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Orange Splice

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I bought two new mods and a fresh set of 18650s but my atomizers aren't working. They're old but were never used or opened. The mods are both pretty advanced 1s the Heatvape invader mini and the others a BEC Pro by Smok. I'm thinking maybe do they require a special quality of atomizer? The atomizers I've got are all for my pretty oldschool Kanger Protank and they'd been working fine with my Vamo mods until the Vamos connections would get worn <also need a fix for That bother as well
 

Orange Splice

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I bought two new mods and a fresh set of 18650s but my atomizers aren't working. They're old but were never used or opened. The mods are both pretty advanced 1s the Heatvape invader mini and the others a BEC Pro by Smok. I'm thinking maybe do they require a special quality of atomizer? The atomizers I've got are all for my pretty oldschool Kanger Protank and they'd been working fine with my Vamo mods until the Vamos connections would get worn <also need a fix for That bother as well
 

Huckleberried

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Not that I'm a pro or anything like one, but I don't know why those wouldn't work. 510 threading, 510 tank. That's odd.
 

AmandaD

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Moved to the correct section where you may get more replies! (No need to repost again!)
 

Markw4mms

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Look in the center of the 510 connector at the bottom of your tank. Most have a slotted screw that can be adjusted to make better contact with the mods connector. Try backing that screw out just a little bit and see if that helps.
 

Huckleberried

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Oh yeah, great idea Mark!! Those can get pushed in pretty far, and if that doesn't make contact, you won't get anything. I used those suckers to death for over 2 years.
 

Orange Splice

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Look in the center of the 510 connector at the bottom of your tank. Most have a slotted screw that can be adjusted to make better contact with the mods connector. Try backing that screw out just a little bit and see if that helps.
Nope. Nothing
 

Huckleberried

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I really can't imagine why else those wouldn't work on any mod. Protank 2 tanks and protank 2 coil heads?
 

Orange Splice

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These mods are more advanced than my previous ones tho. They've got the temperature settings, the Watts and volts and neato other features that I have yet to enjoy
 

Huckleberried

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So strange, all my Protanks work on all the mods I have and 3 of them have TC. Have you tried more than one coil? It's possible to get a bad one. Probably a silly question, but figured I'd ask.
 

nightshard

It's VG/PG not PG/VG
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My PT2 was my favorite, but that was 4 years ago.
Maybe it's time to move on and get some modern tanks for you modern mods.
 

Orange Splice

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So strange, all my Protanks work on all the mods I have and 3 of them have TC. Have you tried more than one coil? It's possible to get a bad one. Probably a silly question, but figured I'd ask.
Protanks are my favorite too bc the atomizers are easy to rebuild even with ssmesh. U got any ideas per way of an upgrade like a top fill w a big tank and better Atty for ssmesh rebuild?
 

Whiskey

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I like the T22's (Prisim) for that type of tank, easy to use and is much like the pro-tanks in my opinion
Innokin%20T22-500x500.jpg

IMG_20160403_1018064641_zpspxhjjidn.jpg
 

BKTOAD

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Have you tried a different tank on your mod? Or the tank you have trouble with on a different mod? Might not be a atty issue, possibly the mod. Also, fresh charged battery?
 

Orange Splice

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I like the T22's (Prisim) for that type of tank, easy to use and is much like the pro-tanks in my opinion
Innokin%20T22-500x500.jpg

IMG_20160403_1018064641_zpspxhjjidn.jpg

I like the T22's (Prisim) for that type of tank, easy to use and is much like the pro-tanks in my opinion
Innokin%20T22-500x500.jpg

IMG_20160403_1018064641_zpspxhjjidn.jpg
Thanks for the suggestion. I suppose I'll go on looking. I think I'm going to get a Smok brand or Heatvape to be certain now that I think about it, but Thanks anyway
 

Alter

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If you look on the bottom of the coil, the little chrome pin is the positive pin, get your fingernails and pull it out maybe a 1/16 inch so it protruding out from the insulator a bit then put the tank together and try again. If your using protanks then getting a kanger airflow adapter is the best way to go cause you'll run into the squished insulator dilemma and the airflow adapter solves that issue. If the insulator is opaque and not white or solid color then your almost guaranteed the squish issue. There also is a oring under the flange part of the head also, I found some were round and some flat, I dunno why but I found the round ones in some bases didn't make contact, change the bases around and try that also.
Something else is take a brand new head and open it up and take the flavor wicks and offset them with tweezers so a bit of each is sticking out the ends, flush with the wick or replace them with a piece of 1mm silica wick(cut some from a old top coil clearo head you might have around) this will help corral some of the leaking issues protank have.
My wife and I vaped rebuild protanks for almost a couple years and they are great atty if you figure out their quirks.
 

Huckleberried

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Depends on the kind of draw you like, as far as suggestions go - super tight airflow or a bit airy, to wide open. There are so many really good tanks available.

Since you can rebuild Protank heads, you'll have no trouble with RTA's. Believe me, I didn't want to stray from my Protanks, but I've been really happy with the Goblin Mini tanks, the v2 is a top fill but the wicking is finicky, Lemo Drop (not top fill), Merlin tank (top fill), though there do seem to be some QC issues, but many people have NO issues at all - they've been fixable, Eleaf GS tanks (not top fill) take premade coils, but those can be rebuilt, too, I discovered.

None of the ones I've suggested are super tight airflow. I drilled out my Protank 2's a bit. These recommendations are a bit more airy.

Check out the subtank and clearomizers area. There are a few threads there for MTL vapers with lots of recommendations.
 

Orange Splice

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Look in the center of the 510 connector at the bottom of your tank. Most have a slotted screw that can be adjusted to make better contact with the mods connector. Try backing that screw out just a little bit and see if that helps.
Do you think it matters what guage kanthal I use ? I'm using 32 gauge right now.
 

Alter

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I found that 32 gauge begins to distort and get ornery after a couple dryburns and rewickings. If your after 2.0ohm and higher then 32 will work but its thin and easily bent outta shape. I find 30 gauge in protank builds a nice wire to work with, little thicker than 32 and holds its shape better. Find something that just fits the slots, 5 wraps of 30 and you gettin 1.6-1.8ohm builds. You can still get PT insulators and orings so if your planning to rebuild, having those inhand supply is a asset since the insulators burn and/or dry out from use.
My wife still vaped PT's long after I gave them up to kayfuns and now we both vape subtank mini's. Protank rebuilding set the stage for me to almost be able to rebuild anything now.
 

Huckleberried

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That's what I did. Anything from 29 to 32g on those. Haven't used them in a little while now, but I still have those and all the little coil heads. If you need instulators for them, Lightning vapes sells those.
 

Nancy_Bout

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Protanks are known for issues of connecting the center pin- i used to get an earring (or safety pin) and pull it down (the middle pin on the protank) than wham it would show on my old MVP- and I learned this trick as a newbie lol
Thanks to online message boards ❤️
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Orange Splice

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So I notice my Heatvape invader mini isn't reading or heating my atomizer. Any tips for a mod that won't read the atomizer. It just gives me a message saying "Atomizer open"
 

georgemeadal

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The invader mini is a big pain in the butt with their 510 pin being fixed and the adjustment collar is finicky. clean the threads of that collar on the small hole the atomizer screws into and also the threads of the part of the collar that screws on to the Invader mini. Clean the actual "collar" threads of the Invader Mini itself.
Next remove the collar from the Mini and screw the atomizer in to the collar. Then screw the collar/atomizer as one on to the Mini until you feel the atomizer base contacting the fixed pin of the Mini. Don't screw too hard or the atomizer positive pin insulator or coil positive pin insulator will be smushed causing you to having an atomizer problem. i.e., it is very easy to over tighten the base/collar and create a short.
Very finicky mod indeed.
Good luck.
 

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