Think that is my next too...if it takes 41mm attys.Gxl gun metal gray with ant ipwm mitec clicky button
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I mean it will TAKE 41mm atomizers, sure, there would just be about 10mm of hangover.
The GXL has 31mm of top clearance.
The GXL has 31mm of top clearance.
Not for me then.....
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Well the only thing I offer that fits 41mm+ stuff is the N1 and the even larger J.
Not yet @BrewBear ....prolly soon tho...I'm now replacing all chipped mods with pwm mods from Mikhail which are priced very reasonable based on the quality of the products. Hopefully in the next couple months I'll just be using pwm mods. All the dna fsk and yihi boards will be shelved, they are unreliable compared to pwm.
I know you don't like to sell stuff, but let me know please , just in case those mods are taking up too much of your space.
More importantly, please let me know about the pwm mod, I will probably get one soon.
I love the modfather attys so much I've been using them more than squonkers lately......
You mean those HUGE things that come in pint and quart size? LOL! Does this mean you don't want your Nuppins anymore?I love the modfather attys so much I've been using them more than squonkers lately......
I looked at the Modfather Attyes but the Boreas is about as much as I like, even that has been side lined after I got the first Alleria.
I know you enjoy Tottle puffin....if I decide to get rid of my nuppins I'll let you know......You mean those HUGE things that come in pint and quart size? LOL! Does this mean you don't want your Nuppins anymore?
I looked at the Modfather Attyes but the Boreas is about as much as I like, even that has been side lined after I got the first Alleria.
I would really appreciate it. Thank you.I know you enjoy Tottle puffin....if I decide to get rid of my nuppins I'll let you know......
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Inspects your mod is going in the mailbox tomorrow morning, I'm getting ready to install the red volt meter now.
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Voltrove, my kinda atty....!
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I figured you'd want to see what one looked like on top of it, so I threw mine on there during testing / photos.
It does have like 0.2mm of hangover on each side, the 41mm nature opposed to the 40mm one is the cause of that, but the N1 looks damned good with a 41mm Voltrove sitting on it, it's the only ATI enclosure that properly seats it, anything else, it looks ridiculous IMO.
It does have like 0.2mm of hangover on each side, the 41mm nature opposed to the 40mm one is the cause of that, but the N1 looks damned good with a 41mm Voltrove sitting on it, it's the only ATI enclosure that properly seats it, anything else, it looks ridiculous IMO.
Nice....now I have an idea of the next size mods I need....thanks again Mikhail...!
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Don't want anything bigger, just a few more smaller mods.
Just want the mods to fit 30mm tanks.
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The GXL is an amazing enclosure, I got myself one, the rounded edges make for a very ergonomic grip and it's like a mini 1590B. It's perfect, honestly, if the 41mm Voltrove weren't such a good tank, the GXL would be my go-to enclosure. It's so well made.
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I'll post pictures in the next few days of the DNA75C GXL mod I'm making for a customer, god it's gorgeous. Then I'm making an unregulated parallel to series DPDT switch 20700 mod in a laser engraved GXL for another customer shortly after. Then OR sometime during all that, I will be making myself a 3S Ant iPWM LiPo mod in the GXL enclosure I got myself. I will post pictures of all the mods here for reference.
I'm also making a GXL mod for Derrick very soon. So at least four GXL reference mods will be up soon, and my very first public DNA reference to boot.
A sneak peak of the DNA75C parallel 18650 GXL, nothing is glued, wired or mounted in yet, it's all just free-sitting:
I'm also making a GXL mod for Derrick very soon. So at least four GXL reference mods will be up soon, and my very first public DNA reference to boot.
A sneak peak of the DNA75C parallel 18650 GXL, nothing is glued, wired or mounted in yet, it's all just free-sitting:
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Do the 30mm attys fit on the GXL?...with a good size lipo?
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Yep, it has a 31mm of top clearance, 1mm more than even the B does ironically.
It can fit a mid-size 3S LiPo, or a bigger 2S LiPo. Or dual 18650/20700. It can also fit 16mm buttons.
It takes everything the bigger enclosures offer, like room for a 30mm 510 and a huge button, good bit of internal room.. and it puts it in a concise, ergonomic package that anybody can get down with. It's a fucking revolutionary enclosure, if they make a BXL that can fit 40mm stuff I'll drop the N1 forever.
Thats what im talking about a 3rd to the fam
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I'm thinking of going back to my 30mm Modfather for a while just so I can stay with the GXL once I get it made, that damned thing is just too nice.
Can the GXL handle a 2250mah or a 2800mah ? That's the only reason to go that route..... My Bbox handles a 30mm perfectly
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I forgot to ask the exact question, what size batteries fit in the GTL?Can the GXL handle a 2250mah or a 2800mah ? That's the only reason to go that route..... My Bbox handles a 30mm perfectly
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I'd say a 2,250mah MA is about as big as you're gonna fit in there, you could also fit a Turnigy 1,500mah Nanotech 3S. It just depends really, as different battery companies offer similar batteries (same/close MaH/C ratings) that can vary wildly in size. It just depends on the battery chemistry, some companies are better at getting more out of less, so to speak.
I might be able to find a 1,800mahish 3S that can fit in a GXL, but I'd say the Max Amps 2,250mah is about the biggest (size wise) LiPo that would fit properly. But a MA would drive up the price by around $70, as opposed to the $20-30 I pay for most Turnigy batteries.
The GXL has 'floating' magnet contacts, meaning there isn't that long, threaded base that extends down into the enclosure. This frees up a fair amount of internal space as the four edges of the box are no longer beveled. So that would likely help.
I might be able to find a 1,800mahish 3S that can fit in a GXL, but I'd say the Max Amps 2,250mah is about the biggest (size wise) LiPo that would fit properly. But a MA would drive up the price by around $70, as opposed to the $20-30 I pay for most Turnigy batteries.
The GXL has 'floating' magnet contacts, meaning there isn't that long, threaded base that extends down into the enclosure. This frees up a fair amount of internal space as the four edges of the box are no longer beveled. So that would likely help.
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Some .80 ohm Pwm Kanthal coils.. Left .80/pair Right .50/pair and 5mm circumference
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Amended.
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Amended.
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Amended.
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Amended due to agreements with BAM.
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Amended.
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Due to a few recent orders, out of pity, M&PWM lives on. Thank you to those of you on reddit who ordered mods even though you didn't need them just to help me. I know it doesn't show over text but I'm crying just typing this out. Thank you.
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As much as I disdain them, they refunded me and I'm a man of my word so I will be removing all this to avoid legal issues and because, I don't lie to people.
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New board
SMART PWM V3 Mods:
This board was wack ass crazy, you can do everything from wire in analogue volt meters, to CHOOSE between a potentiometer wheel dial OR actuator buttons like the NLPWM. TINY as hell too. This board is 2S-4S input and has WAY more features than the iPWM did, try one today.
SMART PWM V3 Mods:
This board was wack ass crazy, you can do everything from wire in analogue volt meters, to CHOOSE between a potentiometer wheel dial OR actuator buttons like the NLPWM. TINY as hell too. This board is 2S-4S input and has WAY more features than the iPWM did, try one today.
So, this looks like you set the output voltage and the board does the rest. No resetting the pot as battery levels fall?
An analog VM, that would be cool if I could find a proper size one.
Mikhail, stick and stay man. Fuck Al, he's been wobbly for a while.
Go with the better board and create something new and different with it.
As soon as I get past my medical issues (read bills), I'll be in for a GXL and with a V3 board.
I should order the box and see how it feels in my hand. Then, there's the empty wallet thing...
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Update:
Big Al's Mods, well more accurately his wife, and me talked. A lot of things were said, but god bless her (she's his assistant), she is a sweetheart.
She stuck up for her husband and company to a point as any person would, but she was the reason I ultimately got my money back without a long, drawn out battle over Paypal. I made a written promise to not bad mouth the company or go into detail about what happened. I was in no position to say no, I NEEDED that money to save my business. I'm a man of my word no less, so the situation on my end is completely finished.
I hate that controversy and friction has happened twice now, but the only thing I can do is fight for the future of my company, so I will get the orders I have in out and keep pushing for more. This is my dream, and at this point I've bled for this business even though it's young, I refuse to give it up. It will have to be pried from my dead hands to get me to quit.
The Smart PWM V3 board is a better board than the iPWM. I don't say that to bad mouth the iPWM, the ones I got that worked I liked fairly god damned well, but this board.. whew boy. I also now stock NLPWM's, it's not just an option floating in the wind, I can make them to order now. References of NLPWM mods will be up soon.
TL;DR
The situation with me and Big Al's Mods is OVER. I cannot speak for the situation as a whole as shit is blowing up still from what I've heard, but I do not intend to be a part of it or even observe it. It's the past, and I made a promise I intend to keep because I had to. Do not PM me asking about it, don't post about it here, do research yourself if you're curious or ask those who saw it unfold, I'm DONE with it. The keyword is I, the situation as I said isn't over, but I'm no longer a part of it, nor will I be again.
Big Al's Mods, well more accurately his wife, and me talked. A lot of things were said, but god bless her (she's his assistant), she is a sweetheart.
She stuck up for her husband and company to a point as any person would, but she was the reason I ultimately got my money back without a long, drawn out battle over Paypal. I made a written promise to not bad mouth the company or go into detail about what happened. I was in no position to say no, I NEEDED that money to save my business. I'm a man of my word no less, so the situation on my end is completely finished.
I hate that controversy and friction has happened twice now, but the only thing I can do is fight for the future of my company, so I will get the orders I have in out and keep pushing for more. This is my dream, and at this point I've bled for this business even though it's young, I refuse to give it up. It will have to be pried from my dead hands to get me to quit.
The Smart PWM V3 board is a better board than the iPWM. I don't say that to bad mouth the iPWM, the ones I got that worked I liked fairly god damned well, but this board.. whew boy. I also now stock NLPWM's, it's not just an option floating in the wind, I can make them to order now. References of NLPWM mods will be up soon.
TL;DR
The situation with me and Big Al's Mods is OVER. I cannot speak for the situation as a whole as shit is blowing up still from what I've heard, but I do not intend to be a part of it or even observe it. It's the past, and I made a promise I intend to keep because I had to. Do not PM me asking about it, don't post about it here, do research yourself if you're curious or ask those who saw it unfold, I'm DONE with it. The keyword is I, the situation as I said isn't over, but I'm no longer a part of it, nor will I be again.
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Thanks to Voltrove, I now have access to 40mm 510's, so for any potential N1 box customers, I can use 40mm 510's now. I'm damned sure gonna be ordering a few for my personal mods when I can afford it sometime.
Finally got a pair...... .80 Ohms 100% all Kanthal......
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M&PWM has a lot of new stock, so I'm just gonna list it off.
I WILL NO LONGER BE CARRYING iPWM'S OR ANY BIG AL's MODS PRODUCTS. I AM SORRY IF YOU HAD YOUR HEART SET ON ONE OF HIS BOARDS AND I WILL SAY, THE ONES THAT WORKED WORKED WELL, BUT THEM AND I HAVE PARTED WAYS FOR GOOD AND THERE IS NO GOING BACK. I ONLY USE MOD PCB, GUNSTAR AND VOLTROVE PWM REGULATORS NOW.
New Stock:
I no longer use Varitube's for my default 510's, unless otherwise requested I will be using a source Voltrove 510 sized to the box. 22mm for regular G boxes and small enclosures, 24mm's for G+'s, 25mm's for P+'s and A+'s, 30mm for GXL's and B's and 40mm's for N1's and J's. These 510's are BEEFY, insulated to handle over 100A loads and will last you a lifetime. For bottom fed (squonk) 510's, I will be using the Fat Daddy V4 BF, as it has a proper lug I can solder the positive wire to, I dislike the normal BF 510's where you are expected to trap the wire between nuts, that causes a ton of voltage drop, and the V5 has insulator cracking issues. So, unless asked to use otherwise, all non BF mods will be using Voltrove source 510's sized to the box, and all BF mods will be using either the 22mm or 24mm FDV V4 BF 510. I will STILL use other 510's if requested, but I recommend you stick with these as I feel they are the best in class, but it is YOUR mod so I WILL use what you want.
I now have access to black XT60 connectors, also courtesy of Voltrove. So if you want a black XT60 instead of a yellow one, just holler and I'll make sure you get a black one, both male and female (in-mod plug and battery plug).
As much as I love Mitecs, I just can't afford to stock them in bulk anymore. At nearly $10 a pop with no wholesale options, it's pricey. I have switched to momentary switches or ATI clicky switches, both in 12mm and 16mm sizes, for my default switches. They still have amazing throw feels to the click and work very well. I will still use Mitecs, but it now costs extra. I also stock the Otto P9, a very high quality Hex Ohm style horn switch, but it too costs extra.
For my flagships, I offer two PWM boards. If you want a simple, clean, minimal parts used box with all the features easily accessed, I will use the wonderful NLPWM board which I now keep in stock. For the more advanced PWM mods, I will be using the Smart PWM V3, as it has a TON of peripheral part support. It can take analog or digital volt meters, LED strips or diodes, you can use a potentiometer dial OR wired in + and - buttons, you can calibrate both the meter and pot/buttons for accuracy, it also has 'smart' features like the NLPWM and the iPWM. Wonderful board, they both cost about the same, as the NLPWM is pretty much an all-in-one board where-as the SPWM V3 requires extra parts, so in the end the cost adds up to about the same. Both are wonderful boards, you can't go wrong with either. If you don't give a fuck about fancy peripheral addons or smart features, I will be using the Micro PWM V2.1 regulator OR the Gunstar PWM V2.1 regulator. Both perform about the same, though neither are silent boards like the NLPWM, iPWM and SPWM V3 nor do they have smart features. They however will run you less money and won't be as complex to fiddle with if simplicity is your style.
I now will be using either a 10K Pot (For SPWM V3 (non button wire-up) and Micro PWM V2.1) or a 50K pot (Gunstar Board), no more 1K's like the Big Al boards used. Though if you choose an NLPWM or want a SPWM V3 with buttons, there will be no pot.
I've started to move away from the 3D Printed volt meter and pot bezels and onto the CNC bezels which are nicer. I will still use the 3D printed ones in budget, lower cost mods, but all my flagship PWM mods will have CNC bezels anywhere a volt meter or potentiometer is used.
I'm still using ATI Enclosures and the Hammond J, but now I also offer Dripp3D enclosures and FDV Enclosures if it interests you. I also will use 3D Printed PETG enclosures, but honestly, don't buy that shit. It's cheap and flimsy, but I can't stop you as it's again, your mod.
I will still use custom parts if the customer does not like the defaults, but the one thing I can no longer use again, ever are Big Al's boards. Anything else is still fair game if you want it. That will be all.
I WILL NO LONGER BE CARRYING iPWM'S OR ANY BIG AL's MODS PRODUCTS. I AM SORRY IF YOU HAD YOUR HEART SET ON ONE OF HIS BOARDS AND I WILL SAY, THE ONES THAT WORKED WORKED WELL, BUT THEM AND I HAVE PARTED WAYS FOR GOOD AND THERE IS NO GOING BACK. I ONLY USE MOD PCB, GUNSTAR AND VOLTROVE PWM REGULATORS NOW.
New Stock:
I no longer use Varitube's for my default 510's, unless otherwise requested I will be using a source Voltrove 510 sized to the box. 22mm for regular G boxes and small enclosures, 24mm's for G+'s, 25mm's for P+'s and A+'s, 30mm for GXL's and B's and 40mm's for N1's and J's. These 510's are BEEFY, insulated to handle over 100A loads and will last you a lifetime. For bottom fed (squonk) 510's, I will be using the Fat Daddy V4 BF, as it has a proper lug I can solder the positive wire to, I dislike the normal BF 510's where you are expected to trap the wire between nuts, that causes a ton of voltage drop, and the V5 has insulator cracking issues. So, unless asked to use otherwise, all non BF mods will be using Voltrove source 510's sized to the box, and all BF mods will be using either the 22mm or 24mm FDV V4 BF 510. I will STILL use other 510's if requested, but I recommend you stick with these as I feel they are the best in class, but it is YOUR mod so I WILL use what you want.
I now have access to black XT60 connectors, also courtesy of Voltrove. So if you want a black XT60 instead of a yellow one, just holler and I'll make sure you get a black one, both male and female (in-mod plug and battery plug).
As much as I love Mitecs, I just can't afford to stock them in bulk anymore. At nearly $10 a pop with no wholesale options, it's pricey. I have switched to momentary switches or ATI clicky switches, both in 12mm and 16mm sizes, for my default switches. They still have amazing throw feels to the click and work very well. I will still use Mitecs, but it now costs extra. I also stock the Otto P9, a very high quality Hex Ohm style horn switch, but it too costs extra.
For my flagships, I offer two PWM boards. If you want a simple, clean, minimal parts used box with all the features easily accessed, I will use the wonderful NLPWM board which I now keep in stock. For the more advanced PWM mods, I will be using the Smart PWM V3, as it has a TON of peripheral part support. It can take analog or digital volt meters, LED strips or diodes, you can use a potentiometer dial OR wired in + and - buttons, you can calibrate both the meter and pot/buttons for accuracy, it also has 'smart' features like the NLPWM and the iPWM. Wonderful board, they both cost about the same, as the NLPWM is pretty much an all-in-one board where-as the SPWM V3 requires extra parts, so in the end the cost adds up to about the same. Both are wonderful boards, you can't go wrong with either. If you don't give a fuck about fancy peripheral addons or smart features, I will be using the Micro PWM V2.1 regulator OR the Gunstar PWM V2.1 regulator. Both perform about the same, though neither are silent boards like the NLPWM, iPWM and SPWM V3 nor do they have smart features. They however will run you less money and won't be as complex to fiddle with if simplicity is your style.
I now will be using either a 10K Pot (For SPWM V3 (non button wire-up) and Micro PWM V2.1) or a 50K pot (Gunstar Board), no more 1K's like the Big Al boards used. Though if you choose an NLPWM or want a SPWM V3 with buttons, there will be no pot.
I've started to move away from the 3D Printed volt meter and pot bezels and onto the CNC bezels which are nicer. I will still use the 3D printed ones in budget, lower cost mods, but all my flagship PWM mods will have CNC bezels anywhere a volt meter or potentiometer is used.
I'm still using ATI Enclosures and the Hammond J, but now I also offer Dripp3D enclosures and FDV Enclosures if it interests you. I also will use 3D Printed PETG enclosures, but honestly, don't buy that shit. It's cheap and flimsy, but I can't stop you as it's again, your mod.
I will still use custom parts if the customer does not like the defaults, but the one thing I can no longer use again, ever are Big Al's boards. Anything else is still fair game if you want it. That will be all.
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Finally got a pair...... .80 Ohms 100% all Kanthal......
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Framed staples, using several pieces of flat ribbon as the core, parallel twisted wire framing them and thin wire spaced and clapton wrapped around it? Nice.
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So now that I've gotten to use an NLPWM and watch it talk to me (It uses the VM digits to say thinks like Loc (when locking) and UnL (Unlocking) and etc. Buttons over pot EVERY time.This is a great board, great vape. I'll have a N1 SPWM V3 with buttons and a 3-wire sense Volt Meter wired up for testing soon, but I have high hopes as it's from the same creator as the NLPWM.
The NLPWM is an amazing board and is extremely simple to use, I know that much.
ANNOUNCEMENT:
I now have accessed to enclosures pre-cut and drilled by Chip Powers. These are milled CNC enclosures, even better than ATI's. Every hole is PERFECTLY centered AND sized. Due to this, I can also now offer swirl paint options for mods, $25 extra. This will drive the price of all of my flagship mods up about $10-$15, but these enclosures take out something I hate and have to do by hand (drilling / dremeling / filing) and replaces it with a professional using high quality machines my human hands cannot compare to.
SO.. M&PWM is gonna be cranking out some squeaky clean mods from here on out. This is the golden age to place an order.
Oh yeah.. these new enclosures, have recessed 510's, of any size 510 you pick 22mm, 24mm, 25mm, 30mm and 40mm. So ANY 510 size can still be used and it will be 100% flush with the enclosure. So now my mods have flush 510's.
The NLPWM is an amazing board and is extremely simple to use, I know that much.
ANNOUNCEMENT:
I now have accessed to enclosures pre-cut and drilled by Chip Powers. These are milled CNC enclosures, even better than ATI's. Every hole is PERFECTLY centered AND sized. Due to this, I can also now offer swirl paint options for mods, $25 extra. This will drive the price of all of my flagship mods up about $10-$15, but these enclosures take out something I hate and have to do by hand (drilling / dremeling / filing) and replaces it with a professional using high quality machines my human hands cannot compare to.
SO.. M&PWM is gonna be cranking out some squeaky clean mods from here on out. This is the golden age to place an order.
Oh yeah.. these new enclosures, have recessed 510's, of any size 510 you pick 22mm, 24mm, 25mm, 30mm and 40mm. So ANY 510 size can still be used and it will be 100% flush with the enclosure. So now my mods have flush 510's.
GXL boxes in the new line?