B box got a g on the bench. Just no time to mess with right now. I also have an Okr I'm putting in an A. Haha. That's taking some patienceView attachment 19222View attachment 19223
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Haha Yes it is..@Dutzy is that granny smith green powder coat? By tony? lol I've got the same one..
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Thanks @Wabah58 , can't wait to see how the PWM comes out. I checked out some myself but I'm saving my pennies for a batch of SX chips, the 2-day battery life sold me and the DNA's are going too mainstream. The SX350's look real simple to wire up. Next project for me is going to be the SX350 w/ on board charging. I got one of the white boards we were talking about the other day.
Well I joined vapingunderground just so I could say this
THANK YOU TO EACH AND EVERY PERSON WHO HAS CONTRIBUTED TO THIS THREAD.
I just ordered all the parts to make my first box. And the only question I have is I like color on my box but don't want a wrap. So what holds up good that I can do myself.
Once I start my build I will post pics often and any pointers are appreciated
So first thing I'm glad of. Bought both 18650 and 26650 sleds. Didn't think the 26650 would take up all the room in a b box. Not sure my first box should be trying to put all wires in the top section. Lol
I have a question. What is the best way to cut the corner of the battery sled to make it fit around that screw post? I don't have a dermal or I think my question would be answered. I'm in the process of starting my first build. All parts on their way to me! Thanks for all your help.
Thank you! I have a hand file.Hand file, or grinding wheel.
How about wiring the switch to apply power to the PWM, remove the PWM power switch (but leave the PWM bypass switch). That should still work for vaping and the PWM will automatically power down when not in use.
Finished up my work beater box. PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) build. I have to say PWM is pretty intense! Power is amazing.
I think I can clean up the next PWM build now that I have the 1st one under my belt and learned a few things. Have 1 more pot and board so I guess the G plus box will be next.
I used this board here https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/DVDAWZ6eNice work man! I have a quick question. Where did you get your pwm board from? I am in no way ready for that type of build yet but would like to give it a whirl in the future after tons more of research! I would like to have the site bookmarked when the time is right! Thanks.
Thank you again sir for the great info! This is turning into such a fun hobby!I used this board here https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/DVDAWZ6e
Parts for that board are DIP8 Socket (optional) 555 Timer .01uf 50V capacitor 0805 .1 uf 50V capacitor 0805 1K resistor 0805 1N914 or 1N4148 diode (x2) (soldered to pot) 10K ohm potentiometer.
This guy has some real nice stuff too. https://oshpark.com/profiles/david4500/page/1
There are a few other guys now offering complete boards populated with switches and pots already installed that are real easy to drop in. They look pretty nice but have to pay a little more. Here is one already complete that drops in the side of a g box
https://squareup.com/market/themodfatherinc
This is the first photo that shows going from switch to battery and then to 510. Most show it connecting between battery and 510. Is this right. Cause I had been thinking it would be easier to run this way and just wanted to make sure it was safeMade this a few weeks back for a FB group. It's not like there's already 100 of the same diagrams out there already, just wanted to make my own to print out and keep at a few shops I deal with.. here's to the new jacks on board. Keep the thread going guys! I'll be waiting for some pics
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This is the first photo that shows going from switch to battery and then to 510. Most show it connecting between battery and 510. Is this right. Cause I had been thinking it would be easier to run this way and just wanted to make sure it was safe
It's exactly how I've been wiring my boxes since day one. As far as being "safe", I believe that a unregulated box mod is only as safe as the person operating it.
Let's look at the load coming off the battery to 510. That's a source, so no matter where you splice the switch wire from, it's still carrying a load throughout the entire "red" zone. The electrons are populating any positive lead at all times. They are just sitting there, they are not active and have no place to go, but they are still there. When you complete the circuit by means of a momentary switch and give the electrons a place to go it creates the current. This is basic electronics and it's probably a good thing to have prior knowledge of when building an unregulated high amp device of any sort. I'd suggest looking up some info on electrons and how they work and how they create a current before going any further. Hope that helps. Keep us updated with the progress.
From the netherlands ...
And most of time active on facebook
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hi there, i am new on this forum.. so heres my entry for the modders
some box pictures of mine hope you like it View attachment 20841View attachment 20842View attachment 20843View attachment 20844View attachment 20845
Forgot to tell. Cnc hammond 1590g. Serieel. Mosfet switch. Mitec button Positiv straight on the keystone tab. And alao the source of the mosfet on the negatif. So no thick wires.
That's really cool! Good work man! These ideas have never occurred to me thank goodness for other creative folks!Hey guys, thought I would see if anybody has some builds going on.
I have some pics of a Dimitri clone that I converted to a bottom feeder. It has nothing to do with mosfets, but hey just keeping the thread alive
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