain, but looking on Yihicigars website it seems to be the likely chip, as it is 100W TC, I can't find a 150W TC chip apart from the 350J on there, and the battery pull says YIHI SX330_T V 8.3.

I like to know what chipsets my devices have, I guess we all do who start collecting TBH.

I have done a quick google but can just find 'powered by a yihi chip' so just wondered what chip it is-I like the fact it is upgradeable, is that specifically for Pioneer4you, as I though only the SX 350J could do that?

Also, one last question-What dual battery yihi SX 350J mods are out there? I don't mind paying for it-as its coming close to TPD, I am getting the mods I really want, this included another DNA200 and I do want a YIHI SX 350J mod, but I understand there is a V2 of it coming out/just released, so wondered which mods use this chip apart from the Yihi M class mini-but that is single battery isn't it? If its dual battery, I would buy that.