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Squonkers are Bonkers

jasonandsarah

Gold Contributor
Member For 3 Years
You get my point though, I'd give it a try just for the hell of it!
Nope I wouldn't try that. Maybe if I decide to get some of the new resin for my sla printer but pla and abs aren't wonderful with heat. Maybe someone tootle puffing. But my caps get pretty hot most of the time.
I heard NASA(probably lots of other places as well) have newer 3d printers capable of printing in ultem! Kinda cool if you ask me, that mean 2-3 years from now it'll be at least semi affordable for the public.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Zhurrie

Member For 1 Year
Not sure if I understand the idea, but I do slip spare 510 orings OVER the 510 on my RDA's to keep the squonk-pipeline sealed away from the mod surface.

Yep, that is basically what I was asking. I wasn't sure how it would actually work once everything is tightened. I had two ideas, one where I just extend the pin by 1mm and drop it at the bottom or effectively the same but at the top. Where do you land yours?
 

Zhurrie

Member For 1 Year
Nope I wouldn't try that. Maybe if I decide to get some of the new resin for my sla printer but pla and abs aren't wonderful with heat. Maybe someone tootle puffing. But my caps get pretty hot most of the time.
I heard NASA(probably lots of other places as well) have newer 3d printers capable of printing in ultem! Kinda cool if you ask me, that mean 2-3 years from now it'll be at least semi affordable for the public.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

It isn't hard to print in Thermax, nylon (PA66), or other high-temp (HT) filaments with an E3d V6 as-is. Even Ultem is not difficult, I use an E3D V6 for that too, you just have to use a thermocouple instead of a thermistor. It is super cheap right now to do on commodity hardware, NASA not necessary! :)
 

PoppaVic

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Yep, that is basically what I was asking. I wasn't sure how it would actually work once everything is tightened. I had two ideas, one where I just extend the pin by 1mm and drop it at the bottom or effectively the same but at the top. Where do you land yours?
I stick the o-ring up above all the threads and just screw it down into mods 510. I get an airgap under atty, but I don't much care.. I'd be happier with a ring of gasket-material, of course, but - "make-do" works out fine for me.
 

Train

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
I think @PoppaVic and I do the same thing - not an o-ring IN the 510, but AROUND it, squished by the atty.
I only do this on certain setups - sometimes when it's had a bit of a seep before, and sometimes when it won't tighten fully flush with the top of the mod anyway...

Yep, that is basically what I was asking. I wasn't sure how it would actually work once everything is tightened. I had two ideas, one where I just extend the pin by 1mm and drop it at the bottom or effectively the same but at the top. Where do you land yours?
I stick the o-ring up above all the threads and just screw it down into mods 510. I get an airgap under atty, but I don't much care.. I'd be happier with a ring of gasket-material, of course, but - "make-do" works out fine for me.
 

JuicyLucy

My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
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Diamond Contributor
ECF Refugee
VU Challenge Team
Member For 5 Years
I ended up buying two more Picos today (and another Wasp). They really are exceptional and I've just begun making stabilized wood/resin blanks so I can use most of the components in a custom when I get there. I was bummed that they were sold out of white so I went silver.

I have a question for fellow squonkers and squonkettes: It seems like a 2mm ID (1mm Line Dimension) O-Ring could be used to help prevent leaks between the mod and RSA inside of the 510. Has anyone tried this? Any success?

I've never had a problem with leaking - so never tried or thought of doing that
 

Zhurrie

Member For 1 Year
I've never had a problem with leaking - so never tried or thought of doing that

I don't really have a leaking problem, but I'm a bit of a perfectionist and with the way even spring loaded 510's are designed it is always just metal to metal contact/seal so there will always be a little juice in the 510. I'll do some experimenting and see what I can devise.
 

The Cromwell

I am a BOT
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I don't really have a leaking problem, but I'm a bit of a perfectionist and with the way even spring loaded 510's are designed it is always just metal to metal contact/seal so there will always be a little juice in the 510. I'll do some experimenting and see what I can devise.
The metal to metal contact is necessary to get power to the atomizer.
And yes it will always have some juice in it.
 

Zhurrie

Member For 1 Year
The metal to metal contact is necessary to get power to the atomizer.
And yes it will always have some juice in it.

Yes, the center pin is the positive. By backing out the center pin a tiny bit, that accounts for the thickness of the seal. My aim is for a seal at the bottom so that there is no loss or leak at all. A seal at the top is fine, some 510 connectors even have a gasket, but I'd like to prevent any leaking. I can say that hex squonk pins perform better than slotted ones even without a seal. The metal to metal contact is fine, but a seal around that point is better.
 

PoppaVic

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I'd agree - I prefer the hex-ended pin, but yes: it'd be nice if there was a silicone seal around the metal-to-metal. The gbox was always aswamp around the atty and top of mod - and not from oversquonking, and only marginally from condensation.

I have to suspect a percentage of ejuice works its way up and around the threads under the atty. And, this is why I first thought of a faucet washer, but it's about 2-3 too thick. The orings are the right thickness, but I'd like something like a 14-18, (even 22mm), disk of automotive gasket with a centerpunched 510 hole: protects mod, and juice stays in the shaft it belongs in.
 

Lyspaere

Member For 4 Years
I read about the battery door issues. Cheap enough for me to tinker with and see if I can find a fix for it.


Carpe Nidor
I've had an open ticket with CoV since February for the Wraith I bought. I didn't notice an issue w/ the battery door until the three day vendor warranty period was up (one day *facepalm*), and so far CoV has replied once on Facebook (February) and that's it. I add to the comments on the ticket in the CoV website every few weeks, but I've given up hope that they're going to do anything about their faulty product. I'll never buy CoV again.

Tapatalked from my Note8
 

fartbubble

Silver Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
After a couple more days I've concluded that the tobhino is here to stay! It's pretty great if I must say sooo myself. The more I do slight adjustments the better it gets. The way the af is set up you can cover your coil completly over squonking and still no leaking.(wish I remembered who was looking for this) also the things tiny! I mean it still kinda surprises me when I look at it because I knew it was small but it's really small lol. But can still hold a nice sized coil witch is nice.
The only person I don't think will like it is @JuicyLucy and that's only because the squonk hole is slightly raised. So you only get about 90% suck back. To me that's fine because Im normally running coils in the .17-.25 range so 1-2 puffs and the wicks have already emptied the juice well.
All in all it performs as good as any atty I currently own. Thanks @So619Cal your a great dude and an even better bonker! Anytime you need anything please don't hesitate to ask!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


This got me to order one. And for the price ($22.59 at ejuices.com), fuck it, why not
 

jasonandsarah

Gold Contributor
Member For 3 Years
It isn't hard to print in Thermax, nylon (PA66), or other high-temp (HT) filaments with an E3d V6 as-is. Even Ultem is not difficult, I use an E3D V6 for that too, you just have to use a thermocouple instead of a thermistor. It is super cheap right now to do on commodity hardware, NASA not necessary! :)
I know little about your printer (E3d) but the little I just read said the hot end on a E3d v6 can handle around 300°c and peak (ultem) needs around 430°c? I'm not saying your wrong I'd just like to know more info.
I just looked up some ultem *pei filaments and it looks like some can print from 380°c and up, but that's still a great deal above the 300°c I read the E3d v6 can do.
Like I said don't take any of this as argumentative or anything Im still a novice when it comes to 3d printing so I don't claim to know everything by any means. It's very possibly I was reading an older copy of one of the 3d printing magazines and didn't realize it. It was new news to me! Lol
I do want to start using nylon in that near future but abs gave me so many warping problems I've been scared to try any other high temp filaments.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Zhurrie

Member For 1 Year
I know little about your printer (E3d) but the little I just read said the hot end on a E3d v6 can handle around 300°c and peak (ultem) needs around 430°c? I'm not saying your wrong I'd just like to know more info.
I just looked up some ultem *pei filaments and it looks like some can print from 380°c and up, but that's still a great deal above the 300°c I read the E3d v6 can do.
Like I said don't take any of this as argumentative or anything Im still a novice when it comes to 3d printing so I don't claim to know everything by any means. It's very possibly I was reading an older copy of one of the 3d printing magazines and didn't realize it. It was new news to me! Lol
I do want to start using nylon in that near future but abs gave me so many warping problems I've been scared to try any other high temp filaments.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

All good here, no worries. I design and build 3D printers and have for many years now, I'm happy to answer any questions. (maybe in another thread to keep things from going too far OT here)

So the E3D v6 is just the hot end. The part that actually melts the filament. The E3D is fairly unique in that it is an all-metal hot end with close to a perfect design as far as the heat break and thermal capabilities. The 300c number you are seeing is for the thermistor it comes with, and that is hot enough to do all of the HT filaments I mentioned (Thermax, HT Pro, PA66/Nylon, etc.). Ultem (there are a few different types in filament form) starts around 330c and usually up to 360c-380c. Most all-metal hot ends can do that, but most will require a thermocouple instead of the standard thermistor in the hot end. I prefer the PT100 for the E3D, it only costs ~$30 and is the sensor and amplifier board complete in a kit. With that you can go to 400c with no problems. It isn't a big deal and very easy to do.

The thing you want to look at is the glass transition temp rating (Tg) of any filament. Most of these are going to get you into the ~200c range which is plenty. Even hitting or exceeding that temp isn't a massive deal in real-world scenarios, just not sustaining those temps for long periods of time which you'd have bigger problems than your chosen material at that point! :) I could help you with your ABS woes if you'd like, let me know, I'll create a 3D printing thread in an OT section of VU.
 

Le Furet

VU Donator
Silver Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Happy Monday Bonkz!
Starting the week off right... squonking (!) with an old buddy...Tiny Little F#ckr in the house!
..and trying out those SXK Hadeon caps on my remaining authentic Entheon, with the Signature Tip it’s giving Le Supersonic a run for da money...
Don’t tell the Frenchies I said so.
:giggle:

5852B329-373E-4DC8-8FBE-1C61BB186DA1.jpeg


Enjoy your day Squeeples!
:hug:

Edit: @Wtmke1 ... If you want the pin from this one, can send it to ya later in the week when I’m done playing
; )
 
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MrMeowgi

The Vapin' Drummer
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Happy Monday Bonkz!
Starting the week off right... squonking (!) with an old buddy...Tiny Little F#ckr in the house!
..and trying out those SXK Hadeon caps on my remaining authentic Entheon, with the Signature Tip it’s giving Le Supersonic a run for da money...
Don’t tell the Frenchies I said so.
:giggle:

View attachment 110400


Enjoy your day Squeeples!
:hug:

Edit: @Wtmke1 ... If you want the pin from this one, can send it to ya later in the week when I’m done playing
; )
It's all good man. I got the one in the mail and everything is great. I appreciate it though.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 

TrollDragon

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
I've had an open ticket with CoV since February for the Wraith I bought. I didn't notice an issue w/ the battery door until the three day vendor warranty period was up (one day *facepalm*), and so far CoV has replied once on Facebook (February) and that's it. I add to the comments on the ticket in the CoV website every few weeks, but I've given up hope that they're going to do anything about their faulty product. I'll never buy CoV again.

Tapatalked from my Note8
The rubber coating started to peel off my Wraith the first week, CoV quality has been going steadily down hill for a while now.

Sold the Wraith off the other day for $20CAD to a guy.... That's like $10USD :giggle:
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Now this is some fucked up shit, it must be machined out of a single block of Unobtanium... :giggle:

View attachment 110411

That it is... Saw one go for $3200 with all its crazy bits and bobs... :crazy: It's a fucking RDA lol

More power to those that have that type of disposable income, but come on now...its a RDA lol

Its similar to these limited edition KRMAs...24k gold plated for $450 :facepalm: Seems once a week they are pimping those out lol

or the dude that Gold plates Hadaly bits and sells them for $250+


I'd love to have an authentic NarDa, but I will not spend $450+ on one...nope...even if the person hand delivered it with a hooker, nope.
 

The Cromwell

I am a BOT
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
That it is... Saw one go for $3200 with all its crazy bits and bobs... :crazy: It's a fucking RDA lol

More power to those that have that type of disposable income, but come on now...its a RDA lol

Its similar to these limited edition KRMAs...24k gold plated for $450 :facepalm: Seems once a week they are pimping those out lol

or the dude that Gold plates Hadaly bits and sells them for $250+


I'd love to have an authentic NarDa, but I will not spend $450+ on one...nope...even if the person hand delivered it with a hooker, nope.
Yep Svoemesto (sp?) is pimping out existing tanks with gold now.
 

TrollDragon

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
That it is... Saw one go for $3200 with all its crazy bits and bobs... :crazy: It's a fucking RDA lol

More power to those that have that type of disposable income, but come on now...its a RDA lol

Its similar to these limited edition KRMAs...24k gold plated for $450 :facepalm: Seems once a week they are pimping those out lol

or the dude that Gold plates Hadaly bits and sells them for $250+


I'd love to have an authentic NarDa, but I will not spend $450+ on one...nope...even if the person hand delivered it with a hooker, nope.
I can't even begin to imagine that kind of disposable income.
 

TrollDragon

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
Yep Svoemesto (sp?) is pimping out existing tanks with gold now.
The High noon Prime with SteamTuners wave tank.
Kayfun.png

I do like SteamTuners tanks.
1W0Comql.jpg
 

Adonis

Member For 1 Year
Sorry if it's already been asked on here but anyone try the solo rda? You can can get one on FT with an s rabbit box ( which looks like it could be remade because not sure on the internals) for £12. Looking for a small solid black rda and sorry to say my budget doesn't stretch to authentics :(
 

DogMan

VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Sorry if it's already been asked on here but anyone try the solo rda? You can can get one on FT with an s rabbit box ( which looks like it could be remade because not sure on the internals) for £12. Looking for a small solid black rda and sorry to say my budget doesn't stretch to authentics :(

i don't have one, but i know that attie was all rage for a month or so. So can't be too bad
 

Zhurrie

Member For 1 Year
Sorry if it's already been asked on here but anyone try the solo rda? You can can get one on FT with an s rabbit box ( which looks like it could be remade because not sure on the internals) for £12. Looking for a small solid black rda and sorry to say my budget doesn't stretch to authentics :(

I saw them and looked into it, the RDA seems passable maybe not top tier but nothing stood out as inherently bad in the design to me. The mod was a bit of a different story. I don't believe the 510 is spring loaded and the design of the button/firing mechanism didn't do much for me. Looks like you would have to fiddle with it and do some modifications. I also think the top of the 510 has a bunch of cut-outs which look like a good chance for leakage. If you don't need the mod, your £12 would be better spent on a Wasp Nano IMO. If you want a kit for £12, I don't think there are many competitors at that price.
 

Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
He picked the bottom of the barrel to team up with... Dovpo's 510's were garbage on every single mod they made. I thought they went out of business long ago, them and Cloupor.

Dovpo is still kicking. My Dovpo M/VV has been going strong 9 months now no issues.

IIRC Cloupor rebranded themselves as Smoant, and there's tons of love and circle-jerking about them over on reddit. I refuse to buy-in to the hype and I will not be owning any of their products.
 

jcash74

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Anyone that has a 3D printer. Can someone make some Grateful Dead plates for the original vtinbox? I was hoping for the steal your face design and can send the image to whomever is able to do this. I will obviously pay you for your time.
d447d8de2a2f489c406f8581d0f03f4f.jpg
 

The Cromwell

I am a BOT
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Dovpo is still kicking. My Dovpo M/VV has been going strong 9 months now no issues.

IIRC Cloupor rebranded themselves as Smoant, and there's tons of love and circle-jerking about them over on reddit. I refuse to buy-in to the hype and I will not be owning any of their products.
I had a Dovpo Punisher. did not use it much and gave it to a grandson.
worked ok though.
But it was black....
 

Mykreign

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
So I bought some pure silver strips 1/2" wide that won't work for me. Anyone interested?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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