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The BOREAS RTA by Augvape and Roxy

fq06

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Yeah, I guess if I could fit a couple 18650's I could find a 3s lipo to fit and do the 200w update... if that's available for the V1 chip. If not, 150w 2s will do for the builds I run.

This is more of a project for the hell of it than a I want a new mod type of thing. I want the power plus profile with more than single cell power for builds that can't be run in TC mode.

DNA 200 chip will be my pre-fda-apocalypse purchase.

Guess I may settle with the natural renegade II box if I don't find anything else
 

Mikhail Naumov

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I ordered black from VT, so, I think they're the only ones in stock.
 

roxynoodle

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I originally had coffee, but switched to red, so mine might be last.
 

Mikhail Naumov

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I'm not expecting it to beat the DNA, as there's not one thing it can do a DNA can't and dual 18650 + direct non-pulsed 200W + being safe = impossible. Plus it being a boost/buck chip compared to the buck only DNA means it will not be as efficient on power use either. Plus the SX-Q software lacks options the DNA software does. I'm just curious to see what SX did on the 450J that the 350J-V2 200W doesn't already do itself, besides a legit 200W.
 

kwb19448

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Where did you find the high gauge ss. Did they have any ribbon ss?

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Azriel Mysterious

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So what's the deal with Temp Control? I've never used it. It is ALL my mother does use (she's not interested in how or why it works, and my sister and her husband (that I got into Vaping) do all the work for her. She's technologically challenged)

Ive been out of the "next new thing" loop for a while. Since back when the Provari was the "must have" and when the Eclipse EQ bombed epically. (Which sucks 'cause I really wanted one. I liked the concept)
 

Deucesjack

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So what's the deal with Temp Control? I've never used it. It is ALL my mother does use (she's not interested in how or why it works, and my sister and her husband (that I got into Vaping) do all the work for her. She's technologically challenged)

Ive been out of the "next new thing" loop for a while. Since back when the Provari was the "must have" and when the Eclipse EQ bombed epically. (Which sucks 'cause I really wanted one. I liked the concept)
In tc you can adjust the wattage and the temperature. The wattage controls the ramp up time that your coil hits the temperature that you set. It's the smoothest most consistent vape I have ever had. I only vape SS in tc.

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Mikhail Naumov

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Temperature control is a mechanism that (currently) works via two main mechanisms on the DC-DC regulator board powering mods with the function, one, TCR curve input and two, electrical resistance pinging. Basically, depending on the wire, a TCR curve will either be already on the board's memory or in the DNA/Newer SX Boards case be uploaded through software like Escribe/SX-Q, some mods have a value system you can input but this doesn't work all that well. The TCR curve gives the board a sort of 'feel and sense' for the wire to put it in layman, then through electronic resistance pinging, the mod CONSTANTLY will ping the coils in the atomizer to detect the smallest of small changes in resistance. So as your coil heats up, it resists current more, so its resistance (ohms) will climb, as it climbs, the board detects this and will modify the wattage output (usually by bucking it down) to maintain the input temperature. TCR curves give the board an idea of the wire, then pinging the resistance as the coil heats up does the rest. Most mods have a preheat wattage, which will be the power delivered for the first second or so, this allows the coils to get close to the desired temperature, then the mod detects the climbing resistance and cuts the wattage down to maintain a temperature around your setting. This technology can be VERY hit and miss depending on which board is in your mod, your settings and the wire used.

Temperature control is a POOR term for the technology as it is right now, temperature LIMITING is a better one. Basically the board will limit your coil builds to whatever temperature you set. Some wires have a more stagnant resistance like Kanthal, these are very poor TC wires. Some like Ni200 (Nickel 200), Titanium G1, NiFe-30 (Nickel Iron 30) and 430 Grade Stainless Steel have a resistance that changes drastically as the wire becomes heated. These low resistance wires climb in resistance as the coil heats, through TCR curves and pings the mod monitors and corrects the wattage to try and stay at that temperature. This can be very accurate or piss poor accurate depending on the board and settings used. The idea is to reduce dry hits when the wicks run out of juice by keeping the temperature below or just at the burning temperature of cotton. This can lead to longer hits, more hits out of a wick/build, less dry hits, a cooler vape and to some better flavor.
 

Icipher84

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  1. MadVLNSenior MemberVerified Member
    Jan 15, 2016
    Central WA State
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    i was having leak problems with mine. apparently i wasn't using enough wick.

    i was using enough to cover the holes, but not very much. i left a gap under my coil for air flow. i think that was my mistake. after refilling with juice, i'd pretty much get leaking from air holes most of the time. it got to the point where i stopped using it.
    gDUMQ9Ql.jpg


    here she is rewicked. i used more cotton. now no leaks.
    u0tv8qDl.jpg


 

Azriel Mysterious

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Temperature control is a mechanism that (currently) works via two main mechanisms on the DC-DC regulator board powering mods with the function, one, TCR curve input and two, electrical resistance pinging. Basically, depending on the wire, a TCR curve will either be already on the board's memory or in the DNA/Newer SX Boards case be uploaded through software like Escribe/SX-Q, some mods have a value system you can input but this doesn't work all that well. The TCR curve gives the board a sort of 'feel and sense' for the wire to put it in layman, then through electronic resistance pinging, the mod CONSTANTLY will ping the coils in the atomizer to detect the smallest of small changes in resistance. So as your coil heats up, it resists current more, so its resistance (ohms) will climb, as it climbs, the board detects this and will modify the wattage output (usually by bucking it down) to maintain the input temperature. TCR curves give the board an idea of the wire, then pinging the resistance as the coil heats up does the rest. Most mods have a preheat wattage, which will be the power delivered for the first second or so, this allows the coils to get close to the desired temperature, then the mod detects the climbing resistance and cuts the wattage down to maintain a temperature around your setting. This technology can be VERY hit and miss depending on which board is in your mod, your settings and the wire used.

Temperature control is a POOR term for the technology as it is right now, temperature LIMITING is a better one. Basically the board will limit your coil builds to whatever temperature you set. Some wires have a more stagnant resistance like Kanthal, these are very poor TC wires. Some like Ni200 (Nickel 200), Titanium G1, NiFe-30 (Nickel Iron 30) and 430 Grade Stainless Steel have a resistance that changes drastically as the wire becomes heated. These low resistance wires climb in resistance as the coil heats, through TCR curves and pings the mod monitors and corrects the wattage to try and stay at that temperature. This can be very accurate or piss poor accurate depending on the board and settings used. The idea is to reduce dry hits when the wicks run out of juice by keeping the temperature below or just at the burning temperature of cotton. This can lead to longer hits, more hits out of a wick/build, less dry hits, a cooler vape and to some better flavor.
Leave it to Mikhail to über explain it ^.~

Can the Boreas work on a TC mod?
 

roxynoodle

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  1. MadVLNSenior MemberVerified Member
    Jan 15, 2016
    Central WA State
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    i was having leak problems with mine. apparently i wasn't using enough wick.

    i was using enough to cover the holes, but not very much. i left a gap under my coil for air flow. i think that was my mistake. after refilling with juice, i'd pretty much get leaking from air holes most of the time. it got to the point where i stopped using it.
    gDUMQ9Ql.jpg


    here she is rewicked. i used more cotton. now no leaks.
    u0tv8qDl.jpg


Is this a member here? Where was this posted?
 

Mikhail Naumov

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Just a heads up, the Q Class mod is garbage, three magnets already fell out of the door, inside of door came scuffed and marked to hell, gash on the bottom and the mod feels cheap. It's also lighter than air and it's awkward to hold.

The board is literally an SX-350J-V2 with two new features that literally do virtually nothing. It also sucks your batteries dead quickly. It peaked around 175W at 200W then pulsed on a boost setting, my batteries were getting like about to vent hot and the mod did nothing.

It's a SX-350J-V2 with two new useless features. It PALES in comparison to DNA200 TC, Escribe also has more options. No 316L SS preset. TCR value input like the RX. Jokkkeeee. SX-Q offers nothing new. Mod is potentially dangerous at high wattage outputs if it's in boost mode, does not do a legit, non PWM 200W and it's not even a safe 200W PWM. 1-140W in power mode, it vapes like a DNA in power mode. 140-200W, DNA power mode beats it by a long shot. TC DNA SHITS on SX TC.

The board is pretty good but I think I like the SX-350J-V2 renegade style boards WAY better. The SX450J board on its on if updated has potential, not DNA potential, but potential. The Q Class enclosure is shittily made and reeks of China. Magnets falling out and marks all over it when it was in a sealed box so I know it wasn't the mail guys fault.

DNA200 > SX350J-V2 > RX200 Board > Sigelei 213 Board >450J. Seriously, this is a waste of money and the enclosure is SHIT in terms of quality. Board is okay, it's a 350JV2 with two new useless options I can't even notice.

DONOTBUY. Wait for the 450J board on its own, buy a DNA.

Even though I said the DNA200 would reign supreme, I'm VERY, VERY let down by this mod..
 
Last edited:

Deucesjack

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Just a heads up, the Q Class mod is garbage, three magnets already fell out of the door, inside of door came scuffed and marked to hell, gash on the bottom and the mod feels cheap. It's also lighter than air and it's awkward to hold.

The board is literally an SX-350J-V2 with two new features that literally do virtually nothing. It also sucks your batteries dead quickly. It peaked around 175W at 200W then pulsed on a boost setting, my batteries were getting like about to vent hot and the mod did nothing.

It's a SX-350J-V2 with two new useless features. It PALES in comparison to DNA200 TC, Escribe also has more options. No 316L SS preset. TCR value input like the RX. Jokkkeeee. SX-Q offers nothing new. Mod is potentially dangerous at high wattage outputs if it's in boost mode, does not do a legit, non PWM 200W and it's not even a safe 200W PWM. 1-140W in power mode, it vapes like a DNA in power mode. 140-200W, DNA power mode beats it by a long shot. TC DNA SHITS on SX TC.

The board is pretty good but I think I like the SX-350J-V2 renegade style boards WAY better. The SX450J board on its on if updated has potential, not DNA potential, but potential. The Q Class enclosure is shittily made and wreaks of China. Magnets falling out and marks all over it when it was in a sealed box so I know it wasn't the mail guys fault.

DNA200 > SX350J-V2 > RX200 Board > Sigelei 213 Board >450J. Seriously, this is a waste of money and the enclosure is SHIT in terms of quality. Board is okay, it's a 350JV2 with two new useless options I can't even notice.

DONOTBUY. Wait for the 450J board on its own, buy a DNA.

Even though I said the DNA200 would reign supreme, I'm VERY, VERY let down by this mod..
Wow bro, sorry to hear that. I was taking a serious look at that mod.

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ej1024

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Just a heads up, the Q Class mod is garbage, three magnets already fell out of the door, inside of door came scuffed and marked to hell, gash on the bottom and the mod feels cheap. It's also lighter than air and it's awkward to hold.

The board is literally an SX-350J-V2 with two new features that literally do virtually nothing. It also sucks your batteries dead quickly. It peaked around 175W at 200W then pulsed on a boost setting, my batteries were getting like about to vent hot and the mod did nothing.

It's a SX-350J-V2 with two new useless features. It PALES in comparison to DNA200 TC, Escribe also has more options. No 316L SS preset. TCR value input like the RX. Jokkkeeee. SX-Q offers nothing new. Mod is potentially dangerous at high wattage outputs if it's in boost mode, does not do a legit, non PWM 200W and it's not even a safe 200W PWM. 1-140W in power mode, it vapes like a DNA in power mode. 140-200W, DNA power mode beats it by a long shot. TC DNA SHITS on SX TC.

The board is pretty good but I think I like the SX-350J-V2 renegade style boards WAY better. The SX450J board on its on if updated has potential, not DNA potential, but potential. The Q Class enclosure is shittily made and wreaks of China. Magnets falling out and marks all over it when it was in a sealed box so I know it wasn't the mail guys fault.

DNA200 > SX350J-V2 > RX200 Board > Sigelei 213 Board >450J. Seriously, this is a waste of money and the enclosure is SHIT in terms of quality. Board is okay, it's a 350JV2 with two new useless options I can't even notice.

DONOTBUY. Wait for the 450J board on its own, buy a DNA.

Even though I said the DNA200 would reign supreme, I'm VERY, VERY let down by this mod..
Thanks bro,
Any info on the triade? And the duo?
 

Mikhail Naumov

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I've had the Duo for a minute. A lot shipped out early with crooked ass 510's, but they fixed that. Otherwise the sled is a little flimsy, I never use it in 18650 mode, I did once to see if it worked, did, then I kept the lipo in it and haven't even took it back out.

Don't have the Triade yet.
 

ej1024

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I've had the Duo for a minute. A lot shipped out early with crooked ass 510's, but they fixed that. Otherwise the sled is a little flimsy, I never use it in 18650 mode, I did once to see if it worked, did, then I kept the lipo in it and haven't even took it back out.

Don't have the Triade yet.
Ok thanks, did you hear about buttons rattling a on the duo?
 

JERUS

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No, because I don't violently shake my mods when I vape and I don't understand why people care if buttons rattle. We are not cavemen just fucking waving shit around like savages.
Speak for yourself!:xD:
 

Deucesjack

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LMFAO, I never understood why every reviewer shakes the hell out of a mod and then says she has a little bit of button rattle. LOL. I can understand if the battery door rattles or is loose like on my X Cube. Every time I picked that mod up and hit the fire bar the battery door would slide. Now that was annoying but button rattle? I think that's just nit picking.
 

ej1024

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LMFAO, I never understood why every reviewer shakes the hell out of a mod and then says she has a little bit of button rattle. LOL. I can understand if the battery door rattles or is loose like on my X Cube. Every time I picked that mod up and hit the fire bar the battery door would slide. Now that was annoying but button rattle? I think that's just nit picking.
That's not nit picking bro
That's just shows you what kind of qc these manufacturers do, it's not suppose to rattle, for how much the asking price of the duo it should be flawless... I'm OCD,shit like that bothers me, I don't like battery cover coming of, don't like rattling.. If I'm gonna spend 150 bucks on a mod it shouldn't rattle like a rattle snake...
 

Deucesjack

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That's not nit picking bro
That's just shows you what kind of qc these manufacturers do, it's not suppose to rattle, for how much the asking price of the duo it should be flawless... I'm OCD,shit like that bothers me, I don't like battery cover coming of, don't like rattling.. If I'm gonna spend 150 bucks on a mod it shouldn't rattle like a rattle snake...
I honestly don't know if any of my mods have the infamous button rattle because I never felt the need to shake the hell out of them. Hey, different strokes for different folks.

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ej1024

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I honestly don't know if any of my mods have the infamous button rattle because I never felt the need to shake the hell out of them. Hey, different strokes for different folks.

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No shaking here bro, it's picking it, putting it down that's how bad it is!
 

Azriel Mysterious

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No, because I don't violently shake my mods when I vape and I don't understand why people care if buttons rattle. We are not cavemen just fucking waving shit around like savages.
This made me LOL. Of course I also got a mental image of penis light sabre battles. (In another thread someone mentioned dick measuring/battles and it kinda stuck)

Carry on, my mind is fucked up...
 

raymo2u

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Im excited :cool: I thought it was a joke when someone claiming to be from AVS commented to me under a comment I made on Fagans video about them....they asked me if I wanted a job...Its crazy how word gets around! I sent them a email and so far it sound like a great deal.

Thanks guys!
 

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