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Squonkers are Bonkers
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itsmenotyou
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I took my airflow control barrel off mine for more open airflow like I prefer.
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Thanks, I'll look at them for next payday. I want two, one for my Dripbox and one for my Geyscano
I'm not crazy, my mother had me tested.
Thanks, I'll look at them for next payday. I want two, one for my Dripbox and one for my Geyscano
I'm not crazy, my mother had me tested.
Slow, erm FastTech them reasonably priced. Bought a set of two there. The all SS one has loose threading top cap. i.e. Will be taking a draw off it and the outer sleeve likes to meet up with the mouth a bit. The black painted/coated one has more snug threading on the outer sleeve.
Not really so much an issue as in it'll end the world. Still both are good 1 to 1 knock offs as far as I can tell. Need to fiddle more with one deck as I think I had a short on it. Happy so far to swap out top caps on one deck but getting the second back up would be nice. Nothing else, as affordable as they are, might buy another set.
The decks seem to be a good solid, universal building deck. Being SS doesn't hurt either. FastTech also has affordable Reo Grand clones. This for me makes a durable kit. Yes, you might need to "baby" the Grand clone a little with applying Ox-Gard every two or three months. Pfft. It's trivial for a mod built like a tank. If you do run into problems the Reo site sells repair kits affordable, think Fat Daddy's offer some parts too.
Not trying to steer you or talk you into anything. Just saying what I'm doing and thinking is doing okay. If you think that sounds good and want to try, go for it. If not, won't hurt my feelings. *chuckles*
Not sure where to post this; some in this thread gotta have some of those "Fancy Italian" bottles. If you have issues with leaking from the silicone tubing where it goes through the bottle's cap, replace that small tubing with "standard" 3/16" OD tubing and drill cap oversize. I used a .149" drill. Works like a charm, and the stouter tubing is far less "floppy." -It gives it an even higher quality feel to the Italian experience. 
In case someone who bought one of mods wants to know. The tubing I install in the Fat Daddy Vape bottles is 3/16" OD by 1/16" wall by !/16" ID White Silicone Tubing purchased on Amazon. So if you want to use The bottle DIYjim mentions just follow his instructions and it will work.
Have you purchased any of the Italian bottles recently?Not sure where to post this; some in this thread gotta have some of those "Fancy Italian" bottles. If you have issues with leaking from the silicone tubing where it goes through the bottle's cap, replace that small tubing with "standard" 3/16" OD tubing and drill cap oversize. I used a .149" drill. Works like a charm, and the stouter tubing is far less "floppy." -It gives it an even higher quality feel to the Italian experience.
View attachment 58428 View attachment 58428
My recent purchase the bottles came with tubing already installed, and the threading on the bottle seems slightly different than the originals, both plus's...!
When I first tried the new bottles I had a hell of a time getting the bottle caps off....I mean to the point of needing a non-slip bottle opener, fearing I may bend the top caps. That's how tight they fit, unreal actually.
Anyway, the improvements are good, not a leak whatsoever with the tubing or caps.
Hank F. Spankman
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I just used a 11/64 drill bit (literally just now). Soooo much better with the original tubing (from my old bottles)
Mine seep at the THREADS - not at the tube hole.
It's just a tiny bit, but I
a) have to wipe the threads most times I refill
b) have to be very careful getting them threaded right every time - they sometimes take a few tries to seat.
- Oh, and I unscrew to fill, while leaving the tube in place...I don't like the idea of pulling the tube on and off the mod more than necessary (which is VERY occasional, to maybe get up in there and wipe something off...)
@inspects I'd be interested if they improved the threading! You got them direct, though, right? No local source other than Reos that I know of, and those are probably a gigantic batch he got when they first came out...
It's just a tiny bit, but I
a) have to wipe the threads most times I refill
b) have to be very careful getting them threaded right every time - they sometimes take a few tries to seat.
- Oh, and I unscrew to fill, while leaving the tube in place...I don't like the idea of pulling the tube on and off the mod more than necessary (which is VERY occasional, to maybe get up in there and wipe something off...)
@inspects I'd be interested if they improved the threading! You got them direct, though, right? No local source other than Reos that I know of, and those are probably a gigantic batch he got when they first came out...
Train, bought them here http://www.tuttaltrofumo.it/
I ordered 41, they sent 50, with the tubing already installed in the top caps.
Arrived from Italy in less than a week.
KentA
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You are going to need an awful lot of new mods & attys or you will waste those bottles.
I don't think you've seen his collection of squonk mods.
Hank F. Spankman
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I added one to my collection today!
Anyone tried squanking with a Tsunami 24
I have tried a dozen builds and it keeps leeking from the air holes
Any idea's ?
Thanks
I have tried a dozen builds and it keeps leeking from the air holes
Any idea's ?
Thanks
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JuicyLucy
My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
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I didn't get leaking but I don't like the air-flow on it - it's too airy for me. I guess there is a reason they call it the tsunami, lol.
JuicyLucy
My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
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Probably 2.5 with SS, 1 ohm.
That's what I've been vaping the last six weeks or so. I gave the tsunami a day and it is now resting in my box of unloved vape stuff
A day at the office with the Halcyon DNA200
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A DNA200 strikes me as massive overkill to power a Cyclone.
A day at the office with the Halcyon DNA200
And that looks like an ashtray next to the water bottle...<with on eyebrow raised, Alby glares accusingly>
A DNA200 strikes me as massive overkill to power a Cyclone.
Three reasons/explanations:
1. Still getting acquainted with TC
2. TC is still relevant to squonking
3. Long battery life for a 1 ohm build.
Aaand I use it with other atties as well that I don't bring to the office.
To be honest, so far I don't really dig TC or regulated mods that much when it comes to squonking (nearly all my presquonking years were spent with regs and RTAs). But I'm still playing with it to give it a chance.
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A remnant of my previous life ages ago (more than 3 years ago). Mainly using it now when rewicking or recoiling my atties.
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I played with it for a long time. A DNA40 squonker that I built myself was my EDC mod for over a year, with mechs as back-ups and desk mods. The DNA board in it finally failed early last winter and despite having plenty of spares, I've never worked up the motivation to replace it, 'cause in the end, the mechs work just as well for me.
KentA
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Both of mine are tight & make good battery contact using LG HE2s. If they didn't make contact, I'd be tempted to install washers to move the contact point while keeping the screw tight. I would be afraid a loose screw above the battery's positive could turn & cause auto-firing.
The Coppervape is machined to hit the top of the battery dead center. Other switch designs that may move laterally need monitoring &/or occasional adjustment.
JuicyLucy
My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
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I'm not big on TC either - it addresses a problem I don't have, lol
At work I use RX200 with Boreas tanks at 1 ohm and the batteries last all week - so I totally get what you are saying on that
I preordered one Sunday
What do they mean by "direct output voltage system"? Mech mod? If so, why do they call it a 50w?
JuicyLucy
My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
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You are not the first to question this - it appears to be a mech.
I really don't care - got it out of curiosity because I like Isticks and can use a beater-squonker
At this point, certainly would not recommend it to a newbie or as a main driver
Saw a review of the Kanger 60w, the guy put an inline volt meter on it and there was no regulation. Probably the same thing here. If that's the case, I might consider getting one at that price point.
KentA
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Just because it is unregulated, that does not automatically make it a mechanical mod. I suspect this Elief Pico Squeeze has plenty of wire & a mosfet.
Yeah, and probably reverse battery protection...
And having a mosfet protected switch doesn't turn a mech into a regulated device.
And having a mosfet protected switch doesn't turn a mech into a regulated device.
Hank F. Spankman
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is one the Ti?
Yep.
delete please thanks
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LuTang
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got my brass coppervape yesterday. really digging it. thanks for the tips @JuicyLucy ! i still need to grind my FDV bf pin a little as there is a bit of a gap from atty to mod.
You and your Goonies. *chuckles*
I think these look to be half decent, if you're used to using a mechanical. Might pick one up, later on down the road. Seen them elsewhere for like ~$25 low end sale price to ~$33 as the high end price..
Got my second Velocity syle deck back to functional yesterday evening, well at least the post notches I put the coil into. Not sure if the other set of notches function but figure they will. Think the short was of the "gremlin got to wear off" kind. I had just set it aside in a box of other gear and planned to "fiddle with it, someday". Well, surprise it's fiddled itself back to operating.
mackman
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Stick one of your nuppins on top of the Halcyon and you can do a single coil build like this
