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Would you like to participate in PIF 5.0

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Dr3d

Dr3d

Yes. What was the question?
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.Ok ... so ... interesting trip to the store. First, I forgot the TP. I was too entanced by learning that there is an evacuation effort centered on a neighborhood less than 2 miles from my house. Folks are being ferried (boats and high water safe heavy trucks) to the Kroger parking lot where there is emergency medical response, etc.

Who knew? Sometimes not having television really drives home the bubble effect. I knew it stormed last night, but wow ... plenty of damage with that storm. Bet'n delivering my sack of batteries isn't a priority today - no worries there though.
 
anendeloflorien

anendeloflorien

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Geauxst said:
OG subtank or just not paging attention?

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Subtank mini and not paying attention. I had it on it's top with the bottle balanced (so I could get to every last drop), went to grab something on my desk and smacked the bottle so the whole thing rolled off my desk. No damage to the subtank but I've got a nice oil slick down the front of my desk now lol
 
Geauxst

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anendeloflorien said:
Subtank mini and not paying attention. I had it on it's top with the bottle balanced (so I could get to every last drop), went to grab something on my desk and smacked the bottle so the whole thing rolled off my desk. No damage to the subtank but I've got a nice oil slick down the front of my desk now lol
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Lol ouch yeah I had my OG out the other day I haven't used it in a while filled it with 7ml of juice went to look for the base while holding glass with one hand and the chimney slid out the glass and 7ml went everywhere .... And I was like oh yeah now I know I stuck you up on the shelf.... Cleaned everything up put the OG back on the Atty rack and grabbed the Atlantis 2.0 and never looked back at it lol

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anendeloflorien

anendeloflorien

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Geauxst said:
Lol ouch yeah I had my OG out the other day I haven't used it in a while filled it with 7ml of juice went to look for the base while holding glass with one hand and the chimney slid out the glass and 7ml went everywhere .... And I was like oh yeah now I know I stuck you up on the shelf.... Cleaned everything up put the OG back on the Atty rack and grabbed the Atlantis 2.0 and never looked back at it lol

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Click to expand...

GAAAAhhhhh why do they do these things to me when I have no money?


Looks like Kanger fixed the last few minor issues I've had with the ST mini with this new version coming out. The new RBA section looks sick as mammaries!
 
Geauxst

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anendeloflorien said:
GAAAAhhhhh why do they do these things to me when I have no money?


Looks like Kanger fixed the last few minor issues I've had with the ST mini with this new version coming out. The new RBA section looks sick as mammaries!
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Funny looks just like the Atlantis rba head they made a bout a months ago the design that kanger stated was inferior to their god like design .... Hypocrites

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anendeloflorien

anendeloflorien

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Geauxst said:
Funny looks just like the Atlantis rba head they made a bout a months ago the design that kanger stated was inferior to their god like design .... Hypocrites

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eh, potato potato in my book lol. If it's a better design, it's a better design!

I've stuck with my kanger products because I've always been happy with them and I only have to buy one type of coil head ever. Everything else we own is fully rebuildable.
 
Geauxst

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anendeloflorien said:
eh, potato potato in my book lol. If it's a better design, it's a better design!

I've stuck with my kanger products because I've always been happy with them and I only have to buy one type of coil head ever. Everything else we own is fully rebuildable.
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I stick to rebuildable around here its 6.99 per coil almost every coil doesn't matter tank or size a replacement head is 6.99 ever since the sub tanks have come out that's 35$ the price of a new Atty for 5 coils that barely last me a month screw that screw b&m I'll rebuild with my 100ft of kanthal for 6$ and 500ft of rayon for 11$ the way I go through coils say once a month even 17$ last me easily 6mo or more before I spend another 6$ so ever coil I buy is 100ft of wire ....yeahhhh let that sink in

So I'm with you on the whole rebuilding part

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Dr3d

Dr3d

Yes. What was the question?
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Youtube/social media giveaway heads up. Yes, I have it pre-ordered, but ... why not?

Yes, this is in addition to the VU give-away that several of us seem to have found already.

From what I can gather, the coil heads for the tank are designed to be easily rewickable/rebuildable - that's a bonus.
 
anendeloflorien

anendeloflorien

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Geauxst said:
I stick to rebuildable around here its 6.99 per coil almost every coil doesn't matter tank or size a replacement head is 6.99 ever since the sub tanks have come out that's 35$ the price of a new Atty for 5 coils that barely last me a month screw that screw b&m I'll rebuild with my 100ft of kanthal for 6$ and 500ft of rayon for 11$ the way I go through coils say once a month even 17$ last me easily 6mo or more before I spend another 6$ so ever coil I buy is 100ft of wire ....yeahhhh let that sink in

So I'm with you on the whole rebuilding part

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Damn! $6.99 each? My local B&M sells em for $3 each so I don't mind grabbing a fresh one here and there when we go in to grab a bottle of juice. They're $12.99/5 on most online sites these days and I've even seen em cheaper than that.
 
anendeloflorien

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dred said:

Youtube/social media giveaway heads up. Yes, I have it pre-ordered, but ... why not?

From what I can gather, the coil heads for the tank are designed to be easily rewickable/rebuildable - that's a bonus.
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what did I JUST SAY! LOL so many pretty things coming out when I'm on a spending freeze lol

My vaping wish list is getting really long these days. I've got leads on a couple of great jobs out in Denver making twice what I make here so I may be able to start checking some things off before too long. Just gotta get there first.
 
Geauxst

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anendeloflorien said:
Damn! $6.99 each? My local B&M sells em for $3 each so I don't mind grabbing a fresh one here and there when we go in to grab a bottle of juice. They're $12.99/5 on most online sites these days and I've even seen em cheaper than that.
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I'm convinced all the local b&m look online at angelcigs or fast tech and buys items like an Atty for 10$ then sell them in the store for 40$ like the new Atlantis 2.0 is 24.99 online or the kbox is 15.99 they have them in store right now for 65.99 I know you gotta make a profit but buy wholesale and compete with online sales I look on line for a monitor at new egg and its 99$ +shipping most times even free shipping at times but my local best buy has one for 119.99 ....hmmm... You know what I don't want to wait I'll pay 20$ to skip shipping but what these b&m are doing is if its 99$ online then sell it for 399$ in store

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anendeloflorien

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Geauxst said:
I'm convinced all the local b&m look online at angelcigs or fast tech and buys items like an Atty for 10$ then sell them in the store for 40$ like the new Atlantis 2.0 is 24.99 online or the kbox is 15.99 they have them in store right now for 65.99 I know you gotta make a profit but buy wholesale and compete with online sales I look on line for a monitor at new egg and its 99$ +shipping most times even free shipping at times but my local best buy has one for 119.99 ....hmmm... You know what I don't want to wait I'll pay 20$ to skip shipping but what these b&m are doing is if its 99$ online then sell it for 399$ in store

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Click to expand...

See, we totally lucked out with our favorite B&M. They do upcharge some for their gear, maybe 15-20% over what things go for online for the most part and I get a 15% military discount so I prefer to buy from them. Their business model is sell the equipment lower than any of the other stores around and keep people coming in to them for their juice (which is fantastic) and even their juice prices are not outrageous. It's $15 for a 30ml or $27 for a 120ml
 
Geauxst

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anendeloflorien said:
See, we totally lucked out with our favorite B&M. They do upcharge some for their gear, maybe 15-20% over what things go for online for the most part and I get a 15% military discount so I prefer to buy from them. Their business model is sell the equipment lower than any of the other stores around and keep people coming in to them for their juice (which is fantastic) and even their juice prices are not outrageous. It's $15 for a 30ml or $27 for a 120ml
Click to expand...
Our juice is 15.99 -10, 19.99-30, 49.99-100 our cheapest bottle of juice you can get is Royal eliquid for 9.99 it claims its 15ml on the bottle but its 10ml in a syringe

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D

Donald Bickers

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Vape Mail for today,,,free sample of 100mg 100%pg nicotine,and a free sample of 3mg 100%vg nicotine from Nude Nicotine ,,,,and I got boxes delivered from the post office for shipping
TAjoA3E.jpg
 
Heather

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Can someone give me a breakdown of why I should use temp control? I got a device that has the DNA 40 in it. Should I buy the special coils for a Kanger sub tank?
 
Dr3d

Dr3d

Yes. What was the question?
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Heather said:
Can someone give me a breakdown of why I should use temp control? I got a device that has the DNA 40 in it. Should I buy the special coils for a Kanger sub tank?
Click to expand...

Ok ... your question makes me laugh. I laugh 'cause I've been reading up on Temperature Limited vaping for several months and I can't even start to give a complete answer.

So, here goes an incomplete response. I ordered my first Temperature Limiting setup because: I learned that Ti wire is an option and I was very skeptical about Nickel due to a known metal allergy concern. I do not know if the DNA 40 can use nickel but I do know that my body attacks any metal with a nickel content thanks to fun with body jewelry.

I'm hoping not to accidentally destroy as much cotton trying to vape it dry. I killed 5 Kanger Subtank coils this weekend vaping my Subtank Mini in my Continental Black Oak Clone. It seems I'm incapable of checking frequently enough since the tank is partially obscured by the design of the mod. Temperature limiting should fix this and provide me an air flavored draw in place of the crispy-cotton-choke-on-this flavor. The health draw is an improved ability to avoid the carcinogens introduced by inhaling burned cotton. By limiting the temperature to a number lower than the ignition temperature for cotton ... burned cotton should not happen.

Coiling Ni200 is supposed to be a little peculiar as compared to Kanthal, but not prohibitively difficult.
 
Last edited:
Heather

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dred said:
Ok ... your question makes me laugh. I laugh 'cause I've been reading up on Temperature Limited vaping for several months and I can't even start to give a complete answer.

So, here goes an incomplete response. I ordered my first Temperature Limiting setup because: I learned that Ti wire is an option and I was very skeptical about Nickel due to a known metal allergy concern. I'm hoping not to accidentally destroy as much cotton trying to vape it dry. I killed 5 Kanger Subtank coils this weekend vaping my Subtank Mini in my Continental Black Oak Clone. It seems I'm incapable of checking frequently enough since the tank is partially obscured by the design of the mod. Temperature limiting should fix this and provide me an air flavored draw instead. The health draw is an improved ability to avoid the carcinogens introduced by inhaling burned cotton. By limiting the temperature to a number lower than the ignition temperature for cotton ... burned cotton should not happen.

Coiling Ni200 is supposed to be a little peculiar as compared to Kanthal, but not prohibitively difficult.
Click to expand...
I have been reading up on it too, and still didn't understand this. Thank you for the synopsis, my cliff notes for temp control. How would you know when to change the coil? In theory they should last a long time, right?
 
Dr3d

Dr3d

Yes. What was the question?
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Heather said:
I have been reading up on it too, and still didn't understand this. Thank you for the synopsis, my cliff notes for temp control. How would you know when to change the coil? In theory they should last a long time, right?
Click to expand...

Nickel is supposed to degrade a little more quickly than Kanthal. But, my number one reason for fiddling with coils is to replace wicking. I rarely fiddle with a coil due to wire issues. That said, I'll be building my third coil for my Egrip RBA Base when I get around to bringing it back into service - on that mod I knew the coil was kaput 'cause it broke and stopped completing the electric circuit. I don't know how one will determine that the nickel has degraded, but I'm guessing it's simply degraded performance.
 
Dr3d

Dr3d

Yes. What was the question?
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dodyhearts said:
View attachment 21163
Yea... So.... Hot pocket anyone?


Sent From The BatCave
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That there looks like a very dry wick. Good new is that the coils are likely just fine. Remove the cotton. Burn it empty, rinse and burn it empty again ... you'll be good for a second round of wicking material.

FWIW, I'll bet you can get a more even wick if you swap holes on the positive post. That is, use the positive and negative holes with the most available separation on each side.
 
Geauxst

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dred said:
That there looks like a very dry wick. Good new is that the coils are likely just fine. Remove the cotton. Burn it empty, rinse and burn it empty again ... you'll be good for a second round of wicking material.

FWIW, I'll bet you can get a more even wick if you swap holes on the positive post. That is, use the positive and negative holes with the most available separation on each side.
Click to expand...
Which goes back to me teaching him about centering coils and better wicking, I failed as a teacher in round 1

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-=Rob=-

-=Rob=-

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For those of you that like coffee vapes, I mixed up some of HIC's caramel cappuccino from the DIY section. Damn good stuff, should get better with age if it lasts long enough. I only made 10ml, next round will be at least 30. Loving it in my Lemo.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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