Eleaf iStick ... compact 20w box mod

[UncleRJ]

I am starting to wonder about the voltage output on these, I have two and I'm getting some really hot vape.
If I run a Aspire BDC at 1.6 or 1.8 I'm having to run them at 3.0v to get a vape that doesn't taste burnt.
Even running a coil of 2.5ohm if still running at 3.0v and getting a good vape.
Has anyone done a voltage accuracy check on these? I don't have the equipment to do it myself but I'm thinking something isn't right, it's just to hot.
If I had only one device I'd think it was defective but I have two, and when I switch the same Aspire used for testing, to the MVP or SVD or anything even the mechs it's way way different vape, I'm either missing something or these devices are firing real hot, I don't get it.
I've resorted to using my MVP again, and with the same Aspire and a 1.6ohm coil if running the MVP at 3.9 up to 4.2v and it's vapes perfect, I try that on this Istick and it's burnt taste and fast, really damn hot.
Any insight..??

A friend of mine purchased one of those hoping for a little more power than her MVP offered as well as a more compact size.

She was telling me that she had been cheerfully vaping on her Aspire on the MVP set at 11 watts, switched out the same tank and put it on her new Eleaf set at 11 watts. Told me that not only was the vapor a lot hotter but it tasted burnt as well.

She then set the Eleaf to 8 watts and the vapor was still a little warmer than the MVP at 11 watts but it stopped the burned taste.

We need someone with the right testing tools to take a peek at the output of these things.

 

[Lefty]

All you really need is an inline volt meter to see the real voltage output. A Smok Omnitester should work as well. I have both but no Istick to test until the 14th or so. There is probably a B&M near someone with one or the other handy that would check it for you.

 

[Sparks]

A friend of mine purchased one of those hoping for a little more power than her MVP offered as well as a more compact size.

She was telling me that she had been cheerfully vaping on her Aspire on the MVP set at 11 watts, switched out the same tank and put it on her new Eleaf set at 11 watts. Told me that not only was the vapor a lot hotter but it tasted burnt as well.

She then set the Eleaf to 8 watts and the vapor was still a little warmer than the MVP at 11 watts but it stopped the burned taste.

We need someone with the right testing tools to take a peek at the output of these things.

Thanks for all the input I've been getting, greatly relieved to hear just that, something amiss, I'm wondering is this a different sort of battery, than what is in the MVP for example or and IMR? Seems a small form factor with a big punch really and like the other mention of dumping ya I am really stumped, on how I can have this all the way in the basement at 3.0v and fire anything hot, the higher the ohm the better the vape, someone is going to come up with some test equipment, thought about putting an RDA on it plugin the probes to the RDA wire holes and see what happens, I believe it would only pulse like a regular drum voltage meter.
Everyone has been silent and this issue hasn't been raised far as I know and I am really glad to hear someone else is thinking the same thing, Thanks

 

[Sparks]

All you really need is an inline volt meter to see the real voltage output. A Smok Omnitester should work as well. I have both but no Istick to test until the 14th or so. There is probably a B&M near someone with one or the other handy that would check it for you.

I have 5 drum voltage tester this is pulse and it won't be read by any equipment I have, unless I've been doing something wrong, I tried that even knowing about pulse modulation I think it's called, but thank you

 

[Sparks]

All you really need is an inline volt meter to see the real voltage output. A Smok Omnitester should work as well. I have both but no Istick to test until the 14th or so. There is probably a B&M near someone with one or the other handy that would check it for you.

OK, so I did even knowing better and with the Omni tester, regular old dumb tester, drum inline won't even blink, omni flashes 888, glad it wasn't 666, that's means pulse width modulation I think, anything like SVD, MVP all chip sets I know of can't be read by what we all usually have, it takes someone with specialty equipment and if not someone please clue me in, I am not a smart ass, THIS is not ECF thankfully and I am always willing, always to learn something new, I did try your suggestion again, just because you took the time to try and help frankly, thank you very much...!!!

 

[Whiskey]

I saw this posted on another forum so I grabbed it.

There is a discussion going on elsewhere about the iStick. Another member created this chart. There are a few low watt/volt vapers that say these run too hot for them. I am a lower wattage vaper and have had zero issues so YMMV

Do keep in mind that this is someones theory. They have not tested a thing here.

ETA- Text that goes with this chart

I made a new chart showing what combinations of oHms/watts the iStick is capable of regulating. eLeaf/Joye U.S. confirmed with the manufacturer that the iStick does not have the capability to down regulate power.

The blue bars show what is fully regulated. The purple shows oHms/watts combos that are only regulated when the power level you have selected falls below the volts the battery is actually outputting. If the settings you have chosen are too low to be regulated the iStick screen shows values calculated from oHms law based on your chosen settings rather than showing the actual power coming from the battery that is going to the coil.

For example, if you are using a 1.8 oHm coil the iStick will fully regulated your vape between 10 and 16 watts. However, if you want to vape your 1.8 oHm coil at 7 watts you can not do so until the battery output falls below 3.6 volts. In practice, this would mean you would start vaping at 10 watts with a freshly charged battery with the temperature of the vape going lower until the battery was actually outputting below 3.6 volts. The iStick would then regulate your vape at 7 watts until the battery needed to be recharged. The screen will reflect 7 watts/3.5 volts irrespective what volts are actually being output to the coil.

Using the iStick in voltage mode doesn't change the fact that the iStick is not capable of reducing the power coming from the battery. If the battery is freshly charged, producing around 4.2 volts, and you have set the voltage to 3.8 the iStick will be delivering 4.2 volts, not 3.8 volts, to your coil.

The iStick will not allow you to select a power setting that requires more volts than is allowed in its regulated range. It will stop at the highest setting that the chip can regulate.


The data I used is from doing oHms law calculations. The device may produce something a bit different in actual use. So far, I haven't seen any reviews for the iStick using reliable electronic testing equipment to check its accuracy.

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

 

[Hermit]

I saw this posted on another forum so I grabbed it.

eLeaf/Joye U.S. confirmed with the manufacturer that the iStick does not have the capability to down regulate power.

WTF?! That sucks... the claim on the eleaf site is:

4. Adjustable voltage: The voltage is adjustable vary from 3.0V to 5.5V according to your vaping habit.

Adjustable from 3.0V... but only for a few brief moments before it shuts down from 'low voltage' (which I'm guessing is also 3.0V?).

edit: seems the chart was not created by good testing with proper equipment... am withholding judgement for now...

 

[Sparks]

You know what I got half way through your fantastic work there and it all became very clear and put all the pieces together for me, I ran one down yesterday just to see if the bar actually flashed as they said when it's going to be needing a recharge and I noticed exactly what you just said, the vape was perfect when at about half charge, damn that's is really actually messed up frankly, I was thinking down those lines but you just connected all the dots, that's not a good device honestly, why didn't they disclose that prior to my buying two of these things, so now effectively in order for me to get a decent vape I have to leave it at half charged so 1000 maH?? WTF, I'm not to pleased and I knew that thing was way way to hot and that definetly explains it all, JOB WELL DONE thank you, now what? I suspect this is a POS??
It's not like I don't have the equipment to vape with but I bought this to actually replace the MVP, looks to me like now the MVP is NOT dead, not even remotely, at least I can vape at what I want with a full charge, if I wanted to vape at 4.2 I could just use that puny stingray X mod, Man alive that is really a flaw big time IMHO, well glad to know and thanks to you clarified that I am not crazy, I am a bit pissed though, great looking product and all but you can't regulate the power????? What good is it then honestly or am I looking at this all wrong?

 

[Sparks]

I am starting to think that no disclosure about this warrants refunds..! I am not happy and it all started here??

 

[Sparks]

I'm feeling my blood pressure messing up, and I don't even have blood pressure issues, yet..!

 

[Sparks]

Say Whiskey, "Oh NO you didn't" Good job my friend, really glad you posted that, sure cleared it up for me.. Now what?

 

[Whiskey]

WTF?! That sucks... the claim on the eleaf site is:



Adjustable from 3.0V... but only for a few brief moments before it shuts down from 'low voltage' (which I'm guessing is also 3.0V?).

 

[Whiskey]

Say Whiskey, "Oh NO you didn't" Good job my friend, really glad you posted that, sure cleared it up for me.. Now what?

 

[cherrycakes]

Well crap glad I didn't buy the pretty blue one now...

 

[Whiskey]

That was a theory they posted, I have no idea what is what, I do know for my liking its working great for me and Tons better than my MVP ever did. So I am happy with mine...(all 5 of them...LOL)

 

[Whiskey]

In that same conversation I found, here is another in answer to the chart, so I am as confused as you all are.

The problem I think is the op of the chart says the device doesn't "down regulate" and only "regulates" above battery levels. Sounds to me like he's talking about "boost", not "regulation". Or at least only talking about true watt monitoring & regulation. If you have the ability to regulate the voltage to say 3.0 volts (which I think the iStick can surely do) and send it to a 1.8 ohm coil, as long as your battery is at least 3.0 volts or higher, Ohm's law says you will only push 1.66 amps through the circuit, which is 5 watts. It's regulation regardless as long as the device keeps the voltage at 3.0 volts and the coil stays at 1.8 ohms as it heats. Same for a 2.1 ohm coil regulated to 3.0 volts for 1.43 amps giving 4.3 watts.

True that in the last example it may be regulating voltage rather than watts, but it's low watts (4.3) and regulation nonetheless.

I haven't tested a darn thing, just using logic. And besides I think I'm a low watt vaper at 5 to 6 watts, and sensitive to burnt juice. In the am when I wake up and am most sensitive, my 5 or 5.5 indicated watts with my overnight charged battery taste just like the ones at the end of two days when I go to bed and put it on charge.

 

[Hermit]

That was a theory they posted, I have no idea what is what, I do know for my liking its working great for me and Tons better than my MVP ever did. So I am happy with mine...(all 5 of them...LOL)

Well, thanks for posting it Can't decide whether to try and cancel my order (for 2), or stick with it and sell one when they get here. I will be able to test the output on a 'scope, but it's quite likely someone else will do it before me.

What wattage and ohms do you vape at, btw?

 

[kelli]

mine shipped yesterday!

 

[Whiskey]

Well, thanks for posting it Can't decide whether to try and cancel my order (for 2), or stick with it and sell one when they get here. I will be able to test the output on a 'scope, but it's quite likely someone else will do it before me.

What wattage and ohms do you vape at, btw?

5.4v on a kanger 1.5 coil

 

[Whiskey]

One last post from that thread and I need to stop...LOL

From the descriptions posted of measurements with Smok meters and other in-line meters it would appear that the iStick is using PWM. The same PWM that the MVP, Provari, ZMax, and Vamo uses, it's the additional circuitry that makes the difference in the final output to your coil, not PWM or duty cycle (misnamed frequency). (the cheap meters cannot accurately measure these)

PWM outputs a square or sawtooth waveform that then must be smoothed and filtered with capacitors and chokes, same as your computer's power supply takes 120 volts AC 60 htz and provides a flat 5 volts DC to the digital circuitry +-.01 volts and millivolts of ripple. It would seem these APV don't filter perfectly, wouldn't expect them to for the size and price.

That said I've found some tanks and toppers are more sensitive to the ripple in the output of some mods. I have some very old regulated mods that have a very poor smoothing and filtering, they will run some toppers very hot, have to turn them way down. Those same toppers will function normally on my MVP at a higher number, but will vape fine if I adjust to taste, not numbers. I bet if these were labeled Low - Medimum - High, everyone could adjust them to where they vape well.

I still vape a number of my old unregulated mod quite often, with a fresh battery they run hot for the coils I build. I simply pulse the fire button on and off while taking a draw until the 4.2 volt surface charge drops to the 3.9 volt range.

I plan on picking up one or two of these puppies once they are widely available, I have enough to hold me a few years, so no rush. It would appear these should run what used to be considered standard ohms, (2.5-3.0Ω) very well. Maybe break out some of my old 801 atomizers, although they ran 3.2Ω standard, but may still fire hot enough for me.

 

[Lefty]

OK, so I did even knowing better and with the Omni tester, regular old dumb tester, drum inline won't even blink, omni flashes 888, glad it wasn't 666, that's means pulse width modulation I think, anything like SVD, MVP all chip sets I know of can't be read by what we all usually have, it takes someone with specialty equipment and if not someone please clue me in, I am not a smart ass, THIS is not ECF thankfully and I am always willing, always to learn something new, I did try your suggestion again, just because you took the time to try and help frankly, thank you very much...!!!

The Omni may not but a regular inline drum meter should. I can use it to check voltage output on my Cloupor Cana (with an atty attached not just the meter) as well as my VV (this one works with or without the atty). It will work with the SID but since it uses PWM it will jump around some and not give a steady reading but will give a decent ballpark number. That may be the case with the Istick. I'm not sure whether it uses PWM or not. I suggested the Omni as I know it's supposed to function as an inline reader as well. I haven't used it that way as I already have an inline and it's simply easier to use. Don't know why the Istick won't.
Edit: With the atty attached there will be some voltage drop but it's still a reasonable ballpark of the voltage delivered to the atty.
Edit: Double checked and with the SID and PWM it's useless. Actually works fine with the VV and Cana though. If the Istick uses that kind of PWM it's odd that it won't buck voltage down as well.

 

[Bold Vapor]

mine shipped yesterday!

Did you order from Ace of Vapes?

 

[kelli]

Did you order from Ace of Vapes?

no, from LA Vapor

 

[Hermit]

5.4v on a kanger 1.5 coil

5.4 volts? That's quite high, would be within the range they suspect it works correctly at.

 

[Bold Vapor]

no, from LA Vapor

Aaaargh!!!!

 

[Whiskey]

5.4 volts? That's quite high, would be within the range they suspect it works correctly at.

That's exactly what it is reading right now, Hang on I will grab a pic

 

[Whiskey]

 

[Hermit]

That's exactly what it is reading right now, Hang on I will grab a pic

Oh, I believed you, dunno why I put a '?' in there, more rhetorical realy

Looking at the thread that chart came from, and it does seem that the chart could well be wrong - based on a crappy smok volt meter, lol. But with 100 more pages to wade through, and just got past two pages of a "my first device cost more and had less power than yours" contest, I lost the will to read it

 

[Whiskey]

Thats why I picked out only a couple of posts from it...LOL, it lost me at metering.... but I knew you guys would know what it was about...puff puff, I just vape these things

 

[Sparks]

One last post from that thread and I need to stop...LOL

From the descriptions posted of measurements with Smok meters and other in-line meters it would appear that the iStick is using PWM. The same PWM that the MVP, Provari, ZMax, and Vamo uses, it's the additional circuitry that makes the difference in the final output to your coil, not PWM or duty cycle (misnamed frequency). (the cheap meters cannot accurately measure these)

PWM outputs a square or sawtooth waveform that then must be smoothed and filtered with capacitors and chokes, same as your computer's power supply takes 120 volts AC 60 htz and provides a flat 5 volts DC to the digital circuitry +-.01 volts and millivolts of ripple. It would seem these APV don't filter perfectly, wouldn't expect them to for the size and price.

That said I've found some tanks and toppers are more sensitive to the ripple in the output of some mods. I have some very old regulated mods that have a very poor smoothing and filtering, they will run some toppers very hot, have to turn them way down. Those same toppers will function normally on my MVP at a higher number, but will vape fine if I adjust to taste, not numbers. I bet if these were labeled Low - Medimum - High, everyone could adjust them to where they vape well.

I still vape a number of my old unregulated mod quite often, with a fresh battery they run hot for the coils I build. I simply pulse the fire button on and off while taking a draw until the 4.2 volt surface charge drops to the 3.9 volt range.

I plan on picking up one or two of these puppies once they are widely available, I have enough to hold me a few years, so no rush. It would appear these should run what used to be considered standard ohms, (2.5-3.0Ω) very well. Maybe break out some of my old 801 atomizers, although they ran 3.2Ω standard, but may still fire hot enough for me.

I can clearly see why you are staff and moderator, great stuff my friend lots of respect for your opinions and facts and you are absolutely right about the higher ohms, I went to the old coils 2.0 and above to 3ohm and pulled out some VG heavy stuff and this device works OK, BUT I still have it set at 3.0v to get close to MY vape, so again this conversation is about what you like and then of course hard facts would be very nice to know for sure at least for me I like to know everything that's going on with my equipment and I just felt something wasn't right with this very cool little device and it does torche up like no other but it shouldn't so this is a really crappy chip set is all I can figure either all on? or wait and then adjust maybe to what you want that was a great chart and good damn info and all of it is correct IMO at one level or other,
Really what will need to be done is for someone like what's his name over at ECF badattitude the battery brain, you'll know who I'm talking about, someone like that with all the equipment and brilliance to make the final conclusion.
I also want to say, especially to you Whiskey thank you so very much, since I first posted my thoughts earlier, this page has really taken off with comments and I thank everyone for the extremely civil way in which this has been discussed.
You know folks had this been that other site, do you realize how badly I would have been mocked???
For raising what I thought was a valid question or suspicion at the least, I had to really think about asking or raising that subject just because of that other sites bad experiences for me anyhow back when I was very new to vaping and if you asked a question that seemed stupid to someone who'd been vaping for awhile you'd be ridiculed to a point of shame and this site I've noticed and I've been watching just doesn't do that.. Why is that???
And it has nothing to do with a moderators heavy hand.
Simple answer I think, just a very high class members and I'll tell you what had one individual not been censored so badly and even banned I guess it was we would not have this fantastic site so look at all the good that came out of that situation, I am so impressed with everyone here and so very much appreciate all of you and the input, and especially you Mr. Whiskey..

 

[cherrycakes]

Mrs whiskey

 

[Sparks]

Thats why I picked out only a couple of posts from it...LOL, it lost me at metering.... but I knew you guys would know what it was about...puff puff, I just vape these things

LMAOF, You are most certainly the right man for your job, ha ha ha ha, puff puff... LOL you really made my day, thank you so much..!!!

 

[Whiskey]

Simple answer I think, just a very high class members and I'll tell you what had one individual not been censored so badly and even banned I guess it was we would not have this fantastic site so look at all the good that came out of that situation, I am so impressed with everyone here and so very much appreciate all of you and the input, and especially you Mrs. Whiskey..

FTFY, & thanks a million buddy >Wink<

 

[Sparks]

oops , Sorry Mrs Whiskey, oh I hate that when that happens, urggggh, cringe, hang head bounce forehead off desk 10 times type moments, your are though bad ass..!!

 

[Whiskey]

oops , Sorry Mrs Whiskey, oh I hate that when that happens, urggggh, cringe, hang head bounce forehead off desk 10 times type moments, your are though bad ass..!!

the Avatar gave it away, right??? LOL

 

[Sparks]

What are you running?
Your own build on a RDA or other?
And juice, heavy VG?? That's hot, wow
I have equipment that will vape up to 100 watts but NEVER have I even got close, just bought the dumb thing for wow factor

 

[Sparks]

the Avatar gave it away, right??? LOL

Ah, hold on a second...................... OK I'm done banging brainless head on desk again, honestly I was so into the topic I really never looked at your avatar but I am now... wow, hey hold on a minute, you never know these days.. LOL oh boy, I'm going to go hide now, thank you very much...

 

[Whiskey]

What are you running?
Your own build on a RDA or other? Just mostly tanks like T3's's or like I said earlier the david Mini's (no RBI's)
And juice, heavy VG?? That's hot, wow 70/30
I have equipment that will vape up to 100 watts but NEVER have I even got close, just bought the dumb thing for wow factor

 

[Jackson]

I got one and it seems fine. The PWM frequency is a tad higher than than most, 48hz vs.33hz. I just tried a few loaded voltage voltage tests using my multimeter. It's showing 2.2Ω for an Aspire. I have it set to voltage mode. The battery bar shows half.

- 3.5 meter reads 3.45V
- 3.9 meter reads 3.87V
- 4.0 meter reads 3.96V
- 4.2 meter reads 4.16V
- 5.0 meter reads 4.99V

I guess I'll need to repeat the test with a full charge from what I've read.

 

[Mommay]

Mine came today. Since I'm not a high wattage/voltage vaper, don't sub ohm & am just looking for a nice, convenient, comfortable carrying vale, I am happy. I've got my mini Nauti, with 1.8 ohm coil & set to 3.4v - which puts me at 6.8 watts. (yea, I know - I'm a wattage wimp). I'm getting good flavor & vapor from my Nicoticket Apricot liquid. I am almost a 100% fruit vape person, so run lower power almost always. I did bump the istick up to 5.5v (17.7 w) with no issues of burning - just a much too warm vape for my preference. I'll continue to play w/different settings, but my fruit & I are content right now. I read a very good poser on Reddit last night about the DNA type devices and various sweet-spot settings. when I get on my computer later< I'll post the link. It was very enlightening (and surprising).

Here's my new toy, with J-wrap on the way.

 

[kelli]

Mine came today. Since I'm not a high wattage/voltage vaper, don't sub ohm & am just looking for a nice, convenient, comfortable carrying vale, I am happy. I've got my mini Nauti, with 1.8 ohm coil & set to 3.4v - which puts me at 6.8 watts. (yea, I know - I'm a wattage wimp). I'm getting good flavor & vapor from my Nicoticket Apricot liquid. I am almost a 100% fruit vape person, so run lower power almost always. I did bump the istick up to 5.5v (17.7 w) with no issues of burning - just a much too warm vape for my preference. I'll continue to play w/different settings, but my fruit & I are content right now. I read a very good poser on Reddit last night about the DNA type devices and various sweet-spot settings. when I get on my computer later< I'll post the link. It was very enlightening (and surprising).

Here's my new toy, with J-wrap on the way. View attachment 6639

it's so cute!

we think very much alike. if it tastes good to us and it ain't broke, why fix it? no way do i need 50 or 100 or 150 watts....it's just all overkill to me.

 

[Midniteoyl]

mine shipped yesterday!

My wifes shipped yesterday as well

 

[Sparks]

I got one and it seems fine. The PWM frequency is a tad higher than than most, 44hz vs.33hz. I just tried a few loaded voltage voltage tests using my multimeter. It's showing 2.2Ω for an Aspire. I have it set to voltage mode. The battery bar shows half.

- 3.5 meter reads 3.45V
- 3.9 meter reads 3.87V
- 4.0 meter reads 3.96V
- 4.2 meter reads 4.16V
- 5.0 meter reads 4.99V

I guess I'll need to repeat the test with a full charge from what I've read.

Yes please do with a fully charged, I think I might have found the page Whiskey had quoted from regarding the Istick being unable to down regulate, if it's fully charged to 4.2v and you set it to 3.8v you are going to get 4.2 until it reaches 3.6v then it up regulates up, that's not how this was marketed and I knew something wasn't right and the person who made this chart, http://ejuicemonthly.net/?p=1259 used the numbers, volts, that I was having issues with exactly, so this explains why my vape was really darn hot, PG and light VG scorches and makes a really rotten tasting vape, I am personally not to happy with what I see as false advertising, damn what a major let down for what appeared to be the MVP killer, I think not, not at all now.

 

[Sparks]

I guess at the end of the day, it's all in what each person vapes, how, what I guess, so I suppose I'll have to run it all the way out and only charge it to 3.6 volts to get 3.8 volts? Sounds dumb to me, that's my sweet spot for 90% of my juice, I make my own and anything higher than 3.9v starts to taste burnt, hum I hate change, but I like the device, what a goof up on Eleafs part picking chip sets, well seen worse that's for sure. At least I know what I suspected now thanks to all the good help here..!

 

[Sparks]

Huh, OK so it doesn't down regulate, well I just figured out something here, I think..!!!
I'm looking at my voltage set at 3.0 ohms and when I screw on a 1.8ohm coil the watts automatically goes to 5.0 watts, self regulating watts? that's the equivalent of just under 3.8 volts????
So if you want to vape a 1.8ohm at around 3.8volts on a freshly charged battery you do have to turn it down to about 3.0 to 3.1volts and then if you look at the watts you see what your really vaping at, wow I think I'm right but certainly open for enlightenment... LOL... This has seriously messed with what I have self diagnosed as sever OCD and I'm no doctor, and that's not open for comments thank you very much Now I've really asked for it..LOL

Update: Complete BS, my math was WAY off, OCD was dead on though and the part about being no doctor

 

[mark]

New, And Shiny.. Had to pre-order one.

 

[Jackson]

Yes please do with a fully charged, I think I might have found the page Whiskey had quoted from regarding the Istick being unable to down regulate, if it's fully charged to 4.2v and you set it to 3.8v you are going to get 4.2 until it reaches 3.6v

You are on the right track, but keep in mind that as soon as you press the fire button there will be voltage sag, I imagine that a 3.9V setting should still do the trick. With a heavier load (lower ohms) even 3.8V may work.

You'll note the DNA20 works the same way and its spec'd at 4V at the low end.

I've got a 1.1Ω coil on it now, I'll see what it reads in the morning.

That said even though my $30 multimeter reads the volts (those little inline meters won't) some might say they aren't correct.

 

[AquaJoe]

I am having the same problem with mine, it is firing hot. I usually vape at 2.2Ω at 4.2volts. When I first got it thats what I set it to. Around the 3rd day it started to fire very hot and burn my juice. Very harsh. I thought it might be the coil, so I changed it out and got the same dry burnt hit. I ended up lowering the voltage all the way down to 3volts and slowly upped the volts to taste, 3.7volts. This seemed to fix the problem. My battery was about half way when this happened.

I don't know why it was working great for 3 days and all the sudden it started firing hot. I tired both VV and VW and it still fired hot. Once I lowered the voltage to taste, about 3.7 volts, it has been working great.

I tried to use my inline volt meter, but since it uses PWM it would not read. I would really like to find out exactly how much power this little guy is putting out.

 

[tombaker]

A friend of mine purchased one of those hoping for a little more power than her MVP offered as well as a more compact size.

She was telling me that she had been cheerfully vaping on her Aspire on the MVP set at 11 watts, switched out the same tank and put it on her new Eleaf set at 11 watts. Told me that not only was the vapor a lot hotter but it tasted burnt as well.

She then set the Eleaf to 8 watts and the vapor was still a little warmer than the MVP at 11 watts but it stopped the burned taste.

We need someone with the right testing tools to take a peek at the output of these things.

This is why I am waiting on PBusardo review. I am looking for clean power. I used a Siegeli Zmax vs a Sigelei 20W, watt for watt, and you could clearly tell the 20W Yihicigar chip was doing way better than the rattlesnake.

I have heard multiple reports of it running hot. It would make sense if its PWM, and sending 20W, then 6 watts, flipping back and forth to get you 13 watts total. Each time it sends max power, the juice burns, then goes back down.

I would have kept the 20W Yihi, except it did not go below 7 watts. The SVD Evolv will step down. As would anything based off a SX350.
eleaf is already asking for feedback for their version 2, on reddit. So it could be a few months before that comes out.

I think if you are using higher watts, you won't notice it much, but say 7-8 watts, if its a sharp PWM, you will taste it.

 

[Jackson]

Well I just repeated the loaded voltages tests with a fully charged battery with an Aspire that it reads as 2.2Ω.

Don't know what to tell yas. Again I have it set to voltage mode.

- 3v setting, meter reads 3.00V
- 3.5V meter reads 3.47V
- 4V meter reads 3.97V
- 5.5V meter reads 5.48V

Here's a strange anomaly. I twisted up a 1.1Ω coil that has settled in at 1Ω. I set the voltage to 4.2V, again my multimeter reads true. It fires it with no problem, but it really runs on after releasing the fire button, sometimes for 3+ seconds (there is a very slight run-on with the Aspire). But that is not what I got it for. I wanted a small, light, easy to use and charge PV to use with the Aspire (the original VIVI style) when out at the tavern for a few hours or running some errands. For that it is quite nice and I'm glad I got it. Hopefully it will continue to work like it does now.

In general I guess all the voltages do feel a tad hotter (the PWM effect). But with the Aspire there is a noticeable difference in the vape at 3V vs.4V. Mine came from the second round, is it different? Who knows.

Just tossing this out, have no idea what to really make of any of it. I guess some scope tests are in order.