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Calling all TC experts

Mattp169

Platinum Contributor
Vape Media
Member For 5 Years
yes stock kanger ni200 coils are suppose to be .15. Ive burne 3 of them up on my d2. on teh 4th and it acted worng to start with but now maybe working right, but since it was used with the setting wrong and so forth may be about to die as well. Got one left. I havent given up hope on my subtanks for TC but my goodness the flavor I am getting off this maganus with a dual vertical coil ni200 is so good I may not want to use anything else
 

dre

Platinum Contributor
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The triton can use Atlantis nickel coils

Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk
 

dre

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Member For 5 Years
Here's my ti build in my goblin min 26g .172 these coils have been in use for over 3 weeks this is just after a rinse and quick brusing with a old toothbrush
40d75566274fe7600106ee6a3021feb3.jpg


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Last edited:

Mattp169

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see that picture shows me something is way off for me then
My ti coils would be brown in minutes of use
And I could rinse them and nothing cam eoff.
 

Mattp169

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so for shits and giggles i did some experimenting
\1.make a spaced Ti coil that i didnt pulse, like i did before and see if it worked in subtank - FAIL
2. make a ti coil in a stock ni200 coil -fail - 2 attempts and they both caught fire
3. make a standard kanthal 26ga 5 wrap contact coil on the subtank rba deck FAIL
the kanthal build works, but reads at .6 ohms on my istick 30w. according to steam engine this coil should be .7 not .6 and now using this buil din the istick makes the istick heat up ALOT.

this tells me both my subtanks are messed up.or i cant build a coil to save my life
 

AmandaD

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Steam engine is just a guideline - mine rarely come out exactly as predicted! (And, yes, the Istick does get a bit hot!)

Since you're so new to coil building, I suspect you will be fine with a little more practice :)

(How on earth did a Ti coil catch fire???)
 

dre

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Post like these I wish to poster lived near me so I could get my hands on it cause I know I can fix the problem. Move to nj so I can help you out ;)

Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk
 

Mattp169

Platinum Contributor
Vape Media
Member For 5 Years
Post like these I wish to poster lived near me so I could get my hands on it cause I know I can fix the problem. Move to nj so I can help you out ;)

Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk
come to Maryland and we will have lunch

Im just gonna relagate my subtanks for stock occ coils

i just installed a brand new .15 ni200 coil on one base it read as .304 on the d2
switched to the other base and it read the same coil as .224
unscrewed the coil and put it back on and it read it at .114
locked that in and tried it and it was way to hot
after it cooled down the same coil on same base read at .112

so something is off on my subtanks
which is fine using stock builds and the device not trying to regulate anything based on resistance
but not for TC

the maganus so far is working like a tank with tc on the d2

i think i will either get the rba deck for the maganus, get a billow v2 or just hold off for smok to release ti coils for the TFV4.

just cut down some juice form 6 to 3mg nic to try in the magnus after this tank is dry and see if that works better for me

also vaping HIC 3 milky musketters while eating a 3 musketeers is fun
 

dre

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
Here's the blue we been talking about
65d3e1ae611151d50d413c1a82508641.jpg


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Mattp169

Platinum Contributor
Vape Media
Member For 5 Years
ok so heres where i am
i switched form the kanger subtanks because the prebuilt NI200 coils would not work properly and my own DIY Ti coils did not work properly. No liquid messages and all the drama above

So i switched to Ni200 coils on my maganus tank
Now that was working OKISH
i ran into the following problems using my IPV D2
1. when i refilled the tank, i would often get CHECK ATOMIZER or NO JUICE. then to get it to work again i would have to disassemble the tank on eto 5 times and then it worked.
2. It seemed to stop firing when the cotton was dry, but NOT ALWAYS. I took a hit off it last nite and was completely dry, the cotton burned and that coil is burned tasting now

SO i was getting concerend my D2 was defective

I happen to be going to @maddcatt vapors today to get some supplies.
while i was there aaron offered to sell me his IPV 3li used .I know his device works he was always using it when I was in the store.
So i got that

first thing i did
build a new Ti coil on my kanger subtank. On the LI it read at .1 ohms but should have been .230 ish
i put it on the d2 the d2 said it was .231
put it back on the LI and the Li read it at .232
so wicked and juiced the coil on the LI and it didnt work worth a damn. NO JUICE after a few seconds of firing at 450F
Put the subtank on the d2 after it all cooled and same thing happened there
waited for it all to cool and put it back on the LI
I relocked resistance each time, and at this point all devices said it was about .23
fired it and it worked PERFECTLY
so let it cool
put it back on D2
well D2 fired it now but was letting it get too hot. 450 on the D2 felt like 700 or more on the LI
SO put it back on the LI and let it all cool
WORKED PERFECTLY
let it cool and try one more time on D2...WORKED PERFECTLY
so vaped that for a bit, and it flooded
SO question 1. is flooding because of too much or too little wicking?

I pulled that coil so i could see what happens when i build another coil.
Built a new Ti coil, resistance read right on both D2 and Li first try.
Put it on the D2 locked resistance and WORKS PERFECTLY so far.

Now
wtf is going on
TC works one minute and then not the next.

i would really appreciate
@dre @AmandaD, @kwtony , and everyone else's initial reaction to this post.

I feel like my issues are a combination of user error, but that there may be something slightly off with my tanks which is compounding the user error issues.

and one other question
a flavor on my Ti coil tastes was to hot and burned above 525F using the kanger subtank
the same flavor in the maganus using its Ni200 coils is tolerable above 525F

Is teh difference in taste and heat, mor elikely
user error with the Ti Build
or
a difference many notice between Ti and Ni200
or
just because its two different tanks. remember the Maganus has more airflow then the kanger
 

AmandaD

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
First off you don't get an accurate reading when you've just built the coil - only once the tank is filled up and the whole thing has sat for a while. I don't know which RBA base you're using on the subtank (new one with the holes in the sides or the old one with the juice channels)? I don't run my subtanks over 525 (I don't think) because the juice flow just can't keep up. Flooding is likely not enough wicking! You're getting there - be patient. It takes a while to learn how to build coils, let alone build them for TC :)
 

ForrestGump

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The best TC vape has been on the iStick 40 TC. I use it with the Lemo 2 because it has a rebuildable deck that has enough room for 26 guage 11 wrap 3mm nickel builds. And man It vapes like a champ and the flavor is like a velocity RBA.

Reason for liking the Istick 40 Tc is because the only thing that you have to adjust is the Temp not the wattage. Allot easier and simple. And it always asks if your coil is new or old. I think Eleaf did a great job with that mod and it's so inexpensive. Can not wait for their version with a replaceable battery.
 

dre

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
I can agree the istick40 is totally easy. It provides a vape like my yihi boards mods. I couldn't believe it at first. Actually better then a DNA 40 IMO.

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kevinmyfsu

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Just a few little tips. With temp control your ohms will jump around when you're firing it. In the beginning they may read .15 but I've had stock ni200 coils advertised as .15 go between .12 and .16 over their life-span. Also, I've read that you are specifically not supposed to dry fire Ti (this is really true of all wire after you're done shaping it; for example you shouldn't dry fire your coils to clean them) for any reason. In addition I have found when building with ni200 that a) contact coils work better for some reason, b) larger inner diameter is easier, c) ni200 can be frustrating because it's hard to make and keep a secure connection (hex/grub screws work the best), and finally d) don't bother pulsing ni200 coils. It's an easy way to melt your build or exacerbate a hot spot. I have found no benefit nor has it prevented any shorts (for me). I have yet to hear/see any definitive answers on spaced vs contact coils for ni200, pulsing them, etc. It seems everyone has a different opinion. As for me, I've got some Sweet Spot Vapors Ti Wire coming in the mail (.5mm). I'm hoping it will be less frustrating and nickel.
 

AmandaD

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Just a few little tips. With temp control your ohms will jump around when you're firing it. In the beginning they may read .15 but I've had stock ni200 coils advertised as .15 go between .12 and .16 over their life-span. Also, I've read that you are specifically not supposed to dry fire Ti (this is really true of all wire after you're done shaping it; for example you shouldn't dry fire your coils to clean them) for any reason. In addition I have found when building with ni200 that a) contact coils work better for some reason, b) larger inner diameter is easier, c) ni200 can be frustrating because it's hard to make and keep a secure connection (hex/grub screws work the best), and finally d) don't bother pulsing ni200 coils. It's an easy way to melt your build or exacerbate a hot spot. I have found no benefit nor has it prevented any shorts (for me). I have yet to hear/see any definitive answers on spaced vs contact coils for ni200, pulsing them, etc. It seems everyone has a different opinion. As for me, I've got some Sweet Spot Vapors Ti Wire coming in the mail (.5mm). I'm hoping it will be less frustrating and nickel.

Actually many people do dry fire Ti - it makes a better contact coil! You only dry fire until it turns blue, though.
 

Mattp169

Platinum Contributor
Vape Media
Member For 5 Years
well just to update
its been a week, and the Ti build i have in my kanger subtank is still working fine. only issue i have encountered is the screws fro the coil came like 1/64th of aturn loose and I had to retighten them and relock resistance. tthe ni200 coil in my maganus is workign perfectly as well

I can vape either tank as low as 350f and up to 572f with no problems
 

kevinmyfsu

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Great to hear matt! AmandaD, thanks for the info, will definitely try that out.
 

ren.dnb

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well just to update
its been a week, and the Ti build i have in my kanger subtank is still working fine. only issue i have encountered is the screws fro the coil came like 1/64th of aturn loose and I had to retighten them and relock resistance. tthe ni200 coil in my maganus is workign perfectly as well

I can vape either tank as low as 350f and up to 572f with no problems

welcome to the wonderful world of TC vaping! I like titanium myself =D Also have AmandaD to thank for advice!
 

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