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The temperature control chip clones are coming! - YiHi SX350J

f1r3b1rd

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Whatever the case may be, there are just way too many people posting problems with the chip. A guy on reddit posted that he bought VS40 from the Vaporshark booth at a trade show, walked away, fired it up, and the screen scrambled immediately, which prompted about 30 other people to comment about how theirs are messed up too. Until this becomes a rock solid device, I'm not going to be warm and fuzzy about shelling out 200 bucks. But I do really want one. The form factor is really nice.
I saw that and I normally I just dome say a word. There are problems to be sure. Its undeniable. I totally get someone wanting to stear clear. If it were Chinese company or company wit questionable return policy , i wouldn't touch it.
The facts from an abstract view is, angry people are louder than happy people. 8000 rdna units were sold alone, far less have complained. Those who have had a new unit 5-10 days, typically 5. that was omen guy on reddit, has he said how the replacement unit was? Or did he just get his money back?
My point is simply a lot of people are looking at it only for its negative points, of which are undeniably there. However, every person was mad hole.

Like I Said staying clear is understandable and if it were any other modders board I probably would myself.
 

f1r3b1rd

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And after all that I rolled the dice and preordered the sxmini with tc
 

Fictitious Character

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Well, some computer firms want those USB ports 'wobbly' because of the usage they typically get. They have a type that almost 'bites' the male USB plug it puts the stress of pulling and manipulation of the connection on the cord rather than the board, school of thought is, the cord will foul up first. Not saying that's the case obviously, I haven't seen one. but my tablets are built the same way. I jut don like the size and shape. To the price point, I have a 250$ cap on any mod.
That is the essential statement they make about their loose/wobbly usb port. I don't own a flask so I can not really say how bad the usb port feels but I know quite a few ppl have questioned them on the usb port and they came back with a similar reply as your own.

The finish is deploreable.
Flakes and chips off showing the nice grey zinc alloy base underneath.
Yup worth every penny . lol
I'm being nice by the way. Could go on and on.

This is only my opinion .
I have seen a lot of Sharks with torn up shells. It has always been my understanding that the finish on the VS is not as durable as it could be. VS may have fixed this issue as the finish is suppose to be better on the new devices but time will tell. The 510 area takes some abuse and I have been thinking about putting a piece of black vinyl around the 510. The skin has saved ppl from a lot of body wear though.

This finish from OCD Mods that is pictured on Joe's page looks cool but obviously it is a separate modification that creates an additional cost. I think it would be sweet if VS was doing something like this with color options available at the time of purchase.

VS OCD VERSION.jpg

Whatever the case may be, there are just way too many people posting problems with the chip. A guy on reddit posted that he bought VS40 from the Vaporshark booth at a trade show, walked away, fired it up, and the screen scrambled immediately, which prompted about 30 other people to comment about how theirs are messed up too. Until this becomes a rock solid device, I'm not going to be warm and fuzzy about shelling out 200 bucks. But I do really want one. The form factor is really nice.
I really have been enjoying the rDNA 30, to the point that I have a rDNA 40 sitting here. I do not have any ni-200 wire yet so I can not tell you if I have screen issues or not with this with this small screen rDNA 40, but I can say so far it is even better than the 30 due to the added 10w.

And after all that I rolled the dice and preordered the sxmini with tc
You caved? lol beta tester. I hope it is a good one and is ready for release.

Have some ni-200 in the cart and am wondering what sizes and builds are working best for you? I have 28 and 30 in the cart atm.
 

f1r3b1rd

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It depends on the application.
For a single coil dripper- 26g at 2.5mm diameter 13wraps -0.11
Dual dripper-30g 3mm 12wraps-0.10
Single tank(erlkonigin) 28g 3mm 11 wraps-0.12

My USB port answer is purely myself assuming that's why, I'm an electrical engineer and that's how we install most connections on communication equipment. I won't speak to another designers reasons as a matter of certainty.
 

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That is the essential statement they make about their loose/wobbly usb port. I don't own a flask so I can not really say how bad the usb port feels but I know quite a few ppl have questioned them on the usb port and they came back with a similar reply as your own.

The USB socket in the Vaporflask doesn't "float" by design, or for safety. That's the explanation the manufacturer has come up with to deflect criticisms. It's due to the design of the cheap sliding plastic tray inside the flask.

Besides, the problem isn't that it moves sideways (it looks cheap but it's okay). The real problem is that the socket backs up quite far inside the device with little effort: if the USB plug is a bit hard to plug in, it can't make a proper connection with the socket's pins.

It's cheap design any way you look at it. Vaporflask can say what they want, all quality devices I own have solid charging ports that don't move around. Period.
 
My vapor flask is flawless, accepted all of the batteries recommended by the manufacturer and others I had laying around. The USB port is solid and the dna 40 chip works with all my nickel builds across all of my devices kfv4, lemo, mini su tank, taifun gt 2...and others...

Middle age diva or not she's got pipes and brings it everyday...
 

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The USB socket in the Vaporflask doesn't "float" by design, or for safety. That's the explanation the manufacturer has come up with to deflect criticisms. It's due to the design of the cheap sliding plastic tray inside the flask.

Besides, the problem isn't that it moves sideways (it looks cheap but it's okay). The real problem is that the socket backs up quite far inside the device with little effort: if the USB plug is a bit hard to plug in, it can't make a proper connection with the socket's pins.

It's cheap design any way you look at it. Vaporflask can say what they want, all quality devices I own have solid charging ports that don't move around. Period.
The clone flask is the same way. I just epoxy that bitch in place! Its perfect now and doesn't move.
 

f1r3b1rd

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The ipv4 is already available for preorder at a few places, and its an sx330 or 300 with tc
 
OK in no way is the sxmini j a cloneclone unless u mean that anything that's not a ford is a clone ...its completely different and it actually works ...yihi has taken there time with it it has bin in development since the end of August as seen on there site it was actually supposed to be part of a different board the 250 but with the response from the mini mods they went all in with that ...the sx330 v4 is also a new lower quality board for SIG and p4u it doesn't have the same capabilitys as the j board ...but anyway yihi has bin working on this JC for a long time its actually funny cause usually china rushes and puts out crap but in this case evolv wanted to be out first and before Xmas so u got the DNA 40 with glitch ..
 

cobalt327

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Clone? We donn need no steeking clone!!!

I think Yihi's SX350J looks to be the best, at least on paper. Haven't seen any in the wild yet, though.

FWIW, on the vaportek site they say the IPV 4 SX330 V3C by P4Y should be showing up any day now if it hasn't already. They also say it has "temp control". But the Yihi site says nothing about TC...
 
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Robert B

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Looks like YiHi knows not much more about Temp Control either. Check the dry cotton burn test, smoke coming off the dry cotton. Albeit, better than the Smok XPro 80, but still not there yet

 

dre

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Recommend coil is .065 looks like maybe dual 26g nickel?
 

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I've got a SX350j chip in DHL's hands right now from Yihi. Should be in my hands on Monday for me to do my first regulated box build. It looks like an amazing chip, at least on paper!
 
I Have chip "YiHi SX-350J". I made BOX-MOD. I did not expect, works perfectly. I'm happy. "SX350J" today is my favorite.
PoMVsiK.jpg

fwATMyX.jpg
 

cobalt327

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Dude- I am agreeing w/you. All too often things like your mod gets dissed for being ugly or looking crude. I say if YOU are happy w/it then that's all that matters.
 

cobalt327

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Maybe a joke? What are you saying- this isn't what you said it was? Or are you a troll, or maybe just too high from sniffing glue? Fuck- I thought a little encouragement for your pos might have you improving the whole thing but I see now that ain't gonna happen.
 

f1r3b1rd

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not to take away from the glue sniffer... I just got the sx mini few hours ago.. coming off a dna40 and an ipv70w this thing is really the PERFECT mod. for singe 18650. the powerful mode lets it hit almost as hard at 60w as the sx330 board in the ipv does at 70w =. not quite but close.
the TC seems just as smooth as the dna without all the wonky bits. its more comfortable than the ipv but I do still prefer the small dnavaporshark for on the go with a small tank where I don't need all the power.
the fit and finish is nicer than I was expecting and the presets are damn dream for bouncing around toppers, which I do frequently
overall, big giant score for the YIHI!!! this thing is just pure awesomesauce!!!!
 

cobalt327

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I know the sx mini is high on my list. The one and only thing that causes me to hesitate is I would prefer a pair of 18650s. The only form factor that suits me so far is a flask type mod. I was surprised at how small they feel in the hand because most photos make them look fairly large. But the sx mini has a lot going for it, for sure.
 
Maybe a joke? What are you saying- this isn't what you said it was? Or are you a troll, or maybe just too high from sniffing glue? Fuck- I thought a little encouragement for your pos might have you improving the whole thing but I see now that ain't gonna happen.
Thank you thank you, this is only a prototype. The final option - I do not know, I still think I would like a small, but transformative, so now only watch, think, measuring ...
 

cobalt327

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Cool. Nothing wrong w/improvising and thinking outside the box. Wishing you well going forward.
 

f1r3b1rd

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I know the sx mini is high on my list. The one and only thing that causes me to hesitate is I would prefer a pair of 18650s. The only form factor that suits me so far is a flask type mod. I was surprised at how small they feel in the hand because most photos make them look fairly large. But the sx mini has a lot going for it, for sure.
I looked at the flask, but with the dna40's I already get all day off one charge, so I don't see a reason for dual 18650's not to mention, its just not my thing aesthetically. if a nice sx350j comes out with a dual battery I may jump on it, or get the extension tube and make it a battleax mod if I ever decide to go higher power. but vping it at 60W in powerful mode so far has been about perfect for me. granted I need to keep an extra batter or two with me but for the form factor, im ok with that. my favorite mod up until this was the vsdna with the hardwired 18650. I just prefer the smaller form factor
 

cobalt327

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I looked at the flask, but with the dna40's I already get all day off one charge, so I don't see a reason for dual 18650's not to mention, its just not my thing aesthetically. if a nice sx350j comes out with a dual battery I may jump on it, or get the extension tube and make it a battleax mod if I ever decide to go higher power. but vping it at 60W in powerful mode so far has been about perfect for me. granted I need to keep an extra batter or two with me but for the form factor, im ok with that. my favorite mod up until this was the vsdna with the hardwired 18650. I just prefer the smaller form factor
Actually I like a smaller mod, too. Some tube mods w/short batteries look nice, but I need at least one 18650. My go-to mod lately has been a Cloupor Mini. It cost me <$30.00 and hasn't missed a beat. I also use a DNA Zero and like its size. I bought two- one works fine, one fires as soon as an atty is screwed on so prolly gonna replace the board, and that's where the SX350J comes in, or some other board having TP because I can't see replacing a board and not having TP as an option nowadays.
 

f1r3b1rd

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Actually I like a smaller mod, too. Some tube mods w/short batteries look nice, but I need at least one 18650. My go-to mod lately has been a Cloupor Mini. It cost me <$30.00 and hasn't missed a beat. I also use a DNA Zero and like its size. I bought two- one works fine, one fires as soon as an atty is screwed on so prolly gonna replace the board, and that's where the SX350J comes in, or some other board having TP because I can't see replacing a board and not having TP as an option nowadays.
yeah the TC is pretty much a requirement for future mods here as well. i got on the small powerful kick back when the dna30 first came out. that's what started my evolv fanboyism. lol
ihad a pair of vaporshark dna30's so when the 40 hit the shelf i preordered a pair of those which grew into quite a few and a diy hana box.. its one of those things that i love to hate with the TC. it drove me nuts for the longest time. then recently i got a roll of tempered ni200. omg that stuff madde it so easy- its like working with kathal almost.
 
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Cloudboss

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I dont see anybody mentioning the price range for these
 

350ZMO

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The sx mini M class is around $200 USD currently like the XPV-40D I haven't found the j chips yet.
 

Giraut

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The SXmini Class M is tempting, but I won't buy it until someone with a proper grasp of physics, electricity and SI units doesn't explain to me what the fuck the joule setting does. It's a genuine question, really!
 

f1r3b1rd

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what they are saying and what is happening could very well be two different things

trying to think of the best way to explain what I think they are trying to do.
in reality with joules being a measurement of energy (Wt) I think they are basically trying to skirt patent law. joule in this case is the energy used per second. OR watts per second.

they are saying they are using it as a measurement of heat utilized or heat created, I think what they are doing is taking the wattage per second and doing a similar calculation to the evolve chip in an effort to "keep" the peace. I don't have an o-scope so I can merely base it off using both side by side and with a single coil atty the difference in performance really is amazing. whatever it is, if yihi cloned evolv,, then evolv should considering cloning their own clone.
 

Giraut

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It's very simple, 1 Watt = 1 Joule / 1 sec.
5J = 5W
10J = 10W
.........
50J = 50W
Calculator:
http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/Joule_to_Watt_Calculator.htm

See, that's why I was asking for an explanation from someone who has sound notions of physics...

What if t ≠ 1s? Then J ≠ W isn't it? Not to mention, writing that an energy value is equal to a power value is a nonsense in the first place, anyway.

And what is t supposed to represent here? The duration of the toke? How does the mod know t? Does it guess it, or read it in the future just before the user takes a drag?

The joule is a unit of *energy*. It makes rigorously no sense whatsoever when talking about instantaneous control of temperature or power output.

The only explanation I can come up with is YiHi is trying very hard to avoid being sued for copyright infringement. But the fact remains that, if I buy a mod that uses a setting that has no connection with any physical reality, I won't buy it. They may as well use a scalar value and call it "vaping goodness factor", it'd be less retarded than bending the meaning of joules.

Unless someone comes up with a valid explanation of what it does of course... I'm still waiting...
 

nodor

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Simply put. When your mod is set to 40 watts. What that really means is 40 watts per second. Your household electricity is charged by KWH. Note the relationship between watts and time. 1 joule = 1 watt per second. In vaping terms 1 joule = 1 watt. Nice thing about a mod tracking joules is you can determine how much battery you have left more accurately.
 

f1r3b1rd

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when I jumped on the preorder I thought it was doing the same as evolv just adding more power.
I don't know for certain if that is the reality, what ever they are doing they are doing it exponentially better than evolve. while evolve was fixing wonky screens yihi was refining and improving on the tech.

how or what, I honestly can only speculate. but I will say it kicks ass. I went from provari, to dna, to a mech, to dna to this. and I am having a mind blowing vape.

like the dna it is using the change in resistance of ni200 to calculate the temp, how its calculating its output I truthfully would be guessing at any answer, but it is substantially smoother and better than the best output the dna has ever given me.
 
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f1r3b1rd

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o_O you ok, dude?
 

Giraut

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Simply put. When your mod is set to 40 watts. What that really means is 40 watts per second.

No. When your mod puts out 40 watts, it puts out 40 joules per second. That's the definition of a watt.

Your household electricity is charged by KWH.

...and that is a unit of energy. 1 kWh = 3.6 MJ.

You can consume 5 kWh in one hour with a 5 kW space heater, or in 10 hours with a 500 W space heater. It is not power, and you obviously can't use it to predict how warm your house will be after you're done consuming it, anymore than you can use joules to predict how hot your coil will get in a SXmini mod.

Note the relationship between watts and time. 1 joule = 1 watt per second. In vaping terms 1 joule = 1 watt.

There is no such thing as watts or joules "in vaping terms". There's watts and joules, period.

Sigh... Please people, those who skipped electricity classes at school, kindly refrain from venturing an explanation. I'm not looking for your opinion on what the joule setting means in the SXmini, I'm looking for a rational explanation that makes sense to those of us who understand what a joule is.

Not holding my breath though...
 

f1r3b1rd

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No. When your mod puts out 40 watts, it puts out 40 joules per second. That's the definition of a watt.



...and that is a unit of energy. 1 kWh = 3.6 MJ.

You can consume 5 kWh in one hour with a 5 kW space heater, or in 10 hours with a 500 W space heater. It is not power, and you obviously can't use it to predict how warm your house will be after you're done consuming it, anymore than you can use joules to predict how hot your coil will get in a SXmini mod.



There is no such thing as watts or joules "in vaping terms". There's watts and joules, period.

Sigh... Please people, those who skipped electricity classes at school, kindly refrain from venturing an explanation. I'm not looking for your opinion on what the joule setting means in the SXmini, I'm looking for a rational explanation that makes sense to those of us who understand what a joule is.

Not holding my breath though...
]
Dude, the more I mess with this in temp limiting, i'm thinking that it is ultimately doing what the dna40 does, via just adjusting the wattage to not let you hit the temp you set. Only doing it better.
im firing it and the voltage output is adjusting similarly. I honestly don't think that YIHI even knows what a joule is but is trying to avoid the damn patent gobblygook.

im more than curious for a valid answer from an informed person as well.
its like they have a vape wizard in there
 

Giraut

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[...]I honestly don't think that YIHI even knows what a joule is but is trying to avoid the damn patent gobblygook.[...]

I think they're perfectly aware of what a joule is, but they're also perfectly aware of the poor command of basic notions of electricity most vapers have - even of simplistic shit like Ohm's law - and they figured nobody would really understand any of it anyway. Just look at the DNA40: *it* uses sensible units, and its working principle is rather obvious, yet you find page after page of ignoramuses giving their opinions, and spewing crap about it in great details, on all vaping forums on the internet.
 

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