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The BOREAS RTA by Augvape and Roxy

Dampfsucht

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Cheap? DNA40's and SX350J-V1's. Or if you want bare bones, cheapest of cheap, DC-DC regulators like the OKR/OKL T-10/T-20 and Raptor chips will always be around for dirt prices. If you want quality, DNA200's, SX350-J V2's, soon to release SX450's.
What's a good source for for the Raptor chips?
 

Mikhail Naumov

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http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?mpart=NSR020A0X43Z&vendor=555

These aren't straight forward to wire and there's no built in safety. These types of boards will happily let you fry them. Don't build under .2, they're regulated but you're still going to have to do Ohm's Law calculations because all these do is essentially regulate output voltage. They're buck chips. You'll need a potentiometer for output voltage regulation, different resistors, a Positive (P-Fet) Channel Mosfet if you want reverse polarity protection, a zener diode if you want low voltage protection. Then you'll need a battery sled, a switch, a 510, wire. There's several tutorials. Digikey has basically everything you need outside of enclosures.

The NAOS 20A Raptor DC-DC regulator board is rated for 120W, 6V and 20A. Remember that, because the board WILL STILL let you output more than 120W and 20A. This is what I meant when I said they'll happily let you fry them. The p-fet and zener diode will add in safety, but you still need to treat the board within its limitations. The OKL T-20 is another 20A chip, but it's a 110W board. There's also a 40A NAOS Raptor that's for higher 3 cell type configurations if you need more power, but there's not many tutorials on it so if you want to go that route I can rig up a diagram for wiring it. You're basically making your own entire regulated mod with these, you save money, but there's more work.

Optional things: heat shrink wrap (protects the board and wires soldered to it from shorts), the P-fet (reverse polarity protection, without it, reverse the batteries and there goes your board), the zener diode (this will prevent you from draining your batteries too low, but it's again still optional), a voltage meter (this will tell you the voltage remaining in your batteries and even the voltage load after sag, these aren't 100% accurate though, what they display depends on how you wire them) and that's about it.

Be fucking careful.
 
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Dampfsucht

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http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?mpart=NSR020A0X43Z&vendor=555

These aren't straight forward to wire and there's no built in safety. These types of boards will happily let you fry them. Don't build under .2, they're regulated but you're still going to have to do Ohm's Law calculations because all these do is essentially regulate output voltage. They're buck chips. You'll need a potentiometer, different resistors, a Positive (P-Fet) Channel Mosfet if you want reverse polarity protection, a zener diode if you want low voltage protection. Then you'll need a battery sled, a switch, a 510, wire. There's several tutorials. Digikey has basically everything you need outside of enclosures.
Thanks for the link Mikhail. Bookmarked.
 

markcfh

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I can't vape 50/50. My throat gets all swollen. So I go 70/30 or 80/20. I'm kinda lazy, so I diy 2-300 mls at a time.
 

Powerman

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If you like 316LSS try 430SS. It's the king of SS wires in terms of resistance and quality. Shit's expensive though, it's a very high grade of stainless steel.
It is a low grade SS. Most common use is decorative applications because it's more ductile. It's less expensive than nickle chromium alloys. It just works well for our application. It's far from special for SS.
 

roxynoodle

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This is true, but the FIRST thing that will vanish off the market are high end boards and modding parts when the shit hits the fan. Negative and positive channel mosfets will go nowhere, those are VERY commonly used fuses, same with T-10/T-20 style DC-DC converters that are in things like the Hex-Ohm. Those regulators were used in things like water pumps and electric motors long before vaping ever picked them up. Those are very popular electronics parts, just like anti-vandals, tactile switches, resistors, silver/nickel/copper wire, etc. Same with Hammond enclosures. 510's may stay, as there's no way to limit them. But high end boards will go like fucking lightning, so it's nice to have some on hand. You can also get basic T-20 regulators or unregulated parts, but high end boards will be the last surviving relics of a lost age if the FDA pulls the trigger on vaping.

Agree.
 

Mythical_OD

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I did it last night. Kind of a strange set up the survey is in. I felt like I was being questioned by the cops the way it kept asking basically the same questions over and over. But, if it helps in some way, then happy to help.

Been rocking the Boreas for 2 weeks solid now on my RX200 as my main, take everywhere knock around set up, and its been perfect. Leaking stopped, hits great, good flavor, nice vape quantity, etc. etc. Ill get a bit of heavy spit back every once in a while, like a big drop runs up the chimney and on my lips/tongue, but thats not the end of the world. Love the thing. Certainly replaced my Allerias as my main tanks. I wanna get another one.
 

SeniorBoy

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Some thoughts from S i n C i t y. A bit off topic. Please humor me :)

- Even if you don't DIY you should stockpile some NIC base. Properly bottled in your freezer. IMHO, NIC base will be "currency" that you can use to barter/trade for stuff you don't have when the slaughter rolls out.

- Ditto on using a RDA to test flavors. I wick those puppies with Ekowool which permits me to dry burn/flame the same wick and test the next batch with the same wick. I usually flame them with a cigarette lighter.

- As others have noted, start building/hoarding your dooms day stash today. Make a list and watch for sales. Mods, tanks, NIC base, flavors, drippers, wire, wicking material/heads, parts for you modders, and anything else you can think of. Better safe than sorry.

:)

Edit to remove that pesky VU auto link thingy. Grr........................
 

rolf 2

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http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?mpart=NSR020A0X43Z&vendor=555

These aren't straight forward to wire and there's no built in safety. These types of boards will happily let you fry them. Don't build under .2, they're regulated but you're still going to have to do Ohm's Law calculations because all these do is essentially regulate output voltage. They're buck chips. You'll need a potentiometer for output voltage regulation, different resistors, a Positive (P-Fet) Channel Mosfet if you want reverse polarity protection, a zener diode if you want low voltage protection. Then you'll need a battery sled, a switch, a 510, wire. There's several tutorials. Digikey has basically everything you need outside of enclosures.

The NAOS 20A Raptor DC-DC regulator board is rated for 120W, 6V and 20A. Remember that, because the board WILL STILL let you output more than 120W and 20A. This is what I meant when I said they'll happily let you fry them. The p-fet and zener diode will add in safety, but you still need to treat the board within its limitations. The OKL T-20 is another 20A chip, but it's a 110W board. There's also a 40A NAOS Raptor that's for higher 3 cell type configurations if you need more power, but there's not many tutorials on it so if you want to go that route I can rig up a diagram for wiring it. You're basically making your own entire regulated mod with these, you save money, but there's more work.

Optional things: heat shrink wrap (protects the board and wires soldered to it from shorts), the P-fet (reverse polarity protection, without it, reverse the batteries and there goes your board), the zener diode (this will prevent you from draining your batteries too low, but it's again still optional), a voltage meter (this will tell you the voltage remaining in your batteries and even the voltage load after sag, these aren't 100% accurate though, what they display depends on how you wire them) and that's about it.

Be fucking careful.
hi mnaumov !
got 2 builds with the t10 and one with a t20, that's the one which I stored to long and drained a lipo to bejond usable.
agree on all your comments . they vape very nice ! I do have a low voltage cut off zener in them . which works just fine if you ceep it in rotation and charge it at that time . build all my cases with fiberglass and carbon fiber covered in wood veneer to leather . its fun for me . but if I build the next one and use a soft pack lipo which is not easy to remove for charging I would defenetly put a switch in it to remove the battery from the circuit , because it will continue to slowly drain below the zener cut off voltage .
beside the need for a balanced charger and plug needed , they work great !
ps on the lipo s id use a fuse in it to .
have fun
 

tazz2293

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I got to be honest for moment.

Like many, I started vaping on the e-ciggs. Blehhh! But, it got me off the analogs. Then I switched to one of those MTL's from Joytech. Better than an e-cig but not great.

I then got the evic mini with the tron tank. Hmmm. Now we are beginning to get somewhere but still, not the best as I am sure many will agree.

Then I got a Target tank because of the ceramic coils. Man, I thought that was the cats meow. But, So much trouble with the coils.

Then I got another very popular tank. The flavor I thought was out of this world. Then got a bad batch of coils and blech!

Found some postings from Raymo concerning another RTA. Bought that and started vaping. Shweet.

Then I saw Raymo posting about the BOREAS.

Bought one, been using ,for maybe 3 weeks?

In the span of 3 weeks I have bought 3 BOREAS Tanks, Tons of juice, coils from Raymo and all I got to say is damn, just damn. The BOREAS kicks ass.

Freaking ccell coils suck, other coils suck!

BOREAS Rocks!
 

NatGasMan

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I got to be honest for moment.

Like many, I started vaping on the e-ciggs. Blehhh! But, it got me off the analogs. Then I switched to one of those MTL's from Joytech. Better than an e-cig but not great.

I then got the evic mini with the tron tank. Hmmm. Now we are beginning to get somewhere but still, not the best as I am sure many will agree.

Then I got a Target tank because of the ceramic coils. Man, I thought that was the cats meow. But, So much trouble with the coils.

Then I got another very popular tank. The flavor I thought was out of this world. Then got a bad batch of coils and blech!

Found some postings from Raymo concerning another RTA. Bought that and started vaping. Shweet.

Then I saw Raymo posting about the BOREAS.

Bought one, been using ,for maybe 3 weeks?

In the span of 3 weeks I have bought 3 BOREAS Tanks, Tons of juice, coils from Raymo and all I got to say is damn, just damn. The BOREAS kicks ass.

Freaking ccell coils suck, other coils suck!

BOREAS Rocks!

As far as the Boreas goes, I ordered my first one 3 weeks ago and now have 4. :teehee: Of course one of those is dedicated to the wife. ;)
 

Mikhail Naumov

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It is a low grade SS. Most common use is decorative applications because it's more ductile. It's less expensive than nickle chromium alloys. It just works well for our application. It's far from special for SS.

430SS is not low grade, it's also more conductive/lower resistance than 316LSS. I'm talking strictly about wire, not straight SS. Annealed 430SS wire is much lower resistance than 316/316L/317/304 and is more high quality as a building wire. As actual SS I know it's a ferritic grade of straight chromium. You don't want 430SS knives. You want 301/17-7PHSS knives.
 
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Powerman

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430SS is not low grade, it's also more conductive/lower resistance than 316LSS. I'm talking strictly about wire, not straight SS. Annealed 430SS wire is much lower resistance than 316/316L/317/304 and is more high quality as a building wire. As actual SS I know it's a ferritic grade of straight chromium. You don't want 430SS knives. You want 301/17-7PHSS knives.
Electrical properties don't make a SS high grade. 430 electrical properties make it a good SS for our use as a TC coil. Corrosion resistance, hardness, high temp apps, those are demanding high grade SS needs. The decorative cover of a fridge not so much. It's an inexpensive low grade SS that is soft and relatively corrosion resistant... It just so happens to have some good properties for TC vaping.
 

Mikhail Naumov

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I was saying it makes it a high grade wire for low resistance and TC vaping. I made that clear. 430SS would snap like cardboard if you used it in a real world heavy application. It's crap as steel, great as wire. But 430SS wire in a vape shop or a vendor, is going to be more expensive than kanthal and nickel.
 

haleysdadda

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Maybe try switching to the other deck, or adding more wicking. It shouldn't do that so easily.
Add more wick! On a 3mm build I use half a rope of rayon per coil & leave the tails long enough to make a complete loop under the coils & I know that's the sweet spot for wicking cuz I've played alot! I don't know about putting that much cotton in the coils with cotton will work but what I do know is if I don't make that loop & tuck the rayon all the way into the corners of the deck OVER the holes not into them I will get a little leaking when filling & laying it on it's side! But when I make sure the wick is covering the deck completely on both sides my gurl is perfect! As a matter of fact she is laying on her side on the couch wide open without even a little seeping right now & she hasn't leaked a bit when filling!:blowkiss::shades:
 

raymo2u

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How did you clean them Tazz? I think I may have to do the same to a set of fused Claptons I have been vaping on for a while.
You make them glow to yellow and then rinse them after they cool...then heat enough to burn off the water and your good to go. Ive had a pair of my fused claptons last a friend almost a year....longer then my membership has been here.
 

raymo2u

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Thanks Ray! I'd hate to have your hands right about now. That's a shit load of coils!
Yea, today is definitely giving my tendinitis a run for its money for sure...but Im glad that people that normally wouldnt even try these types of coils (due to prices) are giving it a go...

Funny part is in a different thread I was just told my coils are expensive...go figure :D
 

NatGasMan

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Yea, today is definitely giving my tendinitis a run for its money for sure...but Im glad that people that normally wouldnt even try these types of coils (due to prices) are giving it a go...

Funny part is in a different thread I was just told my coils are expensive...go figure :D

People may think they are expensive because they don't know how much of a difference they make. :facepalm: Once they try them, I think you will have some repeat customers. :) Which in turn leads to word of mouth....new customers! ;)
 

tazz2293

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Yea, today is definitely giving my tendinitis a run for its money for sure...but Im glad that people that normally wouldnt even try these types of coils (due to prices) are giving it a go...

Funny part is in a different thread I was just told my coils are expensive...go figure :D

You want quality?

Ya get what you pay for and with your coils - Price is fair and the Quality is outstanding!
 

NatGasMan

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Yeah, my flavor is still popping! I won't need to do it for a couple of days. In the meantime, I need to tear down a Boreas and try and figure out why it keeps making my RX switch to Watts mode from TC mode. I think I may have a loose coil. If not, maybe I didn't put something back together correctly in the Boreas.
 

raymo2u

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Yeah, my flavor is still popping! I won't need to do it for a couple of days. In the meantime, I need to tear down a Boreas and try and figure out why it keeps making my RX switch to Watts mode from TC mode. I think I may have a loose coil. If not, maybe I didn't put something back together correctly in the Boreas.
Sounds like a connection issue somewhere!
 

haleysdadda

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Look what Uncle Ray made for me!
20160428_194357-jpg.49176
 

roxynoodle

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IMPORTANT!! O RING SIZES

Drip tip (2) 8 x 1
Top of chimney stem (where fill ports are) 9 x 1
Top cap 18 x 1
Glass tank seals (2) 24 x 1
Bottom of chimney stem 10 x 1
Top of afc ring 18 x 1
Below afc ring, on chamber (2) 17 x 1
510 base: large one is 18 x 1, in bottom is 11 x 1.2
Deck 12 x 1
 
F

fckaugust8th

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Seriously, forget the Merlin or is it Marvin and contact uncle Ray for some bling to wear. /lol /I joke
ARE YOU INSANE????FORGET THE MERLIN???? I've been waiting on pins and needles for the Merlin, if it is as good as the Boreas and Alleria, I will have finally found the tanks to use, no need to look further!
@roxynoodle , please don't listen to him, he's delirious and doesn't know what he's saying. We need the Merlin. We want the Merlin.
 

Mikhail Naumov

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I haven't ran a single coil build in over a year, so I'll probably be passing on the Merlin for that reason alone. I'm a dual, 3.5mm fused/staple clapton, 130-250W kind of guy.
 
F

fckaugust8th

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I haven't ran a single coil build in over a year, so I'll probably be passing on the Merlin for that reason alone. I'm a dual, 3.5mm fused/staple clapton, 130-250W kind of guy.
I used to say the opposite! Things changed for me since the Alleria and Boreas changed my vaping style. I will definitely try the Merlin, I figured since we really know the provenance, it should be really good.
 

Mikhail Naumov

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I've kept the same vape style ever since I switched to RDA's and rebuilding a little over two years ago. I see nothing changing my vape style now, it's extremely difficult to get a good high wattage vape off of a single coil and still have heat and lung fill comparable to a dual or more coil build.
 

SeniorBoy

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@roxynoodle - It's time for you to strut your fashion bling. Seriously, forget the Merlin or is it Marvin and contact uncle Ray for some bling to wear. /lol /I joke

BUT Imagine:

Clapton Ear rings for you!
Alien bracelets for the area 51 folks. Think Roswell New Mexico!
Go fused with a cooper necklace

It's a great idea and think of the conversations you could have with fellow vapers. Can you imagine!

/lol
:)

:)

No offence intended with my humor/joke.
 

roxynoodle

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I have a surprise for you all with Merlin, but you'll have to stay tuned ;) However, it won't suit people who want to run high power dual builds. But, I think many will be pleased by the versatility.

The prototypes are on their way to me for testing.

Oh, and please bookmark the Boreas o ring sizes or save to a document so you'll have that info when needed.
 

roxynoodle

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You know what Roxy
This waiting is ANNOYING


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For me especially! We began Merlin just a couple days after Boreas, way back in January! So I've known about it for more than 2 months before you guys did! You've only known about it for a few weeks :D
 

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