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Tobeco Super Tank
- Thread starter Rhyno636
- Start date
On the left is how many have come, and on the right is how they should be. Even the spare that came with a tank of mine was seated improperly. Like I said, no biggie to fix, but just be aware when installing.
I have NEVER had liquid leak through the airhole however. Actually, I've never had a leak from these tanks at all. (except a very big leak when the oring wasn't seated correctly, but that was very obvious)
No idea why too. It just leak.
Well crap, I've been putting them around the insulator. Up at the top of the threads is where it was when I was having trouble earlier today...No leaks with them seated around the insulator. I'm starting to wonder how necessary the o-ring is.
Are yo guys able to close the tank with the coil inside ? The airhole and the tank?
It will probably work without the oring, but I do think it's important to be there. I recommend you look at your other coils to see where the oring is on them to get a better understanding.
Mine leaked on the first tank too. It turned out to be the coil wasn't screwed all the way in the chimney. Once I screwed it into the chimney then put the base one it was good to go. Already have 30 ml through the first .2 ohm coil. Best tank I have. Thank you guys for all the reviews and pics in this thread, made the decision way easier.
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Not the original, but you can with the mini.
I prefer to screw the coil into the base first, then the chimney. Whatever works though. I also don't crank it down because it can be a bitch to take apart when needed.
I need help..it keeps leaking. Could it be the coil? Even before i vape, it alr leak through the tank between the bottom
Every single one has had the o-ring loosely around the air inlets at the bottom and I've moved it up to the insulator. I've only been through a total of 3 though (counting the Ni200 from the past 2 days) but they have been working fine. I'll move the o-ring on my Kanthal full size (unless its moving itself as I screw it in) and see what happens. Thanks for the help!
Need to figure this out before I ruin more Ni200 coils.
Sure, swap the coil. Make sure the orings are right and everything is screwed together. It should work out for ya
I really hope so. Cos i tried 2 coils. And had the same issue. Must i close the air flow first before top filling or anything ?
Ipvd2 and a super tank. It isnt with me right now. I used 2 coils and it still leaking
Something isn't screwed in tight. (But don't go too tight!)
I cant figure out what isnt tight. It is leaking bear the tank. Between the tank and btm
Angelcigs carries this super tank with silver and black color !!!
Is there an oring in the bottom piece? The piece where the airhole is at
I can't really see the picture, but if it's the oring that comes in contact with the tank then you're pretty much fucked. You might be able to use a standard black oring, but I'm not sure that would work. You can find them at most hardware stores. I bought a kit from harbor freight that had like 200 pieces for like $8.
Yeah looks like you've lost (or got shorted) the seal that goes between the top of the tank and the top cap. Its a funky shape with a lip so a direct replacement would need to come from Tobeco. That sucks. I've almost washed so many of those down the drain it's not funny.
Well TC and I certainly aren't getting along. Washed out the tank, put in a new Ni200 coil. Made sure the o-ring was where @Rhyno636 put his. Let the mod sit for a minute and locked it in at 0.17 ohms (yay). Filled the tank and let it sit for 30 min. Set it to 350F and 30J. Didn't get much vapor so upped it to 400F and 40J. Got vapor but there wasn't much flavor and it was harsh on my throat. Tried to vape through the pain hoping it would come to life but gave up.
Put in a 0.2 ohm Kanthal coil and let it soak for about 30 min. Went to vape it and got a nasty dry hit. Not sure what was up with that. It was super angry like the D2 was reading a high resistance but it wasn't. Put the big Super tank on the D2 to make sure it was working correctly, all good. D2 is still not the problem. The Mini calmed down and started vaping fine after that. Chalked it up to the juice not wicking fully until some heat was applied?
Before putting the Kanthal coil in I did try to drip a little juice down into the coil to speed wicking and noticed that these wicks aren't super absorbent. The juice sits on top of the cotton instead of soaking in. Its weird that they wick so well once they get going. I guess that's why it doesn't gurgle or flood.
I'm going to just use the Kanthal coils until some more people use the Ni coils in the super tanks and tell me exactly what to do.
Put in a 0.2 ohm Kanthal coil and let it soak for about 30 min. Went to vape it and got a nasty dry hit. Not sure what was up with that. It was super angry like the D2 was reading a high resistance but it wasn't. Put the big Super tank on the D2 to make sure it was working correctly, all good. D2 is still not the problem. The Mini calmed down and started vaping fine after that. Chalked it up to the juice not wicking fully until some heat was applied?
Before putting the Kanthal coil in I did try to drip a little juice down into the coil to speed wicking and noticed that these wicks aren't super absorbent. The juice sits on top of the cotton instead of soaking in. Its weird that they wick so well once they get going. I guess that's why it doesn't gurgle or flood.
I'm going to just use the Kanthal coils until some more people use the Ni coils in the super tanks and tell me exactly what to do.
I fixed my problem . Vaping .2 ni coils. 30 joules. 350f max. Doing great.
Fill the tank and let it sit for 15 minutes before you lock it in! It can make a huge differenceWell TC and I certainly aren't getting along. Washed out the tank, put in a new Ni200 coil. Made sure the o-ring was where @Rhyno636 put his. Let the mod sit for a minute and locked it in at 0.17 ohms (yay). Filled the tank and let it sit for 30 min. Set it to 350F and 30J. Didn't get much vapor so upped it to 400F and 40J. Got vapor but there wasn't much flavor and it was harsh on my throat. Tried to vape through the pain hoping it would come to life but gave up.
Put in a 0.2 ohm Kanthal coil and let it soak for about 30 min. Went to vape it and got a nasty dry hit. Not sure what was up with that. It was super angry like the D2 was reading a high resistance but it wasn't. Put the big Super tank on the D2 to make sure it was working correctly, all good. D2 is still not the problem. The Mini calmed down and started vaping fine after that. Chalked it up to the juice not wicking fully until some heat was applied?
Before putting the Kanthal coil in I did try to drip a little juice down into the coil to speed wicking and noticed that these wicks aren't super absorbent. The juice sits on top of the cotton instead of soaking in. Its weird that they wick so well once they get going. I guess that's why it doesn't gurgle or flood.
I'm going to just use the Kanthal coils until some more people use the Ni coils in the super tanks and tell me exactly what to do.
Oh... Didn't think of that. I think I locked it in, then filled then waited.Fill the tank and let it sit for 15 minutes before you lock it in! It can make a huge difference
Thanks Amanda! Could you go ahead and preempt the next 3 TC mistakes I'm going to make and keep me from making them? That would be great.
Oh... Didn't think of that. I think I locked it in, then filled then waited.
Thanks Amanda! Could you go ahead and preempt the next 3 TC mistakes I'm going to make and keep me from making them? That would be great.
LOL!! (I'm sure I made all the mistakes too!)
The base is exposed to access the coil by threading the chimney off the top of the coil. The hex key was included by accident. It is the same key that is used by the Super Tank RDA which comes in the same size box. My first ones came the same way. The last ones didn't have the hex key.
Now, I have installed a .2 ohm Ni200 coil from the box I purchased. It's not worth a freakin' damn in TC mode...
Calibrates all over the place on my D2 and M class. like from to .25-.38 ohms. (wtf???) Running @ 32-46J and 480f limit. There's just nothin' there... no flavor, no nutin'.
The vape is super weak at normal settings.
The SuperTank is the first tank I've bought that is a disappointment.
The .2 is not nickel. Its kanthal.
Now, I have installed a .2 ohm Ni200 coil from the box I purchased. It's not worth a freakin' damn in TC mode...
Calibrates all over the place on my D2 and M class. like from to .25-.38 ohms. (wtf???) Running @ 32-46J and 480f limit. There's just nothin' there... no flavor, no nutin'.
The vape is super weak at normal settings.
The SuperTank is the first tank I've bought that is a disappointment.
The .2 is not nickel. Its kanthal.
There is no use for the hex key. Mine didn't come with one, and there is not a grub screw on either the mini or the original to accept it.
Also, there is no such thing as a supertank RDA. That's actually an oxymoron. "Tank" is in the name. Although I have seen them referred to as "super tank RDA" on one site.
Also, there is no such thing as a supertank RDA. That's actually an oxymoron. "Tank" is in the name. Although I have seen them referred to as "super tank RDA" on one site.
There are always variations in stock coil resistances both nickle and kanthal. I have seen the same atty read different on top of various mods all at room temp. Lot friends on the 510 connections and the atty internal connection. My sig 75 always,reads,a few tenths high. My ivp 3 reads all a little low from the stick rating. As long as you are close to the rating your ok. Just adjust temp up till you get to you sweet spot
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Did you lock in the resistance at room temperature? In the future buy the .1 ohm Ni200 if you plan to use them with a Yihi tc device. Closer to the ideal resistance provides significantly better results.Thanks. I'm just confused as to why there is no visible difference between the two.
Update. After 15 minutes in front of the AC, and very cold to the touch I finally got the .2 Ni200 coil head resistance to read
as low as .232 ohm. At least this gives me enough heat to break in the coil.
After this tank I'm gonna take it apart & check connections in the base. This can't be right.
The vape is good but I can't refrigerate a tank every time I need to get an accurate resistance.
No idea why does my ipvd2 reada 0.13 when i preset it at room temperature. But however after vaping it went to 0.26. And stays at 0.26 forever.
I tried another ni200 coil tonight. Still no dice. Couldn't lock the 0.15 ohm coil in any lower than 0.205. Didn't try to fire it. Put the kanthal coil back in and vaped.
Coils aren't manufactured precisely. If you lock it without firing it first, you should be good to go. Lock it in, then you should be good to go.
Once it's locked, don't hit those two buttons again. I set it to 50 joules and around 450F degrees and it works as it should.
Technically, that's not very far off than it should be anyway. You're thrown off because of the extra digit. Its only reading .055 off, which is actually very minimal.
I've used the ni200, the .2, and the .5, and I definitely like the kanthal coils much better. It seems like the ni200 coils take to long to start going. To much lag time even at 50j. Give me the .5 at 40w anyday. My new favorite tank.
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I'll try it again. I had read that 0.01 ohms (not 0.1, extra digits aside) was a big difference when it comes to TC.
can the 0.15ohm ni200 coils fit in the supertank mini ? and by the way whats the difference btw supertank vs supertank mini apart from the size ? im using a d2 as well, and tempted to try TC.