yeah that happens. i have seen people show up, learn to build, start an instagram, get sponsored and then leave. others stick around for a while, or come back occasionally...others are more aloof and just post a couple pics every few months and disappear again. its all good to me. i think its cool seeing someone come in here and start from scratch and end up sponsored or otherwise' famous'. thats not what i am looking for, so i am happy to just put my time back in here where i came up from nothing. @CrazyChef v2.0 and @raymo2u were the two biggest helpers when i was coming up. without them offering advice and putting up with my noob questions and over-enthusiasm i wouldnt be able to do this. i literally needed them to end up here now, so i feel its pretty important to try to keep doing that for someone else.
i found a spool of fishing line thats the same size as 38 gauge. it works pretty well for paraclap. i only tried it once, and havnt picked it up again, but it seemed like the line i unwrapped could even be used again. its $5/100ft though, so its not as expensive to waste as actual wire, in the event that it doesnt work a second time.
i use the spool tamer and a wire behind it i just make two seperate staggers. Easyer for me to deal with 2 2 foot chuncks then 1 4 foot chunk just me though
That is exactly what I did in February last year, using 36g Ni80 to make my first own coil build (the SSFC).
The problem of slipping out of position is fixed by combining the button trick and the weighted method into one. I already told about this right here in the thread not too long after I completed my first own coil build. However, I found that with 38g Ni80 it doesn't work reliably enough because under the weight the tiny piece of wire that's used to tie the button down will snap too easily so nowadays I tend to just use the traditional loop method (by holding the loop with my─tip of my─pinky finger and adjusting the length of the loop to render that possible).
its my pleasure sir
i think its pretty fucking cool that you are a mod here now, and one of the main people in this thread helping and encouraging and teaching people how to build. im glad i managed to convince you to come hang out back then 
The problem of slipping out of position is fixed by combining the button trick and the weighted method into one. I already told about this right here in the thread not too long after I completed my first own coil build. However, I found that with 38g Ni80 it doesn't work reliably enough because under the weight the tiny piece of wire that's used to tie the button down will snap too easily so nowadays I tend to just use the traditional loop method (by holding the loop with my─tip of my─pinky finger and adjusting the length of the loop to render that possible).
As for choosing the right button... mine is about ¾″ and I use it with the convex side ( =back side) positioned against the core.
I now combine the loop method and ziploc technique together. With delicate, higher gauge wire this has worked wonders for me.
Yes, I keep the ziploc bag with a single spool standing upright in a box on the floor. The loop method also works for regular claptons, not just spaced claptons... all you need to do to make it work with a regular clapton is put the loop on the other side of your lead ( =wrap wire), and, the same holds true for the button trick as well. Attaching the botton becomes less of a PITA if, beforehand, you freehand-clapton about ¾″ so that, next, you can use a small piece of masking tape to temporarily hold the button in place until you've finished tying it to your core. I.e., just tape the button to the beak of your drill in such a way that you can later remove the piece of tape without kinking up your core.
Love listening to under oath gives me that motivation to clean crank start again redundancy in building and in sobriety. These were the worst ones. I can make them blindfolded now.
Music building and friends are keeping me sane, I love y'all.
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Luckily my estimations for wrapping is on point. It had some double clapton on the back
Someone on here said finding the best angle for photos is the hardest, gotta try keep all the jankiness out lol. As long as it vapes well its a winner
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Half SSFC. 6 .5x.1 K1/26g K1/36g Ni80. 5/6 3mm ID wraps came to 0.15ohms on my Goon 1.5 x Smoant Charon.
Was actually planning to make a full SSFC but only made 1 side of staggered clapton since I'm shit at staggering.
View attachment 101809
Rad, dude.Love listening to under oath gives me that motivation to clean crank start again redundancy in building and in sobriety. These were the worst ones. I can make them blindfolded now.
Music building and friends are keeping me sane, I love y'all.
Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk
Yup, ordered a set yesterday.
i noticed that too. i found it was because i under-stretched. as you wrap that up and squeeze on it to get that last bit of stretch, the whole decore spirals out a little behind you. if it has stitch inside it they get all fucked up. stop and gently slide your hand down the length of decore often.
i found that it worked easier with the smallest stitch possible, or the largest difference between wrap and stitch gauges that you can do. for example, i think its easier to do 36/42 or 38/42 than it would be to do 38/40, 36/38 or 40/42...i only pulled off a couple builds though, so take my advice with a grain of salt (nics)....
im not sure. i think its the gauge of the stitch that determines the spacing (or the potential tightness of it at least). i have no idea what would happen regarding the waves. make sure to post your findings
Great job. Definitely some n80 will help your cause of heat issue. That's the one thing I hated about kanthal. The ramp down time. Like you said 2 or 3 hits after the button is released. Ahhh
I’ve not seen that!