IPV 4s Check Atomizer Error :(

[gt_thegame]

Hi everyone,

I have seen a few related posts here but haven't been able to find a definitive solution.

Recently I changed my flavor after cleaning the tank thoroughly and after placing everything back together, I tried firing up the mod but it gave me an error - check atomizer.

Everything worked fine before this and I have even tried checking that all the contacts are nice and tight.

Please help me out and help fix this issue. Have tried watching videos as well trying to fix this but nothing so far has helped.

Thanks

 

[Mike H.]

1.) make sure the coils are tightened and not shorting on something inside the tank.

2.).)make sure you don't have wire touching where it shouldn't be

3.)make sure your ohms aren't too high or too low for the mods capabilities.

4.)give the 510 center pin a few presses to make sure its not stuck.

5.)Water is conductive so make sure you don't have a lot of water on the 510 connection and make sure the 510 on the mod is dry

About the best I can come up with..if all that checks out ok then its possible the board in the mod is malfunctioning.

 

[gt_thegame]

Thanks for the reply. Here is what I did and require more help.

1. Coils are tight, how can I check if something is shorting inside the tank? Since I am a beginner in vaping, can you give me some image references so it is easy to follow.

2. Didn't touch the coil wire at all, is there a other wire I should be looking at?

3. So I just found out that the mod is showing 0.0 ohms. :/ not sure why this is happening. I have uploaded a picture of the same. Any ideas?

4. Did that but to make sure I'm pressing the right pin please share an image.

5. Didn't use water at all for the entire cleaning process.

Please help and thanks in advance

 

[IMFire3605]

1) the coil head itself, the bottom pin has the pin, an insulator, then the bottom of the coil. Pinched between the pin and insulator is the positive lead of the wire, and pinched between the insulator and the bottom of the coil head will be the negative lead of the coil wire. These two leads should be flush or just about hidden, if the positive lead has twisted out of position to protrude would cause a dead short once seated down into the base, this dead short would read as 0.0ohms. Just one plase to look, looking down inside the coil head from the top if you can, check the coil hasn't shifted from dead center and not making contact with the wall of the coil head, this like above will cause a dead short, only positive on a coil is at the very bottom with the pin, rest of the coil head and most of the tank is negative.
2) The base of the tank, check the pin at the bottom there is protruding out a bit, this is the second positive of the whole tank, if it can't make contact with the mod 510 pin and the pin of the coil head, no electricity can flow, will give a shorted atomizer or 0.0ohm reading, also check for any loose wire snippets, any juice, any thing that can arc a short between the pin and threads of the base of the tank.
3) Using a paper clip, or toothpick, on the mod itself use the tool to go around the mod 510 pin and gently pry around the pin to help pry it up from being recessed in the insulator below it, this a lot of times fixes things but just one a many places to check. After that, get a couple q-tip/cottom swabs and some rubbing alcohol, dipping a cotton swap in a cap full of the rubbing alcohol, and thoroughly wipe the threads and pin area clean here, may take a couple cotton swabs to do it, once you are no longer getting black gunk out of the connector it is cleaned and should be bare metal, this will increase conductivity. Use a dry cotton swab to clean up alcohol residue and make sure the connector is dry, this is basic weekly to monthly maintenance on a mod, gunk = bad for electrical connections.

hth a bit more.

 

[gt_thegame]

I think I tried this but just to make sure I am doing the right thing can you please share an image of the pin and where it should connect please?

 

[IMFire3605]

Which tank are you using?? In any case there are 3 pins. The mod pin in the connector, this is the mod to tank connection. 2nd in the bottom tank base pin, this is the middle or transition pin. 3rd is the coil head bottom pin.

Mod Pin -> Tank Base Pin -> Coil Head Bottom Pin

Any one of those pin to pin contacts are not making contact, the whole circuit is open instead of closed, no readings no firing. Just check all 3 are in proper working order, no damaged insulators, no pins recessed or flush with their respective components.

Mod connection pin should look like this (note, if that very center pin is not spring loaded, then you can adjust that pin with a flat head screw driver, haven't seen an IPV4S is about 16months personally, forget how the connection operates myself)
//images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/10/18c7f047fcd26f82cd73bb3b481272aa.jpg

510 threads and pin on the base of a tank should look something similar to this (this is the base 510 pin for the Aspire Nautilus in images, notice how the pin sticks out from the threads, it should not be flush with the threads or recessed)
http://www.aspirecig.com/uploads/allimg/140328/2-14032QG409346.jpg
http://www.aspirecig.com/uploads/allimg/140328/2-14032QF101945.jpg

Coil head pin (image is of a nautilus coil head, the white rubber gromet flush and above the bottom pin is the coil lead insulator of the coil head)
http://www.aspirecig.com/uploads/allimg/140331/2-1403312042423G.jpg

 

[gt_thegame]

Which tank are you using?? In any case there are 3 pins. The mod pin in the connector, this is the mod to tank connection. 2nd in the bottom tank base pin, this is the middle or transition pin. 3rd is the coil head bottom pin.

Mod Pin -> Tank Base Pin -> Coil Head Bottom Pin

Any one of those pin to pin contacts are not making contact, the whole circuit is open instead of closed, no readings no firing. Just check all 3 are in proper working order, no damaged insulators, no pins recessed or flush with their respective components.

Mod connection pin should look like this (note, if that very center pin is not spring loaded, then you can adjust that pin with a flat head screw driver, haven't seen an IPV4S is about 16months personally, forget how the connection operates myself)
//images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/10/18c7f047fcd26f82cd73bb3b481272aa.jpg

510 threads and pin on the base of a tank should look something similar to this (this is the base 510 pin for the Aspire Nautilus in images, notice how the pin sticks out from the threads, it should not be flush with the threads or recessed)
http://www.aspirecig.com/uploads/allimg/140328/2-14032QG409346.jpg
http://www.aspirecig.com/uploads/allimg/140328/2-14032QF101945.jpg

Coil head pin (image is of a nautilus coil head, the white rubber gromet flush and above the bottom pin is the coil lead insulator of the coil head)
http://www.aspirecig.com/uploads/allimg/140331/2-1403312042423G.jpg

Im using the kangertech sub tank mini plus

 

[gt_thegame]

So I tried my mod with another atomizer and it works fine... So the problem is narrowed down to the atmozer.

Any ideas how to troubleshoot and fix that? I have no idea what the problem could be?

 

[Vapin4Joy]

Use a small screwdriver or even a Q Tip and from inside the base push the center contact down.

 

[gt_thegame]

Use a small screwdriver or even a Q Tip and from inside the base push the center contact down.

Tried doing that but no result yet... The problem started when I thoiroighly cleaned my atomizer... But donno what went wrong or how to fix it... sigh!

 

[Vapin4Joy]

I had a IPV4, it had a lousy 510.

 

[Mike H.]

Thanks for the reply. Here is what I did and require more help.

1. Coils are tight, how can I check if something is shorting inside the tank? Since I am a beginner in vaping, can you give me some image references so it is easy to follow.

2. Didn't touch the coil wire at all, is there a other wire I should be looking at?

3. So I just found out that the mod is showing 0.0 ohms. :/ not sure why this is happening. I have uploaded a picture of the same. Any ideas?

4. Did that but to make sure I'm pressing the right pin please share an image.

5. Didn't use water at all for the entire cleaning process.

Please help and thanks in advance

Try a new coil inside the tank and see if that solves it...If its not the coil itself then the 510 on the tank will be at fault.

 

[gt_thegame]

Unfortunately I don't have another coil that fits the atomizer. I have tried taking it off completely and putting it back together but the problem persists.

Can someone please send me a step by step disassembly of the kangertech subtank mini plus so that I know where I am going wrong? I am completely lost here.

Also just a thought, is there a wire connecting the copper wire part of the coil and the bottom part that is removable?

 

[gt_thegame]

Unfortunately I don't have another coil that fits the atomizer. I have tried taking it off completely and putting it back together but the problem persists.

Can someone please send me a step by step disassembly of the kangertech subtank mini plus so that I know where I am going wrong? I am completely lost here.

Also just a thought, is there a wire connecting the copper wire part of the coil and the bottom part that is removable?

I mean the bottom part of the coil with the airholes... Does it have a connecting wire? Everything else seems to be connected well...

 

[IMFire3605]

Only wire for the coil head is the actual internal coil, generally made of Kanthal A1 or NiChrome resistance wire (wattage only), if the coil head is an SS0CC head you might have Stainless Steel as the resistance wire (which can bounce between wattage only or temperature control), where Ni200 Nickel and Titanium are (temperature control only), copper wire would be a no go given all the the chemicals that come off of copper are a no go health wise.

Your Connection should have 3 contact points

Mod 510 pin and threads ( ===| )
Tank Base 510 Pin and threads ( |===| )
Coil head contact pin at the coil base ( |=== )

The chain of connections should look like this

===||===||===Coil Wire

But if there is a gap in any of these connections

===| |===||===Coil Wire
===||===| |===Coil Wire
or ===||===||=== Coil Wire

You will lose connection as there will be a break in the circuit.

The Kanger Subtank kits (not including the Nano versions), mini and larger plus versions even with kits come with a RBA head (or rebuildable head). This head should have a pre-wound coil installed, just needs wicking, but for purposes to rule out the coil you are using, just need to put the RBA head onto the tank base and the tank base onto the mod. If the mod reads the RBA resistance at all, rules out the connection at the tank base and mod connection, the short or problem is in the tank base to coil head connection or the coil head itself. Looking at the bases of all my Subtanks/Toptanks, there should be no wire at all for the base to coil head connection, just straight pin to pin. If the mod still doesn't read a resistance, the problem is at the mod to tank base connection pins, one or both are to recessed to make proper connection.

 

[gt_thegame]

So everything I have tried has failed till now.. I will go back home and click some pictures of the atomizer and share here... Maybe that would enable you all to help me better...

 

[gt_thegame]

Here are the images of the coil and the bottom part of the atomizer. I have trier pushing down the pins and checking connections but nothing seems to work.

Can you guys let me know if something seems off and help me make it work. It stopped working after I did a through clean of the atomizer.

 

[IMFire3605]

Okay, I've highlighted some areas to look at thoroughly

RBA Head
1) The Coil itself, should be suspended above the air inlet and spaced between the two terminal, only contact the coil should have with the rest of the base is at the two terminals under the trap screws.
2) Terminals, the trap screws should be snug down on the wire to hold it in place, excess wire should be cut flush to the outside of the terminals, if any wire touches the outer barrel, will cause a short, thus can cause a 0.0ohm reading, especially if it is the positive wire, only positve contact should be from the pin/air inlet, positve block with an insulator under it, and the positive trap screw, the rest of the coil "Deck" is negative, the outer barrel seats down on the deck itself and makes un-insulated contact, so can make a direct path.
3) The positive pin/air inlet on the bottom, inspect its lower insulator and the insulator of the positive block terminal above this.

Tank Base
1) The very center contact pin is free floating, held only by friction with the insulator. It should protrude up enough to contact the coil head bottom pinm also it needs to protrude past the bottom connector threads, being brass, it is harder than copper as it contains tin and other elements, but it is still softer than the stainless surrounding it. if you torque things together to tight you could compress it long ways and swell it outward in the same principle of snugging up a rivet.
2) In the boxed lettering, this might be the culprit of the whole thing, that little nub denoted and "Possible Issue". If this protrudes enough it could keep the coil head from seating down fully to make contact with the base pin below. File and sand this down flush to the rest of the top of that threading ring right there.

The last issue will be at the mod itself, the IPV4 and IPV4S are notorious for having issue with the contact pin and the 510 connector in general, if you have another tank/atomizer to test read and fire with the mod, this would rule the mod not entirely out of the picture, if it doesn't fire or read another tank/atomizer the issue is with the mod. However... Kanger Subtanks and many of this latest generation of Kanger tanks have very long 510 threads and base pins, these can force a mod 510 pin down to far it can spring back up properly or needs to be wiggled and pryed back up into normal position.

Troubleshooting a vape over a computer screen is like troubleshooting a computer with someone over the phone, I can guide you to where to look at, but without the devices in hand all I can do is guidance. If you can't fix this on your own, take the tank and mod down to your local vape shop to have them look at it, nothing else I can do for you, sorry, but other than the little nub I've highlighted on the re-attached images, I've repeated where to look several times.

 

[gt_thegame]

Okay, I've highlighted some areas to look at thoroughly

RBA Head
1) The Coil itself, should be suspended above the air inlet and spaced between the two terminal, only contact the coil should have with the rest of the base is at the two terminals under the trap screws.
2) Terminals, the trap screws should be snug down on the wire to hold it in place, excess wire should be cut flush to the outside of the terminals, if any wire touches the outer barrel, will cause a short, thus can cause a 0.0ohm reading, especially if it is the positive wire, only positve contact should be from the pin/air inlet, positve block with an insulator under it, and the positive trap screw, the rest of the coil "Deck" is negative, the outer barrel seats down on the deck itself and makes un-insulated contact, so can make a direct path.
3) The positive pin/air inlet on the bottom, inspect its lower insulator and the insulator of the positive block terminal above this.

Tank Base
1) The very center contact pin is free floating, held only by friction with the insulator. It should protrude up enough to contact the coil head bottom pinm also it needs to protrude past the bottom connector threads, being brass, it is harder than copper as it contains tin and other elements, but it is still softer than the stainless surrounding it. if you torque things together to tight you could compress it long ways and swell it outward in the same principle of snugging up a rivet.
2) In the boxed lettering, this might be the culprit of the whole thing, that little nub denoted and "Possible Issue". If this protrudes enough it could keep the coil head from seating down fully to make contact with the base pin below. File and sand this down flush to the rest of the top of that threading ring right there.

The last issue will be at the mod itself, the IPV4 and IPV4S are notorious for having issue with the contact pin and the 510 connector in general, if you have another tank/atomizer to test read and fire with the mod, this would rule the mod not entirely out of the picture, if it doesn't fire or read another tank/atomizer the issue is with the mod. However... Kanger Subtanks and many of this latest generation of Kanger tanks have very long 510 threads and base pins, these can force a mod 510 pin down to far it can spring back up properly or needs to be wiggled and pryed back up into normal position.

Troubleshooting a vape over a computer screen is like troubleshooting a computer with someone over the phone, I can guide you to where to look at, but without the devices in hand all I can do is guidance. If you can't fix this on your own, take the tank and mod down to your local vape shop to have them look at it, nothing else I can do for you, sorry, but other than the little nub I've highlighted on the re-attached images, I've repeated where to look several times.

Wow, thanks a lot for the detailed reply, will try looking at all of these.

The problem is that we don't have vape shops in India so trying to fix it somehow. Have ordered a new tank but will take about 1.5 months to reach me so fixing this till then would be awesome.

Also, I forgot to mention that I have tried another atomizer and it works perfectly with the mod...

 

[gt_thegame]

Okay, I've highlighted some areas to look at thoroughly

RBA Head
1) The Coil itself, should be suspended above the air inlet and spaced between the two terminal, only contact the coil should have with the rest of the base is at the two terminals under the trap screws.
2) Terminals, the trap screws should be snug down on the wire to hold it in place, excess wire should be cut flush to the outside of the terminals, if any wire touches the outer barrel, will cause a short, thus can cause a 0.0ohm reading, especially if it is the positive wire, only positve contact should be from the pin/air inlet, positve block with an insulator under it, and the positive trap screw, the rest of the coil "Deck" is negative, the outer barrel seats down on the deck itself and makes un-insulated contact, so can make a direct path.
3) The positive pin/air inlet on the bottom, inspect its lower insulator and the insulator of the positive block terminal above this.

Tank Base
1) The very center contact pin is free floating, held only by friction with the insulator. It should protrude up enough to contact the coil head bottom pinm also it needs to protrude past the bottom connector threads, being brass, it is harder than copper as it contains tin and other elements, but it is still softer than the stainless surrounding it. if you torque things together to tight you could compress it long ways and swell it outward in the same principle of snugging up a rivet.
2) In the boxed lettering, this might be the culprit of the whole thing, that little nub denoted and "Possible Issue". If this protrudes enough it could keep the coil head from seating down fully to make contact with the base pin below. File and sand this down flush to the rest of the top of that threading ring right there.

The last issue will be at the mod itself, the IPV4 and IPV4S are notorious for having issue with the contact pin and the 510 connector in general, if you have another tank/atomizer to test read and fire with the mod, this would rule the mod not entirely out of the picture, if it doesn't fire or read another tank/atomizer the issue is with the mod. However... Kanger Subtanks and many of this latest generation of Kanger tanks have very long 510 threads and base pins, these can force a mod 510 pin down to far it can spring back up properly or needs to be wiggled and pryed back up into normal position.

Troubleshooting a vape over a computer screen is like troubleshooting a computer with someone over the phone, I can guide you to where to look at, but without the devices in hand all I can do is guidance. If you can't fix this on your own, take the tank and mod down to your local vape shop to have them look at it, nothing else I can do for you, sorry, but other than the little nub I've highlighted on the re-attached images, I've repeated where to look several times.

Tried all of this but it still ain't working...

 

[gt_thegame]

So I tried my tank with another coil and it works fine.. So the problem is with the coil itself. Posting some pictures, hope you can help me identify the problem and fix it...

 

[gt_thegame]

Adding another picture...