Next Generation MTL tanks Part 2

[CDroverNL]

The Pico dual 18650? I have one one the way, today or tomorrow along with the Merlin mini.

I'll check that one out

Edit: I did actually watch a review on that one already. How's it feel in the pocket? I haven't had one shaped like that yet and feel like it wouldn't be very pocket friendly. I like the style of the Finder/therion but don't want/need to pay over $100 for a DNA work mod. I've been very leaning toward the slice, but with vaporcube sliding downhill on their customer service lately, I'm iffy on ordering from them again. Vaping with Vic mentioned in one of his videos of a new mpv4 comming out with a 4000+mah lipo. I may hold off and hope my balrog holds up till then. I feel running that battery at around 70 or 80W while at work would definitely get me through the night and then some.

 

[BrewBear]

In all honesty, it is not very pocket friendly, it is more like a midget RX200 with 2 batteries. I bought it from VaporDNA along with a Merlin mini. The vapor flask from Wismec can be pretty inexpensive, I have 2 of them, one from Avail (it was cheap and it looks it) and one from Vapor Beast (better finish, just as cheap). I still like the G2 best for durability, usability but not very pocket friendly. I have several DNA mods but I'm not overwhelmed by the performance. I probably is just me, but I'd much rather have a FSK chipped mod.

 

[BrewBear]

I have a Therion DNA200, that is not a very pocket friendly mod either. Have looked at the Smoant mods?

 

[CDroverNL]

Sir Richard pointed me toward them. I have looked a little but not a lot

 

[Lactone]

Tried and true, my go to MTL is and always will be Aspire's Nautilus Mini. This thing is an oldie but a goodie. I have tried countless other MTL setups, and this one just has the best airflow, paired with bomb dot com flavor, and just a perfect draw, in each of the 4 airflows, I just love it. Smooth, smooth, SMOOTH airflow. NO turbulence. Just use it.

 

[DWDawg]

So I finally found a temperature control system I like and it has a helluva small tank too which could in theory be a good little MTL tank.

http://www.myvaporstore.com/Innokin-Kroma-Starter-Kit-p/ink-kro10.htm

Got myself one of these for xmas. Love it, nice and small, battery lasts me 3/4 day, tank is small, gotta fill up a few times a day. I use the slipstream tank as mtl but its pretty airy. Putt my nautilus x on it using the 510 adapter extension, works great, not filling the tank as often and battery lasts longer, due to the lower watts I run the x at. Nice mod and hopefully built as good as the old indestructible MPVs

 

[snake94115]

Got myself one of these for xmas. Love it, nice and small, battery lasts me 3/4 day, tank is small, gotta fill up a few times a day. I use the slipstream tank as mtl but its pretty airy. Putt my nautilus x on it using the 510 adapter extension, works great, not filling the tank as often and battery lasts longer, due to the lower watts I run the x at. Nice mod and hopefully built as good as the old indestructible MPVs

My wife wants 1 too after trying mine out.

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[BrewBear]

I spent the last couple of days trying to like the Merlin mini. For my way of MTL vaping....well,...it is fair but not stellar. The air flow reducer inserts will do the job, but I feel something is lacking. The single coil deck is great to work on and so is the dual coil deck. I gave up on the single coil and run it as a DL tank with the dual coil deck.

 

[BrewBear]

Heads up on this one. I don't have one....yet, but if you're interested check it out. Be aware you have to purchase $35 worth of other stuff in order to get the discount. KANGER TOGO MINI ALL IN ONE STARTER KIT - $9.99 VAPORDNA RIGHT TO VAPE CAMPAIGN

 

[BrewBear]

I've been playing with this little sucker for the last couple of days https://www.fasttech.com/p/6149700
Very good flavor but it is a small deck, the whole top part is held by one o-ring so not something to put in your pants pocket.

 

[BrewBear]

I seem to remember some mention of someone possibly getting an eXpromizer 1.2. Any word on that???

 

[Jason Commerford]

Has anyone tried the Vaporesso Guardian tank yet? I've got one and have been vaping the1.4 ohm CCELL-GD coils. One came with the tank and I bought a five pack as well. I am now down to two coils and have not vaped more than 6 tanks. No matter how gently and slowly I break these coils in they burn out in no time. Just interested to see if anyone else is having this problem?

 

[hachiroku]

I've noticed a lot of stuff being released recently, labeled as MTL. The thing that's confusing me is this rather new tendency towards somewhat airy draws, something which I'm honestly not a fan of (for example see stock KF5, I didn't quite enjoy it until I'd gotten the screw kit for the AF channel). Does anyone have any info on these, such as Hussar, Skyline etc.? Feel free to mention other things I potentially might not have discovered yet. I'm starting to consider getting something else, not that I dislike the KF5, just that there are some annoyances I can't seem to figure out. The Skyline looks really interesting, but it's a little pricey and I don't know much about it.

 

[BrewBear]

The reason you see this flood of MTL-ish tanks is because the manufacturers are trying to lure us into buying their wares. KF5 is a good example of a great MTL tank trying to satisfy both DL and MTL crowds, they had to come-up with the inserts in order to become MTL. Merlin and its mini version are another example. I have a Digiflavor Siren traveling around the globe and aiming to find its way to me, hopefully before Easter......Another one is the Cthulhu MTL, not to be confused with the Cthulhu v2 (different animal). The one I'm really really having fun with is the Origen Tiny https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10028104/6149700-origen-little-16-bf-styled-rta-rebuildable-tank a really nice MTL tank. Let's not forget the Kayfun mini v3, one of my favorites on top of the Skillet.

 

[hachiroku]

I keep thinking about the mini v3 but I'm not sure I'll be able to build any proper coil on it. The deck seems much smaller on the v3m. Like even on the KF5, I'm having a bad time going over 26 awg wire, I've tried 28ga Kanthal A1 and 32ga SS. On the ss one that I'd built I already started freaking out because my resistance was jumping from 1.4 to 2 constantly. I get this even on the 28ga Kanthal, resistance slightly jumps by a decimal margin (like from 1.2 to 1.5, in any case, lesser than on SS wire). I've been using the KF5 for a while but for some reason, it seems that I have to change the wick like daily, sometimes even twice a day. This has started occurring ever since I'd added the airflow screws, coil span and wick seemed fine even for a whole week when I was building under 1 ohm. This might actually be a bit offtopic, sorry! I will edit it out if it's inappropriate.

Oh, about the Siren, I thought it's pretty good, just that it resembles the stock KF5 afc, which was a bit too airy for me; as for the Cthulhu, I wish they'd made a slightly smaller one honestly (sadly my mod's diameter is 22mm ). That's why I thought the Skyline might be a great alternative, deck also seems to mount coils easily, but it's at about 200 eur with the shipping so tough luck.

It might sound silly but I'm actually afraid of getting tanks from FT because I have no experience with important parts like o-rings, screws, insulators etc. It might be overboard but after reading about a few cases about PEEK insulators melting I just thought I'd rather avoid that. I'm generally clueless about this stuff, I just followed the KISS rule (keep it simple, stupid) and read guides for everything so far.

 

[Mike H.]

Has anyone tried the kayfun GT3?...I have the clone coming but I hear it can be a good mtl tank although ill use it more as a restricted DL tank...I have the original Taifun GT and it was a superb MTL tank its just wicking was a bitch to get right

 

[Nailz]

Has anyone tried the kayfun GT3?...I have the clone coming but I hear it can be a good mtl tank although ill use it more as a restricted DL tank...I have the original Taifun GT and it was a superb MTL tank its just wicking was a bitch to get right

Yes i got one a few weeks ago, not a bad tank, and a lot easier to wick than past models, and a lot more airflow too.

 

[Mike H.]

Yes i got one a few weeks ago, not a bad tank, and a lot easier to wick than past models, and a lot more airflow too.

Awesome..Thats what I was hoping to hear...My old GT was just a pain in the ass to wick...Either too much wick and the top cap closed off the wicking or too little and it flooded...I pulled it out recently and tried again but got same results..Just wouldn't wick properly..I thought about getting the adjustable chimney cap assembly from the GT2 from fasttech but the GT3 just looked so much better in general...Should have mine soon from gearbest...Thanks for the reply

 

[BrewBear]

My general rule has been to get a clone from FT, usually SXK, Tobeco,SKMJ (not sure of this name) or ShenRay. They all make good clones. If I'm really happy with the clone, them I'll buy the authentic even though in this changing field the clones will do (most times) until the next "BEST AND GREATEST" MTL tank hits the market. Isn't the Skyline a DL tank? They say Direct Lung Hit, about 180 degrees from MTL.
Think of it this way: you spend a lot less at FT on tanks you'd like to try rather than buying authentics and finding out they're not at all what you want/like. We are here to help! All you need do is ask your questions, odds are very good someone else has the answer.

 

[hachiroku]

@BrewBear Did you have any bad experience with a certain part? Should I be looking for those brands for good parts like the PEEK/metal (heard about rust on some as well)? Definitely a good point, maybe I'll try a Doggystyle clone and see if that ticks most of the boxes.
Maybe I'm doing something wrong with the KF5 but I can never find any darn old school build guide for it on youtube, most of the reviewers use clapton wire or lower builds with thicker kanthal, which sounds a bit demanding for a single battery apv.

The Skyline apparently has 2 decks (for MTL you need to swap the whole piece), the second one having much tighter drills for the AFC.
Also, thanks for the info!

 

[BrewBear]

I have not had problems with FT stuff, usually I read the reviews and discussions, especially if there are multiple offerings i.e. 2 or more variations of the same thing. Last time I looked, there were several Kayfun mini v3s from different manufacturers. Reading reviews gives you an idea of the quality, the discussions often times will point you to another tank of better/worse quality since price alone is not indicative of the quality.

 

[CDroverNL]

I keep thinking about the mini v3 but I'm not sure I'll be able to build any proper coil on it. The deck seems much smaller on the v3m. Like even on the KF5, I'm having a bad time going over 26 awg wire, I've tried 28ga Kanthal A1 and 32ga SS. On the ss one that I'd built I already started freaking out because my resistance was jumping from 1.4 to 2 constantly. I get this even on the 28ga Kanthal, resistance slightly jumps by a decimal margin (like from 1.2 to 1.5, in any case, lesser than on SS wire). I've been using the KF5 for a while but for some reason, it seems that I have to change the wick like daily, sometimes even twice a day. This has started occurring ever since I'd added the airflow screws, coil span and wick seemed fine even for a whole week when I was building under 1 ohm. This might actually be a bit offtopic, sorry! I will edit it out if it's inappropriate.

Oh, about the Siren, I thought it's pretty good, just that it resembles the stock KF5 afc, which was a bit too airy for me; as for the Cthulhu, I wish they'd made a slightly smaller one honestly (sadly my mod's diameter is 22mm ). That's why I thought the Skyline might be a great alternative, deck also seems to mount coils easily, but it's at about 200 eur with the shipping so tough luck.

It might sound silly but I'm actually afraid of getting tanks from FT because I have no experience with important parts like o-rings, screws, insulators etc. It might be overboard but after reading about a few cases about PEEK insulators melting I just thought I'd rather avoid that. I'm generally clueless about this stuff, I just followed the KISS rule (keep it simple, stupid) and read guides for everything so far.

I wouldn't worry about melting insulators with above ohm builds.
With the ohm readings jumping around on you, have you tried completely stripping the tank apart, cleaning it and while assembling, making sure that everything is nive and snug? It sounds to me like you have a loose connection somewhere. I'd start with the 510 pin and work your way up tightening everything up as you go. If you have an authentic then it should work flawlessly. Just take the time to go through it to clean and tighten everything. When building your coils make sure that you trim your leads as close to the deck as you can and that no part of your coil is touching the deck. Even the smallest amount of your coil touching the deck will throw off the reading as will having one loose part somewhere.

 

[BrewBear]

Thank you for taking that part of the question @CDroverNL , frankly, I'm so tired I couldn't tell you my own name with my driver's license in my hand. Your wife will like the Origen Tiny, you have several choices for the airflow, but honestly my favorite MTL is still the Kayfun mini v3 in all its iterations closely followed by the Origen.

 

[hachiroku]

@CDroverNL It's an authentic I got from their website. I've cleaned it, I usually clean the tank weekly, with the exception of the bottom part with the pin (not sure here whether some water stuck in there could cause rust to the pin so I avoided it), the 510 screw was tight, I usually don't overtighten the coil screws when I'm using thinner wire but the coil is fixed in place. Every time I've used 316ss wire the resistance jumped by a significant margin (32ga iirc). When I use 26awg kanthal it rarely does that (even then it's around 0,1 at most which I thought is normal due to the metals warming up), thinner wire seems to be a hit or miss in my case. Right now I have a 1,32 ohm coil on it, 28awg a1 @ 2.5mm, it fluctuates from 1,3 to 1,4 sometimes. Could it be a problem with the chip reading?

Also, I've been thinking of switching over to ss316 wire ever since I got the mtl screws, if you would have any suggestion on which one to get for a mtl setup I would greatly appreciate it!

Edit: forgot to mention, I usually cut the leads around the screws as much as I can after tightening them.

 

[CDroverNL]

@CDroverNL It's an authentic I got from their website. I've cleaned it, I usually clean the tank weekly, with the exception of the bottom part with the pin (not sure here whether some water stuck in there could cause rust to the pin so I avoided it), the 510 screw was tight, I usually don't overtighten the coil screws when I'm using thinner wire but the coil is fixed in place. Every time I've used 316ss wire the resistance jumped by a significant margin (32ga iirc). When I use 26awg kanthal it rarely does that (even then it's around 0,1 at most which I thought is normal due to the metals warming up), thinner wire seems to be a hit or miss in my case. Right now I have a 1,32 ohm coil on it, 28awg a1 @ 2.5mm, it fluctuates from 1,3 to 1,4 sometimes. Could it be a problem with the chip reading?

Also, I've been thinking of switching over to ss316 wire ever since I got the mtl screws, if you would have any suggestion on which one to get for a mtl setup I would greatly appreciate it!

Edit: forgot to mention, I usually cut the leads around the screws as much as I can after tightening them.

I wouldn't worry about anything rusting because it's authentic. I'd completely disassemble the tank, bottom and all and run it through your cleaning process. This will also give you the chance to check all of your orings as well. The littlest things can cause the biggest problem. If your real worried about rusting, after you wash it let all thw excess water run out of it onto a towel or wash cloth for about a half hour or so then blow dry it with a hairdryer on med to low heat. The amount of fluxuation could be caused by the increase in temp, but that would only be with stainless. Kanthal usually doesn't fluxuate. What mod are you using? Does it show resistance in 1.XX or 1.X.
If it only shows in 1.X then your coil could be let's say, 1.24. That would show as 1.2 if after you fire it it jumps to 1.3, that may have in actual fact only jumped to 1.25 or 1.26. The mod would automatically round it to 1.3 then on the display.

 

[CDroverNL]

Thank you for taking that part of the question @CDroverNL , frankly, I'm so tired I couldn't tell you my own name with my driver's license in my hand. Your wife will like the Origen Tiny, you have several choices for the airflow, but honestly my favorite MTL is still the Kayfun mini v3 in all its iterations closely followed by the Origen.

No sweat!
I can't get her into rtas because I know she won't want to even try to rebuild and if I go away to work she'll have to go back to the nautilus or the skillet and she dont like changing things...lol
She likes the skillet tank but it's always leaking on her. I put it back together with the 0.5 ohm coil this time and I'm hoping that will fix it for her.
I'm finally going to mix up a batch of that raspberry lemonade flavor that you sent me way back when! I'm hoping tomorrow. I've mixed a couple bottles of strawberry cheesecake and strawberry lemonade but I'm gonna try the raspberry next. I've got a pretty good handle on my strawberry lemonade but I think I can change that raspberry with very similar results.

 

[hachiroku]

@CDroverNL It reads 1,3 and goes up to 1,4 on the display after I pulse it, there is also a tab in the menu which shows the resistance reading and the temp (temp isn't shown since it's on heat protection mode) -there is another decimal in the R value, it goes from 1,32 up to 1,38. Mod is a Dicodes V3, though I can't tell you anything about the chip inside (no idea if it's accurate or not). Thanks a lot for helping me out !

 

[BrewBear]

One of the reasons you see the big difference in resistance is because you're not in TC mode? I don't have a Dicodes mod ,they use a proprietary chip as far as I know and are reputed as very good.
SS wire can be used in either power mode or TC. The chip reads the coil temp/resistance continuously (or close enough to that)and since resistance changes with temp, you see that big change. Once the coil cools down, you should be at or very close to original resistance

 

[CDroverNL]

Yes, what he said! lol
That's what I meant when I said SS will fluxuate a lot...lol.

 

[f1r3b1rd]

Has anyone tried th Cthulu mtl?
If so can you compare it to the kayfun mini v3

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[Nailz]

Has anyone tried th Cthulu mtl?
If so can you compare it to the kayfun mini v3

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I think the KFV3 is better IMO, I gave up on the Cthulu after only 10 days, no matter how I wicked it, I could not stop it from leaking, followed suggestions of filling all the way up and inverting when closing top, but nothing worked, now sits in the backup draw.

Moving juice control is a PITA, and to alter the airflow, you have to loosen the tank, once you tighten down the juice control, you can't move the airflow ring.

But the build deck is better on the Cthulu though, bigger and easier to work on, oh and filling is easier, but that is all I got that is better.

 

[f1r3b1rd]

I think the KFV3 is better IMO, I gave up on the Cthulu after only 10 days, no matter how I wicked it, I could not stop it from leaking, followed suggestions of filling all the way up and inverting when closing top, but nothing worked, now sits in the backup draw.

Moving juice control is a PITA, and to alter the airflow, you have to loosen the tank, once you tighten down the juice control, you can't move the airflow ring.

But the build deck is better on the Cthulu though, bigger and easier to work on, oh and filling is easier, but that is all I got that is better.

Sounds like similar results to what I got out of the v2- damn that thing was bad.

Thank you, I'll stick with the kfl, kfm3 and aqua2

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[hachiroku]

@BrewBear I haven't used TC mode, I usually use power mode with overheating protection, I mostly build kanthal coils. Is it normal for a SS coil to have a fluctuating resistance on power mode ?

 

[Bigbob2322]

I think the KFV3 is better IMO, I gave up on the Cthulu after only 10 days, no matter how I wicked it, I could not stop it from leaking, followed suggestions of filling all the way up and inverting when closing top, but nothing worked, now sits in the backup draw.

Moving juice control is a PITA, and to alter the airflow, you have to loosen the tank, once you tighten down the juice control, you can't move the airflow ring.

But the build deck is better on the Cthulu though, bigger and easier to work on, oh and filling is easier, but that is all I got that is better.

That sucks I had high hopes for this tank.

 

[BrewBear]

Is it normal for a SS coil to have a fluctuating resistance on power mode ?

Yes it is. The chip, especially in power mode with overheat protection measures the resistance and temp. in order to increase/decrease power to the coil. SS wire changes resistance quite a bit as it heats up and you will see the fluctuations. In some mods you are able to lock the resistance, best done when the coil is cold (morning, before first puff???). Some manufacturers provide that function but advise customers not to use it. It is a little foggy to me why they provide the function and tell you not to use it but I prefer SS coils and use them primarily in TC mode, seldom in power mode. The reason you didn't see this fluctuation with Kanthal coils is because the change in resistance as it heats up is minimal when compared to the other types of materials used for coils. This is one of the reasons why it was practically impossible to TC kanthal, that is until the FSK chip used by Hohm Teck got it's upgrade a year or so ago. This is a proprietary chip and still the only one on the market today capable of TC-ing kanthal. Does it do it? Most definitely, I own several of their mods and they are without a doubt the best ones if you are a TC user. Yes, the DNA chips give you more control, very true, I own several DNA mods from DNA 40 on up but for ease of use, changes on the fly, I carry the Hohm Tech mods.

 

[hachiroku]

Nice and simple explanation! Interesting, never heard of that brand or chip. Lots of people recommended DNA as they seem to be reliable, I just went for the simple 1 button setup because it was straightforward and didn't require setting up a software on the pc with added temp profiles and, well, the warranty too (my old 1x18650 mod deteriorated pretty bad in 6-7 months). Maybe I should get some thicker SS and have another go at it, out of those few that I had built it felt like the flavor was more consistent, the only thing I'd noticed was that it's harder to build a symmetrical coil due to the wire being pretty springy.

Btw, is that origen tank you linked earlier also available with a standard mouthpiece ? The chuff cap or whatever it's called seems a bit wide.

 

[Nailz]

That sucks I had high hopes for this tank.

Me too, and maybe others had better luck, but I tried different wicks and ideas and none worked for me.

 

[BrewBear]

The chuff cap or whatever it's called seems a bit wide

LOL. Actually it is deceiving at first look, the drip tip is not much larger than any other regular drip tip, the tank is tiny, 16mm diameter, single coil. FT has them for $10 or so. You can put any other standard drip tip on it. You might consider getting some 28g and 30g SS 316L wire, that's about all I'm using unless I'm making Clapton coils. I'm not saying that's the ONE, just what I'm using.

I believe the codes are still good. This is most definitely the anti-ergonomic box mod but it takes a lot of punishment and still works. Some people had problems, mainly QC related, but overall, it is god. There is a thread around here dealing with everything G2.

 

[BrewBear]

Some new (to me at least) offerings from FT, they use the Aspire Nautilus/Triton mini coils.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/5888201 it is actually a Nautilus mini
https://www.fasttech.com/products/5277101 based on the Kabuki I think
I have both in the cart, I might just order them.

 

[Nailz]

Some new (to me at least) offerings from FT, they use the Aspire Nautilus/Triton mini coils.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/5888201 it is actually a Nautilus mini
https://www.fasttech.com/products/5277101 based on the Kabuki I think
I have both in the cart, I might just order them.

Chinese New Year just about to start, probably be waiting 2 months to get them, I won't order anything from chinese vendors till March now.

 

[BrewBear]

Chinese New Year just about to start, probably be waiting 2 months to get them, I won't order anything from chinese vendors till March now.

I hear you @Nailz, but if I get a good enough discount, I'll buy them and be pleasantly surprised when they arrive cause I will have forgotten about the order! Besides, I have plenty of new toys to play with. MTL squonking is really nice!

 

[hachiroku]

That kabuki lookalike looks good, even the afc seems flush from afar, can't help but wonder whether it has a close draw. Kinda wish they'd made an rba for it. Definitely looking forward to reading a review regardless.

 

[BrewBear]

Kinda wish they'd made an rba for it

There is one, if you can find it but I must warn you, it is a PITA to built. I believe they have the same type of AFC which means you can adjust it to a very tight draw.

 

[BrewBear]

Here you go : ORIGINAL VVTF NAUTILUS MINI & NAUTILUS RBA DECK V2A REBUILDABLE COILS HEADS and the seller is tntu
I wanted to post the ebay link but it didn't work, sorry!

 

[hachiroku]

Yeah I remember I've read something about the whole diameter of the outer cylinder being way too small to build on it, but I've only seen the modded rba for nautilus and it already looked pretty tough to rebuild.

 

[BrewBear]

I will dig them out, maybe in the weekend, I'll try to post pics of it since I have both the v1 and v2.

 

[f1r3b1rd]

Some new (to me at least) offerings from FT, they use the Aspire Nautilus/Triton mini coils.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/5888201 it is actually a Nautilus mini
https://www.fasttech.com/products/5277101 based on the Kabuki I think
I have both in the cart, I might just order them.

That Vika is based on the bukkake, I would love to see one with a p3 connection

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[snake94115]

Some new (to me at least) offerings from FT, they use the Aspire Nautilus/Triton mini coils.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/5888201 it is actually a Nautilus mini
https://www.fasttech.com/products/5277101 based on the Kabuki I think
I have both in the cart, I might just order them.

Hey thanks I might grab that Vika Fantasy (Clone-Buki).

 

[snake94115]

That Vika is based on the bukkake, I would love to see one with a p3 connection

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I doubt that will happen.And if it did you could only use it on a provari.
I think we all know how I feel about those...Moving on.

 

[f1r3b1rd]

I doubt that will happen.And if it did you could only use it on a provari.
I think we all know how I feel about those...Moving on.

Hahaha!!!! That's what I would want it for.
I have a kf4 and a p3 base and wouldn't mind being able to use the p3 connection on more than one atty.

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