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Billet Box Appreciation Thread


~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Okay mech heads... constant contact switch worth ilthe extra 20 bucks on the Dreamer? I like the idea of it but I'm not sure if it would be an improvement or if it won't make a difference

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Evcigarettes has the 21700 vindicator in SS with constant contact for $119 shipped... from Kennedy that would be $159

I know no help


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~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I’m playing chauffeur to the wife and her shopping.

She just texted me about buying an iPad

And here when I said I wanted an RDA she asks how many I have already...




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~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I do like the constant contact on my overlord... no adjustment just slap battery in.

But I never had nasty arcing without it...did have arcing, just not pitting type like some


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R3alJim Shady

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I do like the constant contact on my overlord... no adjustment just slap battery in.

But I never had nasty arcing without it...did have arcing, just not pitting type like some


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Arcing isn't so much a worry for me. I was just wondering if it made for a more consistent hit.

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~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Arcing isn't so much a worry for me. I was just wondering if it made for a more consistent hit.

Sent from the Death Star
Can’t say if it does... but let’s say compared to the Satmod, yeah it could prove that it does since I know when I had mine, it constantly wanted to come unscrewed from how I grip the mod...plus I have a habit of spinning the button from days past...

Happened with the Satmod a few times, fucking button fall out due to that habit


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R3alJim Shady

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Can’t say if it does... but let’s say compared to the Satmod, yeah it could prove that it does since I know when I had mine, it constantly wanted to come unscrewed from how I grip the mod...plus I have a habit of spinning the button from days past...

Happened with the Satmod a few times, fucking button fall out due to that habit


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Oh I didn't realize you got rid of your Sat. More like I probably forgot. My head is goddam sieve once we hit the holidays haha!

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~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Oh I didn't realize you got rid of your Sat. More like I probably forgot. My head is goddam sieve once we hit the holidays haha!

Sent from the Death Star
Sold the 350 long ago, then the sat mini soon after, and recently the Satmod v1 500 to Gypsy plus a Dvarw and the Gus


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~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
As much as I enjoyed them, battery life was horrible and the primary reason I got rid of them.

Plus that damn button fell out on the 350 a few times and switch housing always wanted to unscrew from the battery.

The V1 didn’t have that issue and imo is way better.


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gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 2 Years
I do like the constant contact on my overlord...
I like the CCS in my XXX, but I do get some very minor marks on the silver contacts in the switch. They just about wipe off.
But I never had nasty arcing without it...did have arcing, just not pitting type like some
Same here. I have to look for it.
There is absolutely nothing out there for Black Friday I truly want...
I know we're just getting rolling, but this year doesn't seem to be as good as last year. At least so far. There's stuff I'd like to have, but not at those giveaway prices I can pay. Last year was ridiculous.
 
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gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Arcing isn't so much a worry for me. I was just wondering if it made for a more consistent hit.

Sent from the Death Star
If somebody produces some compelling science showing that a good constant contact switch outperforms a regular one by alot, then I'll believe it. I've thought about this a bit. I suppose a really well designed and manufactured CCS would have an edge over lesser regular switches. But then again, regular switches vary in quality too. There's some REALLY good ones.

I dunno. I guess if the cost difference wasn't that much I'd pay it, but I'm not ready to pay 40% of the cost of the mod for a CCS upgrade. I can't get myself to believe that the difference, if there was one, would be worth it.
 

R3alJim Shady

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
If somebody produces some compelling science showing that a good constant contact switch outperforms a regular one by alot, then I'll believe it. I've thought about this a bit. I suppose a really well designed and manufactured CCS would have an edge over lesser regular switches. But then again, regular switches vary in quality too. There's some REALLY good ones.

I dunno. I guess if the cost difference wasn't that much I'd pay it, but I'm not ready to pay 40% of the cost of the mod for a CCS upgrade. I can't get myself to believe that the difference, if there was one, would be worth it.
There we have it, folks!



Wait, did I just get in-enabled?! That's a first for this thread! Haha! Thanks G!

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~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I can agree with gsmit1 on switches... a well designed regular switch will perform great, as would a well designed constant contact switch.

The only benefit a constant contact has, is the reduction in possible arcing on your battery; which for most, isn't an issue if the user isn't pushing high amps, this doesn't mean if I only push 15a on a 25a battery that it wont arc, it really falls on the design of said switch.

For example.

My old AV Able... great mech for its time, still a decent mech today... horrible contact and tiny in comparison to today's standardized larger beefy contacts... then it had a raised nub on the oval which was mainly to hit the center of the battery... but reduced the actual contact surface to 4mm. I ran .10Ω builds on 25r batteries and on 5As when they came out... it would arc like a mad man... every time I swap the battery... there were new arc marks on the contact and on the bottom of the battery.

Overlord... huge chunk of silver, 16mm diameter contact point I run .10Ω-.13Ω on 30Ts, no arcing, not even on the underside of the switch.

Able just has a shit switch compared to today's designs and it wasn't the most stable, never the same exact contact to the battery.


Now we can go to lets say the Vindicator, for SaGs... The original switch is beefy, the constant contact switch is also beefy... this is where you don't see huge improvements in my opinion... only thing here is you gain the reduction of possible arcing. Performance I would almost bet was slightly better on the most substantial regular switch (More metal mass) ... I can't say for sure, since I don't own either... but just from my experience with electricity (Non vape related) larger wire is more conductive than thinner (I know horrible analogy, but I believe it be true to these simple circuits)


Now this is my opinion in the end.

If the mech has the option of a constant contact switch, there really isn't a down side to having it, if said switch is designed well.


I would for science test this, with a Vindicator 21700 with both switches to see if there is a performance gain... .12Ω coils, in an RDA... and just swap switches and do a voltage read... but I can almost guarantee it will probably be the smallest of performance difference. Like a 2-7w difference at best
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 2 Years
I can agree with gsmit1 on switches... a well designed regular switch will perform great, as would a well designed constant contact switch.

The only benefit a constant contact has, is the reduction in possible arcing on your battery; which for most, isn't an issue if the user isn't pushing high amps, this doesn't mean if I only push 15a on a 25a battery that it wont arc, it really falls on the design of said switch.

For example.

My old AV Able... great mech for its time, still a decent mech today... horrible contact and tiny in comparison to today's standardized larger beefy contacts... then it had a raised nub on the oval which was mainly to hit the center of the battery... but reduced the actual contact surface to 4mm. I ran .10Ω builds on 25r batteries and on 5As when they came out... it would arc like a mad man... every time I swap the battery... there were new arc marks on the contact and on the bottom of the battery.

Overlord... huge chunk of silver, 16mm diameter contact point I run .10Ω-.13Ω on 30Ts, no arcing, not even on the underside of the switch.

Able just has a shit switch compared to today's designs and it wasn't the most stable, never the same exact contact to the battery.


Now we can go to lets say the Vindicator, for SaGs... The original switch is beefy, the constant contact switch is also beefy... this is where you don't see huge improvements in my opinion... only thing here is you gain the reduction of possible arcing. Performance I would almost bet was slightly better on the most substantial regular switch (More metal mass) ... I can't say for sure, since I don't own either... but just from my experience with electricity (Non vape related) larger wire is more conductive than thinner (I know horrible analogy, but I believe it be true to these simple circuits)


Now this is my opinion in the end.

If the mech has the option of a constant contact switch, there really isn't a down side to having it, if said switch is designed well.


I would for science test this, with a Vindicator 21700 with both switches to see if there is a performance gain... .12Ω coils, in an RDA... and just swap switches and do a voltage read... but I can almost guarantee it will probably be the smallest of performance difference. Like a 2-7w difference at best
On one hand, all other things being equal, a CCS introduces an additional mating surface instead of a solid path for the current to flow through and in theory might even reduce performance by bit. I'm not against constant contact switches, but I've never been able to get myself to really buy the proposed advantages. Not on the performance score and I've just never really had an appreciable problem with arcing either.

I think the best test rig to see would be a Ruby 21700... just swap the switches ;)
That would be the perfect apples and apples test. At least for those 2 switches, though you could extrapolate the findings into others too.
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 2 Years
The original Vindicator switch is a masterpiece of simplicity and performance. 2 meaty pieces of copper and a spring.
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
On one hand, all other things being equal, a CCS introduces an additional mating surface instead of a solid path for the current to flow through and in theory might even reduce performance by bit. I'm not against constant contact switches, but I've never been able to get myself to really buy the proposed advantages. Not on the performance score and I've just never really had an appreciable problem with arcing either.


That would be the perfect apples and apples test. At least for those 2 switches, though you could extrapolate the findings into others too.
Yeah I think we are both on similar path of thought... to me the more pieces to a circuit the greater the loss... that is just basic conductivity understanding...

Being the sample size of my experience with a CCS (Overlord only) it does exactly as intended... reduces said arcing possibility to zero.

Additionally I can add that it hits harder than the Vindicator (even though I don't own one) and I base this by a reviewer who does mech voltage drop tests on a crude built rig lol... yeah I know... ultra scientific ;) and he got 3.71v with .12Ω where I got 3.79v with .12Ω coils using a DMM at the terminals

Ambitionz vaper on TY does VD tests and the Overlord was like a .47VD where as the Vindy was .52... I know again .05v a whopping 3w max

Now as originally asked by Jim, if its worth the extra $20... I look at it as a way to eliminate or just about eliminate arc marks and or pitting... is there a performance advantage... probably not. But specifically to his consistency question... it could be advantageous, just not likely since he doesn't push the voltage where arcing and pitting would cause over time an uneven surface for a standard switch.


But yeah... if it comes standard (Overlord- Ruby-Arcless etc) roll with it, no choice ;) But if its an add-on for $X.xx probably wont be advantageous, but it could be lol ;)
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
fucking NicRiver trying to pull a fast one lol

upload_2019-11-29_8-43-59.png

$5.25 right...

but when I had my list of flavoring in the cart from last night...

upload_2019-11-29_8-44-54.png

I wanted to make it 2... but I think if I do, I lose the lower price on the one LOL

Bastards!
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I think the lower prices are only today. I may be wrong, it's been known to happen.
Yeah only today...

Just the price of 2oz was normally 5.75 not 7.xx it’s all good I ordered more nic and 2oz flavors that I use a lot


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R3alJim Shady

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Yeah I think we are both on similar path of thought... to me the more pieces to a circuit the greater the loss... that is just basic conductivity understanding...

Being the sample size of my experience with a CCS (Overlord only) it does exactly as intended... reduces said arcing possibility to zero.

Additionally I can add that it hits harder than the Vindicator (even though I don't own one) and I base this by a reviewer who does mech voltage drop tests on a crude built rig lol... yeah I know... ultra scientific ;) and he got 3.71v with .12Ω where I got 3.79v with .12Ω coils using a DMM at the terminals

Ambitionz vaper on TY does VD tests and the Overlord was like a .47VD where as the Vindy was .52... I know again .05v a whopping 3w max

Now as originally asked by Jim, if its worth the extra $20... I look at it as a way to eliminate or just about eliminate arc marks and or pitting... is there a performance advantage... probably not. But specifically to his consistency question... it could be advantageous, just not likely since he doesn't push the voltage where arcing and pitting would cause over time an uneven surface for a standard switch.


But yeah... if it comes standard (Overlord- Ruby-Arcless etc) roll with it, no choice ;) But if its an add-on for $X.xx probably wont be advantageous, but it could be lol ;)
I agree.

I LOVE the Overlord too. I want one. Bad. Have for a long time.

I guess my driving point was that I'm not as excited over constant contact switches per se as some of the companies would like me to be. :cool:
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Well I guess tonight at midnight, I will be buying another CSMNT but this time in black... when they were going for BF @$45 and you get a stupid drip tip (Their crazy value of $15) it wasn't a good deal... well they are dropping the price to $39 and you still get a goodie with it LOL


Or I could order a Goon direct for $15 lol

upload_2019-12-1_14-47-30.png

Wish they still had the original Goon... I might still buy the repair kits for mine
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Well I guess tonight at midnight, I will be buying another CSMNT but this time in black... when they were going for BF @$45 and you get a stupid drip tip (Their crazy value of $15) it wasn't a good deal... well they are dropping the price to $39 and you still get a goodie with it LOL


Or I could order a Goon direct for $15 lol

View attachment 150821

Wish they still had the original Goon... I might still buy the repair kits for mine
The 24 mm OG goons are still reasonably easy to find at a decent price. Unless you're looking for the 22. Actually I've seen a few of those around too.
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
The 24 mm OG goons are still reasonably easy to find at a decent price. Unless you're looking for the 22. Actually I've seen a few of those around too.
If I buy the 1.5 only going to use the deck...better clamps over the original, I just hate buying a new version or new rda and it has massive voltage loss.

Probably why even at $15 I won’t buy it lol

And spend more on the C2MNT since I already know how it works...

Just watch the black one be shit in comparison


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BrewBear

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Question for @~Don~ : if you had your choice of S30V or 20VG , which would you get? I'm stuck on the Mini Griptilian and I already have the 154CM one. BTW, I'm getting used to thumb flick the ChinSebenza and I might yet buy a Sebenza 31. Oh, forgot M390!
 
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gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 2 Years
If I buy the 1.5 only going to use the deck...better clamps over the original, I just hate buying a new version or new rda and it has massive voltage loss.

Probably why even at $15 I won’t buy it lol

And spend more on the C2MNT since I already know how it works...

Just watch the black one be shit in comparison
I have 2 stainless 1.5s n pristine condition. Wadda ya got to trade :rolleyes:
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I have 2 stainless 1.5s n pristine condition. Wadda ya got to trade :rolleyes:
Thx... if you had one in black I’d be down, the V1 caps fit the 1.5s but would annoy me seeing a silver sliver on my mod

The 1.5s have that never close past half way airflow so the caps are junk to me


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~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Question for @~Don~ : if you had your choice of S30V or 20VG , which would you get? I'm stuck on the Mini Griptilian and I already have the 154CM one. BTW, I'm getting used to thumb flick the ChinSebenza and I might yet buy a Sebenza 31. Oh, forgot M390!
20CV? If so that is basically the same as M390 and way better than 30V all day everyday

The grey/blue thumb hole griptilian is nice. Pretty sure that’s the 20CV one.






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R3alJim Shady

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
https://www.fasttech.com/product/9717112-sxk-bantam-revision-30w-vv-vw-apv-box-mod-kit

Apparently they've made a few "improvements" to the Bantam Box..

I like the quick release nut (the knurled part would be better if it were black) and the inclusion of a EUC bridge/adapter. I'd like to see if the chip is more accurate though. I have to run my OG a couple watts higher than my Billet.

The included pod/tank/thing is a step backwards IMO.


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BrewBear

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I like their steel...just not a fan of plastic handles and their spring lock...it’s not if it will fail...just when.


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This one has micarta handles and I'll be getting extra springs, juuust in case.
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
This one has micarta handles and I'll be getting extra springs, juuust in case.
Honestly the ones who break the springs are the finger flicker types, if you open any knife as intended... they will outlast the user.

One thing for them is their blade warranty, almost ironclad. As long as you aren’t using it as a pry bar they will warranty it. But it’s still up to them to deem if it was a failure or user neglect.

It’s why I don’t mind anything S35VN+ I don’t pry, I don’t need to break down a pallet of boxes; and 35 is pretty much a standard.

I feel the same about 3V, I like that steel...

Although as I always say, I wish CRK would go with 20CV...

I’d go as far as having a knife maker make a 20CV blade for my Inkosi, just not sure who to have do this.


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~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
You’re all in on knives

And here I am with my 2 EDCs


Side note... bought the Trinity V2 RDA...really hoping the Goons cap fits it.


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