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Squonkers are Bonkers

ben73

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Rda v1.0, the wicks still feed down into 2 holes where the juice squonks up into.

Edit: maybe not so much holes, more like side slots. Actually a very clever design.
Ah ok got ya, yeah 2 side juice wells

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
 

chohan

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
It sure helped, thanks. I vape mostly in TC so dry hits aren't as much of a concern.

Not so much the chance of dry hits, more the risk of over squonking. Once the juice comes above the wick slots, it has access to run across the little deck right under the coil to the air slots.
 

Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Anyone seen or tried the new GeekVape LOOP RDA?

Reminds me of the Medusa a little bit with such a deep juice well. Seems perfect for squonking while not leaking from the afc slots.

DJLSB has a video here:


Your thoughts?
 

snake94115

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Anyone seen or tried the new GeekVape LOOP RDA?

Reminds me of the Medusa a little bit with such a deep juice well. Seems perfect for squonking while not leaking from the afc slots.

DJLSB has a video here:


Your thoughts?
Maybe I've missed something here but I'm not sure how air is going to hit the coil at all.Considering the (Bed) area is so far above the airflow intake & the airflow will be heading in the wrong direction.Down towards the base away from the coil instead of up towards it.:crazy:

Oh and Daniel said it gets hot.Which instantly gets it a hard pass for me.
Cool to Warm is the way I fly.
 

Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Maybe I've missed something here but I'm not sure how air is going to hit the coil at all.Considering the (Bed) area is so far above the airflow intake & the airflow will be heading in the wrong direction.Down towards the base away from the coil instead of up towards it.:crazy:

Oh and Daniel said it gets hot.Which instantly gets it a hard pass for me.
Cool to Warm is the way I fly.
It seems to me that the airflow is directed below the coil itself and then when you inhale, it creates a high velocity airfoil-type of flow that goes around the coil from both sides, and then carries the vapors up thru the drip tip.

Morten Oen on YT has many videos demonstrating how air flow actually works, compared to how most of us 'think' how it works and using his video experiments as a reference is how I derived the above thinking.

See here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCMS4GxDHLPvXr5oQrthU60A/videos
 

snake94115

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
It seems to me that the airflow is directed below the coil itself and then when you inhale, it creates a high velocity airfoil-type of flow that goes around the coil from both sides, and then carries the vapors up thru the drip tip.

Morten Oen on YT has many videos demonstrating how air flow actually works, compared to how most of us 'think' how it works and using his video experiments as a reference is how I derived the above thinking.

See here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCMS4GxDHLPvXr5oQrthU60A/videos
This is the first time in a very long time I've actually been impressed by a YouTube reviewer.I'm going to give a call to my high-school auto-shop teacher and have him look at this dudes stuff.Yes I'm that impressed.
 

troydestroy

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Many Amazing Single Coil RSAs, 3 Pico Squeeze, other Squonk Mods, 2x700 batteries just put up on the trading Post... Just saying :p
78ced4dc9e8fca72acafbf8d71983de2.jpg
 

hariboholmes

Bronze Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Maybe I've missed something here but I'm not sure how air is going to hit the coil at all.Considering the (Bed) area is so far above the airflow intake & the airflow will be heading in the wrong direction.Down towards the base away from the coil instead of up towards it.:crazy:

Oh and Daniel said it gets hot.Which instantly gets it a hard pass for me.
Cool to Warm is the way I fly.
Surely it's completely down to the choice of coils and the wattage.

All of my RDAs can give me a hot vape with fused Clapton's and 90w and yet those very same RDAs can give an exceptionally cool vape with a 26awg single coil at 20w.

And why base your decision to buy on what some jumped up scummy shill reviewer that gets his stuff free says anyway ?

Sent from my Mi A1 using Tapatalk
 

The Cromwell

I am a BOT
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
It seems to me that the airflow is directed below the coil itself and then when you inhale, it creates a high velocity airfoil-type of flow that goes around the coil from both sides, and then carries the vapors up thru the drip tip.

Morten Oen on YT has many videos demonstrating how air flow actually works, compared to how most of us 'think' how it works and using his video experiments as a reference is how I derived the above thinking.

See here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCMS4GxDHLPvXr5oQrthU60A/videos
Airflow also depends a lot on how hard you suck on the atty.
The airflow will likely be different in the same atty with a slow easier suction than with a hard fast suction.
Especially with side or top airflow attys.
 

Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Airflow also depends a lot on how hard you suck on the atty.
The airflow will likely be different in the same atty with a slow easier suction than with a hard fast suction.
Especially with side or top airflow attys.
Yes, I agree.

The sweet spot seems to be where the air flow velocity meets the rate of the juice being vaporized (as per power to the coil, and the efficiency of your wicking) and combined with how much air is available/controlled via the opening in the afc...

All of this, in some combination also determines the punch of the flavor, the amount of clouds and the temp of the glorious vapors that exit from the drip tip...

Of course if you've been building a while this might be intuitive or obvious, but it helps me to think of it by spelling it out like this...
 

snake94115

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Surely it's completely down to the choice of coils and the wattage.
Not always.
As an example.I use 1.8ohm Clapton Coil-Heads in both my iJoy Elf & my Aspire Nautilus.Yet the Elf gives a slightly different vape than the Nautilus.The Nautilus is a slightly tighter draw but the Elf has a smidgen worth of better flavor.
Plus the Elf is easier to fill.
All of my RDAs can give me a hot vape with fused Clapton's and 90w and yet those very same RDAs can give an exceptionally cool vape with a 26awg single coil at 20w.
As a preference I like very thin wire as it heats up quicker.So I usually go with triple twisted coils with very thin wire.Which gives the coil more mass and a better surface area without cutting down on the ramp up time.I also prefer Ni80 now thanks to @So619Cal
And why base your decision to buy on what some jumped up scummy shill reviewer that gets his stuff free says anyway ?
I'm going to refrain from answering that.
I've already got enough haters here.
 

snake94115

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Yes, I agree.

The sweet spot seems to be where the air flow velocity meets the rate of the juice being vaporized (as per power to the coil, and the efficiency of your wicking) and combined with how much air is available/controlled via the opening in the afc...

All of this, in some combination also determines the punch of the flavor, the amount of clouds and the temp of the glorious vapors that exit from the drip tip...

Of course if you've been building a while this might be intuitive or obvious, but it helps me to think of it by spelling it out like this...
Yep.
2+2=4 but 2 and 2 are 22 every damn time.
 

MrMeowgi

The Vapin' Drummer
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Nothing new in the market but I'm liking this Athena mod. Nice and tiny. Just a little bigger than the squeeze. And all those squeeze mods in the hardware section. Man I wish I wasn't broke till next week.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
656e55645f6990dd256de24536fc9f95.jpg
 

snake94115

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Looking for a good little MTL RDA then check out the review below.


@BrewBear you might actually like this 1 not sure it would be restrictive enough for @AndriaD though.But it might be something she might at least look into.
 

Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
YIPPEE!!! :bingo:

Vapemail today- that used Inbox v3 and sealed/new Wasp Nano arrived today!!! :hearts:

The Inbox is in mint condition and seems to work perfectly in wattage mode. I have updated my settings and material profiles via Escribe and am running the case analyzer right now, waiting for it to finish.

However, I put in a simple 24g ss316L 8-spaced-wraps on 3mm build in the Wasp Nano which comes out to 0.48 Ohms, and with the top of the coil level with the top of the 'clamp deck' I am finding that flavor is just 'meh'...and much past 28w it's just too hot and no flavor, but this is slightly improved with a short drip tip...

Any suggestions on simple round wire, or twisted builds for the Wasp Nano?

I dont want to run any clapton or fancy builds on account of how quickly they tend to guzzle juice compared to simpler builds.

However, using Native Wicks Platinum Blend cotton, and after squonking to flood the wicks, I am in fact getting about 20 hits before the cotton is completely dry, which is even better than I was getting on the Goon v1, so I am happy about that.
 

hariboholmes

Bronze Contributor
Member For 2 Years
YIPPEE!!! :bingo:

Vapemail today- that used Inbox v3 and sealed/new Wasp Nano arrived today!!! s:

The Inbox is in mint condition and seems to work perfectly in wattage mode. I have updated my settings and material profiles via Escribe and am running the case analyzer right now, waiting for it to finish.

However, I put in a simple 24g ss316L 8-spaced-wraps on 3mm build in the Wasp Nano which comes out to 0.48 Ohms, and with the top of the coil level with the top of the 'clamp deck' I am finding that flavor is just 'meh'...and much past 28w it's just too hot and no flavor, but this is slightly improved with a short drip tip...

Any suggestions on simple round wire, or twisted builds for the Wasp Nano?

I dont want to run any clapton or fancy builds on account of how quickly they tend to guzzle juice compared to simpler builds.

However, using Native Wicks Platinum Blend cotton, and after squonking to flood the wicks, I am in fact getting about 20 hits before the cotton is completely dry, which is even better than I was getting on the Goon v1, so I am happy about that.
Try shutting down the airflow a bit, I use a similar coil (6 wrap Ni80 24awg) in single coil RDAs and get really great flavour on a mech but I do shut down the air flow quite a bit to make the vapor dense.

You could also give flat wire a try some people say that it gives better flavour due to increased surface area and it heats really quickly.

Failing that maybe try a different RDA I personally didn't have much luck with the Wasp I found it to be really airy for its size which was great for high power builds but I struggled to get a decent hit from it with my low power builds.

Sent from my Mi A1 using Tapatalk
 

The Cromwell

I am a BOT
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
YIPPEE!!! :bingo:

Vapemail today- that used Inbox v3 and sealed/new Wasp Nano arrived today!!! :hearts:

The Inbox is in mint condition and seems to work perfectly in wattage mode. I have updated my settings and material profiles via Escribe and am running the case analyzer right now, waiting for it to finish.

However, I put in a simple 24g ss316L 8-spaced-wraps on 3mm build in the Wasp Nano which comes out to 0.48 Ohms, and with the top of the coil level with the top of the 'clamp deck' I am finding that flavor is just 'meh'...and much past 28w it's just too hot and no flavor, but this is slightly improved with a short drip tip...

Any suggestions on simple round wire, or twisted builds for the Wasp Nano?

I dont want to run any clapton or fancy builds on account of how quickly they tend to guzzle juice compared to simpler builds.

However, using Native Wicks Platinum Blend cotton, and after squonking to flood the wicks, I am in fact getting about 20 hits before the cotton is completely dry, which is even better than I was getting on the Goon v1, so I am happy about that.

I use 3mm 10 wrap 26ga SS316L parallel coils. just very slightly spaced. Fits in there perfectly and vapes nice. I put the bottom of the coil even with the bottom of the air holes. .34 is what mine work out to.
Vapes nice on the pico or I vape at around 30W on regulated.

And yes I use a funnel bore open 510 drip tip. The ones that Lucy recommended above.

I was kinda iffy on the Wasp till I stuck a drip tip in it.
 

Zaxxaz

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Anyone with a Hugo Squeezer?
Do those 3 empty magnet holes inside the door drive you nuts?

Fear not, these cheap cylinder magnets from FT are a perfect fit:

View attachment 107599

https://m.fasttech.com/p/5534901

$1.89 for a 50 pack. Yes, I have extras :D. Drop me a pm if you need a few.

cheers

I got a squeezer,been wanting to do that to stop the battery rattle.Since your offering,you could send a few my way.Sending PM. :bingo:
 

Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
@hariboholmes and @The Cromwell -

Thanks for the replies and suggestions, I will definitely give them consideration.

In the meantime, while I was offline from VU, and thinking about things and playing with Steam Engine's WIRE WIZARD tab...

On the Wasp Nano, I switched tack and instead of sub-ohm, went super-ohm, and put in a 26g kanthal, 9 spaced wraps on 3mm, which comes out to 1.20 Ohm and at 20w, the flavor really pops and the vape is nice and warm and juicy and not too hot, but chain vaping after 4-5 hits, it gets a bit much, so I take that as a sign to cool it for a few mins...

Right now this is a great and full flavor, and polar opposite to the 24g ss316L 0.25 Ohm. I have the coil in the Wasp Nano positioned such that only the lower third is visible from the air slots, such that the air flow will hit the bottom of the coil first, and in this position the top of the coil is also, just a hair above the top of the screw-deck...

I've been vaping on this for like 4 hrs now, and the freshly charged LG HG2 in the VT Inbox is only down to 50%, so this build is great not only for flavor, but also battery life....oh and also the juice consumption is way low too. Only about 10ml used so far...
:stars2:
 

chohan

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I got a squeezer,been wanting to do that to stop the battery rattle.Since your offering,you could send a few my way.Sending PM. :bingo:

Sure thing. Just keep in mind this is geared more toward running a 20700 or 21700. The plastic adapter sleeve on the 18650 prevents the magets from sticking so you're better off using a thin strip of weather striping stuck lengthwise inside the door.

To be fair, before installing the magnets when I tried the 18650/adapter, I really had to give the mod a hard shake to get a rattle but little details like that bug me no end.
 

chohan

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Just for anyone interested, I checked Vdrop on the golisi s35 21700 and vtc5a in a few mods and got the following results. Yes, I realize I should measure at the contacts, then the rsa post and subtract. Problem is, my wife is asleep and I don't have a third hand to fire the mod while holding the prongs. We'll have to settle for voltage at the post. Same vtc5a and rsa (krma) used on all.

First the vtc5a, krma, .39 ohm coil:

Garage mod mech, silver contacts, regular mm510. .34 Vdrop

Pico Squeeze. .36 Vdrop

Hugo Squeezer. .35 Vdrop

Hugo with 21700 Golisi. .29 Vdrop

To me the big surprise is the Pico and the Golisi. The Pico is hanging strong with the Garage mod which is pure mech with solid silver contacts. Same exact battery and rda.

The Golisi is amazing. Less drop under load than a vtc5a but has an additional 1100mah. Perhaps that extra 3mm diameter is giving those electrons more room to dance freely. Less internal resistance than a vtc5a or even the Sanyo 20700a. Nuff said.

cheers
 

Zaxxaz

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Sure thing. Just keep in mind this is geared more toward running a 20700 or 21700. The plastic adapter sleeve on the 18650 prevents the magets from sticking so you're better off using a thin strip of weather striping stuck lengthwise inside the door.

To be fair, before installing the magnets when I tried the 18650/adapter, I really had to give the mod a hard shake to get a rattle but little details like that bug me no end.
I only run 2x700s in the squeezer.For 18650s I use the Luxotic or pico squeeze.
 

The Cromwell

I am a BOT
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
@hariboholmes and @The Cromwell -

Thanks for the replies and suggestions, I will definitely give them consideration.

In the meantime, while I was offline from VU, and thinking about things and playing with Steam Engine's WIRE WIZARD tab...

On the Wasp Nano, I switched tack and instead of sub-ohm, went super-ohm, and put in a 26g kanthal, 9 spaced wraps on 3mm, which comes out to 1.20 Ohm and at 20w, the flavor really pops and the vape is nice and warm and juicy and not too hot, but chain vaping after 4-5 hits, it gets a bit much, so I take that as a sign to cool it for a few mins...

Right now this is a great and full flavor, and polar opposite to the 24g ss316L 0.25 Ohm. I have the coil in the Wasp Nano positioned such that only the lower third is visible from the air slots, such that the air flow will hit the bottom of the coil first, and in this position the top of the coil is also, just a hair above the top of the screw-deck...

I've been vaping on this for like 4 hrs now, and the freshly charged LG HG2 in the VT Inbox is only down to 50%, so this build is great not only for flavor, but also battery life....oh and also the juice consumption is way low too. Only about 10ml used so far...
:stars2:
I think that 26 ga is a fat of a wire as perhaps one should use in the Wasp.
I tried 25ga SS316 in there and liked the 26 better.
 

Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Just for anyone interested, I checked Vdrop on the golisi s35 21700 and vtc5a in a few mods and got the following results. Yes, I realize I should measure at the contacts, then the rsa post and subtract. Problem is, my wife is asleep and I don't have a third hand to fire the mod while holding the prongs. We'll have to settle for voltage at the post. Same vtc5a and rsa (krma) used on all.

First the vtc5a, krma, .39 ohm coil:

Garage mod mech, silver contacts, regular mm510. .34 Vdrop

Pico Squeeze. .36 Vdrop

Hugo Squeezer. .35 Vdrop

Hugo with 21700 Golisi. .29 Vdrop

To me the big surprise is the Pico and the Golisi. The Pico is hanging strong with the Garage mod which is pure mech with solid silver contacts. Same exact battery and rda.

The Golisi is amazing. Less drop under load than a vtc5a but has an additional 1100mah. Perhaps that extra 3mm diameter is giving those electrons more room to dance freely. Less internal resistance than a vtc5a or even the Sanyo 20700a. Nuff said.

cheers
Thanks for the info here.^

I did something similar, a few months ago that I can add my info as well, measuring at the battery contacts and then at the 510 when firing the mod. Using a freshly charged Samsung 25R5 (green) 18650 in the Druga and a freshly charged 5-leg iJoy 20700 in the Pulse BF (so as to avoid using the battery adapter).

After taking off the charger, I let the batteries rest for 15 min. Once inserted into the mod, the starting voltages measured on each were 4.19 for the Samsung and 4.18 for the iJoy.

I subtracted the 510 values from the batt contacts values and also measured each 5 times and then averaged the numbers:

Pulse BF: 0.31 Vdrop (appears to be brass or copper contacts on batt)

Druga Squonk: 0.11 Vdrop (appears to be silver plated copper contacts on batt)
 

chohan

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Thanks for the info here.^

I did something similar, a few months ago that I can add my info as well, measuring at the battery contacts and then at the 510 when firing the mod. Using a freshly charged Samsung 25R5 (green) 18650 in the Druga and a freshly charged 5-leg iJoy 20700 in the Pulse BF (so as to avoid using the battery adapter).

After taking off the charger, I let the batteries rest for 15 min. Once inserted into the mod, the starting voltages measured on each were 4.19 for the Samsung and 4.18 for the iJoy.

I subtracted the 510 values from the batt contacts values and also measured each 5 times and then averaged the numbers:

Pulse BF: 0.31 Vdrop (appears to be brass or copper contacts on batt)

Druga Squonk: 0.11 Vdrop (appears to be silver plated copper contacts on batt)

Ouch. I guess that internal safety switch on the pulse must be the weak point. Nice result on the Druga.
 

Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
I think that 26 ga is a fat of a wire as perhaps one should use in the Wasp.
I tried 25ga SS316 in there and liked the 26 better.

Thanks for the suggestions. I dont like to use wires thinner than 26g much because of how they deform when wicking since the are so soft compared to 26g and 24g.

The thinner wires than 26g I usually only use for simple 2x or 3x twisted wires, or single-core claptons, and I've had great success for flavor and can easily fog a room with most of my RDAs with a single-24g-core/36g-wrap SS316L 5-wraps on 3mm coil, but it eats juice like crazy.

It's funny to me that I started building with only 24g Kanthal and 25g Kanthal, and then after about 6 months got into TC and was exclusively using SS316 and SS316L for almost 18 months on everything, and since SS can be used in wattage mode as well, I gave up on using Kanthal for a long time...

Only recently when I got my SXK Billet Box DNA60 clone, did I start using the 26g Kanthal again, primarily for a 1.11 super-ohm build to extend battery life, but the flavor improved dramatically for me as well.

So I figured why not pretend that the Wasp Nano is like the Kanger/Kayfun-style RBA head and try a similar build.

It works very nice. The Wasp Nano is like 1/3 the size of the Goon v1, but for the flavor now, the Wasp Nano beats the Goon by a wide margin for me. It squonks very well too. :)
 

Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Failing that maybe try a different RDA I personally didn't have much luck with the Wasp I found it to be really airy for its size which was great for high power builds but I struggled to get a decent hit from it with my low power builds.

I have a silver-colored Nudge 22 on the way from slowtech, and tracking shows delivery expected for Mon Apr 2.

So I am looking forward to trying that, and will be able to compare and contrast betw that, the Wasp Nano, a Pulse 22, Druga 22, Goon v1 and Velocity v1, as those are all of my RDAs and I have squonk pins for all too.

It's neat to see that the Wasp Nano atop the Inbox is not that much taller, thicker or heavier than my SXK BB DNA60 clone.

Reports I've seen say that the top cap of the Nudge 22 runs pretty hot, but if I keep towards 1+ Ohm builds and watts ~20-22 watts I am hoping that this excessive heat build up is minimized. The Wasp gets very warm, but not quite hot, and the flavor and vapor is really nice how I like it with the afc closed about half-way. It's enough resistance for me, whereas wide-open there's a lot less flavor and the vapors are not as dense.
 

RSZ1

Bronze Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
I was pleasantly surprised with the Dead Rabbit. I really didn't think I would like it as much as I do. Can't vape it all day. It's more of a take a couple hits off of it a couple times a day. The dual coils suck the juice back and battery life is horrible. Lots of air, lots of vapor. I've spent $20 on worse crap. :giggle:
 

JuicyLucy

My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
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Lots of air, lots of vapor. I've spent $20 on worse crap.

The lotsa air kinda turned me away - I bought one but gave it away without ever building it

For $20 I just got a Druga 22 on top of one of those cheapo Augvape squonkers - I love the regular Druga and only got the kit so I could get my hands on a 22mm :p
 

Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
The lotsa air kinda turned me away - I bought one but gave it away without ever building it

For $20 I just got a Druga 22 on top of one of those cheapo Augvape squonkers - I love the regular Druga and only got the kit so I could get my hands on a 22mm :p
Congrats!

Despite it being very cheap, the Druga 22 kit's squonk box hits very hard and has very little voltage drop (0.11v) as per my post above.

So you may want to keep it as a backup rather than toss it due to the cheapness.

I too grabbed the kit for the Druga 22, since you could not get the Druga 22 by itself.

One thing to note that if you want to run it in single coil mode, you should use the Ultem block for the empty side with no coil, because by doing so, when you squonk, the juice will also ride up along the 'wall' provided by the block and wet your coil from both the side opposite the airflow, as well as on top if you press-and-hold when you squeeze the bottle.

This means that you do not have to depend solely upon the capillary action of your wicking for juice getting into the center of your coil.

I find this a good benefit for the Druga 22, and wish more RDAs came with a block like this, not just for single-coil mode but also for how it aids in squonking.
 

JuicyLucy

My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
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Congrats!

Despite it being very cheap, the Druga 22 kit's squonk box hits very hard and has very little voltage drop (0.11v) as per my post above.

So you may want to keep it as a backup rather than toss it due to the cheapness.

I too grabbed the kit for the Druga 22, since you could not get the Druga 22 by itself.

One thing to note that if you want to run it in single coil mode, you should use the Ultem block for the empty side with no coil, because by doing so, when you squonk, the juice will also ride up along the 'wall' provided by the block and wet your coil from both the side opposite the airflow, as well as on top if you press-and-hold when you squeeze the bottle.

This means that you do not have to depend solely upon the capillary action of your wicking for juice getting into the center of your coil.

If find this a good benefit for the Druga 22, and wish more RDAs came with a block like this, not just for single-coil mode but also for squonking.

I just wish they would quit making RSAs that don't drain - the Druga and the Hadaly are about the only non-drainers I can stand

Stopped using the Entheon, Good LP and others because of it and had to modify the Flave 22 because they included a squonk pin that intentionally protruded up from the deck :confused:
 

Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
I just wish they would quit making RSAs that don't drain - the Druga and the Hadaly are about the only non-drainers I can stand

Stopped using the Entheon, Good LP and others because of it and had to modify the Flave 22 because they included a squonk pin that intentionally protruded up from the deck :confused:

The M2.5 BF pins I got from ModMaker (we discussed previously) fit in the Druga 22's 510 thread, and unmodified they will protrude up from the deck about 3.5mm, and thus leave some juice in the well, similar to if you have put in about 15 drops from a standard unicorn bottle if you were using it as a dripper..

I get annoyed by this too (that all the juice gets sucked back down) and will likely leave mine this way for squonking.

EDIT - upon re-reading your post, I may be misunderstanding you - do you want all the juice to drain, or have some juice stay in the well?
 

JuicyLucy

My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
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Member For 5 Years
get annoyed by this too (that all the juice gets sucked back down) and will likely leave mine this way for squonking.

I've been modifying RDAs to squonk for over three years - and the file is your friend when it comes to squonkifying anything

I like and expect the juice to go back down the bottle - that used to be one of the defining factors/benefits of squonking. Young squonkers these days act like its a hassle to squeeze the bottle:giggle:
 

jcash74

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Not sure what's happened here.... I don't seem to enjoy my dual coil .16Ω builds as much anymore. I seem to be leaning towards the hadeon on my s21 much, much more. It has a .26Ω single coil and I'm really enjoying it! The flavor seems just a little muted, however that could just be my juice (diy) or maybe the coils a little off. I haven't had the RDA that long so much more experimenting to be done. I am still using the hadaly as well, similar build on a 67 neo. I am just loving these little mechs! I thought mechs were more for low ohm builds originally. I now enjoy them more than the regulated mods.


Sorry for the rant but I just find it amazing how my vape styles changed dramatically during the vape journey. I remember using some POS stick battery and a leaky tank and giving up on vaping. I tried again and went through some tanks and mods until finally getting a billet box with a 1.6Ω coil and thinking it was bliss. Then I just had to try sub-ohm tanks and rdas and well the rest is history.
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