Not the point though really...I rely on the Opus to keep me aware of my batt's capability.
I wasn't saying that battery had xxx mAh, just saying I don't know if it doesn't tell me.
Most of my batteries are OLD and far less than stated capacity. But, the vapes I run are nearly all regulated and mebbe 0.3-0.8 ohm at under 40W. I don't know the status of anything except I keep the old crap in certain cases and know not to use them in higher power situations. Married batts stay that way too. Not difficult.
I never vape one vape all day nor do I go much of anywhere, if I do I bring certain mods for it.
Should i throw out nearly all of my batteries since 2014 and buy new ones all the time?
Sure...give me the money to vape like you guys.
I have 18 mods in front of me just in this room and I might pick one up take a vape and mebbe use another the next. I don't need power or runtime. But, I do need to know when I charge a battery, what it's status is. As it is with the new thing, I have no idea except voltage.
I should've just gotten another Opus.
First let me say, I didn't want to come off as if I was patronizing, you like the Opus, I am no one but an avid vaper who owns both the chargers in conversation.
I would like to ask you what the Opus does that the ALL-44 doesn't for you?
I can infer, from the previous chat that you liked the total mAh charged and I will guess you like the internal resistance function to help determine a cells worthiness.
I will say, that the charge-discharge-charge function of the Opus is lacking... it read many of my 30Ts as replenishing 3500mAh... which is funny, since they are only 3000mAh batteries.
I also found the battery charge termination better on the ALL-44 than the Opus... and read on lyte forums the reviews of both, which the main reason I got the ALL-44 besides being a sub $30 charger, was for the termination and charge algorithm was better than the Opus... two things as a mech user I find beneficial...
I also found the internal resistance test on the Opus to not be at all accurate... it was nice to use as a base line the first two times, but when I test my cells, and then a few months later test them and their resistance is lower, I know its fubar
( I vape .08-.10Ω aka 52a or 42a)
Which is why I said, voltage was really only thing needed to know... and I'll explain why.
If I know the cells new are 3000mAh... I care less <ok thats the summation> reason being, even if in a regulated vaping away at 40w or double that at 80w... I am not worried about mAh, I worry more about amp rating and or voltage rebound.
80w/2 batteries = 40w
40w/3.2v cutoff = 12.5a
12.5a/ efficiency (most mods are generalized at 85% unless a DNA200/250+ which is 97%) .85 = 14.7a per battery.
If I chose a higher mAh battery over amp capable at the above wattages, I will never utilize the full mAh before I get the "Check Battery" prompt, which if I stick on the charger at that point, it would more than likely be above the 3.2v cutoff... which is where I said, what else besides voltage do you need to know? Sort of goes hand in hand with the amp rating using watts law above.
And as you wanting to know if using your older batteries in higher wattage settings safely... the rested voltage is a good indicator at cell degradation... Charge up some cells, see where they land a few days later... if its significantly lower than 4.19v, good sign its lost some of its oompf, but regardless, a regulated mod will draw the voltage its wattage call is asking for to the cutoff value set or preset... which the mod doesn't care about the mAh its rated or the total mAh its recently charged... mod only cares about the voltage call at the wattage set, Which is why I always suggest the higher amp rated battery over the total mAh...
Now the other side of the spectrum are those that vape low wattages... there is no real benefit to getting lets say a Molicel P26A 2600mAh 25a battery, vs lets say a Sanyo NCR-GA 3300mAh 10a battery... if you know you are vaping sub 15w... you will probably benefit from that extra mAh, although still probably not the total 700 extra due to voltage sag.
No need to get new batteries, unless you abuse them, or their way past their prime cycle life... which to me, rested voltage can help tell you.
I am sure there are other ways, from those more entrenched in the intricacies of batteries... but vaping where I do on mechs... rested voltage is a strong indicator on top of how warm they get and lastly their age on how I utilize them...
I cycled out 20+ 30Ts cause they abnormally heat soaked the mechs I used them in... and they all sit at 4.17v+... and just a lil patronizing
I didn't need my Opus to tell me it was time for them... 42a+ abuse and the heat generated was more than enough.
Wish I had a dual/triple regulated mod that was worth a shit... I use those cycled out 30Ts in them since the duty call would be so low... but for single cell mech use... pass
.... at least I've got my own Nic only funnel that's perfect for the job...
