Should I stop vaping when my mod gets hot.

[Vape Fan]

Also, my Aegis Legend (american flag version) looks sick with the atomizer it comes with. Unfortunetely, the flavor is garbage on this atomizer for some reason. Now I'm looking for an atomizer thats big, black and bulky (to match the aesthetics of the geekvape alpha tank it came with)

This looks like your looking for a tank. Hence the suggestions.

im gonna stick with rda's for now

You have an RDA now,,,,

The Drop RDA requires 20.3 amps (as reported by the Aegis) so should I stop using it on the Aegis with the sony vtc6 batteries?

,,,that you don't seem to understand how to use....

Legend dual battery mod's voltage cut off, [the lowest batt voltage the mod will fire before giving you low batt or other message and not fire], is 3.2volts.
Sony VTC6 is 15A
Watts per VTC6 is 48w because 48w ÷ 3.2v = 15A . So 2xVTC6 is good for 98W total.

 

[emanrdesu]

What do you mean (as reported by the Aegis) ?
The legend has 2 batteries in series. So the amps = that of 1 of the batteries and the volts of both added together.
Some mods have buck and boost, and I believe some only have boost. A mod is a transformer. It can boost amps, using volts I believe. It's complicated unless it's fully understood and I can't say that I do. But I know boost helps supply amps.
Here vaping's expert on this subject.
View attachment 135439


It's not the atomizer than requires amps. The coil(s) do.

I mean the amp reading withing the screen, its 0 when no use, but when I push the fire button and waiting for a tiny bit, it stays at 20.3 or 20.4
Also, danm this is all so complicated.

 

[emanrdesu]

This looks like your looking for a tank. Hence the suggestions.

You have an RDA now,,,,

,,,that you don't seem to understand how to use....

Legend dual battery mod's voltage cut off, [the lowest batt voltage the mod will fire before giving you low batt or other message and not fire], is 3.2volts.
Sony VTC6 is 15A
Watts per VTC6 is 48w because 48w ÷ 3.2v = 15A . So 2xVTC6 is good for 98W total.

you're right, I shouldn't limit myself to only rda and tanks
I do have an rda, im just looking for another atomizer for aesthetic purposes
ok so I can go upto 98w without problems, beyond that is problems right?

 

[Vape Fan]

I mean the amp reading withing the screen, its 0 when no use, but when I push the fire button and waiting for a tiny bit, it stays at 20.3 or 20.4
Also, danm this is all so complicated.

I'm not familiar with Legend screen. You sure it's not 2.3 - 2.4 and volts?

 

[emanrdesu]

I'm not familiar with Legend screen. You sure it's not 2.3 - 2.4 and volts?

2.9 volts (i have rda on it)

 

[MrMeowgi]

If your amps are too high it's the coils. Not the rda or tank or mod. The coils. Build higher ohm coils. That will drop your amps. @vapefan I commend you for keeping this one going. You're a good dude

 

[MyMagicMist]

lmao whats going on this thread

Sorry for derailing. I get lost with all the serious babble. My mind wanders here for some fun.

There is indeed a serious aspect to vaping. Don't let me belittle that either. You need to know there is an outlaying possibility you can blow up, maybe even take others with you. All the same, you also need to know that if you use common sense and a little good judgment you reduce the risks of explosions & other dangers in vaping. It can be fun to vape, but know what you're doing.

Also don't let me aggrandize the risks in vaping. Yes they exist. They are not rampantly common though. We try to ensure common sense of the latest version, bug free, gets instilled/installed in new vapers here. We also tell you "don't do what you read some @MyMagicMist do" and go experiment without knowing enough regarding it. He was sure he could use the 0.20 ohm coil, just that he chose not to for a few reasons.

His experiment taught him he could but coil mass, well, coil mass bites toe jam. So, he's back to not keen on 0.20 ohms again. The mass of the coil was too much for the battery to fire, it had to warm the coil slowly. That "ramp up" time which is discussed was real long. So, it still hogged and bogged out a battery. You can't fool a mech battery, no matter how you build, you can only fool the build by how you build. Those with understanding will reckon the way of coil.

 

[MyMagicMist]

I mean the amp reading withing the screen, its 0 when no use, but when I push the fire button and waiting for a tiny bit, it stays at 20.3 or 20.4
Also, danm this is all so complicated.

That might also be 20.3 or 20.4 Watts you see on the screen.

I think you ought to be fine holding your fire. Sorry, lemme translate that for you. Holding your fire means to keep on keeping on as you are doing. If it's wattage being put on the screen you're alright. It is usually good to start out with low wattage and gradually move up. Wattage is also called Power. This means the "work" the electricity can do, in this case it's heating the coil/s in your atomizer.

Here these might help.

Volts are what your battery/ies have, the contained electrical energy. You push the fire button which closes the circuit, opens the flow of Current/Amps. Amps then get turned into Power/Watts by doing the work, in this case warming up the coil. The Resistance is how the wire coil is formed to impede the Watts from doing their work, creating heat, and in impeding this creates the Watts doing the work. At the one end of the coil is a positive lead. The other end is the negative or Ground lead. Current flows through the coil to do the work, become Watts.

I agree it is a lot of complexity at first. Still mess up at times myself. I don't care much for math but can do trigonometry if I get tricked into doing it. This, this is simple algebra, although it doesn't seem like a walk in the park I'm sure. Regulated mods, ones having screens, bells & whistles usually handle being a calculator for you and you can go on and vape away until you get a battery low warning. When you start with mechs you have to kind of trail and error find a safe zone to build coils congruent to battery specs, more so. This is why, with you using a regulated I'd suggest you hold your fire. You're doing alright for what you're doing.

But yes, do study the images above, download them to use later when you need to recall it. You'll eventually be laughing at your regulated for reading the ohms wrong on a coil once you get the math down. Hope I'm helping.

 

[nadalama]

I mean the amp reading withing the screen, its 0 when no use, but when I push the fire button and waiting for a tiny bit, it stays at 20.3 or 20.4
Also, danm this is all so complicated.

It isn't complicated until you start pushing the limits of your equipment. When you decide you are going as low as ohms CAN go, or as high as watts can go, it becomes imperative to understand the details.

And yes, I'm sure the obs and the Fireluke are big. The original Fireluke comes with an RTA deck, so you can either build it yourself or buy factory coils.

 

[Vape Fan]

If your amps are too high it's the coils. Not the rda or tank or mod. The coils. Build higher ohm coils. That will drop your amps. @vapefan I commend you for keeping this one going. You're a good dude

Thanks. Getting hard to drive it home though

 

[nadalama]

Just for clarification, there is an "Amps" reading on the screen of the Legend.

I have the RTA going in my Fireluke (OG), two 1-ohm SS coils reading at 0.48 ohms on the mod's screen, two Samsung 25R batteries, very nearly fully charged, mod set at 32.5W, and at full fire the amps are reading between 7.5 and 8-ish, volts varying from 3.97 at rest to 4.32 at full fire.

I couldn't even begin to relate all that to make sense in my mind, I am admittedly electronics-impaired, but that's why I don't vape with 0.15 coils or at 90 watts.

ETA: One more thing - the vape off this Legend is NOT wimpy, just so ya know.

 

[MyMagicMist]

Just for clarification, there is an "Amps" reading on the screen of the Legend.

Ahh. Help much this does. Well, Amps can also be called Watts, although there's a trick involved to get there. I squared times R resistance equals your Watts. So the current squared 3.7 times say 0.20 = 68.45 or about 68 Watts total you can get off a 3.7 volt battery if I'm figuring right. I look at the charts & use some online calculators.

Here & Here

Okay now to get the butt out of chair, fall down the stairs & get to work. My witch needs her galley clean if nothing else. She wants to dirty it up again. One of these days I might throw her out. I get the galley clean and here she comes, all dirty minded and makes a mess. *grrs under breath* wait, ... I'd not eat then, huh? Hm, well ... I can cook, .... hm ... yeah okay ...

 

[ajvapes]

you're right, I shouldn't limit myself to only rda and tanks
I do have an rda, im just looking for another atomizer for aesthetic purposes
ok so I can go upto 98w without problems, beyond that is problems right?

The amps readout on the aegis is the current thru the coil, not the batteries.

 

[nadalama]

you're right, I shouldn't limit myself to only rda and tanks
I do have an rda, im just looking for another atomizer for aesthetic purposes
ok so I can go upto 98w without problems, beyond that is problems right?

As nicely as I can say this. It really is not necessary to push your equipment to its limits all the time. Just because you perhaps CAN vape at 98 watts, that doesn't necessarily mean you SHOULD.

You've told us that you're a chain vaper. That makes a big difference. If you insist on pushing the envelope, at least realize that if your mod starts to heat up, it is time to get away from it until you know whether it's going to vent.

There can always be unknown factors. Even good, responsible companies can sometimes make batteries that have manufacturing deficiencies. Good, responsible companies can make mods in which circuits can fail. Good, responsible vapers can do dumb human things. It all happens.

Please don't vape at 98 watts, as hard as you can go, for hours on end.

 

[Wb80]

Just for clarification, there is an "Amps" reading on the screen of the Legend.

I have the RTA going in my Fireluke (OG), two 1-ohm SS coils reading at 0.48 ohms on the mod's screen, two Samsung 25R batteries, very nearly fully charged, mod set at 32.5W, and at full fire the amps are reading between 7.5 and 8-ish, volts varying from 3.97 at rest to 4.32 at full fire.

I couldn't even begin to relate all that to make sense in my mind, I am admittedly electronics-impaired, but that's why I don't vape with 0.15 coils or at 90 watts.

ETA: One more thing - the vape off this Legend is NOT wimpy, just so ya know.

My normal daily rta setup is rite ther with ya. .4 to .5 ohms at about 35w. And it hits hard

 

[nadalama]

My normal daily rta setup is rite ther with ya. .4 to .5 ohms at about 35w. And it hits hard

I have a couple of staged heating coils that read between 0.22 and 0.35, I bump those up to about 40-42W, and those can knock the socks off my son, who is used to vaping at 80W plus at about 0.15 ohms.

A lot more is not necessarily a lot better. Plus I don't go through batteries in an hour, or through 30ml of juice in a day. You have to be open-minded though, willing to discover what really works as opposed to what yer clouds-bro friends brag about.

 

[Wb80]

I have a couple of staged heating coils that read between 0.22 and 0.35, I bump those up to about 40-42W, and those can knock the socks off my son, who is used to vaping at 80W plus at about 0.15 ohms.

A lot more is not necessarily a lot better. Plus I don't go through batteries in an hour, or through 30ml of juice in a day. You have to be open-minded though, willing to discover what really works as opposed to what yer clouds-bro friends brag about.

Agreed. I chain vape all day. With 40% bat left at the end of a day. Prob burn theough 16 ml a day on average. I used to think i liked 65 to 70w. But my veiws changed when i played with higher ohms and thinner g wire.

 

[emanrdesu]

As nicely as I can say this. It really is not necessary to push your equipment to its limits all the time. Just because you perhaps CAN vape at 98 watts, that doesn't necessarily mean you SHOULD.

You've told us that you're a chain vaper. That makes a big difference. If you insist on pushing the envelope, at least realize that if your mod starts to heat up, it is time to get away from it until you know whether it's going to vent.

There can always be unknown factors. Even good, responsible companies can sometimes make batteries that have manufacturing deficiencies. Good, responsible companies can make mods in which circuits can fail. Good, responsible vapers can do dumb human things. It all happens.

Please don't vape at 98 watts, as hard as you can go, for hours on end.

I dont, at 60 is what I currently like, at 80, vapor gets a little hot for me. I wouldn't ever do 90 much less 98

 

[emanrdesu]

Agreed. I chain vape all day. With 40% bat left at the end of a day. Prob burn theough 16 ml a day on average. I used to think i liked 65 to 70w. But my veiws changed when i played with higher ohms and thinner g wire.

Yeah I learned from this thread that higher ohms means less resistance, so it'd make sense to lower wattage.

 

[mkbkr1]

Actually the higher the ohms means higher resistance, lower amperage. Ohms are measurement of the resistance, higher ohm reading, higher resistance. Resistance and amperage (current flow) are inversely proportional, the higher the resistance the lower the current (amp draw).

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