Ah ok got ya, yeah 2 side juice wellsRda v1.0, the wicks still feed down into 2 holes where the juice squonks up into.
Edit: maybe not so much holes, more like side slots. Actually a very clever design.
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Ah ok got ya, yeah 2 side juice wellsRda v1.0, the wicks still feed down into 2 holes where the juice squonks up into.
Edit: maybe not so much holes, more like side slots. Actually a very clever design.
It sure helped, thanks. I vape mostly in TC so dry hits aren't as much of a concern.
I'll wear rubber gloves?Not so much the chance of dry hits, more the risk of over squonking. Once the juice comes above the wick slots, it has access to run across the little deck right under the coil to the air slots.
The jokes write themselves sometimes...Cheers!I'll wear rubber gloves?
Maybe I've missed something here but I'm not sure how air is going to hit the coil at all.Considering the (Bed) area is so far above the airflow intake & the airflow will be heading in the wrong direction.Down towards the base away from the coil instead of up towards it.Anyone seen or tried the new GeekVape LOOP RDA?
Reminds me of the Medusa a little bit with such a deep juice well. Seems perfect for squonking while not leaking from the afc slots.
DJLSB has a video here:
Your thoughts?
It seems to me that the airflow is directed below the coil itself and then when you inhale, it creates a high velocity airfoil-type of flow that goes around the coil from both sides, and then carries the vapors up thru the drip tip.Maybe I've missed something here but I'm not sure how air is going to hit the coil at all.Considering the (Bed) area is so far above the airflow intake & the airflow will be heading in the wrong direction.Down towards the base away from the coil instead of up towards it.
Oh and Daniel said it gets hot.Which instantly gets it a hard pass for me.
Cool to Warm is the way I fly.
This is the first time in a very long time I've actually been impressed by a YouTube reviewer.I'm going to give a call to my high-school auto-shop teacher and have him look at this dudes stuff.Yes I'm that impressed.It seems to me that the airflow is directed below the coil itself and then when you inhale, it creates a high velocity airfoil-type of flow that goes around the coil from both sides, and then carries the vapors up thru the drip tip.
Morten Oen on YT has many videos demonstrating how air flow actually works, compared to how most of us 'think' how it works and using his video experiments as a reference is how I derived the above thinking.
See here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCMS4GxDHLPvXr5oQrthU60A/videos
Good eye!LP goon for $20 https://www.flawlessvapeshop.com/products/528-customs-goon-lp-rda cheapest I've seen it. No black though...
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Thanks for the heads up on this.LP goon for $20 https://www.flawlessvapeshop.com/products/528-customs-goon-lp-rda cheapest I've seen it. No black though...
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Surely it's completely down to the choice of coils and the wattage.Maybe I've missed something here but I'm not sure how air is going to hit the coil at all.Considering the (Bed) area is so far above the airflow intake & the airflow will be heading in the wrong direction.Down towards the base away from the coil instead of up towards it.
Oh and Daniel said it gets hot.Which instantly gets it a hard pass for me.
Cool to Warm is the way I fly.
Airflow also depends a lot on how hard you suck on the atty.It seems to me that the airflow is directed below the coil itself and then when you inhale, it creates a high velocity airfoil-type of flow that goes around the coil from both sides, and then carries the vapors up thru the drip tip.
Morten Oen on YT has many videos demonstrating how air flow actually works, compared to how most of us 'think' how it works and using his video experiments as a reference is how I derived the above thinking.
See here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCMS4GxDHLPvXr5oQrthU60A/videos
Yes, I agree.Airflow also depends a lot on how hard you suck on the atty.
The airflow will likely be different in the same atty with a slow easier suction than with a hard fast suction.
Especially with side or top airflow attys.
Not always.Surely it's completely down to the choice of coils and the wattage.
As a preference I like very thin wire as it heats up quicker.So I usually go with triple twisted coils with very thin wire.Which gives the coil more mass and a better surface area without cutting down on the ramp up time.I also prefer Ni80 now thanks to @So619CalAll of my RDAs can give me a hot vape with fused Clapton's and 90w and yet those very same RDAs can give an exceptionally cool vape with a 26awg single coil at 20w.
I'm going to refrain from answering that.And why base your decision to buy on what some jumped up scummy shill reviewer that gets his stuff free says anyway ?
Yep.Yes, I agree.
The sweet spot seems to be where the air flow velocity meets the rate of the juice being vaporized (as per power to the coil, and the efficiency of your wicking) and combined with how much air is available/controlled via the opening in the afc...
All of this, in some combination also determines the punch of the flavor, the amount of clouds and the temp of the glorious vapors that exit from the drip tip...
Of course if you've been building a while this might be intuitive or obvious, but it helps me to think of it by spelling it out like this...
I see you. Thanks for your previous comments.Raise you hand if you're ignoring me...Thanks!
No worries...Cheers!I see you. Thanks for your previous comments.
Try shutting down the airflow a bit, I use a similar coil (6 wrap Ni80 24awg) in single coil RDAs and get really great flavour on a mech but I do shut down the air flow quite a bit to make the vapor dense.YIPPEE!!!
Vapemail today- that used Inbox v3 and sealed/new Wasp Nano arrived today!!! s:
The Inbox is in mint condition and seems to work perfectly in wattage mode. I have updated my settings and material profiles via Escribe and am running the case analyzer right now, waiting for it to finish.
However, I put in a simple 24g ss316L 8-spaced-wraps on 3mm build in the Wasp Nano which comes out to 0.48 Ohms, and with the top of the coil level with the top of the 'clamp deck' I am finding that flavor is just 'meh'...and much past 28w it's just too hot and no flavor, but this is slightly improved with a short drip tip...
Any suggestions on simple round wire, or twisted builds for the Wasp Nano?
I dont want to run any clapton or fancy builds on account of how quickly they tend to guzzle juice compared to simpler builds.
However, using Native Wicks Platinum Blend cotton, and after squonking to flood the wicks, I am in fact getting about 20 hits before the cotton is completely dry, which is even better than I was getting on the Goon v1, so I am happy about that.
YIPPEE!!!
Vapemail today- that used Inbox v3 and sealed/new Wasp Nano arrived today!!!
The Inbox is in mint condition and seems to work perfectly in wattage mode. I have updated my settings and material profiles via Escribe and am running the case analyzer right now, waiting for it to finish.
However, I put in a simple 24g ss316L 8-spaced-wraps on 3mm build in the Wasp Nano which comes out to 0.48 Ohms, and with the top of the coil level with the top of the 'clamp deck' I am finding that flavor is just 'meh'...and much past 28w it's just too hot and no flavor, but this is slightly improved with a short drip tip...
Any suggestions on simple round wire, or twisted builds for the Wasp Nano?
I dont want to run any clapton or fancy builds on account of how quickly they tend to guzzle juice compared to simpler builds.
However, using Native Wicks Platinum Blend cotton, and after squonking to flood the wicks, I am in fact getting about 20 hits before the cotton is completely dry, which is even better than I was getting on the Goon v1, so I am happy about that.
Anyone with a Hugo Squeezer?
Do those 3 empty magnet holes inside the door drive you nuts?
Fear not, these cheap cylinder magnets from FT are a perfect fit:
View attachment 107599
https://m.fasttech.com/p/5534901
$1.89 for a 50 pack. Yes, I have extras . Drop me a pm if you need a few.
cheers
I got a squeezer,been wanting to do that to stop the battery rattle.Since your offering,you could send a few my way.Sending PM.
I only run 2x700s in the squeezer.For 18650s I use the Luxotic or pico squeeze.Sure thing. Just keep in mind this is geared more toward running a 20700 or 21700. The plastic adapter sleeve on the 18650 prevents the magets from sticking so you're better off using a thin strip of weather striping stuck lengthwise inside the door.
To be fair, before installing the magnets when I tried the 18650/adapter, I really had to give the mod a hard shake to get a rattle but little details like that bug me no end.
I think that 26 ga is a fat of a wire as perhaps one should use in the Wasp.@hariboholmes and @The Cromwell -
Thanks for the replies and suggestions, I will definitely give them consideration.
In the meantime, while I was offline from VU, and thinking about things and playing with Steam Engine's WIRE WIZARD tab...
On the Wasp Nano, I switched tack and instead of sub-ohm, went super-ohm, and put in a 26g kanthal, 9 spaced wraps on 3mm, which comes out to 1.20 Ohm and at 20w, the flavor really pops and the vape is nice and warm and juicy and not too hot, but chain vaping after 4-5 hits, it gets a bit much, so I take that as a sign to cool it for a few mins...
Right now this is a great and full flavor, and polar opposite to the 24g ss316L 0.25 Ohm. I have the coil in the Wasp Nano positioned such that only the lower third is visible from the air slots, such that the air flow will hit the bottom of the coil first, and in this position the top of the coil is also, just a hair above the top of the screw-deck...
I've been vaping on this for like 4 hrs now, and the freshly charged LG HG2 in the VT Inbox is only down to 50%, so this build is great not only for flavor, but also battery life....oh and also the juice consumption is way low too. Only about 10ml used so far...
I only run 2x700s in the squeezer.For 18650s I use the Luxotic or pico squeeze.
Thanks for the info here.^Just for anyone interested, I checked Vdrop on the golisi s35 21700 and vtc5a in a few mods and got the following results. Yes, I realize I should measure at the contacts, then the rsa post and subtract. Problem is, my wife is asleep and I don't have a third hand to fire the mod while holding the prongs. We'll have to settle for voltage at the post. Same vtc5a and rsa (krma) used on all.
First the vtc5a, krma, .39 ohm coil:
Garage mod mech, silver contacts, regular mm510. .34 Vdrop
Pico Squeeze. .36 Vdrop
Hugo Squeezer. .35 Vdrop
Hugo with 21700 Golisi. .29 Vdrop
To me the big surprise is the Pico and the Golisi. The Pico is hanging strong with the Garage mod which is pure mech with solid silver contacts. Same exact battery and rda.
The Golisi is amazing. Less drop under load than a vtc5a but has an additional 1100mah. Perhaps that extra 3mm diameter is giving those electrons more room to dance freely. Less internal resistance than a vtc5a or even the Sanyo 20700a. Nuff said.
cheers
Thanks for the info here.^
I did something similar, a few months ago that I can add my info as well, measuring at the battery contacts and then at the 510 when firing the mod. Using a freshly charged Samsung 25R5 (green) 18650 in the Druga and a freshly charged 5-leg iJoy 20700 in the Pulse BF (so as to avoid using the battery adapter).
After taking off the charger, I let the batteries rest for 15 min. Once inserted into the mod, the starting voltages measured on each were 4.19 for the Samsung and 4.18 for the iJoy.
I subtracted the 510 values from the batt contacts values and also measured each 5 times and then averaged the numbers:
Pulse BF: 0.31 Vdrop (appears to be brass or copper contacts on batt)
Druga Squonk: 0.11 Vdrop (appears to be silver plated copper contacts on batt)
Yep even if the pinch contacts are tight... the pivot point....Ouch. I guess that internal safety switch on the pulse must be the weak point. Nice result on the Druga.
I think that 26 ga is a fat of a wire as perhaps one should use in the Wasp.
I tried 25ga SS316 in there and liked the 26 better.
Thanks for all your help and advice.Yep Wasp beats Goon and Dead rabbit too.
Failing that maybe try a different RDA I personally didn't have much luck with the Wasp I found it to be really airy for its size which was great for high power builds but I struggled to get a decent hit from it with my low power builds.
Indeed, all to hell and back....Yep Wasp beats Goon and Dead rabbit too.
Yep Wasp beats Goon and Dead rabbit too.
I did try the DR SQ, it's a fail for my vaping taste....While I admit the Wasp hands down beats the Goon for flavor, I personally enjoy the draw on the Goon 22 over the Wasp big time
Never could bring myself to try the DR
Lots of air, lots of vapor. I've spent $20 on worse crap.
Congrats!The lotsa air kinda turned me away - I bought one but gave it away without ever building it
For $20 I just got a Druga 22 on top of one of those cheapo Augvape squonkers - I love the regular Druga and only got the kit so I could get my hands on a 22mm
Congrats!
Despite it being very cheap, the Druga 22 kit's squonk box hits very hard and has very little voltage drop (0.11v) as per my post above.
So you may want to keep it as a backup rather than toss it due to the cheapness.
I too grabbed the kit for the Druga 22, since you could not get the Druga 22 by itself.
One thing to note that if you want to run it in single coil mode, you should use the Ultem block for the empty side with no coil, because by doing so, when you squonk, the juice will also ride up along the 'wall' provided by the block and wet your coil from both the side opposite the airflow, as well as on top if you press-and-hold when you squeeze the bottle.
This means that you do not have to depend solely upon the capillary action of your wicking for juice getting into the center of your coil.
If find this a good benefit for the Druga 22, and wish more RDAs came with a block like this, not just for single-coil mode but also for squonking.
I just wish they would quit making RSAs that don't drain - the Druga and the Hadaly are about the only non-drainers I can stand
Stopped using the Entheon, Good LP and others because of it and had to modify the Flave 22 because they included a squonk pin that intentionally protruded up from the deck
get annoyed by this too (that all the juice gets sucked back down) and will likely leave mine this way for squonking.