Ha, that was my first reaction too but it seems kinda cool to me now, I bet the placement in the hand is great. And functional for less of a MTL draw.
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Billet Box Appreciation Thread
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Ha, that was my first reaction too but it seems kinda cool to me now, I bet the placement in the hand is great. And functional for less of a MTL draw.
Yeah and then you'd lift your finger off and 'force' the hit. Like a little manual air control under your grip.
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I like Billet Boxes, I had one WAY back in the fucking day just because it was a cool little novelty vape. I will say, I think they've gotten FAR too expensive, as billet aluminum is actually dirt cheap to produce when compared to other actually expensive metals. They're also quite simple for what they are.
I just can't get down for paying $500+ for billet alumimum with some simple parts in it. If I had the tools to machined the box out of a billet myself I could probably replicate a BB for around $150. I could see them selling them for like $220-$280, but anything over like $350 is just WAY too much for what these little things are.
That out of the way, they do vape really well for lower wattage vapers. Nice ass stealth vape. Shame it's so pricey.
I just can't get down for paying $500+ for billet alumimum with some simple parts in it. If I had the tools to machined the box out of a billet myself I could probably replicate a BB for around $150. I could see them selling them for like $220-$280, but anything over like $350 is just WAY too much for what these little things are.
That out of the way, they do vape really well for lower wattage vapers. Nice ass stealth vape. Shame it's so pricey.
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That's way more reasonable. I've seen some Rev 4's going for like fucking $750+ some places.
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Now that I think about even more, even like mid 200's is a bit much. The billet aluminum it was made out of legit probably cost like $5 wholesale total if even, then add in a DNA40 board (or DNA60) and that's $15-$20 more (wholesale I assume) then the rest is probably a combined $20-$30. That's over 150% profit, which is too much for a mod IMO. I make 30% profit off my mods.
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God I wish I could. I mean I could build an all-in-one, but I wouldn't be able to do it like the Billet. I don't have a CNC machine or some of the tools needed to finish out some of the enclosure. I have a drill, dremel, files, soldering equipment and.. fleshy hands. Not as sexy as clockwork precision machines, unfortunately.
Closest thing I could manage is a smaller, railbox style mod in a 1550P or 1590A.
Closest thing I could manage is a smaller, railbox style mod in a 1550P or 1590A.
People seem to only be able to do arithmetic when it comes to this stuff. How much do the tools cost? How much is labor? How much are the utilities? How much are the bits that you have to replace? The DNA60 board is $49.99 and I can tell you from experience they do not drop much in bulk buys. It is by no means an easy box to design. The authentic is worth every bit of $275. The aftermarket are ridiculous and the availability should have been addressed years ago.
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Well all the Billets I've seen use the older 40 boards, which are much cheaper in raw cost than actual DNA60's despite being able to be updated to 60W. You can find resellers STILL selling DNA40's for dirt cheap if you look hard enough. Also, tools are expected for a company, you make mods so you have tools. Don't think it adds 150%+ markup to the mod. Labor is also a given, but again not a 150%+ given.
$275 is a bit much, but still fine. It's the $750 ones I see that make my jaw drop. The $500+ ones I see are the ones I'm referring to, not the retail boxes for $275 you buy new.
Also, if you TRULY buy them in bulk, like 200+, the price does start to drop quite a bit. How do you think Kanger is churning out $40 DNA75's?
The point is they could make these things, and still profit, while selling them at a SLIGHTLY cheaper price, around $200 flat. This can be said about a lot of retail mods though, most no where near as nice as the Billet is.
You have to figure in the cost of those tools somewhere they were not free. That's business. I agree that the ones on resale are overpriced but its a product & demand situation and there are people buying them at that price. But they were also paying over $500 for that stupid 3d printed squonker....lol
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Dude don't even remind me of the fucking Frakenskull. They cloned it for like $15, I was laughing my ass off, even though I'm a modder and usually die inside when I see a clone that cheap as I know it HURTS the original designers.
I'm not knocking the $275 billets. Are they a bit pricey for what they are? Yes, but there are FAR worse offenders out there. The Billet is at least a nice box, the Frakenskull was.. well. You know.
I think that's where I disagree (which is perfectly fine) I think it is a very reasonable price. Shit I used to build Raptors and such back in the day and was getting $150 and they were no where near the quality of a billet box. To be honest I was trying to get an authentic BB for a 8 months. Finally I had a friend get one for me on a Saturday I was out of town. The next day after paying they sent an email stating they would not ship to Pennsylvania.... So being super depressed that night I looked online and guess what..........the clone was in production and I got on a group buy. I would still like to get an authentic and would pay retail but no more looking in classifieds for me.....lol
I believe around $150
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I've felt that sting man. It's never good. I used to sell OKR-T10 mods for $120 so I get what you mean, but what was a FAR different time. Now I just mostly make iPWM's.
And Frakenskulls were going for like $500. Not sure what they are now.
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That is market value not retail.
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I haven't seen them being sold in two months, the clone killed it seemingly. I mean obviously places still sell them, but I used to see resellers of them WAY more 2-3 months back.
I guess everyone looks at things in a certain light. I mean I paid $199 for the Nextiny and around the same for the Nextasis. But I enjoy them thoroughly and use them all the time so I guess they were worth it! Lol
At first I wasn't impressed because I had nothing but issues..... But those issues were all from my doing, I was using some mesh that I thought was #200sf but was actually #400!!! That does not work out good with 70/30 liquid. Got the correct mesh in there now and it's running like a dream!!! Yummy!!!
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Seems kind of pointless as you're never going to go balls to the wall, high drain with 40-60W maximums, but a 20700/21700 Billet Box seems like a novel idea in my head at the moment. I just like these new batteries and hate 18650's, so that's probably why I'm thinking this.
Either way, I personally can't stop using lipo's in everything I use. But I vape at 500W like a fucking lunatic so obviously I'm in the very low minority of people who can benefit from an 80A/160A battery like the 4S in my iPWM. Too bad most parts in the mods like connectors and the PWM regulator are only rated for 50-60A max.
Either way, I personally can't stop using lipo's in everything I use. But I vape at 500W like a fucking lunatic so obviously I'm in the very low minority of people who can benefit from an 80A/160A battery like the 4S in my iPWM. Too bad most parts in the mods like connectors and the PWM regulator are only rated for 50-60A max.
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I run in the 10-25 watt range most of the time in the BB so a Doo Doo lasts a whole day without issue. So for me personally I wouldn't want the extra few mm in size. But the guy running the A-Tank at 50w could benefit from the extra mahs.
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That's the main benefit, the mah. The Sanyo's are 3,500mah, which for a single battery mod would last quite a while if you stay under 40-50W. The one con, is like you said, it would be taller.
The only other option for increasing battery life are 26650's, which are way too big and would make the mod quite a bit larger, mostly thicker. A 20700 is pretty close to some higher drain 26650's in capacity and is much smaller overall.
The only other option for increasing battery life are 26650's, which are way too big and would make the mod quite a bit larger, mostly thicker. A 20700 is pretty close to some higher drain 26650's in capacity and is much smaller overall.
Imo you don't need more battery for the Billet Box it's not made for high wattage because the tank is plastic and for 500mah I don't think the size is worth it. If used around the 25-30 a Doo Doo or stinky pinky will last all day or close to it. Hahahaha you really hate 18650!!!! Did you have an accident with one or just carry to many around with you from vaping at 1000watts? Jk
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So it would appear that my Dober will be here before my Insider and SXK panels. Dammit!
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Do you also have an exocet? I was wondering if you'd give a quick comparison.
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I only have the Exocet as it stands now so I can't compare. I really like it but I would prefer a little bit more airflow. Flavor is outstanding!
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They are both easy to build on. The insider is easier because it has 510 threading so you can put it on any device and fire it to make sure your coils are glowing even. The Exocet requires you to put it all together and use the BB to fire it, so it's a pain in the butt. Wicking the insider can be tricky compared to the Exocet. Flavor on both is great, but prefer the insider due to its ease of use versus the Exocet. Airflow on the insider is also more customizable as well. You have two different chimney and AFC options as well on the insider. Hope this helps.
The Exocet is also threaded, you can connect to any 510 and dry fire it pre wicking
The 521 Tab ohm meters that have the option to fire the coil are SUPER convenient for that purpose!
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Thanks everyone for all the input. I can't wait to get my 521 tab and be able to use my exocet. The .7 ohm Nautilus 2 coils I'm using are just not cutting it. I have some Kanger coils coming my way, hopefully they will work until I'm able to get my tab.
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Unless I'm missing something mine has no threads?
You have to pull off the black AFC ring. It's bit of a bitch, but there's threading under it. Mind you, it isn't threaded on or anything. It's just held on by a tiny o-ring.
Oh and it requires a spring loaded 510 connection. You'll have to push it down before the threads will catch.
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Damn! Lol...since that's the case, I rescind my earlier statement about liking the insider better. The Exocet is a lot easier to get wicked correctly versus the insider. Thank you...the more you know!!
One of the many reasons this thread exists! You're very welcome!
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If you didn't already find this info:
Care Kit
Price:
$6.50
http://billetboxvapor.mybigcommerce (dot) com/care-kit/
Product Description
Kit Includes:
- 1 fill bottle & cap,
- plastic #16 gauge syringe tips,
- 4 Buna-N tank O-rings >>>> (1.5mm X 9mm), <<<<
- 2 Buna-N Brass Ring O-rings >>>>(1.5 X 5.5mm)<<<<
- 1 Orange Silicon Boro Gasket
So is it that we KNOW that hybrid drip tips for the OG don't fit the SXK version or that no one has tried it yet bc it's too damn expensive to take a chance on it??
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The thing with that is if you go to DHGate you can get another entire tank for that price. I usually get two. Now I have like 4 backups. Just in case. And it didn't take nearly as long as FT usually does or Gearbest. Fastest China shipping I've ever had.If you didn't already find this info:
Care Kit
Price:
$6.50
http://billetboxvapor.mybigcommerce (dot) com/care-kit/
Product Description
Kit Includes:
Everything you need to keep your Billet Box topped off, leak free, and mentally stable.
- 1 fill bottle & cap,
- plastic #16 gauge syringe tips,
- 4 Buna-N tank O-rings >>>> (1.5mm X 9mm), <<<<
- 2 Buna-N Brass Ring O-rings >>>>(1.5 X 5.5mm)<<<<
- 1 Orange Silicon Boro Gasket
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But do the tanks come with all the o-rings like his does?
