With mod's like the Minivolt, Alphafox Minibolt, Target Mini and so on...
There's a evidently a serious demand for stealthy mini mods
Most people wouldnt run these miniature mods at their maximum due to battery life constraints
And i personally use them around 15-25 watts...
I'm rocking a Subtank Mini with a 26 gauge kanthal, wrapped 5 times on a 2.5mm bit and it's been quite okay on my Minivolt so far..... but flavor leaves much to be desired
I've been looking to top out my Minivolt with a true RTA and not just a subohm tank with an RBA section...
I've looked at the Doggystyle tanks, Kayfun V5 clones and also the Serpent Mini and Alto and i cant really decide on which would give me the tighthest DL i could have (borderline MTL) with serious amounts of heat
This thread was made to discuss;
- Battery life
- Maximizing flavor (heat, density and etc)
- What nic levels are you using? (With lower amounts of vapour produced using low wattage and low mass coils.. predictably a higher MG would be needed to get the same buzz as you would lower MG on a crazier build)
(What affects flavor and heat?)
To begin with, i've been wondering what RTA's or RDA's are on your mini mods,
I find that for flavour it's always about the ratio of air to the volume of vapour that gets you a lighter or denser mouthfeel and flavor,
We are really limited on power so i personally find that it's better to go about it the other way around and tighten our airflow to get less air and more vapor (denser ratio) for better flavor even if it changes the inhale sensation
And i've also found that a smaller build works better in a smaller chamber because there's simply less empty space (more vapour in the chamber) which helps for maintaining heat (due to less dormant air) and helps concentrate the airspeed and velocity of the vapour,
Although these factors are controlling the heat.. the main factor would be the amount of metal and wattage that provides the maximum heat that we can play with to begin with (heat flux on Steam Engine),
Chamber sizes and airflow only play a part in heat loss... (basic thermodynamics)
[TL;DR] - By turning down the airflow we could get a denser vape without resorting to bumping up wattage at but with a different inhale sensation and could drive the heat up... and with using RTA's and RDA's with smaller chamber sizes... flavor and heat is exponentially increased....
I've managed to get a heat flux of 320 milliwatts per millimeter squared and thats all of the heat i can play with at 25 watts.. (with the above mentioned build) and i hope to find something with less airflow and a smaller chamber to get me the most out of that heat...
I'm curious as to what RTA would give me the best performance for low wattage vaping...
I prefer something with a seriously small chamber and tight DL airflow..
(Battery Life)
With regulated devices (that feature step-down or step-up),
The resistance of the coil is irrelevant to the battery life as proven in this link
http://blog.thevaporist.org/2016/01/13/coilresistance/
It all has to do with wattage and nothing else but wattage (less wattage = more life)
So i would like to put it out there that it's safe to say... 25 watts on a 0.7 is no different to 25 watts on a 1.5
(Nic levels)
I used to vape 9mg on a 50 watt velocity build and it got me my nicotine fix in several puffs
And when i switched to stealth vaping i realized that i was chain vaping like crazy on the same juice to get my desired hit
I now vape 18mg and 12mg depending on how much i want to vape before feeling the nic hit...
Is it only me? or did anyone else use more nic when switching to stealthing?
My educated guess is that you're inhaling less vapor at a time with smaller and lower wattage builds thus the same liquid would take more puffs to get to you...
Thanks for reading this whole thread..
I noticed the lack of any threads discussing stealth vaping builds in this much detail...
Which encouraged me to create a much needed thread to fill in this empty area..
Keep calm and vape on!
There's a evidently a serious demand for stealthy mini mods
Most people wouldnt run these miniature mods at their maximum due to battery life constraints
And i personally use them around 15-25 watts...
I'm rocking a Subtank Mini with a 26 gauge kanthal, wrapped 5 times on a 2.5mm bit and it's been quite okay on my Minivolt so far..... but flavor leaves much to be desired
I've been looking to top out my Minivolt with a true RTA and not just a subohm tank with an RBA section...
I've looked at the Doggystyle tanks, Kayfun V5 clones and also the Serpent Mini and Alto and i cant really decide on which would give me the tighthest DL i could have (borderline MTL) with serious amounts of heat
This thread was made to discuss;
- Battery life
- Maximizing flavor (heat, density and etc)
- What nic levels are you using? (With lower amounts of vapour produced using low wattage and low mass coils.. predictably a higher MG would be needed to get the same buzz as you would lower MG on a crazier build)
(What affects flavor and heat?)
To begin with, i've been wondering what RTA's or RDA's are on your mini mods,
I find that for flavour it's always about the ratio of air to the volume of vapour that gets you a lighter or denser mouthfeel and flavor,
We are really limited on power so i personally find that it's better to go about it the other way around and tighten our airflow to get less air and more vapor (denser ratio) for better flavor even if it changes the inhale sensation
And i've also found that a smaller build works better in a smaller chamber because there's simply less empty space (more vapour in the chamber) which helps for maintaining heat (due to less dormant air) and helps concentrate the airspeed and velocity of the vapour,
Although these factors are controlling the heat.. the main factor would be the amount of metal and wattage that provides the maximum heat that we can play with to begin with (heat flux on Steam Engine),
Chamber sizes and airflow only play a part in heat loss... (basic thermodynamics)
[TL;DR] - By turning down the airflow we could get a denser vape without resorting to bumping up wattage at but with a different inhale sensation and could drive the heat up... and with using RTA's and RDA's with smaller chamber sizes... flavor and heat is exponentially increased....
I've managed to get a heat flux of 320 milliwatts per millimeter squared and thats all of the heat i can play with at 25 watts.. (with the above mentioned build) and i hope to find something with less airflow and a smaller chamber to get me the most out of that heat...
I'm curious as to what RTA would give me the best performance for low wattage vaping...
I prefer something with a seriously small chamber and tight DL airflow..
(Battery Life)
With regulated devices (that feature step-down or step-up),
The resistance of the coil is irrelevant to the battery life as proven in this link
http://blog.thevaporist.org/2016/01/13/coilresistance/
It all has to do with wattage and nothing else but wattage (less wattage = more life)
So i would like to put it out there that it's safe to say... 25 watts on a 0.7 is no different to 25 watts on a 1.5
(Nic levels)
I used to vape 9mg on a 50 watt velocity build and it got me my nicotine fix in several puffs
And when i switched to stealth vaping i realized that i was chain vaping like crazy on the same juice to get my desired hit
I now vape 18mg and 12mg depending on how much i want to vape before feeling the nic hit...
Is it only me? or did anyone else use more nic when switching to stealthing?
My educated guess is that you're inhaling less vapor at a time with smaller and lower wattage builds thus the same liquid would take more puffs to get to you...
Thanks for reading this whole thread..
I noticed the lack of any threads discussing stealth vaping builds in this much detail...
Which encouraged me to create a much needed thread to fill in this empty area..
Keep calm and vape on!