Those are matte finished. Very cool. The ones I got were mirrored.Get 'em while they're hot, friends...
Sent from the Death Star
This is killin me. I wish I knew what to tell you about this.I can clean everything, put it back together and it still spits. Before it has time to create a puddle somewhere.
The 1.4mm.This is killin me. I wish I knew what to tell you about this.
I can't remember. Which deck insert are you using?
I don't understand. You have the same configuration I do as far as the deck and chimney go.The 1.4mm.
I think i give up on mtl with the xeta. If i use them, it'll be for DL
Is the wick filling in the juice ports? Maybe restricting the juice ports will help? You do that by unscrewing the little screwsI don't understand. You have the same configuration I do as far as the deck and chimney go.
Maybe it's the coil? If it's not spaced maybe try spacing it or something? Or power isn't enough for the coil and it isn't vaporizing the liquid?
I don't mean that how it might sound. I really don't understand. I see maybe a little condensation around where the dt meets the chimney when I take it part, but no spitting or leaking at all.
At some point the aggravation isn't worth the return. Maybe a revisit at some later date. Or maybe not. I really wanted you to love this thing.
Yeah idk. I just rewicked a vapeshell and it's rockin.I don't understand. You have the same configuration I do as far as the deck and chimney go.
Maybe it's the coil? If it's not spaced maybe try spacing it or something? Or power isn't enough for the coil and it isn't vaporizing the liquid?
I don't mean that how it might sound. I really don't understand. I see maybe a little condensation around where the dt meets the chimney when I take it part, but no spitting or leaking at all.
At some point the aggravation isn't worth the return. Maybe a revisit at some later date. Or maybe not. I really wanted you to love this thing.
There's at least some kinda clue there. How snug is the top of the chimney in the o-ring in the top of the boro? It looks like it's escaping through there. But then the seal in the nut should stop that from getting into the drip tip. There's also some juice in the chimney on top of the insert too though which WOULD cause spitting.Yeah idk. I just rewicked a vapeshell and it's rockin.
When I pulled the xeta out, the BB was dry but I did find this.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Looks to be the o-ring around the chimney. You're pulling harder against the smaller airflow with MTL so it further unseats the o-ring, widening the gap OR it creates a gap in the seal with pressure from the 510 nut.Yeah idk. I just rewicked a vapeshell and it's rockin.
When I pulled the xeta out, the BB was dry but I did find this.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Funny, I've been toying with the idea of getting a 21700 mech and getting something like Mterks RDA, the Dang RDA by Ohmboy OC and Twisted Messes, or Coilturd's An RDA For Vaping.Lol mterk is live on IG, I truly think he knows about his RDA having some serious voltage loss
I mentioned it and all he said was, “I think it hits hard”
I did voltage tests and it hits like a wet noodle on mechs
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Funny, I've been toying with the idea of getting a 21700 mech and getting something like Mterks RDA, the Dang RDA by Ohmboy OC and Twisted Messes, or Coilturd's An RDA For Vaping.
Not sure why I'm having this itch after being so happy with MTL vaping. I should probably stop selling all my shit to buy new shit.
Sent from the Death Star
Honestly I never build under 0.2 even at my clouds bro cloudiest. I could probably stick with 18650s for where I would have it. Voltage drop probably wouldn't be much of an issue at a 0.3 and up...If you do... don't bother with a Terk, its junk in my opinion. All the RDAs I recently purchased, the C2MNT is by far the winner. I bought the Occula RDA, thinking the clamps would be a winner, which they were, but it suffered from major voltage loss compared to my nearly 3 year old Goon V1... same with the Terk... I am convinced anything Twisted Messes related just has inherent voltage loss.
I just need an authentic Goon wide bore 810 drip tip, from the V1... and I'll be able to run 2 RDAs on my mechs.
I might pick up another mech... but I really don't need one... the Overlord hits plenty hard even at .12Ω (3.79v) and .14Ω is 3.84v... and going by Mooch's graphs of the 30T @30amps the .14Ω is 3.84v vs his test of 3.875v a .035v difference is moot and can be user press difference
View attachment 150517
22 or 24?3 year old Goon V1
22 or 24?
If I may be so froward, check that Vaperz Cloud XXX Gadget has for sale for like 50 bucks. 20700 or 18560. That's a performer right there. With that switch especially.Honestly I never build under 0.2 even at my clouds bro cloudiest. I could probably stick with 18650s for where I would have it. Voltage drop probably wouldn't be much of an issue at a 0.3 and up...
I should probably just stick with my OG CSMNT clone (or see if I can get one second hand) , get a Kennedy Vindicator, and use an 18650 adapter.
Sent from the Death Star
I have plenty of 22mm mechs! That's not a bad idea.I would rock a 22mm Goon V1 on a 18650 mech for sure
That's a gorgeous mod for sure, but copper ain't my thing. Most of my stuff is stainless bc it's low maintenance.If I may be so froward, check that Vaperz Cloud XXX Gadget has for sale for like 50 bucks. 20700 or 18560. That's a performer right there. With that switch especially.
That really is a great classic RDA.
View attachment 150518
I had all the cloud stuff still... just never owned a 21700... only reason I bought the Overlord... glad I did... truly been my primary vape the past month+ owning it, with the Dvarw DL-Dani Mini as secondary... and Pasito or Dvarw MTL+ Pico 75 for out and about high nicThat's a gorgeous mod for sure, but copper ain't my thing. Most of my stuff is stainless bc it's low maintenance.
Come to think of it, I have a Hobo Drifter I could put some decent size coils in and rock on my VA Phenom or Satburn in 18650 mode. I believe I can scratch my itch with gear I already have! Imagine that!
Sent from the Death Star
I do love that Overlord. Don't have one, but maybe some day.
Goddammit. Now I want a CSMNT V2 in black with a matte black 24mm mech. Feck.
Goddammit. Now I want a CSMNT V2 in black with a matte black 24mm mech. Feck.
Sent from the Death Star
Could be just me, but the hole in the top of that Ultem boro looks a hair bigger than usual.Looks to be the o-ring around the chimney. You're pulling harder against the smaller airflow with MTL so it further unseats the o-ring, widening the gap OR it creates a gap in the seal with pressure from the 510 nut.
Either way I'd swap out that o-ring. Hope that solves it!
You bitch.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You bitch.
I'm willing to bet I could get a decent combo for under $100. I was looking at the Mechlyfe Arcless for a bit. Maybe even a Dreamer.
Sent from the Death Star
Saw that. $45 right?CSMNTS are on sale too for the next few days
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Saw that. $45 right?
Sent from the Death Star
I might be (FINALLY) selling my Visionary Mods Ballet tomorrow. Would be cool to get a CSMNT V2 and a Dreamer both in matte black.That’s the retail...thought they were having a percentage off sale.
I got mine for $32 shipped when they had their last sale.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I thought he was already doing this. It came up a couple pages ago. If not, then yes, that's what they're for and it's easy to forget.Is the wick filling in the juice ports? Maybe restricting the juice ports will help? You do that by unscrewing the little screws
I gave her my sxk, which came in trade, and that is the bridge that also came in trade, so not sure.Is that the Kanger bridge that comes with the SXK? Or is it one she already had?
The Kanger bridge made by Kanger is a hair shorter and has this exact problem is why I'm asking. The one that comes with the SXK BB doesn't. A guy on POTV had to put a bead of solder on his og Kanger to get it to work.I gave her my sxk, which came in trade, and that is the bridge that also came in trade, so not sure.
So maybe hers being just short would work with my protruding bridge, and visa versa?The Kanger bridge made by Kanger is a hair shorter and has this exact problem is why I'm asking. The one that comes with the SXK BB doesn't. A guy on POTV had to put a bead of solder on his og Kanger to get it to work.
I'm not sure what you mean. I'm also not totally sure I know what I'm talking about Past my bedtime again.So maybe hers being just short would work with my protruding bridge, and visa versa?
Well, I doubt sodering is an option. Ffs, I told her to buy a vapeshell or Xeta clone for $20 bucks already Seems lik way too much work for a so so vape, imho. Thanks, Idk where it will go from here, I know she is on a budget and I am just trying my best to helpMaybe THIS was the thread and maybe I have it wrong.
My first guess is that top piece is for prebuilt Kanger coils. I think the RBA one is shorter?Ok, need some help. Trying to help a friend that INSISTS on using tge Kanger rba (smh), and she says she is not getting a connection on the bottom. I am teying to mock it for her, and running into problems the other way. I can't get the bridge down enough to fit into the BB? Any ideas on either account? Pretty sure we are using the right bridge, not much else you could do?
View attachment 150523
The bridge does not want to seat into the rba, but even pushing it down while trying to insert, it's not even close.
She's got two issues:I gave her my sxk, which came in trade, and that is the bridge that also came in trade, so not sure.