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The Official #HandCheck Thread

MannyScoot

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
A little series today..19 on about 4 volts. Sounds just like a parallel build. Lol
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Sent from a pile of wood chips
Dang man....you made me pull out my zombie mod.... parallel and series mod ....

I made this one years ago when I got the zombie fever....
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Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
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crazydmnd

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Haze DNA 75C
Manufactured by Vicious Ant

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Sent from a Galaxy far far away
An uncommon and very nice score you got there, my friend.

Speaking of Jai and VA, I can attest the new Scylla rta is an immense atomizer, perhaps even worth the $150 plus shipping it costs. Now, as for the controversy, I'm probably leaning towards Jai on it because he has those old posts showing much of the same rta...

Which is why I do not feel bad sporting this sxk clone;)
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Sent from my SM-S767VL using Tapatalk
 

crazydmnd

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
And speaking of clones, I also don't feel to bad when you're talking about mods selling for $700.

I said it before, had the switch mechanism worked well with the shenray v1 armor (background) it would have been my favorite mod (and hopefully I'll find the time to try to find and implement a fix).

So when I saw vapeasy made a v2 armor mech, I was hesitant because I'm one of those faux snobs who only likes shenray, sxk, ulton, and perhaps yftk. But let me tell you, this thing is really nice, nice than the v1. The bottle system, everything.
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Sent from my SM-S767VL using Tapatalk
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
I like more sexy mods with plenty of colors ...
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Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
By far the nicest looking regulated mod I've seen is the Centaurus in "Pearl Fish Abalone" finish. I held it in my hand at the shop this evening, all the pics I found on the internet aren't doing it justice IMO excepting only the one below... as you can see, the metal surface is a lighter shade of gunmetal than all the other pics would suggest.

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MannyScoot

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
By far the nicest looking regulated mod I've seen is the Centaurus in "Pearl Fish Abalone" finish. I held it in my hand at the shop this evening, all the pics I found on the internet aren't doing it justice IMO excepting only the one below... as you can see, the metal surface is a lighter shade of gunmetal than all the other pics would suggest.

lostvape_centaurusdna250c-gunmetalpearlfishabalone.png
I used to love Lost Vape..... But lost my hope in them....

Their mods for some reason (The finish) self destructs after a short time and they are simply poor quality short life mods and highly priced for the quality you get.

I don't mean to bust your bubble, it's just my own personal opinion with Lost Vape mods that I have owned.

I believe there is much better out in the market for $150.00 to $200.00 bucks.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

I owned all of these in the last 2 years and all ended getting trashed.
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gadget!

"The Trader"
VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
VU SWAT
VU Patreon
I used to love Lost Vape..... But lost my hope in them....

Their mods for some reason (The finish) self destructs after a short time and they are simply poor quality short life mods and highly priced for the quality you get.

I don't mean to bust your bubble, it's just my own personal opinion with Lost Vape mods that I have owned.

I believe there is much better out in the market for $150.00 to $200.00 bucks.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

I'd have to disagree, I've owned just about every Lost Vape mod made with the exception of the pods.
I've only had one issue and I believe that was juice got into the board. I contacted Lost Vape and they had me send it in, they replaced the board and sent it back free of charge.
I personally think they make some of the nicest mods out there in that price range.
I have a Therion DNA 75C that I've had for close to a year now and I use it regularly. It still looks like brand new.

Just my opinion.

Here's my latest addition.

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Sent from a Galaxy far far away
 

MannyScoot

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I'd have to disagree, I've owned just about every Lost Vape mod made with the exception of the pods.
I've only had one issue and I believe that was juice got into the board. I contacted Lost Vape and they had me send it in, they replaced the board and sent it back free of charge.
I personally think they make some of the nicest mods out there in that price range.
I have a Therion DNA 75C that I've had for close to a year now and I use it regularly. It still looks like brand new.

Just my opinion.

Here's my latest addition.

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Sent from a Galaxy far far away
I used mine daily as an only mod and first the paint starts to chip or peel, then the 510's became loose time after time and then came the misfiring and using a mod without paint with a lost magnet and without any paint ..... and all (3) followed the same path to self destruction.

Sorry that was my experience with them.

They simply are weak mods for a daily only mod user....
Sorry had bad luck with mine.

This Rebel mod I have been using 16 hours daily for (2 years) and dropped from roofs, ladders and was involved in a motorcycle accident and rolled 100 feet on asphalt and still works !

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
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Gadget maybe I might be a mod abuser !
 
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Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
I used to love Lost Vape..... But lost my hope in them....

Their mods for some reason (The finish) self destructs after a short time and they are simply poor quality short life mods and highly priced for the quality you get.

I don't mean to bust your bubble, it's just my own personal opinion with Lost Vape mods that I have owned.

I believe there is much better out in the market for $150.00 to $200.00 bucks.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

I owned all of these in the last 2 years and all ended getting trashed.
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Bubble? What bubble? I was only talking about how it looks. I can't even remember when was the last time I vaped on a regulated mod. Regulated mods only hold back the maximum power level that a given battery can deliver with relative safety. The difference is most noticeable in how the coils ramp up. Sure, you can boost it by using the preheat function. But a mech always starts off at the resting voltage of the battery before it shoots straight down and then stabilizes as a result from the typical curve shape that defines the voltage sag behavior of the battery.

To be able to do the same, a regulated mod operating in bypass mode would require a separate battery to power the electronics part of the mod, in cohort with a special, custom type of Double Pole Single Throw (DPST) momentary, or push button switch where one pole is Normally Open (NO), one pole is Normally Closed (NC). This switch would have to be hooked up in such an unconventional way that the NO pole is part of only the mech circuit, the NC pole is part of only the regulated circuit. So basically each time when the fire button gets pressed, one battery gets physically disconnected from the chip, i.e. due to the NC pole moving from the closed state to the open state, one battery remains connected to the chip just so the chip still receives the power it requires for it to continue to function normally, and, at the same time also, the former battery gets physically connected to the mech circuit. That way, the fire button would toggle the mod between regulated mode and true mech mode. Using a MOSFET instead of such a mechanical switch would not be the same, albeit a MOSFET can still be attached to the NC pole, as doing that will allow the chip to properly disconnect itself from the former battery prior to the user pressing the fire button so that the chip only monitors the voltage of this battery for a brief period each time after the user releases the fire button, all the while the chip remains getting powered by the latter battery. Bottom line: you can't simulate a mech through firmware, as the huge full-range spike at the start of every hit you take is what sets a mech truly apart from electronics. They're m-cigs, not e-cigs. :D
 

MannyScoot

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Bubble? What bubble? I was only talking about how it looks. I can't even remember when was the last time I vaped on a regulated mod. Regulated mods only hold back the maximum power level that a given battery can deliver with relative safety. The difference is most noticeable in how the coils ramp up. Sure, you can boost it by using the preheat function. But a mech always starts off at the resting voltage of the battery before it shoots straight down and then stabilizes as a result from the typical curve shape that defines the voltage sag behavior of the battery.

To be able to do the same, a regulated mod operating in bypass mode would require a separate battery to power the electronics part of the mod, in cohort with a special, custom type of Double Pole Single Throw (DPST) momentary, or push button switch where one pole is Normally Open (NO), one pole is Normally Closed (NC). This switch would have to be hooked up in such an unconventional way that the NO pole is part of only the mech circuit, the NC pole is part of only the regulated circuit. So basically each time when the fire button gets pressed, one battery gets physically disconnected from the chip, i.e. due to the NC pole moving from the closed state to the open state, one battery remains connected to the chip just so the chip still receives the power it requires for it to continue to function normally, and, at the same time also, the former battery gets physically connected to the mech circuit. That way, the fire button would toggle the mod between regulated mode and true mech mode. Using a MOSFET instead of such a mechanical switch would not be the same, albeit a MOSFET can still be attached to the NC pole, as doing that will allow the chip to properly disconnect itself from the former battery prior to the user pressing the fire button so that the chip only monitors the voltage of this battery for a brief period each time after the user releases the fire button, all the while the chip remains getting powered by the latter battery. Bottom line: you can't simulate a mech through firmware, as the huge full-range spike at the start of every hit you take is what sets a mech truly apart from electronics. They're m-cigs, not e-cigs. :D
Not really a bubble, I just don't like people to loose money on merchandise I had high hopes for and later after purchasing realized man what did I do.

You seem to like the mod and held it at the shop and could possibly be happy with the purchase, I just felt on mentioning the experience I had with Lost Vape products.

So good luck in you next purchase.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
Not really a bubble, I just don't like people to loose money on merchandise I had high hopes for and later after purchasing realized man what did I do.

You seem to like the mod and held it at the shop and could possibly be happy with the purchase, I just felt on mentioning the experience I had with Lost Vape products.

So good luck in you next purchase.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Nah. I never liked DNA mods... even if you find a better quality, and also less expensive, DNA mod, eventually it WILL break, and, the mere thought of having to carry a spare mod around with me everywhere I go is why I think they are a big waste of money.

Do you remember what I told you about the particular subject of the rampup of a coil build? My Wismec RX300 with ArcticFox firmware can be set up in such a way that it delivers a preheat of up to 400 watts, initially, when the batteries are still fresh. It is a true 400 watt mod. Whereas a .1 ohm coil build on the HOG XL with four Samsung 30T batteries fully charged can attain more than 660 watts. I.e., on a mech the preheat part of the hit starts off so much higher in comparison to a regulated mod, by the time the mech starts off at just 400 watts the batteries will already be down to 3.2V, when, normally, on a mech the batteries only get vaped down to something like maybe 3.7V, not 3.2V. So, even with a high power regulated mod, the start of the preheat tends to be way more severely hardware-limited. Granted, only the very start of the preheat can attain such incredibly high power levels so that, after the preheat finishes, the sustained power level will be roughly 100 watts lower than this full-range spike of 660 watts in that example. But the thing is, during this preheat stage, with a mech the power drops off at a smoothly decelerating rate, as it transitions gradually, from decreasing almost vertically down, incredibly fast, to decreasing only slowly. Whereas with the RX300, using the Power Curve feature of ArcticFox to achieve a custom type preheat, during the preheat stage the wattage can be changed not more frequently than just 10 times per second.

So, with a regulated mod (any regulated mod...) each time after the power is decreased one additional step, it stays invariable for like one tenth of a second, which means that this gradual transition follows a much different path when compared to a mech, i.e., one that can never be truly characterizingly smooth. That's a huge shortcoming, and one that persists in any and all regulated mods, no exceptions. Because, my speed of inhalation is what controls my coil temperature far more accurately than any chip is capable to do, and, for that to work right, my brain has to cue in on the speed of vapor production starting at the beginning of every hit, which it can do only via adaptation, to a consistent smooth transition, i.e. that of the rampup stage converging, characterizingly, with the remainder of the hit. Adaptation is the key word here.

I have said it hundred times before, and will keep saying it... the cheap RX 300 with ArcticFox can automatically, on-the-fly, re-calculate all the wattages that make up this power curve, as they are user-defined, not in the form of wattages, but in the form of percentages, relative to the wattage that you set on the mod. Whereas the expensive DNA mods can not do this, as they all force the user to select wattages instead so, percentages are not part of their DNA. Literally! For this reason alone, if I were FORCED to vape on a regulated mod, then, any and all DNA mods would STILL be a big waste of my money, REGARDLESS. Slow rampup causes faster gunking, it boils the cotton fibers to mush, and does so in such a way that all the delicate flavor notes tend to get boiled into oblivion before they really stand a chance to propagate onto the vapor. That is, albeit I did discover a nice workaround to this flavor problem. Sadly however, it created a new set of problems one of which was the fact it ate through juice faster than the speed of lightning.
 

lak611

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I'd have to disagree, I've owned just about every Lost Vape mod made with the exception of the pods.
I've only had one issue and I believe that was juice got into the board. I contacted Lost Vape and they had me send it in, they replaced the board and sent it back free of charge.
I personally think they make some of the nicest mods out there in that price range.
I have a Therion DNA 75C that I've had for close to a year now and I use it regularly. It still looks like brand new.

Just my opinion.

Here's my latest addition.

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Sent from a Galaxy far far away
I haven't had any issues with my Paranormal or Triade so far, and those are the two mods that I use the most.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

PaulS

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
I used to love Lost Vape..... But lost my hope in them....

Their mods for some reason (The finish) self destructs after a short time and they are simply poor quality short life mods and highly priced for the quality you get.

I don't mean to bust your bubble, it's just my own personal opinion with Lost Vape mods that I have owned.

I believe there is much better out in the market for $150.00 to $200.00 bucks.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

I owned all of these in the last 2 years and all ended getting trashed.
713b6683198099951f4db18f15695707.jpg
038f02ce6821e7a3c7c7929c4cdee382.jpg
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I really don't like any DNA mods. I've had lousy luck with DNAs breaking down over not so long a period of time. Much rather another chip. I've owned Lost Vape mods (probably 6 or 7 models). I've also owned a slewm of high end DNA20, DNA 30s, DNA40. On the lower end of power Provari and Dicodes and Starplat last forever. Not DNAs. You can get many reliable 200+ mods today if that is what you are after. I have too be honest though. I primarily vape on mechs. Even my MTL vapes are small mechs ... some with mosfets but chips can often be removed.
 

MannyScoot

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I really don't like any DNA mods. I've had lousy luck with DNAs breaking down over not so long a period of time. Much rather another chip. I've owned Lost Vape mods (probably 6 or 7 models). I've also owned a slewm of high end DNA20, DNA 30s, DNA40. On the lower end of power Provari and Dicodes and Starplat last forever. Not DNAs. You can get many reliable 200+ mods today if that is what you are after. I have too be honest though. I primarily vape on mechs. Even my MTL vapes are small mechs ... some with mosfets but chips can often be removed.
Dicodes are great mods.....With me they have to be tough to last..... I use my woodies at home..... This Mozaic Java mod has the Yihi 485J chip
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Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 

f1r3b1rd

https://cookingwithlegs.com/
Staff member
Senior Moderator
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
VU Challenge Team
Member For 5 Years
VU Patreon
Ahh the Axial huh. They sell parts for color variations but I can't remember where. I got a red cap set a while back

Sent from a pile of wood chips
https://arkansaseliquid.com/
Sells them.. or at least did.

Just trying it out.
the goon25 rocks on it, but I have need to compare :giggle:
 

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