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Supreme RDTA by SteamCrave
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Scratch88683
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I'm thinking about getting a reuleaux. Price is great and it seems like everyone has one..
Mikhail Naumov
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Board is good, mod isn't well made. Undersized wiring, grounded with only a phillip's head screw, DNA200 version has the screen ribbon pinched behind the button, the 510 is crap and several insulators have gone bad and other's have had the 510 pin permanently get stuck down on them, etc.
Scratch88683
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Well I have a ipv 3 li and a cuboid for 200 watt mods the reuleaux was interesting to me because of the triple battery
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Get an iStick 200TC. Same board as the RX, triple 18650.
Scratch88683
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Is the istick better? I had 2 I stick 40w tc's the one bricked in 2 weeks and I got it replaced and the replacement still works but I've rarely used it in the paSt 6 months.
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There's more RX200's I've heard of being 'bricked' than any other mod out besides SMY shit.
https://www.google.com/search?q=rx200+problems&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8
Buy at your own risk.
https://www.google.com/search?q=rx200+problems&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8
Buy at your own risk.
Scratch88683
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Good to know I'll look into the istick
Scratch88683
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Well I just ordered a reuleuax rx200 I would have ordered a the istick but they are still on preorder and I'm going to Vegas next week and I wanted it for the trio
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Some do just fine, it's not a guarantee it'll fuck up. Just a lot have. Avoid threading ANY RTA/RDA/RDTA/Genny Tank/Sub-Ohm Tank/Whatever with a long 510 pin down on it, because it will stunt the 510 pin forever.
What u think?
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I think I'll stick to my DNA200 boards, but if you're not crazy about hella-accurate TC and board customization along with high setting accuracy or just want to save money it'll be a good mod. It's literally an RX200 with a different frame around the board. Joyetech makes the board in the RX, so seeing a 200W triple 18650 board with an identical screen to the RX from Joyetech makes it pretty obvious it's the same board. Could even be a newer version, firmware updates can only provide so much, hardware updates (newer versions of the board itself) can give more overall headroom to a chipset.
Thanks men..
Vapin_4_Real
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Just got my supreme. First build I put dual fused claptons in. 2x28gKA1 core wrapped with 32gKA1 2.4mm id. Reads out about .37 and vapes like a dream. No leaks and no dry hits. Loving this thing.
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casino money
18659s?
I'm getting a lot of juice in the drip tip
The supreme doesn't wick efficiently!!!
BOREAS wins this category, I think I already said this on the other thread...
Anymore suggestions? COILS?
I don't even bother to put anything fancy on the supreme, the BOREAS gets the
Fused
Alien coils
Cuz the supreme CANT Hang, I guess if you VAPE under 70 watts this is the tank for you, but how can you go back to the supreme after vaping the BOREAS????
JUST SAYING
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BOREAS wins this category, I think I already said this on the other thread...
Anymore suggestions? COILS?
I don't even bother to put anything fancy on the supreme, the BOREAS gets the
Fused
Alien coils
Cuz the supreme CANT Hang, I guess if you VAPE under 70 watts this is the tank for you, but how can you go back to the supreme after vaping the BOREAS????
JUST SAYING
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Got the supreme and tbh I'm not super impressed.
For that price point I would have expected a perfect tank and it's far from it.
I thing the new SMOK TF-RDTA, which looks to me like an Aromamizer V1 and Supreme hybrid, at less then half the price, is a much more sane option.
For that price point I would have expected a perfect tank and it's far from it.
I thing the new SMOK TF-RDTA, which looks to me like an Aromamizer V1 and Supreme hybrid, at less then half the price, is a much more sane option.
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typo, 18650s..18659s?
Oh ok, I thought it was a new kind of batts, just making sure
Spacers/protectors. The ones I have 2 of them and the Boreas (longest pin of anything I've used) sits with a solid connection but not pushing down too deep to cause a problem.
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The fact you have to use those is a turn off for me though. I still like my RX, simply because it does 250 watts.
I agree, but hey, I'm a frugal bastard and I'm used to some blemishes to get things working just right.
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I have 8 DNA200's and 10 DNA200 boards plus more and 7 more mods altogether. I can't say I'm frugal, but I do avoid shit that's steered me or other people wrong most of the time when I'm searching for new shit to buy.
I've accepted most everything has at least some negative quirk. I mean look at the DNA Reuleaux, it has those funky battery cuff thingies that are apparently wreaking havoc on people's battery wraps. Lipo cells are great but not easily interchangeable. RDAs are fucking awesome, but you have to keep dripping on them or set them up to squonk which means a bulkier mod... problems everywhere, just a matter of what you're willing to deal with to get the positive attributes.
Mikhail Naumov
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I can change a lipo in and out of my custom box, 6,200mah 25C 3S Lipo with an XT60 connector on the packs and the DNA200 board, quicker than I can change a triple 18650 mod. Unplug, pull, stuff the new one in, plug, seat, done. No worrying about tearing wraps on connections or fucking up the polarity, just unplug, plug and go.
One you made yourself? Or how much did it cost? Point is there's always a con. If you don't feel comfortable building a box, or even maybe the shape (I am certainly in love with the Reuleaux style box, fits so nice) there's always a tradeoff. Nothing is perfect, or at least I haven't found something. Hell I fucking LOVE the Noisy Cricket, but in my hand it's a tad too small, but I love that I can pocket it, and having to handle it gingerly is not an issue I really care to complain about, but it is a negative, then there's the fact that it could be made out of much higher quality materials to prevent wear. I just can't help but feel there's always something to point out as a downside.
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I made it myself. Parts and all, wholesale on the 30 boards I bought, boards were $60 or so each, custom CNC enclosure was $22 from a local shop, $10 for the powder coat and engraving from a buddy, then I used a Mitec switch soldered onto the board, that was like $5 each wholesale when I got a 100, wattage up and down buttons are CNC cutouts included with the box, all the holes were drilled, screen and USB ports were cut for me so no price increase there. 510 is a Varitube 28.5mm that's flush with the top of the box so anything looks the tits on it, 40mm shit has like 2mm hangover, the box is HUGE. 99% of toppers fit flush on it, there's 37.8mms of clearance around the 510. The 510 pin was custom, I ordered it, it's solid silver coated with rose gold, it was $20, the 510 was like $5 each wholesale on 50 I think. the wires were maybe a total of $3 all-in-all in terms of wire used, it's 100% stranded silver but not much wiring was used. The XT60 connectors I got on wholesale for $2.50 each for 300, I had to solder them onto both the lipo packs and board. The lipo packs I contracted custom from the company I work for, had my own part in designing them, those were $30 each on a HUGE discount I got since I basically designed them and work for the company. All in all, factoring in I used wholesale prices per part used, it was about $150 worth of parts used. For most people, using retail by the part prices, it would've cost upwards of $220-250 to make. I'm also not including the spare lipo packs, I got 4 custom made, only included the price of one.
I'll put it this way, if I sold these boxes retail I'd charge $350 a piece for them. The box is massive but it's still hand held in one hand and if nothing is in a pocket I can usually fit in a cargo short pocket. 6,200mah lipo I designed to be as small as possible kept it from being too big to hold in one hand properly.
I'll put it this way, if I sold these boxes retail I'd charge $350 a piece for them. The box is massive but it's still hand held in one hand and if nothing is in a pocket I can usually fit in a cargo short pocket. 6,200mah lipo I designed to be as small as possible kept it from being too big to hold in one hand properly.
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So an issue I can fix with some spacers and imperfection for $40 total + batteries, or $350 for a box that I'm sure is pretty damn awesome? See the tradeoff? That's all I'm trying to say. $350 is only slightly less than I've spent on vaping the last 1-2 years! I'm sure your setup is objectively "better" ignoring cost, but I'm quite satisfied and happy I took the frugal route even if it meant some "duct tape fixes". I'm not trying to say the RX200 is a great device, just that it's more than adequate for many, and given some fixes/awareness it's seemed to treat me quite well so far, and the only issue I've heard of is easy to remedy at the cost of a minor aesthetic inconvenience.
Mikhail Naumov
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Just a really nice DNA200 with hella battery life and no amperage draw worries. Every precaution took for accuracy, like the 510 pin and wire used.
If you guys having dry hits issue
Lessen ur cotton and use
COTTON BACON V2, @80 watts less cotton , just enough to cover the holes but don't push it down to the point ur blocking the holes.
10wraps twisted 24 SS 3.0 id
Changed my drip tip, big difference...
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Lessen ur cotton and use
COTTON BACON V2, @80 watts less cotton , just enough to cover the holes but don't push it down to the point ur blocking the holes.
10wraps twisted 24 SS 3.0 id
Changed my drip tip, big difference...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mikhail Naumov
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EJ I'd say 98-99% of people aren't going to have any twisted 24 gauge SS wire on hand. Wattage has no effect on dry hits as long as you use wattage that fits the coil. Bigger diameter coil, thicker wire, more cotton which equals more wicking properties = higher wattage capable. It's about how you wick it, not the coils used.
Wattage don't have effect on dry hits?? Are you kidding me? Not all tanks vapes like the BOREAS, the BOREAS wicks efficiently, and I already said that, the supreme doesn't, you have to find the right combos of the following...
Cotton
Coils
Juice vg/Pg ratio
Wattage
Temp
All of the above MUST be considered..
Whatever works for you...
I stated I was having dry hits
I stated I wasn't getting the flavor
I stated I was having gurgling and juice pooling in the stock drip tip...
Which I have zero issue with the BOREAS..
The supreme is different, it's a flavor first RDTA, and that's something first time RDTA/RTA users MUST consider...
Mikhail Naumov
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Occam's razor, the simplest explanation given is almost always the answer. Nor is it a flavor chasing RDTA. The Aromamizer V1/V2 are flavor chasers. Something with a nearly 17mm build deck and a ton of airflow is not a flavor first tank as you claim. The drip tip effects VERY little, just the end of the vape, not the start of it where dry hits occur. Wattage has nothing to do with dry hits, over-watting a coil causes BURNT hits, because it literally burns the cotton faster than it atomizes juice. DRY hits are an issue on the wicking. Vaping too fast can cause dry hits, but VG/PG ratio in a tank like the Boreas or Supreme is irrelevant until you go above like 92% VG. Temperature also has NOTHING to do with it. Coils don't either, it's the WICKS in the coils.
There is no 10 step program to preventing dry hits. In a tank like the Supreme, WICKING is key, 100% key. We aren't talking about Kayfun's here, don't over complicate something very simple. If I can chain vape the Supreme at 150W with 3mm 10 wrap fused claptons, wattage has very little to do with it when the tank can handle a build with 9V 150W output. You're gonna make people start experimenting with a world of irrelevant shit when it all comes down to WICKING, cotton.
The Boreas and Supreme both have decks, where the Supreme only has ONE deck, with 2.5mm wicking holes. They use the same wicking mechanism. How can you pretend like one is different when they have identical wicking holes and use the 100% exact same method of wicking? Focus dude. The Boreas has a little more overall airflow than the Supreme, then it has the JFC/AFC combined into one mechanism and has slightly more juice capacity. That's where the differences end, these tanks are extremely similar, so don't act like you wick them entirely different.
On the Boreas/Supreme, or virtually any modern rebuildable tank, if you're getting dry hits, it's because you used too much cotton or your juice is as thick a batter, 92% VG+. End of story, if you're getting burnt hits every hit then blame wattage, but if you build appropriate coils for appropriate wattage, this problem will never even present. It's wicking, and it will always be wicking.
There is no 10 step program to preventing dry hits. In a tank like the Supreme, WICKING is key, 100% key. We aren't talking about Kayfun's here, don't over complicate something very simple. If I can chain vape the Supreme at 150W with 3mm 10 wrap fused claptons, wattage has very little to do with it when the tank can handle a build with 9V 150W output. You're gonna make people start experimenting with a world of irrelevant shit when it all comes down to WICKING, cotton.
The Boreas and Supreme both have decks, where the Supreme only has ONE deck, with 2.5mm wicking holes. They use the same wicking mechanism. How can you pretend like one is different when they have identical wicking holes and use the 100% exact same method of wicking? Focus dude. The Boreas has a little more overall airflow than the Supreme, then it has the JFC/AFC combined into one mechanism and has slightly more juice capacity. That's where the differences end, these tanks are extremely similar, so don't act like you wick them entirely different.
On the Boreas/Supreme, or virtually any modern rebuildable tank, if you're getting dry hits, it's because you used too much cotton or your juice is as thick a batter, 92% VG+. End of story, if you're getting burnt hits every hit then blame wattage, but if you build appropriate coils for appropriate wattage, this problem will never even present. It's wicking, and it will always be wicking.
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I wicked the BOREAS with more cotton, because the JFC/AFC is more efficient and has a bigger deck/juice holes!
The supreme has a smaller deck/juice holes!
and u are correct, wicking effectively prevents dry hits, with that being said I rebuild my supreme
2x24/36 fc 3.0 id 5 wraps CBv2 at 85 watts no dry hits JFC fully open max vg, with less cotton...
If i go 100 watts it will get dry hits, that's my experienced, for U to dismissed wattage don't give dry hits is STUPID... Maybe ur using a wealthy cotton, PLEASE SHARE
I'm not sure why I keep reading the Boreas has bigger juice holes. The Supreme has 2.5mm holes, the same as the Boreas. I know the Boreas also has a second deck with 2mm juice holes but that doesn't equal bigger. With the separate juice flow control (a plus imo) of the Supreme, you can just close it down if you want less juice flow. So far I'm extremely happy with the Supreme. Not a single dry hit and it hasn't leaked a drop. Easy to fill, just close off the JFC and fill, then open it back up, no tipping to burp. I also really like having all the knurling, it really helps to have things to grip so I don't accidentally unscrew the tank section while taking the top fill cap off.I wicked the BOREAS with more cotton, because the JFC/AFC is more efficient and has a bigger deck/juice holes!
The supreme has a smaller deck/juice holes!
and u are correct, wicking effectively prevents dry hits, with that being said I rebuild my supreme
2x24/36 fc 3.0 id 5 wraps CBv2 at 85 watts no dry hits JFC fully open max vg, with less cotton...
If i go 100 watts it will get dry hits, that's my experienced, for U to dismissed wattage don't give dry hits is STUPID... Maybe ur using a wealthy cotton, PLEASE SHARE
Talks about having 2.5mm juice flow holes on the next to the last picture.
Here's the direct link since it came out small and is hard to read>
http://shop.steamcrave.com/aromamizer-supreme-rdta_p0918.html
Cheers,
Steve
Mikhail Naumov
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EJ I tell you you're wrong and you debate me for three posts, he tells you he gets a like. The fuck man, I feel the h8.
I never hate bro...
I don't engage with you most of the time cuz most of the time I don't know wtf you talking about, I pick my spots bro...
I agree with what u said about WICKING,
But if the juice flow on the the tank has a flaw, it doesn't matter how perfect ur wicks are, you will get dry hits... That's all I'm saying...
Ur turn..
Mikhail Naumov
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Use less cotton. Checkmate.
Didn't i just say that?!
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No.
READ with ur eyes
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I did, think with your mind.