Become a Patron!

Does everybody but me love the Profile RDA?

ajvapes

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
VU Patreon
Ok, but I was squonking it drowning. As in top off, squeeze until juice was almost running out the ariflow holes, AFTER the rest was pulled back into the bottle (Desire Cut) and it was burning a few seconds in above 65 watts. Every fathomable tip and trick is on the previous pages of this thread.


I knew I liked you when you first showed up here. :D That IS EXACTLY what I was thinking about last night. For lack of a better way of putting it, maybe with those massive wicks, different areas of the cotton (or whatever material) are competing with each other over which gets the juice first. Then I thought, but there's really only one area going dry, that being the uppermost part that contacts the mesh. However, once that area is dry, it has to get more juice, which isn't coming directly from the well of course, but through the rest of the cotton first.

That is the key question. Does the dry part of the cotton, get more juice from the immediately adjacent cotton, and THEN the well sends more through the rest of the wick? OR does the well have to send more juice BEFORE the dry part gets what it needs? I'm theorizing that it's a range of both and that it depends on a few factors, not least of which is the volume of cotton. (The immediately preceding applies to any atomizer)


It seems counter intuitive on one level, but maybe with less cotton to compete with, it would get to the surface of the mesh faster. Not only that, but it weighs less and also isn't fighting gravity as hard.

With the Unity, there is an extra, low volume upper region of cotton that draws from the holes in the chamber, which are not below, but level with the surface of the mesh. No fight with gravity. The fact that it's a tank, as has already been addressed, of course means that back pressure is gently pumping liquid, both through the holes and the ports, which being lower get more pressure. Which is good because they need more pressure than the holes because they're lower.

Why do I not get dry hits at high wattage on the Drop for instance with it's 3 story high posts? On a series box and a .27 build. Because at some level the volume of cotton reaches a point of diminishing returns, where more actually wicks less efficiently for reasons that are somewhere in all this stuff I have presently been prattling on about. I think it's in there even if this isn't precisely right.

OR, I'm an over analytical blithering imbecile whom everyone one would do best to ignore. :confused:
As a member of this "Fellowship of the Mesh" I too wonder if we are over thinking a problem that does not exist. Question: When you squonk do you see the liquid coming up through the mesh?
 

ajvapes

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
VU Patreon
I agree. I knew going into the first build everyone said to use a lot of wicking, I guess I just got a little rambunctious.
I have been adding a second spring under the block to make up for less cotton. Have found early on that too much cotton chokes off the capillary action. Something I do on these that I never did on other RDAs is to comb out the cotton a little...
 

Syythe

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
I have been adding a second spring under the block to make up for less cotton. Have found early on that too much cotton chokes off the capillary action. Something I do on these that I never did on other RDAs is to comb out the cotton a little...

I have a second spring installed as well. I did that the second or third day I had it. Seem to help.
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
As a member of this "Fellowship of the Mesh" I too wonder if we are over thinking a problem that does not exist. Question: When you squonk do you see the liquid coming up through the mesh?
Like I said, I took the top part of the cap off and watched it flood the entire deck to where there were pools sitting on the mesh and trying to get out of the airflow holes and it still burned on me. It would top out at like 50 or 55 watts and start burning no matter WHAT I tried. when something new comes up, I try that too. Bobshere sent me some rayon and I did it up like he said and that got me a few more watts, but still too tame for me.

I went through this for weeks through numerous builds and wicking methods. It's all in this thread.

The bottom line is, I'm just not a mesh guy. I like flavor, but if it doesn't come with some heat it's ho hum to me.

It does open the door for learning though.
 

ajvapes

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
VU Patreon
I tried hits at 50 &55.
at 55 on nexmesh I got 3 hits and the forth was a drier hit, with ss 2
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I dunno.

Nothing having to do with you, but I'm not up to typing this all over again. You can look back over this thread and see what you think if you like.
 

ScottishDuck13

Member For 2 Years
Get a full strip of Cotton Bacon and divide the thickness exactly in half... I then cut them in half lengthways and now have 4 perfect 'Profile wicks'. Then build as usual, do the first soak, take a few hits then gently squeeze the squonk bottle. You should see the whole surface of the mesh go shiny almost instantly with a thin coating of juice way before anything starts to come up round the sides. I admit I do have the see-though white profile which has really helped me see how this method performs.

My habit is to give the squonk bottle 2 or 3 quick pushes, this is important, holding the squonk bottle in one long hard push doesnt seem to push it up and more out and around the sides. Whereas the short sharp squonks push it straight up. Do this every few pulls, especially if you have something like the Topside where I dont even need to change my hand postion, I just use my middle finger to give a couple of quick pushes.

I have never had a dry hit on it (unless ive been testing other ways, but never through this method) and always top flavour. I run the Wotofo mesh at 40ish... the Nexmesh at 50ish and the Ni or SS Vandyvape at 60ish. It has just got better with every step up these meshes. I find I can go 10w or so above what I said on each one but it doesnt seem to add much to the flavour.

Hope this helps :)
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I'm at 75 watts in the Unity and it's still on the cool-ish side for me. The flavor IS good though. I won't take that away from it.
 

lordmage

The Sky has Fallen. the End is Here.
Staff member
Senior Moderator
VU Donator
Gold Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
well i think i may have stumbled on the reason why we all have a varied experience on mesh and wicking. i will try my best to share it

it is the bend tool plus the clamp placement.

i tried something i saw in djlsvapes video about using the tool to help with mesh placement and noticed that if you bend the mesh first the mesh will not clamp in place since it is to round i always just barely mange to get them both in place. so what i did was placed a unbent mesh in one clamp and with the tool pressing the deck down bent the mesh over took some adjustment to get the two clamps to secure. then when i pulsed i did notice a difference in the ramp up no hot spots in either case. that being before i would go red fast at 10 watts but now at 12 watts there is a slight delay like an old wire build warming up not as slow but there is a small delay vs before both cases it was reading .13

For the record the only part of the mesh that should be in the clamps is the solid bar at the base of it. but when i compared the pre-bent mesh to the new placed mesh. the pre-bent went just slightly further in barely noticed it over a few replacements which might explain the difference in the ramp up. in all cases the mesh was even across the top just a slightly different half moon shape.

for the record i use the wotofo profile xwick when wicking but was always getting brown or burnt at 45 watts with 3 second pulls and sqonks between all pulls after one day i would have to rewick. i did have longer on some vs others but i think this was due to proper moon shape and mesh placement.
The best use case for me was 4 days using wotofo mesh but the flavor was not as pronounced even then i had to rewick at 4 days at 35 watts

i will report back if this wicking last longer
 

ajvapes

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
VU Patreon
well i think i may have stumbled on the reason why we all have a varied experience on mesh and wicking. i will try my best to share it

it is the bend tool plus the clamp placement.

i tried something i saw in djlsvapes video about using the tool to help with mesh placement and noticed that if you bend the mesh first the mesh will not clamp in place since it is to round i always just barely mange to get them both in place. so what i did was placed a unbent mesh in one clamp and with the tool pressing the deck down bent the mesh over took some adjustment to get the two clamps to secure. then when i pulsed i did notice a difference in the ramp up no hot spots in either case. that being before i would go red fast at 10 watts but now at 12 watts there is a slight delay like an old wire build warming up not as slow but there is a small delay vs before both cases it was reading .13

For the record the only part of the mesh that should be in the clamps is the solid bar at the base of it. but when i compared the pre-bent mesh to the new placed mesh. the pre-bent went just slightly further in barely noticed it over a few replacements which might explain the difference in the ramp up. in all cases the mesh was even across the top just a slightly different half moon shape.

for the record i use the wotofo profile xwick when wicking but was always getting brown or burnt at 45 watts with 3 second pulls and sqonks between all pulls after one day i would have to rewick. i did have longer on some vs others but i think this was due to proper moon shape and mesh placement.
The best use case for me was 4 days using wotofo mesh but the flavor was not as pronounced even then i had to rewick at 4 days at 35 watts

i will report back if this wicking last longer
I only bend the mesh strip to make a U shape, then insert and clamp one side at a time. The first build I did was with Wotofo mesh and cotton. It burnt.... Now only Nexmesh and Cotn lump. Not a problem since..
 

lordmage

The Sky has Fallen. the End is Here.
Staff member
Senior Moderator
VU Donator
Gold Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
I only bend the mesh strip to make a U shape, then insert and clamp one side at a time. The first build I did was with Wotofo mesh and cotton. It burnt.... Now only Nexmesh and Cotn lump. Not a problem since..
i think that is what mine came out to looking like a u shape with a load of cotton... what i am mainly testing now is the "For profile X fiber" so it should be the correct amount of cotton if not then i am sure the marketing or rd at wotofo will need to make adjustments
 

ajvapes

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
VU Patreon
i think that is what mine came out to looking like a u shape with a load of cotton... what i am mainly testing now is the "For profile X fiber" so it should be the correct amount of cotton if not then i am sure the marketing or rd at wotofo will need to make adjustments
I see the right amount of cotton is the same tension as the cotton in a conventional coil, a bit of friction when being pulled through but not tight where it takes some effort to move it.
 

BobsHere

From Wherever
VU Donator
Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
I only bend the mesh strip to make a U shape, then insert and clamp one side at a time.
Same here. Just strain my old eyes to line up the top of the solid part with the top of the clamp. I think I would jack it up trying to bend around the tool with 1 side clamped, but that may be just be me. The slightest deformation in the right spot and it will burn there and spread out as that area doesn't wick anymore.
Have not tried the x-fiber....I'm stuck on rayon/cotton all the way. I've used cotton bacon on several builds but it gunks way quicker than the rayon on top.
 

ScottishDuck13

Member For 2 Years
Morning guys,

Hope one of you can help answer something as Im not too clued up on material/metals etc. Remember a couple of pages ago when we were talking about the hardware in the RDA? I had said that I took the strong spring out of a pen and cut it into quarters (as it was far too long) and just used that instead of 2 of the stock Profile springs...

So its worked perfectly, however I just dismantled it cause I was trying to figure out why my 2 Profile screw fully down a face different direction on the same mod, anyway, the 'Pen' spring is black! And compared to the other3 cut bits which are bright silver I'm not sure if its just darkened due to heat or the juice or something else, but I am questioning if it is safe to use?!

I have taken it out for now and just put 3 stock springs in. Anyone able to give any input?

Cheers :)
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Morning guys,

Hope one of you can help answer something as Im not too clued up on material/metals etc. Remember a couple of pages ago when we were talking about the hardware in the RDA? I had said that I took the strong spring out of a pen and cut it into quarters (as it was far too long) and just used that instead of 2 of the stock Profile springs...

So its worked perfectly, however I just dismantled it cause I was trying to figure out why my 2 Profile screw fully down a face different direction on the same mod, anyway, the 'Pen' spring is black! And compared to the other3 cut bits which are bright silver I'm not sure if its just darkened due to heat or the juice or something else, but I am questioning if it is safe to use?!

I have taken it out for now and just put 3 stock springs in. Anyone able to give any input?

Cheers :)
I can't speak to your exact situation, but I'm pretty sure the springs aren't supposed to be conducting electricity.
 

ajvapes

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
VU Patreon
Morning guys,

Hope one of you can help answer something as Im not too clued up on material/metals etc. Remember a couple of pages ago when we were talking about the hardware in the RDA? I had said that I took the strong spring out of a pen and cut it into quarters (as it was far too long) and just used that instead of 2 of the stock Profile springs...

So its worked perfectly, however I just dismantled it cause I was trying to figure out why my 2 Profile screw fully down a face different direction on the same mod, anyway, the 'Pen' spring is black! And compared to the other3 cut bits which are bright silver I'm not sure if its just darkened due to heat or the juice or something else, but I am questioning if it is safe to use?!

I have taken it out for now and just put 3 stock springs in. Anyone able to give any input?

Cheers :)
I am going to guess that it is oxidation (tarnished) due to the e- liquid.
 

lordmage

The Sky has Fallen. the End is Here.
Staff member
Senior Moderator
VU Donator
Gold Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
well i am in the unity over Doom camp. bit tricker to wick but the flavor and air flow is way better in the unity.
 

lordmage

The Sky has Fallen. the End is Here.
Staff member
Senior Moderator
VU Donator
Gold Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
i have no with warm but then again im usually 40-50 watts
 

gadget!

"The Trader"
VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
VU SWAT
VU Patreon
Mine has not shipped yet, ordered 3 packs, getting ready for the vapocalypse. Also ordered a wotofo toolkit from 8vape for $16.99.
Damn...
I was wrong, I could have swore it said expected 7/01

b755324f8f9981d68aa28960be3750ba.jpg


Sent from a Galaxy far far away!
 

ajvapes

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
VU Patreon
Damn...
I was wrong, I could have swore it said expected 7/01

b755324f8f9981d68aa28960be3750ba.jpg


Sent from a Galaxy far far away!
Label Created, not yet in system

A status update is not yet available on your Priority Mail® package. It will be available when the shipper provides an update or the package is delivered to USPS. Check back soon.
 

ajvapes

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
VU Patreon
Yes!
I got my SS Mesh in yesterday and I love it!
I do like TC mode and this works fantastic.

4f3a21854ce16892c867a5e1647bf0d6.jpg


6c108b495cb6f6db4a36298d3f878ed7.jpg


Sent from a Galaxy far far away!
Working great on the Cabon, Dual Topside, Jackaroo and the Aegis Legend. So far converted two
profiles and two Unitys....
 

ScottishDuck13

Member For 2 Years
Any of you guys who have got the Nexmesh SS version ever use the VandyVape spools to compare? I get great flavour off the spools but a little fussy having to cut each little bit, just wondering how the OFRF ones compare...
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Any of you guys who have got the Nexmesh SS version ever use the VandyVape spools to compare? I get great flavour off the spools but a little fussy having to cut each little bit, just wondering how the OFRF ones compare...
I'm thinking that the larger thicker OFRF mesh pattern will make tracking resistance better than the fine window screen style VV mesh does. Just speculation.

I'm going to get some, but I'm not wiling to spend 8 dollars to ship a 10 dollar item that weighs an ounce or 2. I'll wait until the budget allows and I need something else from there too.
 

ScottishDuck13

Member For 2 Years
Im waiting until Fasttech stock it then will just order with some other stuff. Still waiting on the Topside Dual Carbon :( its now coming up as 'Product Shortage' and ETA of like 22days. They claim something about the warehouse is had issues with the old mold so need to change it?! Dont know how true.

In the meantime Ive been very happy with the VV SS316L mesh. But question for you guys... i am using the 200 just now, seems goo, just wondering what difference would it make going to the either 150 or 300 should going higher or lower change the flavour? ohms? longevity? etc :)
 

ajvapes

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
VU Patreon
My spools of VV mesh have gone into the box of Vapepocalypse supplies.
 

ScottishDuck13

Member For 2 Years
Fasttech have them listed, still a couple of weeks before stock but have added them to my basket to get next time I order something. Also added the mesh strips made for the new Slatra RDA (which I am waiting to hear how it works without the spring clamp keeping the wick in contact).

they seem same length as the Profile's strips but slightly narrower. They have:

Kanthal 0.13ohm
Ni80 0.22ohm
Kanthal 0.26ohm

Added all 3 to test them in the profile :D
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I have 5 Profiles and it is by far my favorite Squonk RDA using mesh like it is intended.

But that being said, I'm always experimenting.

I was gifted some notch coils, I wasn't sure what I was going to do with them but I decided to try one in the Profile and I am honestly impressed. The flavor is great and it wicks great.

But wait, there's more!

I always wondered what the Profile would be like as a dripper so I put one of the 22mm conversion caps on one and a solid 510 pin and it's an awesome dripper as well!

Notch coil
6becf21474f279ba503b0c38aa64b532.jpg


Dripper
872b03da0d5a967a76c3fe4105850e60.jpg
I grabbed a pack of these notch coils from Breazy when I was getting something else and these are great in the Profile rda. I didn't get it as straight as I wanted, but vapes really good actually at 60 watts.
20190716_120901_cr.jpg
 
Last edited:

dubya314

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Im kinda thinking im just not a mesh guy as well. IDK, I haven't messed around with it a ton, and will try some more. I am finding, for me, with all that cotton, it is either too saturated of a vape, or on the verge of dry. Can't seem to find a middle ground.
That said, I am a big fan of single coil squonking/dripping, and I absolutely love the profile in single coil mode. The af is as smooth as anything I have ever tried.
Also have never tried a notch coil, but now ya gots me thinking.......

Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
That said, I am a big fan of single coil squonking/dripping, and I absolutely love the profile in single coil mode.
I'm mostly a dual coil guy and I even love the Profile with a 4mm single or these notch coils now. Goes great on my Desire Cut with a Molicell 20700.
 

dubya314

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
I'm mostly a dual coil guy and I even love the Profile with a 4mm single or these notch coils now. Goes great on my Desire Cut with a Molicell 20700.
Hands way way down, my favorite battery I have or have tried. I just love them. I only wish more of my mods would take them. Specifically lots of my squonks, and almost all of my single cell regulated

Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk
 

dubya314

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Thanks, im going to give em a shot. Although makes me think of another reason I think im struggling with mesh, I just like to wrap and build my own for the most part. But if I do like them, it would be handy to have a few laying around at the ready

Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk
 

ajvapes

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
VU Patreon

VU Sponsors

Top