T
Taver13
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after 4 i let it dry for a day or two, then wet sand it with 600 grit sandpaper, then do the last two coats, followed two days later by a polish with marine fibreglass cleaner/wax
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Official Patina Thread - DIY, Guides and Showcase
- Thread starter Crocky
- Start date
Tornadoalleydeb
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Wow 
No wonder yours looks so nice. Going through the thread everyone's looks pretty sweet. I have only played around with this stuff for a bit but I can see it becoming quite habit forming.
No wonder yours looks so nice. Going through the thread everyone's looks pretty sweet. I have only played around with this stuff for a bit but I can see it becoming quite habit forming.
T
Taver13
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i definatly isWow
so ive got a copper Prime mod in a fume chamber now. been about 36 hours and its covered in salt.
whats the best way to remove the salt? i wanna see what it looks like, but do not want to disturb any of the blues/greens. am i supposed to rinse it all with water when im happy with the color?
whats the best way to remove the salt? i wanna see what it looks like, but do not want to disturb any of the blues/greens. am i supposed to rinse it all with water when im happy with the color?
So, I have a brass Changeling mod. It came with two brass sleeves. I figured it would be a good idea to experiment with no logo sleeve. Does any one have any tips for bringing out more greens than blues in brass patina?
When I patina'd my M16 Clone, I used ammonia and iodized salt. I would open the container, "rinse off" the pieces every hour with ammonia, rotate them, and reapply a very generous amount of iodized salt. I did this for 9 hours, then let it sit for another 12 hours. So 21 hours total being sealed in the container in the long run. Here was my result.
That being said, I feel like if you left it in the container for a shorter amount of time, say 15 hours instead of 21, you would have more greens than blues. That's just based on my opinion from this one experience with brass however.
any help here?
Just rinse it off, if you don't think it's patina'd enough you can just start the process over again. There's no other way to tell as far as i know
thank you!
The beautiful thing about patinas is, if you don't like it, take 5 minutes and 500 grit sandpaper and start over.
I would rinse it lightly with dish soap and carefully clear coat it. It would probably look pretty cool
No prob!! Even after clear coating it, my few experiments have worn off after about a month of heavy use. I thought two or three coats would be enough. Probably wanna go with a more heavy duty clear, like something from the auto parts store perhaps
im glad you bring this up! ive been searching for a sealer, but soooo many options. permalac, permaclear, waxes, etc...
then i started thinking about durability as well. that led me to looking into auto clear coats. i am a finish nut and have opti-coated my car. it is a very durable additional clear coat you apply on top of the factory clear coat. stuff is amazing. never wax your car again. you can however apply another wax or detailer on top of opti-coat for an even deeper gloss. off topic... sorry
but then i started thinking about wheel coatings. they are pretty durable i would imagine. having to withstand salt in the winters in some areas. should be pretty durable against oils from your hands or even flaking/chipping. or maybe there is an resin or epoxy coating that will withstand heavy use...?
so my mod has a very nice patina and im ready to seal it. im thinking a matte finish or possibly a satin... no gloss. suggestions?
It'd cost money, but clear powdercoat would probably be the closest thing to permanent as you could get. Or, a restoration company called Eastwood sells a paint called POR15. They make it in a clear. It's pretty close to permanent also. My dad used to restore cars as a hobby, last car he did was 20 years ago, there's still spots of POR15 on the garage floor from drips of painting underbodies. Once it's cured, nothing short of a nuclear explosion will remove it.
yes! i forgot all about POR15. very good stuff indeed.
*EDIT**
so i reached out to a few companies to who specialize in durable clear coats. anyway, im still waiting on a couple of replies, but so far things look promising. i really wanted to have this mod in usable shape by saturday. so today i went out and got some of dupli-colors matte clear coat for wheels. i dont think dupli-color is known for durability, but even if it only last a month im good with it. by that time i hope to have a more permanent sealant.
so yeah im not sure how long this finish will last to be honest, but after 5 very light coatings... this mod looks great! ive got a SS version as well and plan on swapping parts to class them both up. pics to come.
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If you would like a very bad finish that will last you should use supper glue use the medium and put 12 coats on it use the excelarator after each coat look on YouTube for the video we use it all the time to finish wood turning
Hey guys I just started vaping a while back and decided to patinate my mod. Got a second Manhattan off a friend for cheap and figured meh why not. I did some research and set off on my task... then failed miserably. I had heard that some people went as long as 48 hours before drying do I went 35. I know probably way to long in that regard. It was nothing but black nasty with a few speckles of blue. So i removed the patina with a vinegar water concoction. Now im making another attempt and want to get one thing clear. Do I salt it every two hours along with ammonia or do I only salt it once and then run with that?
I decided to cut back on everything for the second run Salt, ammonia, and time. twelve hours later and im very happy with how it turned out, honestly I think im missing something that might have made it work the way I wanted the second time around. So to make sure ive decided to give my next mod a salt and vinegar bath before applying its patena.
I decided to cut back on everything for the second run Salt, ammonia, and time. twelve hours later and im very happy with how it turned out, honestly I think im missing something that might have made it work the way I wanted the second time around. So to make sure ive decided to give my next mod a salt and vinegar bath before applying its patena.
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DickyT
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I did my first this past weekend. It spent 16 hours total in the chamber. I misted the mod with ammonia in a squirt bottle, then lightly sprinkled salt on. For a first attempt at a patina I am very happy with the result.
Yeah the first run was a total failure, but after a bath in salt and vinegar I made a second attempt with much better results. I just cut everything back, Especially time. I only went twelve hours the second time and I'm quite pleased with the results. First run
And the second with Lacquer and all.
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Okay guys heres one, Ive got a second Manhattan I intend to patenate but im want to use some tape to put a spiral design on the tube. Only thing im curious about is weather or not i should apply Vaseline to the tape or just let the tape chill there by itself.
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If using black electric tape, just tape it up.
Thanks, Thats pretty much what it is, Vinyl design tape.
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That will work just fine. just make sure to clean the area with alcohol first, dry thoroughly, then apply your mask so it has a clean surface to adhere to.
right on thanks for the tip my other patena developed a mysterious chip when i left the lounge for an hour last night so ill deffinitely be doing another soon, once my lacker dries on the old on.lol
Man, those forced patinas are sick! I was wondering if it would work on a black coated metal (i.e. the new Asmodus Minikin doors)
I think the color is gorgeous. Looks like its made of petrified wood or some exotic wood. JOB WELL DONE.
Alcohol INK? This intrigues me. Does it come in different colors?
This thread has me itching to try something on my MCR silica bronze tube. Im dying to do something dark, greyish, but not solid black.
Im gonna google alcohol ink right now.
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So as some of you know, I've been dabbling in applying various types of patinas (patinae?) to my mods lately. I've only done 3 so far, but I'm fairly happy with the results. Here are pics of the three I've done so far:
Copper SIMPL clone, using ammonia and sea salt
Brass 2SIX authentic, using white vinegar and sea salt
Copper Rig clone using egg
Copper SIMPL clone, using ammonia and sea salt
Brass 2SIX authentic, using white vinegar and sea salt
Copper Rig clone using egg
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CrazyChef v2.0
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Trying a couple more tonight using ammonia and Himalayan pink salt. If they come out almost identical, I think I leave the salt one one and remove it from the other before clear-coating and sanding/polishing.
Copper SΩI SZX clone sleeve, and a copper Noisy Cricket upgrade tube.
Here's the start at around 6:30
Copper SΩI SZX clone sleeve, and a copper Noisy Cricket upgrade tube.
Here's the start at around 6:30
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CrazyChef v2.0
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Starting to react after 20 minutes
Back when I used mechs mostly this was enjoyable...creating the various patinas and then the finishing, coat after coat. Nice work you're doing there! One trick I learned was to stick a rubber stopper in each end of the tube. Keeps the stuff out of the threads and gives you something to grab when rotating the tube.
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Good idea! Right now, I'm just putting Vaseline on the threads.
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Thanks!
Ahhh... Saturday night.
I didn't do that on the one I did. I had to wait on the whole process to be done then had to go back and clean the threads. It was a pain. Ill definitely use vasoline the next round. Not sure if you've seen the fire and ice video on YouTube but it's pretty sweet when he gets done.
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Okay, so they've been sitting overnight. Gonna let 'em dry, then clear coat them. One of them I'll leave the salt on and one I'll rub it off (along with the blue most likely). I'm thinking rub off the Noisy Cricket tube, and leaving the salt on the SZX clone sleeve
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Yeah, I've seen it. It's very interesting, but with my artistic abilities (or lack thereof) the fire portion will look more likely resemble an amorphous blob.
I feel the same way. I'm probably going to try it today when I get off work. Have to get another spray bottle.ammonia and salt really do a number of the spray nozzle.
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Thanks!
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I decided to pull the salt from the NC tube. Turns out it was pretty uneven on the 2 sides, so I'm gonna re-patina it with vinegar and table salt.
I think the SZX clone came out nice though.
I think the SZX clone came out nice though.
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I think I just lost my mind. I put my authentic copper Purge B2B V2 in the fumer to get patinaed.
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Kinda hard to tell from the pic, but I put Vaseline over the Purge logo. Hopefully, this will keep it clear of the patina.
It should. As long as it stays on. Kept my threads clean.Kinda hard to tell from the pic, but I put Vaseline over the Purge logo. Hopefully, this will keep it clear of the patina.
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Yup, that's why I figured it should work on the logo. Just got my first coffee of the day, so I'll go check on it in a few minutes with an updated pic.
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Gonna need to dry out before I get rid of the excess salt. Looks like the logo should be fine. Just gotta figure out how to get all the Vaseline off of it before I clear-coat it.
