Soooo say i have a unregulated 2 battery box and 2 LG 18650's with 3.7V and a .02 ohm from 24g double twisted wire 5 wrap on both sides on a tfv8 baby beast.... That spells disaster doesn't it?
Offhand, Im going to say yes, for a few reasons.. correct me if I am wrong on any...
1) 0.02 ohm is pretty close to the internal resistance of your batteries, the closer you go to 0.00 ohm, the greater your risk.
2) You didn't mention which LG you are using, or the CDR. For each battery you need to know how it will handle stress. For example, on a single 25r (20A) I can build at UPTO a 56A draw for 2.5 seconds, with a 30 second rest. I could go as high as 70A but that is beyond my "ARE YOU CRAZY??" limit. LOL.. So you need to know how hot your cells get and how fast they reach 100C which is the standard DO NOT EXCEED temp.
3) This is strictly for cloud builds.. you would do better on an RDA such as a mutationX (I have V4) using dual parallel coils, no twists. (IOW 0 pitch) to maximize your surface area and reduce resistance. YOU should know what a safe resistance to build at is according to which batteries you use, how you vape (inhale/ exhale) and how much stress your batteries can handle. In other words, NEVER try this on a rebranded battery. Samsung, Sony, LG only. You need to TRUST what is UNDER the wrapper, not what the wrapper says.
Even better a quad coil build with a separate wick for each coil and re-juice every hit.
4th and most important, you need to know what your rig can do, not what I can do on mine. So although you can use my examples as examples, you can't use them as a how to post. It doesn't work that way. This is most important because it means you have to already know how to build coils and what is reasonably safe for your rig. I have been called an asshole for this reason.. I can't tell anyone what batteries they are using and the person using them has to know for themself what they can do. Me telling you would not do you (meaning the other person) any good, they need to know where to find the info and how to read it for EVERY battery they use.
I find a common misconception is that lower ohm = larger clouds. This is only true with mechanical mods, where you have to lower your ohms enough to reach the wattage needed to power your coil. On a regulated mod, you only have to get your resistance low enough to achieve max power output from your mods 2ndary controller. Example..
A) 200w mod. 0.60 ohm coil. Voltage= 4.2. Formula 4.2 times 2 cells = 8.4 then sqr that 70.56 watts / 0.60 resistance .. = 117 watts MAX.
B 200w mod, 0.30 ohm parallel coil (same number of "loops" as above... = 70.56 watts / 0.30 resistance = 235 watts (200w max)
In both A and B the coils have EXACTLY the same surface area and mass. The build changed the resistance which affected the max power available.
This is also important with mechanical mods, since you know to run that coil, you will need 235 watts and must build accordingly. Even if using 2 cells, that is still pretty high and well above your CDR.
Now as you see, there is a lot of math involved and a lot of info needed by the end user as to how their battery will handle the stress. That said, it sometimes makes us seem like AHoles when we have to tell people to do their homework, but it isn't us being mean, it is us teaching people how to find and use the information.
Now back to the original question.. there is no way in hell I would build a coil at 0.02 ohm. You MIGHT get away with it for a hit or 2 every couple minutes on a top grade battery (such as samsung 25r.. although I hear there are others now that are better) but I wouldn't take the chance. It isn't about how low you can build, it is about how well your build performs, how much lung capacity you have and how you exhale. All these are more important than low resistance. Which is why someone with a 0.08 ohm build will kick your butt in a competition using the build you described.