Evcigarettes has the 21700 vindicator in SS with constant contact for $119 shipped... from Kennedy that would be $159
I know no help
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Billet Box Appreciation Thread
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Evcigarettes has the 21700 vindicator in SS with constant contact for $119 shipped... from Kennedy that would be $159
I know no help
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Arcing isn't so much a worry for me. I was just wondering if it made for a more consistent hit.
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Can’t say if it does... but let’s say compared to the Satmod, yeah it could prove that it does since I know when I had mine, it constantly wanted to come unscrewed from how I grip the mod...plus I have a habit of spinning the button from days past...
Happened with the Satmod a few times, fucking button fall out due to that habit
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Oh I didn't realize you got rid of your Sat. More like I probably forgot. My head is goddam sieve once we hit the holidays haha!Can’t say if it does... but let’s say compared to the Satmod, yeah it could prove that it does since I know when I had mine, it constantly wanted to come unscrewed from how I grip the mod...plus I have a habit of spinning the button from days past...
Happened with the Satmod a few times, fucking button fall out due to that habit
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Sold the 350 long ago, then the sat mini soon after, and recently the Satmod v1 500 to Gypsy plus a Dvarw and the Gus
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I legit remember you saying you keep your mechs forever haha! Maybe not so sieve-like after all!Sold the 350 long ago, then the sat mini soon after, and recently the Satmod v1 500 to Gypsy plus a Dvarw and the Gus
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As much as I enjoyed them, battery life was horrible and the primary reason I got rid of them.
Plus that damn button fell out on the 350 a few times and switch housing always wanted to unscrew from the battery.
The V1 didn’t have that issue and imo is way better.
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Plus that damn button fell out on the 350 a few times and switch housing always wanted to unscrew from the battery.
The V1 didn’t have that issue and imo is way better.
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I legit remember you saying you keep your mechs forever haha! Maybe not so sieve-like after all!
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Keep mechs that don’t suck forever
Or one that don’t have little quirk annoyances
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I like the CCS in my XXX, but I do get some very minor marks on the silver contacts in the switch. They just about wipe off.
Same here. I have to look for it.
I know we're just getting rolling, but this year doesn't seem to be as good as last year. At least so far. There's stuff I'd like to have, but not at those giveaway prices I can pay. Last year was ridiculous.
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If somebody produces some compelling science showing that a good constant contact switch outperforms a regular one by alot, then I'll believe it. I've thought about this a bit. I suppose a really well designed and manufactured CCS would have an edge over lesser regular switches. But then again, regular switches vary in quality too. There's some REALLY good ones.
I dunno. I guess if the cost difference wasn't that much I'd pay it, but I'm not ready to pay 40% of the cost of the mod for a CCS upgrade. I can't get myself to believe that the difference, if there was one, would be worth it.
There we have it, folks!
Wait, did I just get in-enabled?! That's a first for this thread! Haha! Thanks G!
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I don't know if I'd make my casual musings the last word
but I am honored by your confidence sir.
I can agree with gsmit1 on switches... a well designed regular switch will perform great, as would a well designed constant contact switch.
The only benefit a constant contact has, is the reduction in possible arcing on your battery; which for most, isn't an issue if the user isn't pushing high amps, this doesn't mean if I only push 15a on a 25a battery that it wont arc, it really falls on the design of said switch.
For example.
My old AV Able... great mech for its time, still a decent mech today... horrible contact and tiny in comparison to today's standardized larger beefy contacts... then it had a raised nub on the oval which was mainly to hit the center of the battery... but reduced the actual contact surface to 4mm. I ran .10Ω builds on 25r batteries and on 5As when they came out... it would arc like a mad man... every time I swap the battery... there were new arc marks on the contact and on the bottom of the battery.
Overlord... huge chunk of silver, 16mm diameter contact point I run .10Ω-.13Ω on 30Ts, no arcing, not even on the underside of the switch.
Able just has a shit switch compared to today's designs and it wasn't the most stable, never the same exact contact to the battery.
Now we can go to lets say the Vindicator, for SaGs... The original switch is beefy, the constant contact switch is also beefy... this is where you don't see huge improvements in my opinion... only thing here is you gain the reduction of possible arcing. Performance I would almost bet was slightly better on the most substantial regular switch (More metal mass) ... I can't say for sure, since I don't own either... but just from my experience with electricity (Non vape related) larger wire is more conductive than thinner (I know horrible analogy, but I believe it be true to these simple circuits)
Now this is my opinion in the end.
If the mech has the option of a constant contact switch, there really isn't a down side to having it, if said switch is designed well.
I would for science test this, with a Vindicator 21700 with both switches to see if there is a performance gain... .12Ω coils, in an RDA... and just swap switches and do a voltage read... but I can almost guarantee it will probably be the smallest of performance difference. Like a 2-7w difference at best
The only benefit a constant contact has, is the reduction in possible arcing on your battery; which for most, isn't an issue if the user isn't pushing high amps, this doesn't mean if I only push 15a on a 25a battery that it wont arc, it really falls on the design of said switch.
For example.
My old AV Able... great mech for its time, still a decent mech today... horrible contact and tiny in comparison to today's standardized larger beefy contacts... then it had a raised nub on the oval which was mainly to hit the center of the battery... but reduced the actual contact surface to 4mm. I ran .10Ω builds on 25r batteries and on 5As when they came out... it would arc like a mad man... every time I swap the battery... there were new arc marks on the contact and on the bottom of the battery.
Overlord... huge chunk of silver, 16mm diameter contact point I run .10Ω-.13Ω on 30Ts, no arcing, not even on the underside of the switch.
Able just has a shit switch compared to today's designs and it wasn't the most stable, never the same exact contact to the battery.
Now we can go to lets say the Vindicator, for SaGs... The original switch is beefy, the constant contact switch is also beefy... this is where you don't see huge improvements in my opinion... only thing here is you gain the reduction of possible arcing. Performance I would almost bet was slightly better on the most substantial regular switch (More metal mass) ... I can't say for sure, since I don't own either... but just from my experience with electricity (Non vape related) larger wire is more conductive than thinner (I know horrible analogy, but I believe it be true to these simple circuits)
Now this is my opinion in the end.
If the mech has the option of a constant contact switch, there really isn't a down side to having it, if said switch is designed well.
I would for science test this, with a Vindicator 21700 with both switches to see if there is a performance gain... .12Ω coils, in an RDA... and just swap switches and do a voltage read... but I can almost guarantee it will probably be the smallest of performance difference. Like a 2-7w difference at best
On one hand, all other things being equal, a CCS introduces an additional mating surface instead of a solid path for the current to flow through and in theory might even reduce performance by bit. I'm not against constant contact switches, but I've never been able to get myself to really buy the proposed advantages. Not on the performance score and I've just never really had an appreciable problem with arcing either.
That would be the perfect apples and apples test. At least for those 2 switches, though you could extrapolate the findings into others too.I think the best test rig to see would be a Ruby 21700... just swap the switches
Yeah I think we are both on similar path of thought... to me the more pieces to a circuit the greater the loss... that is just basic conductivity understanding...
Being the sample size of my experience with a CCS (Overlord only) it does exactly as intended... reduces said arcing possibility to zero.
Additionally I can add that it hits harder than the Vindicator (even though I don't own one) and I base this by a reviewer who does mech voltage drop tests on a crude built rig lol... yeah I know... ultra scientific
and he got 3.71v with .12Ω where I got 3.79v with .12Ω coils using a DMM at the terminalsAmbitionz vaper on TY does VD tests and the Overlord was like a .47VD where as the Vindy was .52... I know again .05v a whopping 3w max
Now as originally asked by Jim, if its worth the extra $20... I look at it as a way to eliminate or just about eliminate arc marks and or pitting... is there a performance advantage... probably not. But specifically to his consistency question... it could be advantageous, just not likely since he doesn't push the voltage where arcing and pitting would cause over time an uneven surface for a standard switch.
But yeah... if it comes standard (Overlord- Ruby-Arcless etc) roll with it, no choice
But if its an add-on for $X.xx probably wont be advantageous, but it could be lol 
I think the lower prices are only today. I may be wrong, it's been known to happen.
Yeah only today...
Just the price of 2oz was normally 5.75 not 7.xx it’s all good I ordered more nic and 2oz flavors that I use a lot
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@R3alJim Shady not sure if this interests you
https://www.kidneypuncher.com/cosmonaut-csmnt-v2-rda-clone/
KP also has a sale one wire and what not... I'm probably going to add a few spools to the list of crap I ordered the past few days
https://www.kidneypuncher.com/cosmonaut-csmnt-v2-rda-clone/
KP also has a sale one wire and what not... I'm probably going to add a few spools to the list of crap I ordered the past few days
I worked out a trade for a Bonza with @dubya314 so I'm all set. I also bought a DANG too bc it was 50% off
Good looking out though!
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Lightning has an awesome sale right now too. I picked up some odd ga. sizes.
I agree.Yeah I think we are both on similar path of thought... to me the more pieces to a circuit the greater the loss... that is just basic conductivity understanding...
Being the sample size of my experience with a CCS (Overlord only) it does exactly as intended... reduces said arcing possibility to zero.
Additionally I can add that it hits harder than the Vindicator (even though I don't own one) and I base this by a reviewer who does mech voltage drop tests on a crude built rig lol... yeah I know... ultra scientific
Ambitionz vaper on TY does VD tests and the Overlord was like a .47VD where as the Vindy was .52... I know again .05v a whopping 3w max
Now as originally asked by Jim, if its worth the extra $20... I look at it as a way to eliminate or just about eliminate arc marks and or pitting... is there a performance advantage... probably not. But specifically to his consistency question... it could be advantageous, just not likely since he doesn't push the voltage where arcing and pitting would cause over time an uneven surface for a standard switch.
But yeah... if it comes standard (Overlord- Ruby-Arcless etc) roll with it, no choice
I LOVE the Overlord too. I want one. Bad. Have for a long time.
I guess my driving point was that I'm not as excited over constant contact switches per se as some of the companies would like me to be.
Somehow I really fell in love with 27g kanthol. I like and use 26g and 28g, but 27g suits a lot of what I do the best of the three
Well I guess tonight at midnight, I will be buying another CSMNT but this time in black... when they were going for BF @$45 and you get a stupid drip tip (Their crazy value of $15) it wasn't a good deal... well they are dropping the price to $39 and you still get a goodie with it LOL
Or I could order a Goon direct for $15 lol
Wish they still had the original Goon... I might still buy the repair kits for mine
Or I could order a Goon direct for $15 lol
Wish they still had the original Goon... I might still buy the repair kits for mine
The 24 mm OG goons are still reasonably easy to find at a decent price. Unless you're looking for the 22. Actually I've seen a few of those around too.
If I buy the 1.5 only going to use the deck...better clamps over the original, I just hate buying a new version or new rda and it has massive voltage loss.
Probably why even at $15 I won’t buy it lol
And spend more on the C2MNT since I already know how it works...
Just watch the black one be shit in comparison
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I have 2 stainless 1.5s n pristine condition. Wadda ya got to trade
I have 2 stainless 1.5s n pristine condition. Wadda ya got to trade
Thx... if you had one in black I’d be down, the V1 caps fit the 1.5s but would annoy me seeing a silver sliver on my mod
The 1.5s have that never close past half way airflow so the caps are junk to me
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20CV? If so that is basically the same as M390 and way better than 30V all day everyday
The grey/blue thumb hole griptilian is nice. Pretty sure that’s the 20CV one.
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So, would this get the thumbs up? https://knifeworks.com/benchmade-bm...in-blade-micarta-handle-knifeworks-exclusive/
I like their steel...just not a fan of plastic handles and their spring lock...it’s not if it will fail...just when.
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https://www.fasttech.com/product/9717112-sxk-bantam-revision-30w-vv-vw-apv-box-mod-kit
Apparently they've made a few "improvements" to the Bantam Box..
I like the quick release nut (the knurled part would be better if it were black) and the inclusion of a EUC bridge/adapter. I'd like to see if the chip is more accurate though. I have to run my OG a couple watts higher than my Billet.
The included pod/tank/thing is a step backwards IMO.
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Apparently they've made a few "improvements" to the Bantam Box..
I like the quick release nut (the knurled part would be better if it were black) and the inclusion of a EUC bridge/adapter. I'd like to see if the chip is more accurate though. I have to run my OG a couple watts higher than my Billet.
The included pod/tank/thing is a step backwards IMO.
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This one has micarta handles and I'll be getting extra springs, juuust in case.
I started doing the same thing. I'm trying to see if I can get finish the Clone Wars cartoon too, but I think at 7 seasons that's a rather lofty goal!Watching the saga before the 20th!
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It looks like it'll still take standard boros though.
Honestly the ones who break the springs are the finger flicker types, if you open any knife as intended... they will outlast the user.
One thing for them is their blade warranty, almost ironclad. As long as you aren’t using it as a pry bar they will warranty it. But it’s still up to them to deem if it was a failure or user neglect.
It’s why I don’t mind anything S35VN+ I don’t pry, I don’t need to break down a pallet of boxes; and 35 is pretty much a standard.
I feel the same about 3V, I like that steel...
Although as I always say, I wish CRK would go with 20CV...
I’d go as far as having a knife maker make a 20CV blade for my Inkosi, just not sure who to have do this.
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Very nice but I already bought the Griptilian mini with the micarta handles and M390 blade. I figured that should do me fine.
