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Billet Box Appreciation Thread
- Thread starter forza
- Start date
are you talking the mod itself or the doors ? show me your panels
Stupid spell check, sorry. Sometimes I remember to fix it, sometimes notHad to read this and the following posts before realizing the above mentioned burros were meant to be boros. I thought we were taking the thread to places heretofore not mentioned
Need coffee IV, STAT...
So I have 3 magnets that came out. I was thinking about putting super glue in the door holes and putting the panel back on the BB. What do u guys think?
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put a tiny drop in the hole, then press the magnet back in as far as they were before. then let it dry a while. if you put the door right back on the mod, you may end up gluing the door on = not a god thing.
oh MAKE SURE you have the magnet oriented correctly ! ask me how i know, even though i "knew" , and i know you know. ya know . lol
what i ended up doing = put the magnet on the mod, then pull it off with pliers/whatever, then mark the mod side with a marker.
Well hopefully superglue didn’t crack that plastic, but I know for sure it caused the corners to haze and spider
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The panels. They're the same panels that come with every SXK BB.
Well, I marked every magnet while they were still on the billet box. Put them in the doors the correct way and two of them are backwards somehow!
I've come to the conclusion that all 4 magnets on the billet box do not face the same way.
Panels are junk now.
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I've come to the conclusion that all 4 magnets on the billet box do not face the same way.
Panels are junk now.
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That sucks. Sorry to hear that
Doh
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Why would BBV not put the magnets all in the same way?
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WTF
I have no clue. Can't think of any reason not to.
I am not trying to come off like a know it all here in any way, but I know if I can get this rba setup not to spit or leak, then you can too, Honestly my friend, this one hasn't given me any trouble with wicking. I'm just being honest.
EDIT: The Exocet was another story. The Insider too.
It spits in the MTL set up. DL is fine. I just don't feel like messing with it.
Rewicked a vapeshell instead
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So I'm definitely a fan of longer wicks with the Xeta... boro is bone dry. In fact, EVERYTHING is bone dry, save for the condensation in the 510 nut!
Sent from the Death Star
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By spitting you mean your coil is popping juice into your mouth or you just keep getting juice in your mouth from the straw-like MTL draw?
I have an issue with condensation collecting in the 510 and then coming up through the drip tip. Gross. That's more of a BB problem than a Xeta problem.
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bro, those are not aluminum. they are some kind of layered fiber weave (i don't think CF, but could be worng. it doesn't look like the standard CF weave) with resin.
there is nothing to strip.
what is it you want to do with them ? if its polishing = your SOL.
I have no over inflated illusions of my own expertise and I fully realize that you have vastly more experience with these things than I do.
In that light, I honestly don't understand why it's giving you so much trouble. Last I heard you were running the smaller two hole insert under the build and the 3mm chimney reducer, same as me.
From the first time I set it up I had no spitting or leaking and I've re-wicked it twice since. Ironically, I did have some trouble with the DTL setup at first on the other one
I don't know. It's not uncommon to have to get know the "personality" of a new atomizer before getting it nailed. Maybe we just lucked out in different directions.
the Para that i made the staab for. the rounded panel. i used magnets.
i had to remove a few of them cause i got em backwards
i knew better, and did it anyway. those tiny little magnets are a Mutha.
letss see a pic of the paanel.
btw. what is the correct term for the BB = doors or panels ?
Yes, I wanted to polish them.
Hmmm. I just looked them over more closely and maybe you're right. I just assumed they were aluminum.
Stock BB panels are made of G10. It's a high pressure Fibre-glass laminate or composite. You see it a lot for knife scales or pistol grips.
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i not only take back my polishing comment, i am going to try to polish them. but i commented on the premise you thought they were aluminum.
but yeah, i could tell they were a fiber resin just from online pics. when i got em, i felt they are super light.
hey, i have an idea, let me go look for ya. brb.
Well
Isn't that nice. Shows ya what I know LOL!
search this on ebay.
12" x 60" - Cool Car Wrap Flat Glossy Mirror Chrome Vinyl Sticker Film Silver HD
I adjust calling them door or panels depending on who I am chatting with. But then again, I call em Burrosthe Para that i made the staab for. the rounded panel. i used magnets.
i had to remove a few of them cause i got em backwards
i knew better, and did it anyway. those tiny little magnets are a Mutha.
letss see a pic of the paanel.
btw. what is the correct term for the BB = doors or panels ?
We could call em burritos. We kinda wrap up an rba in there lol
i'm with ya there. though i may end up gaining weight.
hey, does anyone know where i can get some inexpensive glass for my Burrito ?
yeah, yeah, i can see that.
Rub some olive oil in the G10 panel. Buff off excess with a soft cloth.
They'll look right as rain.
Well damn, positive post is cracked on 2nd Xeta as well. I was able to get a new build to hold in there, but probably not many more if any. I will say this, there is no doubt I way overtightened. I really paid attention this time to when it started to grab the lead, and yeah, I'm gonna say last time I easily went 3-4 turns past that 
Ah well, live n learn.
Ah well, live n learn.
Well damn, positive post is cracked on 2nd Xeta as well. I was able to get a new build to hold in there, but probably not many more if any. I will say this, there is no doubt I way overtightened. I really paid attention this time to when it started to grab the lead, and yeah, I'm gonna say last time I easily went 3-4 turns past that
The only issue I have is installing it in the Boro tank. I've got some softer red o-rings en route to take care of that (hopefully).
Building and wicking are ridiculously easy. There's really no need to crank on those screws... I screw them down until I feel resistance, wiggle the excess lead to see if the coil moves and if it does: quarter turn. Repeat until your coils doesn't move when you wiggle the lead. Done.
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i was just thinking. when i build mine, i will not use a driver. i will use just the bit. and maybe with greasy fingers.
I'd just hate for you to miss out on (what I think is) the best vape you can get from a BB/boro device!
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na man, i'm going to try it. i was just joking with the for sale comment. but i'm not joking about using just a bit
Agreed. This is why I'm stressing that I overtightened. So others won't, and if none of you all did, it's clear that it's totally doable. Also the reason I have a 3rd one on the way, because I'm vaping the cracked one, and it really is fantastic. I'm pretty sure all around I would say I like it better than the vapeshell, and that is saying a ton for me.
Not that I think you're offended, but I wasn't taking a dig at you at all. Plenty of other folks have had this issue with the authentic too.
Just out of curiosity, what are the specs on the coil you're trying to install? I mostly use small gauge stuff 28/36 single core clapton is the biggest Ive used in mine so far.
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No offense taken, and never took as a dig at all. I'm "diggin" myself, lol. Just pain ole 26g kanthol in both. I have 28g in it now, and I am always good with that as well, so might just stick to that.
I was extra conscientious with my second after the experiences of our friend here
As far as getting them in the boro? I don't know what they were thinking with that. The seating surface (base) needs to be like a quarter mil smaller. I was thinking of dremeling a little bevel on the bottom leading edge to get the base started in the o-ring. I always get mine in, but THAT is a thing for sure.
