Just did about an hours worth of reading about it, and got 100ft coming lol
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NI200 Coil Builds with a DNA 40 Device
- Thread starter Rebel_Vaper
- Start date
Just did about an hours worth of reading about it, and got 100ft coming lol
For what it's worth, I've just tried the heat-dunk-anneal cleaning method on a really gunky Ni200 coil: it works dandy. One dunk and it's squeaky clean. But there are three caveats:
- It seems to be rather hard on the coil: mine deformed a bit after dunking. This doesn't seem to happen with kanthal. I simply straightened the coil after annealing with a screwdriver, and it seems fine though. The resistance also increased by .02 ohm, but then it does so when I do the first dry-burn on a new coil anyway, so it may or may not be related to the thermal shock.
- Don't dunk the coil with TC enabled: the DNA40 seems to lose its marbles completely for a while afterwardI suppose the sudden drop in resistance confuses the hell out of the base resistance measurement fine-tuning algorithm.
- Dry the atomizer, coil and posts thoroughly before re-wicking, else the temperature regulation won't quite work properly until all the water is gone.
I'll keep doing this method on this coil as it gets gunky again, to see if it lasts any longer than when I dry-burn it clean. Stay tuned...
EDIT: I made this video, to show how it works with Ni200 coils:
Replying to myself here, but...
I'm on my 5th heat-dunk-anneal cycle on the same nickel coil, and I find it's working tons better than a regular dry-burn: the coil only deforms and changes resistance slightly the first time. After that, it doesn't move anymore, and the resistance stays exactly the same to within .01 ohms - meaning the wire isn't thinning out or wasting away.
Also, it's a lot easier on the atomizer's insulator, because it doesn't heat it up remotely as hard. And you don't have to wait forever for the atomizer and coil to cool down for TC to recover its bearing, so to speak.
So, this method seems to be a winner with Ni200 as well. I think this coil is going to last a very long time!
tchavei
Member For 4 Years
Hi.
I'm using certified titanium grade 1 28g (or maybe 0.34mm) for a week now in my dna 40. 6 spaced wraps on a 2.5mm mandrel come out at 0.32 Ohms. Flavor is good and I rewicked for the first time today. Didn't need to dry burn. Just hot tap water and a tissue to remove any small gunk I've found.
I think it's a very durable coil. With hardened nickel, although easier to build, I always had trouble rewicking as the coil would tend to distort. What's worse is that ni 200 tends to become brittle over time with the constant heating/cooling and will snap easily.
Titanium grade 1 28g:
Ni 200 30g:
Ni 200 28g:
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Well we need to start a Titanium coils on the Temp control mods thread... Nice pics, Tony. How do you allow for the offset in temp we see from Ti vs Ni200? I just shave off 100 degrees. Curious what you do. I also have been using Native Wicks, goood stuff.
tchavei
Member For 4 Years
Thx.
About the offset... At first, I believed I could easily calculate it based on the temperature coefficient of both nickel (0.006) and titanium (0.0038)
As it happens, it doesn't work so well because I did the water test and both coils sit happily at 212F
After a bit experimentation I found that 350F on titanium would give me a similar vape to nickel at 440F (90F offset) and it has been working great so far.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
I've just done my 7th cleaning cycle using this method. The coil shows no sign of quitting. I love it
It's perfectly okay to dry-burn a nickel coil clean, but it doesn't last as long as with the dunking method. As for the battery, it doesn't "see" the coil's resistance directly - the mod takes care of the voltage conversion, to maintain reasonable power levels that won't overload the battery.
After a couple years of dry-burning coils I no longer do it with kanthal and certainly not Ni200 or my preferred titanium. I have read enough to come to my own conclusion that torching these metals red is not as "healthy." But to each his own.
in general terminology....
most regulated mods, and dna mods don't count, theyre designed to run om such low resistance coils.
That .5mm is the same size as the 24 AWG I have been using. My surgical grade 1 from Etsy has a greyish finish not shiny off the spool. Very clean though. Same with yours? Where'd you get it?in other news, got my ti gr 1 wire, about to start building a ti coil setup. i pulled the trigger without thinking and got .5mm wire
I've just done my 7th cleaning cycle using this method. The coil shows no sign of quitting. I love it
Again, replying to myself...
I've just done my 10th cleaning cycle on the same coil. It still works fine, looks like new, and the resistance hasn't moved even .01 ohm. Amazing! At this rate, I'll die of old age before this coil does
[olQUOTE="Giraut, post: 442618, member: 5029"]Again, replying to myself...
I've just done my 10th cleaning cycle on the same coil. It still works fine, looks like new, and the resistance hasn't moved even .01 ohm. Amazing! At this rate, I'll die of old age before this coil does[/QUOTE]
L
I've just done my 10th cleaning cycle on the same coil. It still works fine, looks like new, and the resistance hasn't moved even .01 ohm. Amazing! At this rate, I'll die of old age before this coil does
[/QUOTE]L