i have a cuboid 200w box mod right now. I saw a panzer black hawk in my local store and fell in love with it. It's 39.99 (pretty sure it's a clone) but I still love the way it looks. I was just wondering if it'd be a good one to get. Also what 18650 battery should I use for it if I'm gonna have .19 - .05 ohm builds on it? The RDA is a doge v2. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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1st mech mod help!
Can't recommend the panzer clone. There is one out there with hot button issues. You can do better for the money.
DON'T EVER run .05's on a single battery tube mod, period and full stop. That is ridiculously beyond too much current. There are no 18650 batteries out there that even come close to being able to handle 84A of current. If you're lucky, it'll just perform badly because the battery is sagging like crazy trying to power that... ...but man, that's seriously dangerous. Stay well out of that .0x range. Good way to make a battery vent very quickly.
Learn your ohm's law, or at least figure out how to calculate the max amp draw for a coil. Steam Engine makes it real easy. Plug the coil's resistance, put the voltage at 4.2, and it will give you the max current and wattage.
Research the batteries you use. If you're using a re-wrap, make sure you know what's under the wrap and what it can actually handle. If you don't know what a re-wrap is, learn what they are and stick to the big four actual manufacturers in the meantime: Sony, Samsung, LG, and Panasonic. They make literally every 18650 battery you could possibly buy, save for a couple of oddball ones. Everything else is a re-branding of one of those four's batteries.
If you're set on building in the .1x range, then you will want a handful of low-capacity, high drain batteries. The LG HB2's are gonna be your best bets. That battery is a cut well above when it comes to 30A loads. Second bests with much better capacity that will take a 30A draw even though they're technically not 30A batteries are the VTC4's and Samsung 25r's.
I highly recommend consulting this chart for determining what batteries to get and how to run them safely.
As a general rule, keep it a good bit above .14. Even that's kinda pushing the limits of what the best batteries can safely handle. Just because you have 30A batteries doesn't mean its wise to draw the full 30A from them. Play around in the .2x range before you start dipping into the tard-ohm range... ...actually just don't do that, ever. If you can't get something good at the .2 range, then you need to work on your building chops, not build lower.
These are the sorts of questions you shouldn't be asking other people if you want to use mech mods. You should be able to answer them for yourself. Your safety is in your hands when you're dealing with unregulated power sources.
DON'T EVER run .05's on a single battery tube mod, period and full stop. That is ridiculously beyond too much current. There are no 18650 batteries out there that even come close to being able to handle 84A of current. If you're lucky, it'll just perform badly because the battery is sagging like crazy trying to power that... ...but man, that's seriously dangerous. Stay well out of that .0x range. Good way to make a battery vent very quickly.
Learn your ohm's law, or at least figure out how to calculate the max amp draw for a coil. Steam Engine makes it real easy. Plug the coil's resistance, put the voltage at 4.2, and it will give you the max current and wattage.
Research the batteries you use. If you're using a re-wrap, make sure you know what's under the wrap and what it can actually handle. If you don't know what a re-wrap is, learn what they are and stick to the big four actual manufacturers in the meantime: Sony, Samsung, LG, and Panasonic. They make literally every 18650 battery you could possibly buy, save for a couple of oddball ones. Everything else is a re-branding of one of those four's batteries.
If you're set on building in the .1x range, then you will want a handful of low-capacity, high drain batteries. The LG HB2's are gonna be your best bets. That battery is a cut well above when it comes to 30A loads. Second bests with much better capacity that will take a 30A draw even though they're technically not 30A batteries are the VTC4's and Samsung 25r's.
I highly recommend consulting this chart for determining what batteries to get and how to run them safely.
As a general rule, keep it a good bit above .14. Even that's kinda pushing the limits of what the best batteries can safely handle. Just because you have 30A batteries doesn't mean its wise to draw the full 30A from them. Play around in the .2x range before you start dipping into the tard-ohm range... ...actually just don't do that, ever. If you can't get something good at the .2 range, then you need to work on your building chops, not build lower.
These are the sorts of questions you shouldn't be asking other people if you want to use mech mods. You should be able to answer them for yourself. Your safety is in your hands when you're dealing with unregulated power sources.
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Thanks so much for the info. I'll definetly do more research before purchasing a mech. I just said .19-.05 cause I have a dual coil parallel 24g build in my RDA now running at .13 ohms, but it's a regulated dual 18650 mod. But thank you for the advice I'll stick in the .4 to .2 range.
Thank you for taking this. Nicely done.
No problem. I had to try real hard to be nice about it, though.
Some people here will not be so gentle. The information is out there for you to find. Just use the search feature and read some of the stickies around here. It's not super-heavy stuff or some academic research project. There are just a few simple things you have to know and respect about unregulated mods. Just some basic stuff you really have to know about the mechanics of how they work and some general stuff about electricity. Anybody can do it.Unrelated, but something cool about reggy boxes... ...they can safely run down to .1 (or sometimes even lower) because the power doesn't go straight from the batteries to the coil like it does in a mech mod. The wattage is first generated by the batteries and then volts are swapped for amps as needed. They use a buck converter to turn voltage from the batteries into current. To give you a quick example, a .1 will pull 38A to hit 150w, but all that the mod needs from the batteries is 20A because they are running in a series configuration, meaning they kick out 8.4v, which gives you double the wattage for your current.
The coils you will want to build for a mech will be smaller and read a little higher than what you would put on a regulated box for high power. Single battery tube mods don't have the power to drive bulky, anemic coils and again, there is a lower limit to what's considered to be a safe current ceiling. Your sub-ohm builds will need to be more power-efficient than you're probably used to... ...as in, they draw less power and need less power. Standard 22g or 24g duals, dual parallel 26, dual triple parallel 28, dual twisted 28g... ...these are the kinds of builds that will perform well at the .2 range on a mech.
If you want to go bulky with parallel 24's, claptons, and the like, try singles.
Just remember that on a good mech mod, the highest voltage you're gonna get under load will be ~3.9. You will need to build coils that can run on that without pulling exorbitant amounts of current.
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Trust me I feel like a dumbass for asking that but I just wanted info from people who know what they're doing. I wasn't expecting a nice response really but I do appreciate the help a lot, I know mechs are dangerous so I asked about the ohms. Even on my 200w I don't go past 95.5 (when in cloud comps) but when I'm just vaping for fun I don't go past like 80 and on my tank I never go past 65.5. I know more about regs then unregs. Thank you so much for all your help though!
Two formulas to know.
Amperage = Voltage/Resistance
and
Watts = Voltage * Amperage.
For safety use 4.2 as your voltage as it's the highest you'll get, but in reality you get lower than that, just safe to assume perfect scenario for safety. In reality you're more likely to be getting 3.7 after battery sag and voltage loss. So for wattage calculations use 3.7 and for "am I using too many amps) use 4.2.
So, to get a 80w pull you'll need 80/3.7=21 amps. To get 21 amps you need 3.7/21= .17Ω You can get that many ways, but that's the resistance you should be aiming for. Grab some LG HB2s(best) or Sony VTC4s(Solid). Safety calculation you're getting 24 amps, reality you're getting closer to 21.
Realistically though, you'll get a solid vape at .2Ω and it's a safe spot, .21Ω means you're safe with 20amps, and that's most quality batteries and leaves you plenty of headroom with higher rated batteries. .21Ω will still get you 65w. So it's not bad at all.
Anyways, thought I'd add that, the steamengine calculator works great, but I find it easier to do the math myself than to work that thing. Great to see someone taking good advice to heart.
Amperage = Voltage/Resistance
and
Watts = Voltage * Amperage.
For safety use 4.2 as your voltage as it's the highest you'll get, but in reality you get lower than that, just safe to assume perfect scenario for safety. In reality you're more likely to be getting 3.7 after battery sag and voltage loss. So for wattage calculations use 3.7 and for "am I using too many amps) use 4.2.
So, to get a 80w pull you'll need 80/3.7=21 amps. To get 21 amps you need 3.7/21= .17Ω You can get that many ways, but that's the resistance you should be aiming for. Grab some LG HB2s(best) or Sony VTC4s(Solid). Safety calculation you're getting 24 amps, reality you're getting closer to 21.
Realistically though, you'll get a solid vape at .2Ω and it's a safe spot, .21Ω means you're safe with 20amps, and that's most quality batteries and leaves you plenty of headroom with higher rated batteries. .21Ω will still get you 65w. So it's not bad at all.
Anyways, thought I'd add that, the steamengine calculator works great, but I find it easier to do the math myself than to work that thing. Great to see someone taking good advice to heart.
This helps so much! Thank you! For batteries I was looking at mxjo's (silver/yellow) 3000 mah
An ok battery but a re-wrap none the less I'd stick with Sony VTC 4 or LG HB2 or HB6 for 30 amps and Samsung 25r as a solid 20 amp with a good pulse rating
I'd get them from here http://liionwholesale.com/
I'd get them from here http://liionwholesale.com/
Thanks for the site! And the advice