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Dawn0810

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b998accfd96bafdfde7966a46de1299d.jpg



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Dawn0810

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Single or dual coil? I totally forgot that I wanted to see how TC worked with my zephyrus; just got all caught up in building that day. Haha. Would a dual 6 wrap at 2mm be super low ohm?
So I did my own Zephyrus w 30g Ni 8 3mm wraps dual coil
74b303ce8f795d5ee38d2de87d2a74c7.jpg

Came in at .24 ohms


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BrattVapes

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I didn't build. I passed out ha-ha I've been very tired lately. 60 hours of work an school... Gets to me

Matt
 

Schmucko

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Hows the juice flow on the aromamizer? Mine is on its way but i mainly make 90/10 blends and was wondering if i need to dilute it more

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Dawn0810

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I would because the way the juice flows to me it doesn't saturate the cotton as well as say the Bellus the Bellus lines up the grooves so the slit the juice comes down from is directly over the coil. Here's the inside of both maybe you can get what I'm trying to say it's been a long day
aec85fc6ce2452e3fc7e8f98c39320d4.jpg
4c90e489175cb251daa6e8026ecb257f.jpg

That's the reason I like the Bellus just that much more than the aromamizer


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Schmucko

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I would because the way the juice flows to me it doesn't saturate the cotton as well as say the Bellus the Bellus lines up the grooves so the slit the juice comes down from is directly over the coil. Here's the inside of both maybe you can get what I'm trying to say it's been a long day
aec85fc6ce2452e3fc7e8f98c39320d4.jpg
4c90e489175cb251daa6e8026ecb257f.jpg

That's the reason I like the Bellus just that much more than the aromamizer


Sent from the lab in my basement of vapement
Long day for me too... I just see pictures of shiny things right now... But i think i get the jist, thanks. Was thinking about getting a bellus too anyways.

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turnman34

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My latest. Pretty basic. 24awg Kanthal. 6 wraps dual coils, 2.5mm. Reading at about .27 ohms. Not bad. Using phenotype-L RDA. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1450313778.218319.jpg


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Bucky205

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WOW!!! How do you wick it???


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On both sides, came up from the well, ran through in an S pattern, and back into the well on the opposite side of the coil. Think this thing is going to be a battery hog though. It is a really warm, full vape running at 100 watts.
 

turnman34

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On both sides, came up from the well, ran through in an S pattern, and back into the well on the opposite side of the coil. Think this thing is going to be a battery hog though.
I bet!! Looks nice though!!


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Bucky205

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Have you tried any Fused Clapton Build with moderate power to it??
I've tried fused claptons, and regular claptons with about everything I can lay hands on including titanium. The ramp delay comes in because of the outer wrap. Without the outer wire being electrically active it has to get all of it's heat via transfer from the center wire, or wires. Claptons do provide a lot of flavor, but I'm not a fan of the ramp up time. Your build of 24 ga, 6 wrap, 2.5 ID or 26, parralel, 6 wrap, 2.5 ID. are my standards. Both will ohm just below .2 and produce a good vape instantly when you press fire. If you find a clapton that can ramp as fast as your 24 ga, definitely let me know.
 

bOoMsHaKaLaKaA

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On the verticals, you can fit 3mm easily. That's what I did.

View attachment 35807

The Aromizer's liquid flow (how it goes to the bottom and there's that space where it sits and goes up to the cotton as needed) didn't seem that good to me when I first looked at it. So, I'm wondering, with those vertical coils, do you get dry hits when you chain vape? Also, what if you build them horizontally? That was one of the reasons why I ended up choosing the OBS Crius instead. I might be completely wrong about that though.
 

robot zombie

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I have to right click and bring up image to even see that 44N on there lol. I bet that took a few sec. to spin on.
When working with guages that low, I sometimes can't even tell if the wire is actually there. I've had a few incidents where the wire snapped early on and I just kept going with the drill down the whole length of the wire thinking I'm just making a really consistent stretch of wire only to realize that there was nothing there - so now I what I do is stare at it for a moment when I'm done just to make sure it's there.
 

blakemorder

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There has to be a point if diminishing returns for Clapton size, I mean at some point the grooves have to be too small to hold alot of juice

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raymo2u

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I've tried fused claptons, and regular claptons with about everything I can lay hands on including titanium. The ramp delay comes in because of the outer wrap. Without the outer wire being electrically active it has to get all of it's heat via transfer from the center wire, or wires. Claptons do provide a lot of flavor, but I'm not a fan of the ramp up time. Your build of 24 ga, 6 wrap, 2.5 ID or 26, parralel, 6 wrap, 2.5 ID. are my standards. Both will ohm just below .2 and produce a good vape instantly when you press fire. If you find a clapton that can ramp as fast as your 24 ga, definitely let me know.

There has to be a point if diminishing returns for Clapton size, I mean at some point the grooves have to be too small to hold alot of juice

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This is why Chef and I used 38g and up for outer wraps...it doesnt affect the overall resistance and the ramp up s almost instantaneous, like a parallel build with extra wicking properties, my favorite build uses 22g/46g-lightning ramp up with great wicking properties. I do admit there are small diminishing returns the higher you go but there are still benefits to using the outer wrap, whether you put them through the post or stop the wrap a few mm from the post. Think of it as more of a rough surface for juice to dwell on rather then a smooth wire the juice slips off once warm...and since the wire is thinner the heatsink affect is almost nonexistent but it can still hold plenty of juice. This is why I started experimenting with micro/nano fused claptons (34g/40g+). Should you decide to grab some 22g or 24g in Nichrome80 and then use some 38g+ Nichrome60 and even t 3.6V the ramp up is less then half of a second, I usually press the button just before I can draw from it and its already a hot vape.

Simple build, but it just came out so well.
Dual 2x28K/44N staged with 26N, 3mm I.D., 0.17Ω, Scottish roll
I have to right click and bring up image to even see that 44N on there lol. I bet that took a few sec. to spin on. Nice clean build Crazychef.
Looks like utter complete fucking greatness to me! Almost had you going there :p
Had 3 of my molars yanked yesterday...my teeth are why I havent been spending time with wrapping lately...couldnt think of anything and pain so intense that it makes you spazz out and twitch dance makes it hard to focus and be tedious....
 
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CrazyChef

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There has to be a point if diminishing returns for Clapton size, I mean at some point the grooves have to be too small to hold alot of juice
Yes, and no. One of the reasons I like the fused Claptons so much is the additional space between the 2 core wires for the juice to flow in to. That will not diminish no matter what the outer gauge is. On a standard single core Clapton, yes the smaller the wrap, the less juice will be trapped.
 

Dawn0810

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Why is it every time I got to do a fused Clapton half way down it starts twisting the core to the point it looks like I claptoned twisted wire could I be putting too much tension on the drill so the swivels aren't swiveling right. The first half Its fine it's the second half that ruins it


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Dawn0810

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Angelcigs has the aromamizer clone for 13.99$ just letting ppl know


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raymo2u

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Angelcigs has the aromamizer clone for 13.99$ just letting ppl know


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I emailed them on why my order hasnt shipped yet...I didnt realize its a preorder and it ships where it says ETA then DATE...I was pretty pissed since I was expecting both the Crius V3 and the 2 Aromamizers to show up around the same time....Now its going to be after Christmas for the Aromamizer....My Crius from FastTech and its Clone are almost already here...

I just saw the Double Vision RDA...that looks like a beast, plus you can use the Twisted Messes Caps on it! They give you 2 bases just incase you want to use the base on your TM RDA!
DOUBLE-VISION-RDA2..jpg
Double_Vision_RDA_11.jpg
Double_Vision_RDA_Build_2.jpg
 
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CrazyChef

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it starts twisting the core to the point it looks like I claptoned twisted wire
My guess would be the swivels. Are they ball bearing swivels? Could be too much tension, also, depending on how much weight the swivels are rated for.
 
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Dawn0810

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Where did you see that beast


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Dawn0810

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My guess would be the swivels. Are they ball bearing swivels? Could be too much tension, also, depending on how much weight the swivels a fated for.
Yes they are I think they are size 3 65lbs but I'd have to look when I get home


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MidwestExpress

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Trying to use SteamEngine to design some new coils. I am wanting to do a stage fused clapton. Going to use 28 GA 430 SS and thinking of wrapping in 40 GA. Then stage it with... not sure yet. I want it to be a TC setup but the only SS I have on hand right now is the 28GA... so I would have to stage it with that. If I go with VW then I can stage with 26GA nichrome or 24GA kanthal.

Another thought... what if I staged with twisted 28GA SS... would that be too large (diameter wise) to be the stage? Also, being twisted... would that defeat the purpose of the staged cable.

Never build a staged setup, so not sure of the everything that goes into.
 

raymo2u

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Trying to use SteamEngine to design some new coils. I am wanting to do a stage fused clapton. Going to use 28 GA 430 SS and thinking of wrapping in 40 GA. Then stage it with... not sure yet. I want it to be a TC setup but the only SS I have on hand right now is the 28GA... so I would have to stage it with that. If I go with VW then I can stage with 26GA nichrome or 24GA kanthal.

Another thought... what if I staged with twisted 28GA SS... would that be too large (diameter wise) to be the stage? Also, being twisted... would that defeat the purpose of the staged cable.

Never build a staged setup, so not sure of the everything that goes into.
You an use anything to stage with...we usually stage with a wire thats lower in resistance or matching without the wire being more power thirsty then the actual main wire...but Ive done builds where the stage wire was just as big and bulky as the main wires.
See:
20151001_125106-jpg.33685


Twisted wire should be fine as it should ramp up fast, depending on the other wire it may switch up and the other wire might turn out to be the staging wire instead...
 

bOoMsHaKaLaKaA

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Okay, so I got the Crius off of ebay and it looked a little bit different than what I had seen in reviews. I made sure it was authentic by emailing the manufacturers with the pics. Idk if I'm just being too picky, but I was honestly surprised when I saw this because even the 12 and 20 dollar clone RDA's that I have look better than this.

If you take a look at those parts circled in the pic, you'll notice that the metal pieces are not shiny like the inside parts of the tank and they're not smooth so I'm not sure if that means that it's something other than stainless steel. The ebay seller said it's a "blasted satin finish" and I have no idea what that means. All I know is that it looks and feels cheap. Any thoughts? Thank you.

20151204_231722.jpg 20151204_232603.jpg
 

raymo2u

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Okay, so I got the Crius off of ebay and it looked a little bit different than what I had seen in reviews. I made sure it was authentic by emailing the manufacturers with the pics. Idk if I'm just being too picky, but I was honestly surprised when I saw this because even the 12 and 20 dollar clone RDA's that I have look better than this.

If you take a look at those parts circled in the pic, you'll notice that the metal pieces are not shiny like the inside parts of the tank and they're not smooth so I'm not sure if that means that it's something other than stainless steel. The ebay seller said it's a "blasted satin finish" and I have no idea what that means. All I know is that it looks and feels cheap. Any thoughts? Thank you.

View attachment 35884 View attachment 35885
The Authentic Crius's seem to be made out of a alloy thats no where near as durable as 304/316 SS normally used for creating RDA's/Tanks, it wears fast and many have had issues with the Authentic for this reason, which is why Im buying the clones because my V3 died before I could even use it-Threads wouldnt thread and its a parts tank for my incoming clones. The clones are made from 304 SS AFAIK and many are happy that they are even cheaper.
 

CrazyChef

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I dunno - on my all stainless version everything is polished.
 

bOoMsHaKaLaKaA

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The Authentic Crius's seem to be made out of a alloy thats no where near as durable as 304/316 SS normally used for creating RDA's/Tanks, it wears fast and many have had issues with the Authentic for this reason, which is why Im buying the clones because my V3 died before I could even use it-Threads wouldnt thread and its a parts tank for my incoming clones. The clones are made from 304 SS AFAIK and many are happy that they are even cheaper.

Thank you so much. I was begging the ebay seller and the manufacturers to tell me something about it. Where can I get the clone at?
 

scarecrowjenkins

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Why is it every time I got to do a fused Clapton half way down it starts twisting the core to the point it looks like I claptoned twisted wire could I be putting too much tension on the drill so the swivels aren't swiveling right. The first half Its fine it's the second half that ruins it


Sent from the lab in my basement of vapement
I agree with the Chef, if your swivels are binding up on you this is gonna happen. I know you said you have ball bearing swivels, but the best ones to get are the ones that spin on both sides. Some have a fixed end with only one part that spins, and some have both ends that spin. Its normal to get some twisting, but not as bad as you explained. Pop into your local bait & tackle, they should have what you need. I found mine at gander mountain, so you could always go there if you have one nearby :D
 

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