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The Official Stagger/Fuse Thread

zephyr

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Is it bending off the spool meg or what?

Yes. I heard it comes off the spool straight like Kidney Puncher - but mine comes off Wavy, not consistently curved but more wacky. Hard to straighten, too, and straightening leads to at least one strand being noticeably angled/ twisted

So screwed if I straighten, screwed if I don't :cuss2:
 

MrMeowgi

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Yes. I heard it comes off the spool straight like Kidney Puncher - but mine comes off Wavy, not consistently curved but more wacky. Hard to straighten, too, and straightening leads to at least one strand being noticeably angled/ twisted

So screwed if I straighten, screwed if I don't :cuss2:
So you don't stretch your ribbon? Or do you mean just straighten

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zephyr

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So you don't stretch your ribbon? Or do you mean just straighten

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I stretch Kbee ribbon to straighten it; I have tried both stretching to straighten and not stretching Coil Society ribbon, either way it's not easy to work with
 

CrazyChef v2.0

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I really dont like this coil society ribbon
Interesting. I only had one problem with it before I switched over to all Sandvik. They sent me a spool that was wound with maybe 400ft, then an additional 100ft to make a 500ft roll like I ordered. Well, it snagged all over the place, and they made it right when I brought it to their attention. Other than that, the quality was always pretty good. Unfortunately, their 36, 38, 40g N80 isn't much better than Lightning Vapes's wire
 

CrazyChef v2.0

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Yes. I heard it comes off the spool straight like Kidney Puncher - but mine comes off Wavy, not consistently curved but more wacky. Hard to straighten, too, and straightening leads to at least one strand being noticeably angled/ twisted
You should contact them about it. I've never had anything but straight ribbon from them. Never anything crooked, wavy, etc. Well, except for the one roll I mentioned above.
 

Branpro

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Gentlemen, tonight I witnessed and learned the easiest staggering technique to date, thanks to a guy on instagram named probee300

Wrap some spacing wire between your first manual spaces, two rotations or so, tighten the lot of the two wires, and put on a mini clothespin
Interesting, I’ll have to try that this weekend. Y’all know I’m a staggering junky, lol. Anything that works better or faster, I’m game.
 

raymo2u

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Ive had the same view on building since the beginning.

Its not a skill your born with, its learned. This means anyone with motivation and time can do it with practice. There is always a easier way, try looking at the problem from a different perspective and find a work around. The best way to build is the way that uses the smallest bit of effort/time with the most functionality.

If a build is hard and your failing a certain part or area, walk away. Come back and assess what it causing the issue and determine if its the way your holding a fuse/decore or is it the way the wire is attached. If everything looks perfect and thats not the issue then try again and examine how much tension your using as tension is the main culprit in many issues.

You want paraclap to be laid as close to 90 degrees as possible. Make sure before laying paraclap or decore you wash your hands with soap, this allows the wire to slip through your fingers easier and that reduces unwanted tension....which is a large problem for aliens and staggering. When laying paraclap the paraclap needs to be laid as close to perfect through the entire length as you can, any moment where tension is added or taken the angle of the paraclap changes on a microscopic scale. This is what causes you to weave later, as the difference gradually becomes a problem as you fuse, the more times the angle was changed when laying paraclap-the more of a pain in the ass it will be later. Consistency is what you want and it takes practice.

Make sure you wash your hands beforehand.
Make sure your wire pulls off your spool without catching or snagging
Remember to keep your angle as close to 90 as possible (paraclap)
Be consistent with tension the whole way through, any time your wire dips from pinch tension-your paraclap angle changes for that moment
Make sure your swivels are clean and spin freely, if your ribbon is twisting too much when para-clapping it, that also can change the angle.
Go your own speed, dont rush any part of it....good results are worth taking your time.
 
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I think I'm gonna try SSFCs again tonight, any advice on what size frames I should use for .3 ribbon? Was planning on using 28ga but I almost wonder if that's too big. Had had issues with the frames trying to triangle up on me, might start using more clothespins and doing them one coil at a time (so like, starting with 5 inches of ribbon and frames only need 3.5-4 for the actual coils, but that gives me some extra room to work with if one end fuses better or something).
 

MrMeowgi

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I think I'm gonna try SSFCs again tonight, any advice on what size frames I should use for .3 ribbon? Was planning on using 28ga but I almost wonder if that's too big. Had had issues with the frames trying to triangle up on me, might start using more clothespins and doing them one coil at a time (so like, starting with 5 inches of ribbon and frames only need 3.5-4 for the actual coils, but that gives me some extra room to work with if one end fuses better or something).
I'm working on ssfc today as well. I've only ever got one good coil. I use 28 for .3 and .4 I think that is about the Norm

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KingPin!

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I'll try that then. Maybe that why I have issues. I know pre is the key though.

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Worth a try for sure ....although I’m sure I’ve seen some say they use 30g with 0.3 ribbon before just found these two work pretty good for me
 

zephyr

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I think I'm gonna try SSFCs again tonight, any advice on what size frames I should use for .3 ribbon? Was planning on using 28ga but I almost wonder if that's too big. Had had issues with the frames trying to triangle up on me, might start using more clothespins and doing them one coil at a time (so like, starting with 5 inches of ribbon and frames only need 3.5-4 for the actual coils, but that gives me some extra room to work with if one end fuses better or something).

Hey, I think I know you :question:welcome to VU :D

You can use 28, 30, I've even used 26 before - 30 will make it look closest to the same size after fusing

if you loop the frame through a hair pin/paper clip in the drill first, then pull tight and loop through the swivel, you might get by without any clothespins :0
 
Hey, I think I know you :question:welcome to VU :D

Haha yeah I messaged you on IG when I was indecisive the other morning, the SFCs came out ok, haven't vaped them yet.

Thanks for the advice everyone! Have to make a single frailien then I'll work on the SSFC, I'll let you know how it goes and post pics if it turns out well enough to mount.
 
So it didn't turn out that well :/

I'll attempt some more tomorrow, but as a consolation prize, I mounted it and it coloured up nicely and tastes great.

My spacing was screwed up on one or both frames, seemed like one was twice as spaced as the other. They came from the same piece of 28 I spaced with the double loop method.

Photos are too big for the forum apparently, I'll upload them on IG
 

zephyr

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So it didn't turn out that well :/

I'll attempt some more tomorrow, but as a consolation prize, I mounted it and it coloured up nicely and tastes great.

My spacing was screwed up on one or both frames, seemed like one was twice as spaced as the other. They came from the same piece of 28 I spaced with the double loop method.

Photos are too big for the forum apparently, I'll upload them on IG

Yeah, the forum's limit is around 1mb per picture, sometimes a little over

Is this your first SSFC? It's awesome that you at least completed it and get to vape it! That's two wins, in my book
 

Carambrda

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I think I'm gonna try SSFCs again tonight, any advice on what size frames I should use for .3 ribbon? Was planning on using 28ga but I almost wonder if that's too big. Had had issues with the frames trying to triangle up on me, might start using more clothespins and doing them one coil at a time (so like, starting with 5 inches of ribbon and frames only need 3.5-4 for the actual coils, but that gives me some extra room to work with if one end fuses better or something).
Yeah, I've had the same issues with the frames while using a dozen or so mini clothespins on a ~12″ strand so I ended up cutting away the ribbon stack turning them into a regular SFC build. Was using 8ply .1×.3 Ni80 ribbon and 29g Ni80 frames with 36g Ni80 wrap on that attempt... thing is, you need to find a way to stop the frames from getting pulled on top of the ribbon stack, and, IME putting less tension on the 36g wrap wire is not a viable solution that works so what I'll try next is I'll put a key ring on just the ribbon stack, with a guide attached to the key ring to hold the frames in such a way that they get pulled next to the ribbon stack instead of always getting pulled on top of it.
 

zephyr

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I was also just using them to keep it flat. But it kept wanting to triangle up still nevertheless.

I would recommend a large gauge ribbon slider (0.4, 0.5) placed on loosely (pinched very gently) or aluminum foil folded over twices then wrapped around, rather than clothes pins. Either can be slid down the stick as you go without disturbing or strangling the staggering on the frames.

The lower the gauge of the stagger, the larger gauge your ribbon slider will need to be to prevent it from digging in. For 36g, just use foil
 

Carambrda

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I would recommend a large gauge ribbon slider (0.4, 0.5) placed on loosely (pinched very gently) or aluminum foil folded over twices then wrapped around, rather than clothes pins. Either can be slid down the stick as you go without disturbing or strangling the staggering on the frames.

The lower the gauge of the stagger, the larger gauge your ribbon slider will need to be to prevent it from digging in. For 36g, just use foil
My clothespins weren't disturbing nor strangling the staggering on my frames. The problem I was experiencing was that 29g Ni80 is just so incredibly weak it just helixes itself around the ribbon stack almost immediately despite the clothespins were spaced like less than an inch apart.
 

zephyr

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I tried a cheating staggering technique and it worked perfectly - this time

I claptoned exactly half the length then loosened and stretched the clapton and glued at both ends

Then I used the looping frames method raymo showed me, set it all up, used a .4 ribbon slider and voila, two 6 wrap coils - the final fusing was not perfect because I went very fast (I have to leave in 10 minutes)

IMG_20180716_114541~2.jpg
 

zephyr

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That's exactly how I ended up doing it, but it still didn't work. I haven't tried to build another coil for almost 2 months now, mostly because of that. lol

@Pegleg Meg
View attachment 115838


My next video project will be this build; I will use 29 or 30g frames and 36g wrap wire to show how it can work out without going super slow or having the frames collapse
 

Severinomotta

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People, help.

I'm having a really hard time to make the staggered fused claptons.

I'm using the shirt bottom method to space clapton. The wire seems ok.

I see people loosen the clapton before put the wires together for the final wrap.

But some people hold the end of the clapton and trigger the drill in reverse. Others unwrap the beginning of clapton that is in the chuck and just hold the end of the core wire and give a drill spin in the same way they claptoned it. So. I don't even know the best method to loosen the spaced clapton.

Then, even when i get a nice spaced clapton, put them together and try to make the final wrap i cant get not more than 2 inches of consistent staggared fused clapton. The final wire always overlaps one space or jump another and i end up with a shitty shitty wire...

Can you guys give me tips to loosen the spaced clapton and then how wrap the two spaced claptons cores, please?

Look how crappy staggered im making...

Save Ferris, please Save Ferris :) (Thats a joke for those who's 35 or older, lol)
 

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zephyr

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People, help.

I'm having a really hard time to make the staggered fused claptons.

I'm using the shirt bottom method to space clapton. The wire seems ok.

I see people loosen the clapton before put the wires together for the final wrap.

But some people hold the end of the clapton and trigger the drill in reverse. Others unwrap the beginning of clapton that is in the chuck and just hold the end of the core wire and give a drill spin in the same way they claptoned it. So. I don't even know the best method to loosen the spaced clapton.

Then, even when i get a nice spaced clapton, put them together and try to make the final wrap i cant get not more than 2 inches of consistent staggared fused clapton. The final wire always overlaps one space or jump another and i end up with a shitty shitty wire...

Can you guys give me tips to loosen the spaced clapton and then how wrap the two spaced claptons cores, please?

Look how crappy staggered im making...

Save Ferris, please Save Ferris :) (Thats a joke for those who's 35 or older, lol)

I tape my clapton wire to the chuck before I begin, and after am done I cut and pinch the end of the clapton on its core, then reverse the drill for just a bit

This I think is the fastest and least troublesome way
 

Severinomotta

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Sorry to keep on bothering PegLeg, just to make sense to me:

1. Put the core in the chuck of the drill and start to clapton.
2. Take it out of the chuck and tape it, so the clapton stay firm in the core. Use something like a masking tape to it(?)
3. Proceed to the spaced clapton method you like the best (shirt bottom, loop holding with finger, mother fudger, etc)..
4. When the space clapton is finished you cut the clapton wire out of the spool.
5. The clapton will automatically unclapton it self a little bit.
6. With plyers you pinch this piece of clapton wire that automatically unclaptoned itself. You do this while the core wire is still fixed to the swivel.
7. While pinching the end of clapton wire, and just the clapton wire, not the core or anything else, you trigger the drill in rever mode for a few seconds. In this step you don't pull the clapton wire, just pinch it and don`t move your hand.
8. Take the hoje wire out of the drill, cut the piece with the masking tape.
9. Cut the end of the wire that were in the swivel.
10. You have a spaced clapton wire that will be cut in half (or passed through the swivel with the two ends getting into the chuck) and ready to become a fused staggered.

Is that it?

Another thing, and this for everybody. Once i have a pair os spaced claptons, how in da hell i can fuse them together with out lossing spaces or overlaping a few? As i said, one or two inches get real good, but the rest os my wire always end uo with holes or wires doubled in the claptons spaces... As in the in my post above...
 
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WPMac

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I'm going to throw in my 2 cents. I find, for getting good clean stags, force fusing WAY easier than any other method I've seen out there. I leaned this from Mr Devine's (n.devine83) youtube whilst making my way into interlocks. It's and easy way to parallel clap without the hassle of 2 spools (or pulling off a length if you only have 1 spool). Had a private convo with someone today and figured I'd share for others.

This stag was done with a 32g core and 40g clap

Run a clap 1/2 way down your core and snip it long. Then flip the drill in reverse, grab the snip and run it for a couple of seconds. This loosens up the claps. To be sure they are loose enough just grab them near the chuck and see if they slide back and forth, freely, on the core.
Put your drill back in forward and start another clapton, at the chuck end, between the first clapton.
Using a good amount of fuse tension run the second clapton parallel to the first. If you've loosened the first run well, and are using enough fuse tension, it should slide in without any trouble.
As you run the second set of claps the first one will slow push forawrd. Once you get to the end of the first run you should have some core wire left. At this point you need to slow down to make sure you get past the snipped lead without tangling in it. Once your past it, bare down as hard as you dare (without breaking the wire or your swivels, ect ...) all the way to the end to lock them in place so they don't bounce back.
Now just grab the snipped lead, put your drill in reverse, and pull the lead off. DO NOT let the tnesion go on the wire your pulling untill it's off. Otherwise it may get tangled up and ruin the whole thing. Now you should have a nice staggered wire reade for use! :D



IMG_20180909_162246_1.jpg IMG_20180909_163427_0.jpg IMG_20180909_163830_0.jpg IMG_20180909_164640_0.jpg IMG_20180909_165022_0.jpg
 

zephyr

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Sorry to keep on bothering PegLeg, just to make sense to me:

1. Put the core in the chuck of the drill and start to clapton.
2. Take it out of the chuck and tape it, so the clapton stay firm in the core. Use something like a masking tape to it(?)
3. Proceed to the spaced clapton method you like the best (shirt bottom, loop holding with finger, mother fudger, etc)..
4. When the space clapton is finished you cut the clapton wire out of the spool.
5. The clapton will automatically unclapton it self a little bit.
6. With plyers you pinch this piece of clapton wire that automatically unclaptoned itself. You do this while the core wire is still fixed to the swivel.
7. While pinching the end of clapton wire, and just the clapton wire, not the core or anything else, you trigger the drill in rever mode for a few seconds. In this step you don't pull the clapton wire, just pinch it and don`t move your hand.
8. Take the hoje wire out of the drill, cut the piece with the masking tape.
9. Cut the end of the wire that were in the swivel.
10. You have a spaced clapton wire that will be cut in half (or passed through the swivel with the two ends getting into the chuck) and ready to become a fused staggered.

Is that it?

Another thing, and this for everybody. Once i have a pair os spaced claptons, how in da hell i can fuse them together with out lossing spaces or overlaping a few? As i said, one or two inches get real good, but the rest os my wire always end uo with holes or wires doubled in the claptons spaces... As in the in my post above...


No! Keep it simpler -

1. Keep your core in the drill the entire time.

2. When you begin your clapton, tape your wrap wire to the chuck

3. Use your spacing technique, doesnt matter which technique

4. Make your spaced clapton

5. Clip your wrap wire, Only on the end (Not near the chuck) and do Not cut the core

6. Pinch wrap wire on the core and reverse drill for a moment

7. Now you can cut the wrap wire at the chuck end, and slide it to the middle of your core if you like, then remove core for your next step in building
 

MrMeowgi

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I swear tying a loop of wire around has got to be easier then all that guys. But y'all build better than I so to each their own. Maybe that my issue as well. Not listening to what I'm told.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 

WPMac

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Another thing, and this for everybody. Once i have a pair os spaced claptons, how in da hell i can fuse them together with out lossing spaces or overlaping a few? As i said, one or two inches get real good, but the rest os my wire always end uo with holes or wires doubled in the claptons spaces... As in the in my post above...

Well for overlapping and/or missing placement of your fuse between the stags, just slow down while fusing. Take your time ... stop all together and move your fuse wire into place if needed.
For getting double fuse between stag spaces (if your using a method that leaves the stags loose on the core) then you can just compress the clapton wire towards the chuck a bit.
 

zephyr

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I swear tying a loop of wire around has got to be easier then all that guys. But y'all build better than I so to each their own. Maybe that my issue as well. Not listening to what I'm told.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


I'm just talkin bout how to loosen the clapton after its done, that's all :D
 

WPMac

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I swear tying a loop of wire around has got to be easier then all that guys. But y'all build better than I so to each their own. Maybe that my issue as well. Not listening to what I'm told.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
There are extremely good builders out there who use any of the loop methods. I tried for months to get it to work for me. And sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't. But, for some reason or another, it's just not consistent for me. I've spent to much time and wasted to much wire. So I use what I know works. It's more involved and time consuming, but less time consuming than getting an in depth build all prepped up only to find my stags aren't cooperating. ;)
 

MrMeowgi

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There are extremely good builders out there who use any of the loop methods. I tried for months to get it to work for me. And sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't. But, for some reason or another, it's just not consistent for me. I've spent to much time and wasted to much wire. So I use what I know works. It's more involved and time consuming, but less time consuming than getting an in depth build all prepped up only to find my stags aren't cooperating. ;)
Oh yea I know what you mean. Get all prepped and it's misaligned. I love how staple variation vape but have the hardest time building them.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 

Severinomotta

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No! Keep it simpler -

1. Keep your core in the drill the entire time.

2. When you begin your clapton, tape your wrap wire to the chuck

3. Use your spacing technique, doesnt matter which technique

4. Make your spaced clapton

5. Clip your wrap wire, Only on the end (Not near the chuck) and do Not cut the core

6. Pinch wrap wire on the core and reverse drill for a moment

7. Now you can cut the wrap wire at the chuck end, and slide it to the middle of your core if you like, then remove core for your next step in building
Understood :) thanks
 

Severinomotta

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Hey you guys. Me again, with more bother and questions for you guys...

I think im making ok staggered claptons with 32g or even 36g (this one not so good yet, but useable).

So i took the next step and tryed to make staple staggered fused claptons.

It makes me wanna cry.

1) How in da hell do you guys stack your ribbons?

2) When i try to put all together and wrap, the staggered claptons kind of roll and I end up with a triangle with the ribbon as a base and the two staggered on top. So, if i wrap this, a have a very very weird round wire of like 10g (lol).

Any tips to help?

PS: i tryed toput paper clips to hold all together, but seems that they kind of crash my staggered claptons... And, as you guys know, i live in Brazil, whe dont have those mini clothes catcher alike theat i saw in some videos...

Other thing, and this is for @Pegleg Meg and other pro builders.

I manage to make a fused staggered claton with 28g core and 40 g clapton/wrap. I think it was just lucky, because i couldn't even seen the spaces between the staggered clapton. I thought. Ow shi*** this went wrong oh so wrong. But i decided to wrap it anyway. And the MTF wraped itself beautifully and i end up with a really nice fused staggered clapton with 28g cores and 40g clapton/wrap!!!!! (to me this is hell too thin) wire.

Life is strange.

Best,
 
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chrisakasparky

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Member For 4 Years
I'm going to throw in my 2 cents. I find, for getting good clean stags, force fusing WAY easier than any other method I've seen out there. I leaned this from Mr Devine's (n.devine83) youtube whilst making my way into interlocks. It's and easy way to parallel clap without the hassle of 2 spools (or pulling off a length if you only have 1 spool). Had a private convo with someone today and figured I'd share for others.

This stag was done with a 32g core and 40g clap

Run a clap 1/2 way down your core and snip it long. Then flip the drill in reverse, grab the snip and run it for a couple of seconds. This loosens up the claps. To be sure they are loose enough just grab them near the chuck and see if they slide back and forth, freely, on the core.
Put your drill back in forward and start another clapton, at the chuck end, between the first clapton.
Using a good amount of fuse tension run the second clapton parallel to the first. If you've loosened the first run well, and are using enough fuse tension, it should slide in without any trouble.
As you run the second set of claps the first one will slow push forawrd. Once you get to the end of the first run you should have some core wire left. At this point you need to slow down to make sure you get past the snipped lead without tangling in it. Once your past it, bare down as hard as you dare (without breaking the wire or your swivels, ect ...) all the way to the end to lock them in place so they don't bounce back.
Now just grab the snipped lead, put your drill in reverse, and pull the lead off. DO NOT let the tnesion go on the wire your pulling untill it's off. Otherwise it may get tangled up and ruin the whole thing. Now you should have a nice staggered wire reade for use! :D



View attachment 119418 View attachment 119419 View attachment 119420 View attachment 119421 View attachment 119422

Tired this the other day. Waaay easier than loops and buttons! I made a sfc I just ripped it on the drill and everything was perfect.
 

raymo2u

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1) How in da hell do you guys stack your ribbons?

2) When i try to put all together and wrap, the staggered claptons kind of roll and I end up with a triangle with the ribbon as a base and the two staggered on top. So, if i wrap this, a have a very very weird round wire of like 10g (lol).

Any tips to help?

1.) Cut all your Ribbon and set it together, drop a glob of Eliquid on your fingers and slide it up and down all the ribbon, grabb one end about an inch from the end of the gathered ribbon and lift into the air and tilt it so the wide side of the ribbon is parallel to the ground. This will stack all the ribbon on top of each other just from gravity, just pinch the sides and slide your fingers down to ensure they are all perfectly stacked. Then cut the ends flush and carefully set it down with a bit hanging off the edge for an easy way to grab them again.
I made a video that shows what I mean here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByjxYyTSvEyBOFRwS1JZMG1kZVk/view?usp=sharing

2.) I use Ribbon Sliders and Pinching with Nylon Pliers every few wraps. Take a strand of Ribbon about 2 Inches long and Loosely wrap it around your wires, VERY LIGHTLY pinch it with Nylon pliers. This will make a band that locks everything together. I make 3-4 of them and space them down the wire, keeping 2 of them closer to each other where you are working (keep one within 1/4" of where you are fusing). Remember to pinch the fused portion every 5-8 fuses. .4 Ribbon or larger works best.

9303a0208779af6e0f3bfe7b12cb7a34.jpg
3653dae8194e47e5ee698734f0f36fc6.jpg
8d5b4234f6fb463b14b8504dcd4eed22.jpg
d148ae10f4fce0e4a298f7ad59ed5216.jpg



Hope this helps.
 

Severinomotta

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1.) Cut all your Ribbon and set it together, drop a glob of Eliquid on your fingers and slide it up and down all the ribbon, grabb one end about an inch from the end of the gathered ribbon and lift into the air and tilt it so the wide side of the ribbon is parallel to the ground. This will stack all the ribbon on top of each other just from gravity, just pinch the sides and slide your fingers down to ensure they are all perfectly stacked. Then cut the ends flush and carefully set it down with a bit hanging off the edge for an easy way to grab them again.
I made a video that shows what I mean here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByjxYyTSvEyBOFRwS1JZMG1kZVk/view?usp=sharing

2.) I use Ribbon Sliders and Pinching with Nylon Pliers every few wraps. Take a strand of Ribbon about 2 Inches long and Loosely wrap it around your wires, VERY LIGHTLY pinch it with Nylon pliers. This will make a band that locks everything together. I make 3-4 of them and space them down the wire, keeping 2 of them closer to each other where you are working (keep one within 1/4" of where you are fusing). Remember to pinch the fused portion every 5-8 fuses. .4 Ribbon or larger works best.

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Hope this helps.
You're "the man".
It helps A LOT.
Oh. If you have more vids like this, please share.
Thanks
 
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